Using molds for frames?

[Buz]

Several boats here use the molds as frames after flipping.

I went under my upside-down stitched hull today and was surprised (a bit) to see the hull is touching practically nothing except the top of the molds.

But was greatly surprised that the gap around the sides and bottom is faaar wider than would be filled with fillets.

Whutup widdat?

[OlivierP]

Well, assuming there is no cutting error in the panels, frames or jig, it would mean that the hull has not reached its intended shape yet. It may take time for plywood to relax, twist and bend as required, and a little help with weights, belts or temporary screws may be required to pull the panels close to the frames.

[Buz]

I went another way. I decided that since it looked sooo good and fair and right the way it hangs there that I was ready to keep going.

I was more concerned about how y'all boats with the mold-frames work than I am about mine.

And while typing this I just realized (!) I haven't even measured my beam. Diagonals are too close to see difference.

[TomW1]

You say the gaps are f0r wider, what is far wider 1/4" 1/2"? You also mention the tips are Touching, this may be keeping them from sitting down properly.

Tom

[Buz]

Over a half up to an inch each side. I'm not using the molds for this boat so I was just wondering. And then I learned something I wasnt expecting, huh.

I went back through the build notes last night and see the caution to watch for excess flair. Don't know why that didnt stick before.

Its tacked. Might as well consider that if you have recommedations at this point.

Sure felt like pushing the tips in flaired the sides, and unflairing the sides pushed the tip forward. The tips, both sides and bottoms, meet hard and with even gap before that droop is out with the front frame where it is. The high spot along the sheer is only 18" back, in front of the frame it needs to bend around. Thats a lot of bending right in the ends of the panels to take out that droop. I considered cutting a wider tapered slot between the halves. But it seems another frame at 12" or so is still needed to bend that short section against anyway.

Maybe starting stitching at the bow without first screwing the transom in place would allow things to work. But still would need something to do the job of a frame closer than 21" from the tip, and the panel ends gap evenly as is, so I dont think that's it, either.

[Dougster]

An inch doesn't sound like much to me. They're just throw away molds right? You'll cut the frames to fit. Seem to me if it's fair and symmetrical things are fine. How close is the beam measure to the plans?

Dougster

[Buz]

Gaps are up to an inch each side. Beam is an inch plus over advertized. Not going to worry further about it, my boat doesn't use the molds as frames.

[Dougster]

Those molds were just recomendations. The ply took them into account then did what was best. Wood knows

Dougster

[OrangeQuest]

A lot of builders will add a board, or two, three or more depending on size, to hold the sides to the correct beam after the molds are removed. This is after the flip. Then you can measure and cut out the frames knowing that the beam is correct. Once the frames are tacked, the boards can be removed then finish filleting and taping the frames.

[Buz]

That's what I'll do, then. Thanks.