FS12 Build

[Amerville]

Good Job Joel, This will help everyone see what you are talking about when building a boat.

Thanks
Tom

[Dougster]

So, regarding covering the bottom in two pieces. I assume one must sand the part of the cloth that will overlap before putting on the second piece of cloth? I'm doing the LB22 and can't see being up to doing it all at once.

Got a cold and haven't done much all week Dougster

[tech_support]

Yes, you will want to hit the edge of any hardened glass with a rough grit paper or even a grinder. Otherwise, the hard edge will keep the next layer from transitioning smoothly over.

Don’t go crazy with the sander though, just remove rough spots where the glass over laps. If your overlapping biax over biax, then just sand down the stitching that stands proud (its not glass anyway), then your next layer will lay down nice and smooth

If you can manage wet on wet, then you don’t have to grind and the over lap will basically become invisible.

Joel

[tech_support]

More pictures at the gallery.

Next we lift the strongback and frames/stringers out of the hull.





Glass the inside (tape seams and wide cloth). Coat the plywood with epoxy. Give it at least 20 minutes to soak in before glassing. CUT THE TAPE AND GLASS TO FIT BEFORE PRE-COATING !



Lay a bead of fillet mix in the joint



Smooth it out with a fillet tool



Clean up the excess fillet material. Let fillets become firm before putting tape over top





Tape the seams, then wet out the wide cloth. Its easier to use 2 pieces of wide cloth with a small overlap in the center vs. one wide piece.

Once the inside hull laminations have hardened, put the strongback back into the boat. We will use this opportunity to mark the location of each frame in the boat. The strongback will also hold the stringers in the correct spot. “tack weldâ€

[dborecky]

Joel,

I have a quick few questions.

Should I put on the rub rail before putting fairing compound on the sides? I think I would get a better bond without fairing compund between it and the sides.

I noticed you did not put an additional running board along the keel like on the FS14 plans. Do I need to put that board down the keel? Do you think it will make that much difference in performance?

If I need to put the board, do I put it on before or after fairing?

Thanks,

Derrick

[tech_support]

Rub rails and keels are best attached before fairing.

Joel

[jacquesmm]

It is also a matter of personal preference. Like Jole, I prefer to install the rubrail first because it adds stiffness to the sides amking it easier to sand.
For the keel or skeg, I prefer to wait until the fairing is done.
It doesn't really matter.

[tech_support]

seat compartments primed. Helps to do this before gluing down casting deck and seats.



We are using some 1" sheet foam to block off the area under the rear casting deck that will be filled with pour foam (for flotation). If worked very well...

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[dborecky]

Joel,

I have sanded the whole bottom and sides in preparation to putting on the rub rail. I just need to sand the back of the transom. I did as you suggested and sanded the two back corners some as it was very thick there with all the layers. I did cut the rub rails with 1/4" Okume.

Two things.....

1. Do I need to clean off the surface after sanding or can I just start fairing and glueing on the rub rails? I did use a shop vac attached to the sander and that leaves less dust behind. I also used Siver Tip Epoxy. If I need to clean it off what should I use?

2. I noticed you did not add a skeg to your keel. Do you think it will run fine without it. It would be easier for me to not add one then to make one...

Thanks,

Derrick

[tech_support]

You should not need to do anything more than vacuum off the dust before putting on more quick fair or gluing rubrail material.

Make sure you place your rubrail strips so that the long section (8') starts at the bow. Basically you want the long and continuous piece to wrap around the part of the sheer with the most bend - makes a nice fair line that way