This thread will document the building of our Optimist Club Racer.
UPDATE: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwVlLMeB ... re=feedbul
I will insert some of the pictures from the Club Racer gallery into this thread, but there are many more pictures here..
http://gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=1096
We start with a basket mold which is cut on our CNC machine and is self-aligning. This mold also has inside wolds which force side and bottom panels perfectly into shape. The Club Racer can be built by anyone, and does not require the basket mold. The purpose of the basket mold is to allow sailing clubs or schools to build many boats at a time with minimal setup required. basket mold will be sold separately from the Club Racer Kits.
mold parts
Basket mold assembled (one inside mold for picture)
side and bottom panels placed into basket mold
insert male molds
Coat joint area with epoxy before laying down fillet
use caulk tube to apply a bead of epoxy fillet putty, immediately smooth out bead into fillet shape using approximately 3/8" radius tool (about the size of a tongue depressor)
While fillet is still malleable (but not soft) lay your biaxial tape into the joints. The holes in the chine corner of the molds allows for tape to be passed from transom to transom
Wetting out the fiberglass tape
The boat now sits in the mold overnight to allow glass joint to cure. In the mean time we started making the dagger board case and the mast partner frame.
Mast partner frame is three pieces: the partner, frame, and cleat
We dry fit all the parts and hold them together with drywall screws (pre-drill pilot holes so you do not split the plywood)
epoxy glued together. we back out the screws once the epoxy cures. Make sure frame and partner are at a 90 degree angle
dagger board case:
sides and cleats are epoxy coated, the a second thicker coat of epoxy/graphite is applied to the inside surface (makes case super slick and abrasion resistant)...
Optimist Club Racer
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Re: Optimist Club Racer
The pictures are great...high quality. I think this level of detail will help new builders...and even some old ones.
The idea of coating the inside of the daggerboard trunk with graphite filled epoxy is a good idea. I have a little graphite left over and will use the idea in my new Otter/Lissa build.
The idea of coating the inside of the daggerboard trunk with graphite filled epoxy is a good idea. I have a little graphite left over and will use the idea in my new Otter/Lissa build.
Justin Pipkorn
Vagabond+ Just Right
http://www.amateurboatbuilding.com/justright/index.htm
gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=1281
Otter/Lissa
gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=1197
Vagabond+ Just Right
http://www.amateurboatbuilding.com/justright/index.htm
gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=1281
Otter/Lissa
gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=1197
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Re: Optimist Club Racer
Today we glued and fillet the dagger board case, mid-frame, and mast partner frame.
We have a locating jig that holds all three of these pieces in their correct position
Here is the jig without the dagger board case. We put packing tape on the parts that will come in contact with epoxy, so it will not stick.
this shot shows how the locating jig slides through the dagger board case and then through the slot cut in the bottom of the hull. Also there is a notch cut into the mid-frame that aligns with the little tab on the dagger board case. You really cant go wrong here.
Butter up the dagger board case (pre-coated everything first)
Putting the assembly into the boat, excess epoxy glue squeezes out.
we then glue in 1x2 cleat to the base of the dagger board case, followed by generous fillets (used 1.25" PVC pipe)on the frame and case. We are only filleting the frames on this boat
mast partner frame gets generous fillets also
Its very possible to have all the work up to this point completed in two working sessions. Ideally, each boat would only need 2 days in the mold. The boat can be removed and finished after this step. By combining many steps, it is possible to build many hulls with just one mold in a timely manner. (as a contrast; the optimist we built to the class rules spent over 2 weeks in the mold )
We have a locating jig that holds all three of these pieces in their correct position
Here is the jig without the dagger board case. We put packing tape on the parts that will come in contact with epoxy, so it will not stick.
this shot shows how the locating jig slides through the dagger board case and then through the slot cut in the bottom of the hull. Also there is a notch cut into the mid-frame that aligns with the little tab on the dagger board case. You really cant go wrong here.
Butter up the dagger board case (pre-coated everything first)
Putting the assembly into the boat, excess epoxy glue squeezes out.
we then glue in 1x2 cleat to the base of the dagger board case, followed by generous fillets (used 1.25" PVC pipe)on the frame and case. We are only filleting the frames on this boat
mast partner frame gets generous fillets also
Its very possible to have all the work up to this point completed in two working sessions. Ideally, each boat would only need 2 days in the mold. The boat can be removed and finished after this step. By combining many steps, it is possible to build many hulls with just one mold in a timely manner. (as a contrast; the optimist we built to the class rules spent over 2 weeks in the mold )
Re: Optimist Club Racer
I was just wanting to inquire about using the caulking gun to lay the fillets in...looks like a much easier, cleaner way than using the sandwich bag.
My question, is that a refillable tube and where can i get one?
My question, is that a refillable tube and where can i get one?
Location: Lake Tawakoni, TX
Dont outsmart your common sense!
Dont outsmart your common sense!
- Bowmovement
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Re: Optimist Club Racer
JamesT wrote:I was just wanting to inquire about using the caulking gun to lay the fillets in...looks like a much easier, cleaner way than using the sandwich bag.
My question, is that a refillable tube and where can i get one?
They can be used for fillets and you can order them here.....
http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetai ... M_4805_810
Matt
"Aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteers be at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a total mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe."
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Re: Optimist Club Racer
they can be re-used but its not super easy to get the cured putty out. You may use more that $1.55 in your own time to save the tube , but I can guarantee using it once saves $1.55 in time
- peter-curacao
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Re: Optimist Club Racer
Why not clean it before it cured?shine wrote:they can be re-used but its not super easy to get the cured putty out. You may use more that $1.55 in your own time to save the tube , but I can guarantee using it once saves $1.55 in time
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Re: Optimist Club Racer
You could. It would be pretty easy to use the same tube over and over during the same sitting, but if your racing against the clock (like gluing down a sole) you better just have several ready so you can get the glue out ASAPWhy not clean it before it cured?
I like to pull out the cured epoxy in one piece, just like the epoxy from a cup. The only thing I clean before the epoxy cures are laminating tools (rollers/spreaders)
Re: Optimist Club Racer
That's a lot of epoxy in one tight space(the tube). How much can you use at one time without it kicking off on you? That would be my biggest worry.
Jbo
Jbo
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Re: Optimist Club Racer
you empty the tube within minutes, I have never had a batch go off. In fact, because you get it all out so quickly, you have much more time to shape the fillet.
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