gk108 wrote:ks8 wrote:When I taped outside I then had no worries that I'd accidentally flatten a *wet* filler corner as it was already cured and shaped permanently.
I'm pretty sure that's what happened on my D15. The bad part is that when you move the wet filler and make that flat spot the filler goes somewhere else and makes a little bump. I couldn't sand the bump out of the biax without weakening the seam, so ultimately I had to build up the quick fair to the level of the bump. It wasn't much but it could have been avoided.
Yes... exactly. Though I did sand through biax in a couple of small areas on the outside... but I also sheathed the hull entirely and so had, actually, in those places, at least two additional overlapping layers of 6 oz, and the biax was doubled on the inside (due to a confusion in the read of the notes as compared to the plans, now straightened out), so I did not panic so much when I went in or through the biax in a couple of small patches (approximately 1 inch by 2 inch was the largest). When doing an inside seam, you have gravity working with you somewhat, and the nature of the concave fillet. But you *can* shift stray filler on an outside corner back to where it belongs, with a squeegee technique. Inside corners are much easier to one still developing technique with the materials. And again, for a beginner (like myself) it is much easier (I think) to allow outside corners to cure first, then do a final shaping of them before taping, as this allows for a slower shaping rather than a stressed panic if filler begins hardening an ill shaped corner into permanence. As this was my first boat, the idea of the *much easier* method was appealing to say the least. My first hull fillets, on the inside, were not wet on wet. It wasn't until I began taping in frames that I began wet on wet... or maybe I began on the port chine? I don't recall exactly. But then I've been out in the sun all day and may soon see invisible pink elephants fly overhead.