1988 Shoalwater 176 Rebuild

[fallguy1000]

The only way to cut that is to do major reconstruction; so leave it.

But it is a design flaw in the hull.

If you ever experience prop blowout at top speed or inability to get to wot; you'll know the reason..

If you experience blowout; you might be able to deal with it by inching down; so a hydraulic jackplate that'll go minus would be a no hull correction solution to the potential problem that may not exist at all!

[redfishjim]

Ben a bit since my last update. Waited a couple weeks to flip the boat back over after painting. Since, I've been working on storage areas, plumbing ideas, and deck hatches. Couple decisions that have slowed me down a bit; making a livewell infront of the keyhole transom(still not quite finished0, and making my own deck hatches via Willg's method shown in his PH18 build and added directions shared on the phone. Big thanks to Will, I absolutely destroyed a perfectly good sheet of ply, and about had an emotional breakdown over it before he set me straight...lol. Drilling transom holes had me nervous as a cat too! Luckily holes are square and seem to be centered.

I have the undersides of my decks epoxied up with 3 coats, gunwales just got glued in. Next, before I glue in my front and aft decks, I have to paint my storage compartments. I can almost see the end!

Pics:

[pee wee]

Drilling transom holes had me nervous as a cat too! Luckily holes are square and seem to be centered.

The holes look round to me! LoL, I can't tell from the photo how you handled the holes in the transom, but be sure you seal up that plywood well. It's a pain to do, but drilling out the holes oversize and filling them with epoxy/filler and coming back after it's set to drill the correct size holes will be the surest way. Of course, that also means needing to touchup paint. Drilling them a bit oversize and painting neat epoxy in there with a little brush is easier but more prone to missing spots, and water loves to find those spots.

All that is optional, of course, but highly recommended.

Great job on the hatches, btw, they look fabulous!

[Jeff]

Nice progress!!! Jeff

[redfishjim]

Thanks Jeff and peewee. Peewee, I'll drill the transom holes a size bigger and brush in some epoxy, i like that idea.

I like to try new products as much as I can, so for the bow compartment I figured I try some brush on Interlux Perfection. Actually first time I've ever brushed in any paint on a boat. Flowed great and I overlapped 3 layers on top of eachother with 45min-hr separation. Below's a pic after the first coat. Took three layers for full coverage. Changed my whole perspective on brushing in paint, flowed great, no brush marks or bubbles. Being late to news like normal, I go online to buy more Perfection thinking, hell, I'll just do the whole topside with it. Find out Perfection's been discontinued and I can't find it anywhere, lol! So the plan is to finish the topside with Awlgrip, but with brush converter/reducer.

Next comes the rear compartment. Finally got it primed, but still have some ugly spots that need some love. Not looking for perfect since it's below deck, but got to have some quality control.

Question for the forum. I'm using 1/2" ply for the front deck, do I need to install more framing or do you think the deck support in the below pic is good enough? Bottom of the 1/2" ply has 3 coats of epoxy, top of the deck is to received a layer of 16 oz biaxal and fairing.