VG23 New Build

[Jaysen]

bubble over the head

Viable solution! The globe 580 use those to allow safe viewing from inside the cabin. I’d consider a general lift able hatch as a simpler solution.

[mhd]

I'm going to stick with the Jabsco and holding tank. I have it already. I'd already roughly worked out the plumbing, etc. Plus I don't want to lift the cabin or install another hatch, or to add anything further on the deck. Other builders (VG20) have put a porta-potty on a pull out in the centre of the forecabin under the foreberth. Slightly more headroom there. But it didn't appeal to me as that is where I want the batteries, etc.

I'm just about to finish priming a large chunk of the interior cabin. Paint will be next

Cheers,

Mick

[fallguy1000]

Good luck Mick.

You know I’m supporting the Jabsco 110%. Noone will ever freak out using your head, even if they have to duck a bit.

[mhd]

Thanks Fallguy et al,

Yep, Jabsco plus holding tank. I'm biting the bullet on the extra through-hull, but the kit to do that is already here and I'd done most of the planning on how it would fit. The space isn't exactly huge. A hair under 19" in width and constrained in depth by the hull deadrise, and necessary head room. Photo of the installation area below.

I've spend the last few days fairing the cabin and sandingsandingsanding. Horrible hand-sanding in tricky places. I use my Makita orbital sander for the flat bits, then rubber shaped formers for most of the rest, plus mini-belt sander. But the tricky corners are impossible to get at except with fingers and pain. Fingers and thumb on my right hand were honestly bleeding by the end, mostly due to the detail on the starboard side. And the level I've been going for is "just good enough". Not boat show finish by a long chalk. Anyway, I'll post photos of the detail at some point, but a preview of progress below. But hey, when you've built your own boat, you know the score. No pain no gain. I'll enjoy telling tall stories about it all, sipping a G&T in a foreign port somewhere. One day. That is the dream.

I hope to get the rest of the cabin done by the end of the weekend, with at least one coat of paint.

Cheers,

Mick

[fallguy1000]

I am just going to share the lockers with the access on top suck. Ask me how I know. I get the thinking because the hull angle, but I’d make a half door in the front with say a 6” high sill. Nice spot for duffel bag.

Moving cushions to get the things in the locker is more than a minor nuisance.

The better way to go is side access. I’m changing a bunch of my settee stuff so we can get to gear easier. I can’t even toss a duffel bag into a locker without moving cushions.

And those top down designs leak if outside.

[mhd]

I am just going to share the lockers with the access on top suck.

Ah, I know why you say that, but I think the situation with a sailboat is slightly different to power boat. For the entire design I've been trying to imagine the consequences of a large amount of water in the cabin when offshore, via a hole in the hull, capsize, whatever. Those lockers under the berths will be for all the heavy items that need infrequent access. Primarily to keep the centre of gravity as low as possible. Spare tins of food, water, tools. Given the location of the companionway access, it is likely (i.e. a certainty) that we'll get water in the cabin at some point. Water slopping around the bottom of the boat would get inside side-access lockers, even with a 6" sill. Jacques' original design had that kind of build, with "lightening holes" with a 3" sill under the berths. Ok for daysailing, etc. But I wasn't happy imagining being offshore with a serious amount of water in the cabin, and the consequences. They way we've built, with top-access+lid+seal, means that it will take some time for any of the lockers to fill. Some people use floatation foam to make their boat "unsinkable" but we need the space for storage. Our boat *will* sink if it fills with water. But it won't sink immediately if the lockers don't fill. Hence, I've tried to compartmentalise everything, so even in a worst-case situation, it will take time. There is enough air in the lockers to keep the boat afloat. Temporarily at least. We've ended up with a heavier-than-designed boat as a result of all the changes. Also a much longer build too. No perfect solution. We've sacrificed some convenience for a bit more security in a situation I pray never happens. Regardless, I'm sure whatever we're looking for, at any point, will be in the least-convenient location.

Yes, I'm much more concerned about leaks in the outside locker lids. I spent a lot of time figuring out how to build the lids for the lockers in the cockpit. They have internal drain sills (still not complete), and will have rubber seals. But you are right, I'm also 100% certain they'll still leak. I am hopeful they' won't leak too much. Those lockers will contain sails, spare sailing gear, etc. Anything that we have that won't be terminal if it gets damp/wet. They will leak, yes. I wish I knew how much. Once the boat is turned, and I finish them off, I'll put a hose on them and test. I hope any leaks will be minor, but I'll let you know!

