1982 Seasquirt 183 rebuild

[tech_support]

Once I am able to get this deck out, the idea was to replace the transom core first and then progress to the stringers if needed.

that is a good plan.

I was intending to bulkhead the stringer setup to capsule the fuel sell and allow a larger fish box forward of that- also bringing the necessary parts of the stringer grid up to the deck for support.

If you plan to raise the level of the sole, then that would be the way to do it - have the sole rest on (bonded to) the tops of a stinger/frame grid. Then you can glass it back to the side of the liner (in a higher spot). I would still leave the small lip going around the edge of the liner, you can epoxy down some plywood to it in order to raise it the new sole level.

[SEASQUIRT72]

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Well had some time to get going on this project this last weekend. Got the cap off and surprise....no surprise- found what I knew all along was there- nothing but rotten transom core. There really wasn't a very much that was still bonded to the outer skin as you can see in the pictures. Those "Buckets" on both sides are a challenge as they are bonded to the port and starboard side of the hull as well as the inner portion of the bucket- No worries though as I intend to raise these to the height of the rail and complete as motor well between them when the time comes. Next step to get this deck out- the core appears to be 1/2" plywood at the rear section. Don't know if i will be re-using this same design (liner) when reassembling this....
Many concerns at this time... First the outer thickness seems very thin to me- maybe 1/4 inch at best(@ transom). Next as you can see in the pictures - the stringers were never bonded to the transom. I'm definitely in need of some guidance in the design of this rebuild as there is room for improvement EVERYWHERE

[tech_support]

First the outer thickness seems very thin to me- maybe 1/4 inch at best(@ transom)

that's not bad at all

Next as you can see in the pictures - the stringers were never bonded to the transom.

that is definitely a better way to do it. You will leave/make limber holes for drainage. Cut the stringers back enough to get the new transom in. Later you will use a splice piece to incorporate the stringer ends to the transom - covered/bonded with lots of glass.

In close up pictures its hard to know what your looking at unless your the one who took the picture Once I figured out the orientation, they made sense

[SEASQUIRT72]

First off sorry about the long delay in between post. But after a rough week at work I got back after getting this deck out. I intended to take more pictures but I was trying to maintain motivation without getting discouraged. Once I was able to free the deck and remove it, I discovered how much FOAM and did I mention FOAM there was in this hull On top of the foam was a ton of leaves and about 15 empty beer cans in the bow (wonder how those got there?)...WOW

At first- the attack began with a very large scraper but progress was very SLOW.... Eventually I found that a trenching shovel removed the stuff very well and progressed through the foam as fast as I could. After filling 3 45gal yard bags ...this is what she looks like.. .

Now that I can see what I'm working with, I'm hoping to make some serious progress. I trimmed back about 10" of the inner stringers at the transom. The stringer cores are solid / found some de-lamination in the very ends before the transom / but as they were not attached(@ the transom) there doesn't appear to be much damage. You can see the de-lam under the cleaned area at the port side stringer in the picture below. Please let me know if those areas that pealed to the mat on the transom outer skin are something to be concerned with? They get pretty thin at the top. I was intending to bring the transom height up to the cap at the sides of the motor-well...any suggestions ?

I still have some foam left in the starboard gunwale and that chase tube that needs to be removed...Easier said than done! I was going to leave the foam forward of those chase tubes in the gunwale but should I remove it? I'm installing rod holder liners on both sides (aft of the chase tubes) but don't have them yet so I wasn't cutting the gunwale away until I had exact dimensions for placement. Might have to wait on that starboard side to completely clean out until they arrive ..



Next to get busy with sanding and prep for the transom core and to gauge the proper stringer height to set up a grid for the bulkheads. I've admired all the posts I've read over the years.... any advise is appreciated...

[jacquesmm]

That begins to look clean.
It will be your decision to weld the sole to the liner or to the side. To the sides will be stronger but if the foam between liner and side is dry, you could stop at the liner.

Is that sole going to sit on the stringers? How is the sole supported?
You can see how we do it in the Aquasport thread.

For the end of the stringers, you should cut the part that is bad, add a piece, butt block or sister that piece all the way to the transom and weld (tab) to the new transom.
I would use the same materials than what we show in the Aquasport thread.

[SEASQUIRT72]

Thanks for the reply jacquesmm...To answer you question- yes the foam between the hull and liner is dry. Even though the damage to the stringers was minimal( less than 2") I will be removing the 2 inner stringers and making new ones (along with bulkheads) to dimensions that will support the sole. Upon inspection of the existing sole the major problem was lack of support- I've decided to replace the damaged core material in the sole to correct the de-lamination issues, re-enforce with cross-bracing under the live-well and center console and re-install the sole 1/2"- 5/8" higher on the liner sides leaving a 1/2 gap to allow water to bail to the sides and back to scuppers to drain. I will need to back the sole with material (any suggestions) to mount the T-Top, center console, and leaning post/live well. I intend to glass in the console and live well/ leaning post ensuring no water below deck aside from the bilge when the forward fish box is drained. This week I will be able to get this cleaned and prep ed for the transom repair. Don't want to remove the stringers until that's completed. Need some materials. What would you suggest? Would like to order to keep me moving on this

[jacquesmm]

I will reply on Monday with some material suggestions but you will probably buy plywood or core material locally. We can supply fiberglass, epoxy etc.
Go to our HowTo page and read the file about console installation, it gives you choices.

[SEASQUIRT72]

So...easier said than done with cleaning up this transom. I really don't know if this is some sort of poly glue or what it is exactly- you can see it in the pictures- but very tough to knock down. Gums up 24 grit grinding disks... I think at some point the previous owner had informed me (after I owned the boat) that the transom had a filler repair. If that was the case they did a poor job as well...Anyone PLEASE chime in if you know a better possible way to fare this material or I'm going to just grind away... literally. Anyway- enough whining Spent several days sourcing core materials- found a distributor for Okoume , Meranti and Marine Fir. Would be nice to get everything from Bateau but shipping that far on sheet goods just kills us. Thanks jacquesmm. Placing a order for materials to get going on this transom repair tomorrow since I won't be able to work on it this till Sunday and still have much clean-up to do. Forgive me if my calculations are way off being new to boat repair but here was my anticipated list to get going with possible extra for other repairs- 10 yards of 1708, 3 gal marine epoxy kit, 5 lbs wood flour,50 yd roll 12 oz biaxial tape. Please correct me if my numbers are off or if I missed something completely

Thanks

[jacquesmm]

If somebody used 5200 or similar to repair, it will be a difficult job to remove.
Try solvents that you let sit overnight and grind the next day. Or a heat gun.

Your order looks OK to start.
I would order more resin, 4.5 gallons and a second roll of tape.
You may not need it right away but you will use it later.

[Cracker Larry]

A sharp chisel and mallet, or an air chisel. It ain't an easy job!

I agree with Jacques, 3 gallons of epoxy won't be enough.