I bought oars already. Mostly because I didn't have a planer and I'm just not into hand planing theses days. That said, I'm already collecting logs. Three ply shafts (oak over cherry) and 7 sections for blade. Won't be ready to start until winter '18. I have some learning to do as well as letting the logs dry.
I think this is the first time I've really missed my shop. Would have been so much easier with all my old toys.
Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
- Jaysen
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 6499
- Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:59 am
- Location: St Helena Island, SC
- Contact:
Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
-
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 3041
- Joined: Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:29 am
- Location: Marin County, CA
- Contact:
Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Actually I don't quite follow...but I think I get the jist. Very, very impressive work!Look into that idea for how to increase the accuracy of you planing.
I've been busy a couple of days but wanted to send you this to let know know that there are other insane builders with different but clever approaches:
This is gk108 and you can find this part of his build here:
https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.ph ... &start=110
Tony
- Jaysen
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 6499
- Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:59 am
- Location: St Helena Island, SC
- Contact:
Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
My original plan was something like that. But then reality smacked me in the face and pointed out that I'd need a flat and reasonably stable surface. I'd also looked into the section approach but would have needed a table saw and router table. That's when I started to really miss my shop.
The tenon for setting depth for plane: this was shown to me by an old guy up north who made beautiful high end furniture with no power tools or metal fasteners. The tenon creates a support for the planes tail. You start from the tenon working away from it. Once you've removed the shoulder from the tenon you're done. The key is to reduce the cut and lengthen the stroke as you make progress. Try sketching it out and drawing the cuts and it should make sense. If not let me know and I'll grab some scrap and try to show you what I mean.
Glue issue as resurfaced. This time new resin and slow hardener. Here's the thing, I did a split batch with some being used straight and some with silica. Applied 6p yesterday. Straight is hard and sandable. Silica is soft. Does silica require more time to cure?
Which leads me to my detailed plans for today.
Was hoping to sand and graphite things. Can't sand so... switching to mast step and partner.
The plan has a 3" hole in the partner and then mention an insert that is not called out. I'm taking this to mean that I should NOT cut a 3" hole but should match the hole to mast diameter plus some type of bushing material.
My mast step plan is a 2" pvc silp cap. The will be screws to the step block. Anyone see a problem with that?
Thanks
The tenon for setting depth for plane: this was shown to me by an old guy up north who made beautiful high end furniture with no power tools or metal fasteners. The tenon creates a support for the planes tail. You start from the tenon working away from it. Once you've removed the shoulder from the tenon you're done. The key is to reduce the cut and lengthen the stroke as you make progress. Try sketching it out and drawing the cuts and it should make sense. If not let me know and I'll grab some scrap and try to show you what I mean.
Glue issue as resurfaced. This time new resin and slow hardener. Here's the thing, I did a split batch with some being used straight and some with silica. Applied 6p yesterday. Straight is hard and sandable. Silica is soft. Does silica require more time to cure?
Which leads me to my detailed plans for today.
Was hoping to sand and graphite things. Can't sand so... switching to mast step and partner.
The plan has a 3" hole in the partner and then mention an insert that is not called out. I'm taking this to mean that I should NOT cut a 3" hole but should match the hole to mast diameter plus some type of bushing material.
My mast step plan is a 2" pvc silp cap. The will be screws to the step block. Anyone see a problem with that?
Thanks
-
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 3041
- Joined: Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:29 am
- Location: Marin County, CA
- Contact:
Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
I have to run out to teach a sailing class but I did finally figure out the planing procedure you mentioned. Very clever.
I have never used pure silica so can't really answer. I only add silica when sagging is an issue. Not sure what you're using it for but you don't need silica for a lot of things. Structural stuff I use milled fiber and fairing I use microballoons. Silica is always an additive the way I do things, not the main filler.
You're going great. I'll give the mast partners/step some though but probably can't get back to you today.
I have never used pure silica so can't really answer. I only add silica when sagging is an issue. Not sure what you're using it for but you don't need silica for a lot of things. Structural stuff I use milled fiber and fairing I use microballoons. Silica is always an additive the way I do things, not the main filler.
You're going great. I'll give the mast partners/step some though but probably can't get back to you today.
Tony
- topwater
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 3131
- Joined: Tue Oct 30, 2007 6:27 pm
- Location: Port Charlotte
- Location: Florida
Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Straight silica will make an extremely hard and smooth fillet or glue , hard to sand compared to wood flour .
If silica is still soft then epoxy isn't cured or a boxed mix .
If silica is still soft then epoxy isn't cured or a boxed mix .
Novi 23 finally launched !
- Jaysen
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 6499
- Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:59 am
- Location: St Helena Island, SC
- Contact:
Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
It's the exact same batch I used to straight coat stuff. And tha straight is hard as a rock. The only time I'm having cute issues is with the silica.
That said I LOVE the stuff. Easy to get into shapes. Smooths to the point of almost not needing sanding if you don't over work it.
That said I LOVE the stuff. Easy to get into shapes. Smooths to the point of almost not needing sanding if you don't over work it.
- topwater
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 3131
- Joined: Tue Oct 30, 2007 6:27 pm
- Location: Port Charlotte
- Location: Florida
Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Lay down a silica fillet let it firm up ,then coat it with straight epoxy and you are ready for a light sand and primer.
That's how i did all the fillets that show in the pilot house of my boat .
That's how i did all the fillets that show in the pilot house of my boat .
Novi 23 finally launched !
- Jaysen
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 6499
- Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:59 am
- Location: St Helena Island, SC
- Contact:
Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
That's how it will be done on the next boat.
-
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 3041
- Joined: Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:29 am
- Location: Marin County, CA
- Contact:
Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
It's guys like Topwater and Jacques with their stories of fillets that required "little or no sanding" that had me chewing nails during my build. I never got close to that.
I still think, like others, that the kind of filler you use, unless it is wet mud, should not affect the cure time.
I still think, like others, that the kind of filler you use, unless it is wet mud, should not affect the cure time.
Tony
- Jaysen
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 6499
- Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:59 am
- Location: St Helena Island, SC
- Contact:
Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
I tried that straight over mixed trick and it works. I'm too sloppy to say "no sanding" but the fillet itself was smooth.
I agree in the dry time. That's what has me confused. If it wasn't the silica why did the straight set but the silica didn't? The only thing I can think of, and this is "logic" not "evidence" based, is that it isnt extending the cure time then it has to be adding elasticity until COMPLETE cure as opposed to an observed cure. That electricity would account for the balling when sanding as well.
That's what my brain is telling me anyway.
I agree in the dry time. That's what has me confused. If it wasn't the silica why did the straight set but the silica didn't? The only thing I can think of, and this is "logic" not "evidence" based, is that it isnt extending the cure time then it has to be adding elasticity until COMPLETE cure as opposed to an observed cure. That electricity would account for the balling when sanding as well.
That's what my brain is telling me anyway.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests