Panga Pg25 questions

[Longislandfish]

1) in the frames diagram the transom BL to Keel measurement is not provided. The only values are the Chine lengths and Shear.

2) is it possible to make the transom beefed up by adding another layer or ply to support a 150hp outboard. If no I would defer to Suzuki df140 at 400lbs. it is essentially a tuned 115 block

3) is it possible to add a delta pad to the hull bottom?

4) will raising the sole 1.5 inches help keep the hull self-bailing? there are reported issues with the hulls bailing at rest at DWL

5) the fuel tank noted in the plans seems to be too big to fit under the casting deck, will moving frame B further back a few inches be acceptable to fit a 55gallon tank?


6) will this hull achieve 45 mph with the right power? I see in the study plans the calculated hull speeds and power for those numbers. Will the hull be unsafe at those speeds?

7) I would like to be able to achieve 40mph on flat conditions. What additional changes would need to be made in order to satisfy that requirement. Beefing up the transom and stringers seems like a good idea; more glass would seem logical as well.

love this design the shape and overall hull. I am willing to make changes and take a chance, but I would prefer not to have an underpowered vessel, 90HP seems a bit low, most Yamaha design pangas "true panga designs with delta pads" deck and center console need 115HP for decent performance up to 40MPH. Comparing the two hulls the weights are pretty similar and the beam as well. The molded hulls have reverse chines and chine flats built into the hulls to help with spray and they work superb. I would guess that a Suzuki DF140 would be an absolute perfect motor for this boat at 400lbs. I would guess that 40mph would be achievable and it would have excellent cruise speeds and enough power to push the boat loaded down.

Thank you for your input.


T

[Fuzz]

I see in the plans JM showed speeds with 150 HP. I am pretty sure he would not have shown that if he was not sure the transom would handle it. The 150 Merc has earned a pretty outstanding rep from what I read. I have a couple of Suzuki outboards and have been very pleased with them so I think either one will please you.
It is my understanding that a pad either helps a boat plane with short HP or is made for the boat to run on at very high speeds. I am not sure the Panga 25 fits either one of those cases. I have a 22 foot SeaSport built in the mid 80s with a pad. At the time power was 130hp I/O and they needed help to get up on top. When I put a bracket with 200hp on the boat it would get up on the pad and then was unstable. Anything over 35 was plumb scary. I would be concerned this would be the case with your panga also. By the way I cut the pad out of the hull and now you can walk away from the wheel at 40 mph.

[TomW1]

Jacques said that a 150 could be mounted with no changes needed but a 125 would work better. I would put another layer of of 1/4 ply on the transom and another layer of fiberglass on the bottom as the extra speed increases the forces on the bottom incrementally.

Also the Panga is a narrow boat compared to other 25' boats, It will tend to roll and lean more.

Tom

[TomW1]

Jacques said that a 150 could be mounted with no changes needed but a 125 would work better. I would put another layer of of 1/4 ply on the transom and another layer of fiberglass on the bottom as the extra speed increases the forces on the bottom incrementally.

Also the Panga is a narrow boat compared to other 25' boats, It will tend to roll and lean more.

Tom

[Longislandfish]

Appreciate the help.

I think I will go for max hp and raise sole 1.5 inch or so.

Also install 55gal fuel tank between C-E stations and remove D.

I’m willing to bet that this deign is more stable and more freeboard at DWl then the Yamaha designs. I was on a 25 eduardono and it was like a canoe

[Longislandfish]

I have a stupid question about the jig setup and stations.

Looking at the schematics the stations are placed 36 inches measured from rear face. I imagine that the BL and CL line would be how these molds are leveled. My only thought to do this would be build a level square strong back and cut identical longitudinal framing members like 2x4 or 2x3 and mount them in the appropriate locations also leveled and square and identical locations on strong back, and level them with the BL marks and cl marks on the molds?


Also wouldn’t the stringers automatically align the frames like a jig saw puzzle as long as notches are placed correctly? I am trying to imagine building a boat upside down, the only reference line would be the BL but what would that be referenced to? I assume the Strong back jig and longitudinal framing members. Seems to me they would all need to be the same otherwise the molds would vary in height. Idk how precise this needs to be but the boards will also be bent around as well

[OlivierP]

Did you check the BBC tutorial "Self Aligning Jig System" ? It's a good starting point.

A level strongback is a useful reference, you set the baseline at a certain height above the strongback. The stringers indeed help to align everything. But you should use multiple ways to control that everything is level and square. A method that worked for me is a laser beam though tiny holes at the same location in each frame, if you can see the light beam through all frames your alignment is pretty good.

[TomTom]

1) in the frames diagram the transom BL to Keel measurement is not provided. The only values are the Chine lengths and Shear.

2) is it possible to make the transom beefed up by adding another layer or ply to support a 150hp outboard. If no I would defer to Suzuki df140 at 400lbs. it is essentially a tuned 115 block

3) is it possible to add a delta pad to the hull bottom?

4) will raising the sole 1.5 inches help keep the hull self-bailing? there are reported issues with the hulls bailing at rest at DWL

5) the fuel tank noted in the plans seems to be too big to fit under the casting deck, will moving frame B further back a few inches be acceptable to fit a 55gallon tank?


6) will this hull achieve 45 mph with the right power? I see in the study plans the calculated hull speeds and power for those numbers. Will the hull be unsafe at those speeds?

7) I would like to be able to achieve 40mph on flat conditions. What additional changes would need to be made in order to satisfy that requirement. Beefing up the transom and stringers seems like a good idea; more glass would seem logical as well.

love this design the shape and overall hull. I am willing to make changes and take a chance, but I would prefer not to have an underpowered vessel, 90HP seems a bit low, most Yamaha design pangas "true panga designs with delta pads" deck and center console need 115HP for decent performance up to 40MPH. Comparing the two hulls the weights are pretty similar and the beam as well. The molded hulls have reverse chines and chine flats built into the hulls to help with spray and they work superb. I would guess that a Suzuki DF140 would be an absolute perfect motor for this boat at 400lbs. I would guess that 40mph would be achievable and it would have excellent cruise speeds and enough power to push the boat loaded down.

Thank you for your input.


T

I think this Panga design will probably do everything you want it to - but if you have a “need for speed” in a Panga-esq design have you looked at the GulfStream 28?

[nightcrawler]

Hello
I built the pg25s version 3 years ago and fished it in the keys winters of 22 and 23 am fishing out of punta gorda this winter. First off I built a little heavy with 2 layers of glass outside and made the stringers 2" deeper to raise the sole. the boat stays self bailing with 2 anglers and a 35gal live well at the transom. I also have 3 82 lbs batteries under the cc. I am running a 115 4s mercury ct i also have a 32 gal fuel tank under the sole. @ 4000 rpm I get around 24-25 mph at 5000 I get around 31 32. the boat is great in a head sea but tends to want to pitch pole in large following waves. I need to keep my speed down in said conditions.
Hope this helps
Roland
ps I'd post pictures on here but it is a pita. IF you have an e mail could send some there