This thread will be used to document the rebuilding of the flatback Aquasport. Once the project is complete, we will turn all the content into a static webpage.
To all the pictures we take (not all will be shown it the thread), check out the gallery......
http://gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=495
This entire thread has been condensed into a tutorial located at BBC help page. Here is the link...
http://boatbuildercentral.com/howto.php
end product....
Aquasport Rebuild - Classic "Flatback"
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Aquasport Rebuild - Classic "Flatback"
Last edited by tech_support on Thu Oct 23, 2008 9:34 am, edited 6 times in total.
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July 18, 2006
A little further along with the demo. A few things to share:
The stringers (not original) were laminated o the bottom with what looks like 18 oz roving. In several places it was possible to peel the glass back – see one of the below pictures. The secondary bond of the stringers to the hull was very poor. Also, the glass had separated from the stringer wood in all but a few spots.
We are going to take extra precaution to ensure the shape of the hull doesn’t change before we get new stringers and frames installed. Similar to pulling a brand new hull from a mold, unless there is some structure in the hull, it could “oil canâ€
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more pictures.... July25
After measuring diagonals from chine to shear to make sure the hull was square, we made a mold for the new transom. Its basically a dam for the new outside skin. The dam is made from Melanine which is secured to a lip of original fiberglass left around the transom. The melanine is coated with mold release wax and PVA. The clamps are only temporary until the dam is secured with screws.
Some small fillets of epoxy/woodflour are laid in followed by a layer of 6 oz cloth. This acts more like a skin coat and also makes a smoother surface for the 1708 Biaxial cloth.
A cardboard template of the inside transom is useful for cutting the 1708 to fit, and will later be used to cut the [url=http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetai ... cell_E2402]2â€
After measuring diagonals from chine to shear to make sure the hull was square, we made a mold for the new transom. Its basically a dam for the new outside skin. The dam is made from Melanine which is secured to a lip of original fiberglass left around the transom. The melanine is coated with mold release wax and PVA. The clamps are only temporary until the dam is secured with screws.
Some small fillets of epoxy/woodflour are laid in followed by a layer of 6 oz cloth. This acts more like a skin coat and also makes a smoother surface for the 1708 Biaxial cloth.
A cardboard template of the inside transom is useful for cutting the 1708 to fit, and will later be used to cut the [url=http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetai ... cell_E2402]2â€
Last edited by tech_support on Thu Jan 03, 2008 4:37 pm, edited 2 times in total.
You mention, in your tutorials, that when using epoxy as laminating resin, that it is mostly not necessary to use matt when laying up yet in this situation you are using 1708 which has matt with the biax. Why did you use 1708 and not just straight 17 oz biax cloth?
When you tab in the stringers will you also use 1708 or will you just use straight biax cloth for that?
When you tab in the stringers will you also use 1708 or will you just use straight biax cloth for that?
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rustnrot wrote:You mention, in your tutorials, that when using epoxy as laminating resin, that it is mostly not necessary to use matt when laying up yet in this situation you are using 1708 which has matt with the biax. Why did you use 1708 and not just straight 17 oz biax cloth?
When you tab in the stringers will you also use 1708 or will you just use straight biax cloth for that?
Excellent question We want to build some outside thickness for puncture resistance (foam doesnt have much by itself ) so the 24 oz total of mat on the outside is just added "bulk". On the inside skin you will see 17 and 12 oz biax without matt, some 45/45 adn 0/90 wil be used. If we used 1708 on the inside it would be a huge waste of epoxy for no added stiffness.
Just a rough estimate, there is probably 5 extra pound of resin in that mat now - thats about $25 in epoxy
Joel
OK, fair enough. If one were use marine ply instead of foam, could one skip the layers of matt on the 3 layers that will be going outside the foam? Or, to ask another way, would the lamination schedule be the same if one were to use plywood?
Would Greenwood XL treated boat ply be a good choice for a transom? I noticed that you used to stock it but no more. Reason?
Would Greenwood XL treated boat ply be a good choice for a transom? I noticed that you used to stock it but no more. Reason?
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For a wood core and epoxy, no mat. The lamination would be quite different for a wood transom.
We no longer sell/stock fir because the Meranti is much higher quality, and cost the same or less.
Would you mind starting a new thread on your boat? that way we can give specific answers for your boat.
Joel
We no longer sell/stock fir because the Meranti is much higher quality, and cost the same or less.
Would you mind starting a new thread on your boat? that way we can give specific answers for your boat.
Joel
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August 4
Bedding the transom core. The Transom core is [url=http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetai ... cell_E2402]Renicell E240 from DIAB, 2â€
Bedding the transom core. The Transom core is [url=http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetai ... cell_E2402]Renicell E240 from DIAB, 2â€
Last edited by tech_support on Tue Jan 08, 2008 3:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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