Cheers,

Mick

[fallguy1000]

I have 3 in sole open to sky lockers.

The biggest issue is the drains get plugged with leaves and crud.

Add drains on all 4 corners. I used a 3/4” npt to 3/4” barb nylon.. then I think 3/4” id tubing to thru hulls

[mhd]

Depressing couple of days. Had two further attempts at getting a non-leaking watertank. Failed. I end up with absolutely micro-leaks in one or more corners. Tried various methods of reinforcing them, and tried to fix the leaks by drilling out and resealing, but no success. So, I'm going to admit defeat and buy a tank. Sad, as I'd planned to have the tank conform to the hull-shape for extra volume, but it isn't too critical. The bought ones don't have seams so are likely more robust. Time will tell.

In other news, I've got the first coat of paint on pretty much the entire cabin now. Glad that part is over. I'll be less rigourous with the rest of the interior (and I wasn't too rigourous anyway!). Winter now so paint is taking its time to dry. With all the dust in the garage, there is no hope of getting a decent finish, no matter how much I clean up beforehand. So I'll stick with one coat only, and leave any further coats until the boat is turned, the deck is on, and I've completely cleaned dust from the garage when the hull is outside.

Giving myself a couple of days to easy my weary limbs. Tomorrow I can relax with fixing a deck post, and the day after i've got the front-door to paint. Living the dream.

Mick

[mhd]

Joined the two pieces of the forward section of the deck together. I wanted to get them joined so I can cut open an anchor locker deck hatch, with an internal sill, plus fit backing pads of ply for deck hardware. Practically impossible to do well once the deck is bonded to the deck beams, but I wanted the deck at least approximating the correct camber first. So I temporarily screwed it all down, with a piece of plastic underneath so it won't bond to the deck beams, and joined with 12ox biax. I'll leave it 24 hours and then hopefully unscrew and see how its looking. I've been looking back over my notes from 12 months ago to check how I want all the deck hardware at the bow to fit (anchor roller, fore-stay fitting, possible bow-sprit attachment, stanchion bases, cleats, etc).

The past few days I've also been preparing to fit the head and associated sea-cocks. I've selected three water tanks also, and hopefully they'll not be too long arriving. Fitting the head, is one of the few remaining jobs prior to the deck and gunwale going on.

Mick

[mhd]

Decent few days. Carried on preparing to fit the head by glassing in raised pieces of ply for the seacocks, plus getting the base and supports for the head prepared so the head can be through-bolted.

Also marked out where the deck hardware over the foredeck will go, and cut the chain-locker access hatch. It isn't large but doesn't need to be. Due to all the deck hardware over the chain locker needing multiple backing plates, I simply glued on a piece of ply to double the deck thickness from the bow to the first bulkhead. Easier and simpler - access in that area isn't easy. The deck forward of the two port-to-starboard red parallel lines is double thickness now - 12oz glass on the underside, like the rest of the chain locker. The edges of the hatch need rounding over and glassing which will be a pain, but I'm happy with how it is going to work out practically. Apart from trying to bend the composite 3/4 inch thickness of the deck - you can see the multiple screws buried in the deck as I tested that I could actually get the required deck camber. Just. Of course, I could have been a bit more patient and done it all in more stages, one layer at a time, which would have been easier on the fingers, but well...I didn't. The hatch itself, plus the anchor-roller base are now partially glassed in preparation for fitting. There will be a raised fitting for the chain to pass through the hatch itself. No room in the locker for an anchor, so I may end up installing fittings to secure it on deck (or alternatively in a locker).

To starboard of the centre-line there will be a mahogany extension (red markings) that will hold the anchor roller, plus one stanchion base (more red markings right ont the edge). To port will be a mahogany base to support a possible bowsprit (marked in black crosses), and another stanchion base. The fore-stay fitting is on the centreline (pieces cut but needs welding together).

The anchor locker needs the lower portion painting now, and at that point I'll be ready to glue on the front half of the deck. Exciting times. I'm estimating early January for turning the boat over now. Off to the bright lights and the big city in a few days to buy wood to make a frame to support the boat when it is flipped.

Cheers,

MIck