LB26

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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

My boat electrical system is pretty complex. I am still working on it. The hardest part is using the outboards to charge the batteries. I have Orions and spent $400 on a Sterling charger. One of my Orions is no longer sending out a wifi signal, so I need to spend a day on the boat working on it. But I have about $1000 into the engine charging systems alone and they are not ideal.

Insulating the cabin roof may be vital for you as well.

You have lots to think about. Once you pin down the requirements; it will be easier to meet them as a whole, rather than piecemal..


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Jaysen
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Re: LB26

Post by Jaysen »

You can add a TEC plate in a cooler as well. They provide 12v chilling. Similar to a fridge mechanism but no mechanics. Common as long distance sailing add to built in ice boxes.

In my opinion they are the right compromise for most boats that aren’t running full time power plants.
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les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Thanks guys

Who would have thought buying a fridge would be this complicated :lol:

Jacques

Not sure if you are lost at sea or up a mountain !!! I posted a few days ago regarding drilling a 120mm whole through frame G + F to fit the exhaust pipe.

Is there anything I need to think about or do once drilled ???

Cheers

Les

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

You can hole the bulkhead. It is best to avoid holing it at the edges or in the tabbing unless this is the requirement. And, it is best to allow some extra space for the exhaust as required. If not specified; air gap can be determined.

I do not like to leave a fiberglass hole for something to wear through. If the exhaust is metal; you will be fine. But for other things like a hose or especially wiring; the holes should be lined. You can make guides with rubber with cloth inside as well. I slit one side of the rubber and screw four small 316 screws on each side of the bulkhead.

Another option is to use old innertube and wrap the wires themselves.

I also used pvc pipe to line holes. I scratched it and sealed it in with Black Mamba FHG which was advised by Aripeka Angler (Richard) and seems to be working. Epoxy does NOT and I tried.

I do not know the glass transistion temperature of your core versus epoxy and fumed silica to tell you if decoring and filling is better.

There are a few things as a builder where we feel we must ask, but after awhile; when there is no other option; we must act. This is one of those. The bulkheads strength is only affected if you hole it at some place where it can obviously collapse or shear if you hit a wave at speed.

Good luck Les. You are at a time when a chair, a glass of beer, a good friend will help you build the boat you want to spend time on..
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les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Hi Guys

Cheers Dan, and yes the exhaust pipe is rubber. I will definitely be slicing some hose and fixing around the hole.

Does anyone know where Jacques is ??

Had the Nanni technician around today to look at the engine they are going to do the connection due warranty, if I do it the warranty is void... Great guys BUT they did raise an interesting question relating to the discharge from the exhaust, this will fall directly on to the bating platform which is marine deck..... NOT GOOD

Any thoughts on this ?

Cheers

Les

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

Can you explain the exhaust situation better?

Drawing with heights and dimensions?

I am thinking you cutout deck or add a stainless plate, but no idea the dims.

Also, what is the outlet temp?

Corecell can handle 150F real well. Might get dirty, though. Rated for 200+. You could also try to postcure just the swim..but not sure the dang paint can handle the temps either...thus the plate idea..but without dims and data not much to go on here

Another approach is to use it to failure with a plan to add a plate or cut away affected area later. But like I said; lotsa guessing here.
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Re: LB26

Post by jacquesmm »

les2021 wrote: Mon Nov 21, 2022 3:58 am

Jacques

Not sure if you are lost at sea or up a mountain !!! I posted a few days ago regarding drilling a 120mm whole through frame G + F to fit the exhaust pipe.

Is there anything I need to think about or do once drilled ???
You can drill holes as long as you leave a 3" offset from the edges. Fiberglass the edges. In some cases, you can make a cut in a frame along the hull, I have to see where you want to do that.
For an exhaust, It would stay away from the hull skin and pay attention to insulation.
Some exhaust hoses are very insulated, others not. It depends on the type of hose. Ask the vendor of the hoses. Use hangers to keep the exhaust hoses away from edges.

Sorry for the delayed replies. I am retired and at 76, I want to enjoy travels as much as possible. I like remote places and that means, I am often without internet. I try to find places with a connection, download questions and reply later but it may take days before I can send a reply.
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Re: LB26

Post by jacquesmm »

les2021 wrote: Wed Nov 23, 2022 5:15 am Hi Guys

Cheers Dan, and yes the exhaust pipe is rubber. I will definitely be slicing some hose and fixing around the hole.

Does anyone know where Jacques is ??

Had the Nanni technician around today to look at the engine they are going to do the connection due warranty, if I do it the warranty is void... Great guys BUT they did raise an interesting question relating to the discharge from the exhaust, this will fall directly on to the bating platform which is marine deck..... NOT GOOD

Any thoughts on this ?

Cheers

Les
The outlet should be just under the swim platform.
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les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Morning All

Thanks Jacques

My apologise for chasing you down, I only contact when it is something I think is important for your input as designer.

My swim platform is 200mm to the top from the water line you then have a thickness of approx 50mm of platform, this leaves 150mm to water line. The Nanni installation manual shows and notes that the exhaust outlet must be 200mm above water line unless I am reading this incorrectly.
Your detail on the Machinery drawing seems to suggest that the exhaust outlet is 220mm above the soul / cockpit floor.

The exhaust outlet fitting is 150mm in diameter on the outside. So if fitted this would touch on the water line and go against the Nanni recommendations.

Cheers

Les
569B3BB3-CA27-4192-A148-FA6553C19970.jpeg

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

I deleted my original reply after I got to thinking more.

So, there is some confusion here because of definitions and the Nanni manual.

Waterline.

There are two effective waterlines on a planing hull. A static waterline at rest and a waterline underway. The waterline underway is the bottom of the transom; generally. Even when you are under the hump; the waterline drops to nearer and nearer the bottom.

The design waterline for a trawler is the same as the waterline underway. See the issue?

Install the outlet so all precautions are taken to minimize the back pressure concerns they have for a heavily loaded boat, up to an including a bigger line.

Use their minimums versus design waterline for the u and others.

Exit below the platform. The only time you'll ever be immersed is if you have a ton of people and you are idling for some reason for an extended period which is not typical. If the tech comes back; remind them that this is a planing hull and the waterline is much lower when you are underway. An exception is backing of course, but this is why the high hoop.
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