Thanks ks8. A lot of this detail work came from the irregularities that I had in the chine radius. I also feel like it is better to get continuous ridges like tape seams and those flat spots faired before putting the 6 oz. over them. So I got them both at once. If I was using biax cloth it would be different, but for abrasion resistance this way seemed more practical. I used a blend of wood flour and WEST 407 for the filler for those seams and the flat spots. The fairing over the glass will be done with Quick Fair and hopefully it will be minimal. I'll be painting it with "some" Sys3 color and an HVLP sprayer.
I won't get as involved with fairing the inside. I think I'll be putting Dri-Deck tiles on the sole, so it won't be necessary to do much there. Seat tops will have to be smooth to go along with the pop-up cleats and flush mount rod holders.
I will have a lot of time consuming details to work on after flipping the next time. Gas tank mount, all glass wiring chase to the front deck, invisible foam flotation and other important creature comforts.
GK's D15
GK,
Not sure what you're planning for your wiring chase but mine worked out well. Here's what I did:
1.5 inch schd 40 PVC split lengthwise on a table saw. I then I cut it a little longer than the distance I needed it to fit in. I did this so it would have a natural bow to it. I drilled 4 holes in it and attached it temporarily with decking screws. I also put duct tape on the inside of the ends so I could fill the gap with glue. Then with pieces tape I glassed it in place around the screws. The next day I backed out these screws and glassed in the small pieces where they were. The end result was a fully glassed in piece that truely looks like it belongs in the boat. I had a few people not even notice that it was there and I had to point it out to them.
Here are a few pics:
Tim
Not sure what you're planning for your wiring chase but mine worked out well. Here's what I did:
1.5 inch schd 40 PVC split lengthwise on a table saw. I then I cut it a little longer than the distance I needed it to fit in. I did this so it would have a natural bow to it. I drilled 4 holes in it and attached it temporarily with decking screws. I also put duct tape on the inside of the ends so I could fill the gap with glue. Then with pieces tape I glassed it in place around the screws. The next day I backed out these screws and glassed in the small pieces where they were. The end result was a fully glassed in piece that truely looks like it belongs in the boat. I had a few people not even notice that it was there and I had to point it out to them.
Here are a few pics:
Tim
- gk108
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Tim,
Your chase tube is the one that inspired my idea. Mine just won't have the PVC core and it will be located higher up on the side. I took my clean PVC pipe, sprayed it with Pam cooking spray, wet a strip of 9 oz tape and spiral wrapped it with a generous overlap. After the epoxy set I cut the assembly in half lengthwise and peeled the fiberglass half-tubes off the PVC pipe. Now I have a fiberglass form to tape to the inside of the hull like you did. I'm placing mine higher on the side and angling it down to the rear a bit to keep it dry if I ship a bunch of water since both ends will be open under the seats.
GK
Your chase tube is the one that inspired my idea. Mine just won't have the PVC core and it will be located higher up on the side. I took my clean PVC pipe, sprayed it with Pam cooking spray, wet a strip of 9 oz tape and spiral wrapped it with a generous overlap. After the epoxy set I cut the assembly in half lengthwise and peeled the fiberglass half-tubes off the PVC pipe. Now I have a fiberglass form to tape to the inside of the hull like you did. I'm placing mine higher on the side and angling it down to the rear a bit to keep it dry if I ship a bunch of water since both ends will be open under the seats.
GK
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- gk108
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Tim,
I almost wrapped dry tape around the pipe, but then my brain engaged and I realized that the tape would absorb the spray and I'd have a mess instead of a tube. I've washed the parts with Dawn once and will do it again just to make sure that all oil is gone before proceeding.
Joel,
I still have another half that I might put on the other side to aesthetically balance the boat.
The added stiffness is another part of the reason that it will be close to midway up the panel. I like it any time I can use one structure to serve more than one purpose.
GK
I almost wrapped dry tape around the pipe, but then my brain engaged and I realized that the tape would absorb the spray and I'd have a mess instead of a tube. I've washed the parts with Dawn once and will do it again just to make sure that all oil is gone before proceeding.
Joel,
I still have another half that I might put on the other side to aesthetically balance the boat.
The added stiffness is another part of the reason that it will be close to midway up the panel. I like it any time I can use one structure to serve more than one purpose.
GK
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Well, my build has been slowed up a bit lately due to a little medical problem, but I'm getting back into things now, slowly.
I finally got both of my rubrail splices to hold and am waiting for the spray rail splices to cure.
Drew a line on the hull 17.5" down from the sheer for spray rail location.
Round 1 of fairing the bottom. WEST 407 plus some wood flour for filling in the biggest part of the low area between the skeg taping and the chine to be followed with a couple of rounds of quick fair. It looks like a lot, but the low spots were only about 2mm at the most.
Round 2 of fairing the transom. Quick fair is the greatest stuff. I have to work on my mixing technique, though. The four spots in a row on the right side of the pic are where I didn't get everything mixed and it remained soft. No problem. I'll just fill them on the final round.
I finally got both of my rubrail splices to hold and am waiting for the spray rail splices to cure.
Drew a line on the hull 17.5" down from the sheer for spray rail location.
Round 1 of fairing the bottom. WEST 407 plus some wood flour for filling in the biggest part of the low area between the skeg taping and the chine to be followed with a couple of rounds of quick fair. It looks like a lot, but the low spots were only about 2mm at the most.
Round 2 of fairing the transom. Quick fair is the greatest stuff. I have to work on my mixing technique, though. The four spots in a row on the right side of the pic are where I didn't get everything mixed and it remained soft. No problem. I'll just fill them on the final round.
Last edited by gk108 on Tue Jul 21, 2009 10:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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