Cape Man's Dory

[cape man]

It's official! The old skiff blew the repaired weld again this past weekend while scooting into Lake Ingraham, and the insurance has agreed to total it. Attached is a pic of the last sunset she will see off Cape Sable. Sad but she was a good boat for the price.

The OD 18 plans arrived today, and as soon as I can get everything off the old boat, they will salvage it and send a check which will be the bank account for this project. Have been following the progress of Cracker Larry's boat with great enthusiasm, and can't wait to get started. Hoping all of you will be as helpful with my project, because I know I'm going to need it.

(How do I attach a picture to this post?)

Cape Man (Craig)[/img]

[Cracker Larry]

Welcome Good choice I'll give you all the help I can, FWIW.

Cape Sable, my wife and I ran aground there one night, trying to get a charter sailboat into (I think) Shark River. Isn't that the river leading up to Everglades City?

To post a picture, first click on the link above to Builder Galleries. Create your gallery and upload the pics to there. Then you can link to them.

[cape man]

Cape Sable is the Southwest tip of Florida. Shark River is north of there, and has plenty of shoals to run aground on. There are three points on Cape Sable, all of which can stop a boat on a low tide, but sounds like you were north. The whole area is indeed the last of the truly lonely spots in south Florida. The boat I build has to make it there at least twice a year, be big enough to haul camp out, small enough to easily trailer and get back in the mangrove creeks, and fuel efficient enough to stay out a week with minimal refueling runs. The OD 18 appears to be the ticket. Have followed your thread, so was glad to see you responded to my post. As soon as I strip the old boat, I'll start on this one.

[cape man]

http://gallery.bateau2.com/index.php?cat=18985

Here's the pic I wanted to post. She was a good and trusted friend for 8 years and gave me safe passage in some tough conditions. I certainly got my money's worth, but she stood in the way of me building another boat. The salvage company hauled her off last week after I stripped everything I could, and she probably is being crushed and melted. Have a huge shindig next week for my father's 80th (don't anyone tell him!!!), so will try and get started in two weeks.

Looking forward to meeting some of you in Crystal River next month.

[Steven]

[cape man]

Opened a separate account for the project this am (this money is not for braces or groceries!) The plywood is ordered and should be here tomorow. My friend has a cabinet business and actually uses a lot of Okume 1088, so got a pretty good deal. We are going to cut the pieces out in his shop, as he is interested in building a boat as well depending on how my boat goes. Sweetest thing is I believe I can rope him into helping for the whole project. Before I go any further, wanted to just make sure I am straight on how to get the lines from the plans over to the ply wood. Read the tutorials which discuss using a batten or piece of PVC to "connect the dots" from the critical points outlined on the plans. Is this correct, or is there a more accurate way to transfer the lines, especially the curves in some of the panels? The PVC seems a bit crude and would allow for a lot of error given the rounded edge. Anyone have a suggestion on the best material to use as a batten?

My friend is used to having a more detailed discription and cutting a defined radius between A & B (or C, D, E etc.). I am trusting that gaps between panels are not a huge issue, and can easily be filled with epoxy glue.

[jacquesmm]

The PVC batten method is accurate enough for our material.
Old boat plans had to be lofted and were a lot less accurate than our method.

Gaps are required in our method: do not try to get tight fits please.
See this:
http://bateau2.com/content/view/45/28/

[gk108]

Your cabinetmaker friend will probably have a hard time with the gaps in the glue joints, but you need them to get the best results with epoxy. This is the offcut from the daggerboard hole in the bottom of the V10 I'm building.

It's ¼" plywood and the gap is about half that. The epoxy is different than cabinetmaking glues and works with the glass to provide a joint that is way stronger than just wood and glue. Uneven stresses between the panels joined will be evenly distributed along the joint.

[cape man]

Thanks. Am printing these and the tutorial. The attached picture is extremely illustrative. I am much more comfortable.

The latest issue is the 1/4" sheets I ordered were changed to 3/16". Is the loss of a sixteenth going to effect the strength significantly or how any of the panels come together? The company says they no longer carry 1/4" and everything they sell is 3/16" (?)

[jacquesmm]

That's a little thin but the problem can easily be solved: fiberglass the outside with one layer of 9 oz. woven glass.