In your gallery one of the close ups almost had a look like some checking was going on.
Is this your first time working with Okoume? How do you like it so far..
GK's V10
- gk108
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Thanks, Steve. Plywood is Joubert from eboat. I played with nesting until I got crosseyed and can't come up with anything better than what the plans show. The cosmetics of it are not as serious as the strength and durability factors. V10 has some serious bends at the bow and that's right where one of the bad spots will end up. That gnarly grain turns a lot of open end grain up in the face and I worry about finish and decay resistance there.steve292 wrote:Where did you get it from? I had 8 sheets of 1/4, & there wasn't a blemish on them.Nice worksmanship on the Rudder BTW
Steve
I cut the frames and transom today.
CC, D15, V10
- gk108
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Got it! I drew out half of the bottom and cut it out, then used it to trace the other side, but didn't cut it. Then I looked at the whole situation for the side panels again and decided I couldn't figure out the original nesting on the plans either. I looked at it a while, got out the full size patterns and put them away again. Then I lined the plywood up end to end and just drew a panel complete. Looked like I had enough room to do it again, so I drew a reference line offset from the long edge and drew another one. It didn't collide with anything I'd already done and the bad spots are now several inches away from anything I'll use. It's still going to be tight and I'm pretty sure the only way this worked is because of the little extra length of the metric plywood.
CC, D15, V10
- gk108
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Stitched
This is why I bought the bendy stuff. It resisted my efforts for several hours, but I studied its movements and decided to put the screws to it. They just go into a 3" cleat hanging loose on the other side. I realized that most of the bend up in the bow is really twist. Tightening the screws provides twist in this area where there isn't much leverage. I left a ¼" gap rather than worry about drawing that little bit in.
Tacked
In some places it's more like filleted with small gaps at stitches.
The plans show a small camber on the bottom of frames 1&2 and I was able to pull most of that in as well.
This is why I bought the bendy stuff. It resisted my efforts for several hours, but I studied its movements and decided to put the screws to it. They just go into a 3" cleat hanging loose on the other side. I realized that most of the bend up in the bow is really twist. Tightening the screws provides twist in this area where there isn't much leverage. I left a ¼" gap rather than worry about drawing that little bit in.
Tacked
In some places it's more like filleted with small gaps at stitches.
The plans show a small camber on the bottom of frames 1&2 and I was able to pull most of that in as well.
CC, D15, V10
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Looking great! Now hold your breath as you snip.
On my CV16 bow transom, there was an area of such twist, that it would not stay without leaving a few pieces of the twisted stove wire embedded. I don't think anyone ever had that as a problem with a V10 or V12, so happy snipping!
Are you going to flip and fillet and glass the inside before shaping the chines and taping the outside? If so, maybe leave the stitches in until after the flip? Just a thought.
Keep those pictures coming!
On my CV16 bow transom, there was an area of such twist, that it would not stay without leaving a few pieces of the twisted stove wire embedded. I don't think anyone ever had that as a problem with a V10 or V12, so happy snipping!
Are you going to flip and fillet and glass the inside before shaping the chines and taping the outside? If so, maybe leave the stitches in until after the flip? Just a thought.
Keep those pictures coming!
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