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GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 4:25 pm
by bernd1
Hi @ all,
here are my first pictures of my GF16.
http://gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=804
I hope to glue and glass soon.
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:06 pm
by AD16 The Opportunist
! Time to mix some 'poxy...
Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:23 pm
by comfyoldshoe
Bernd,
Didn't you start out to build an FS17? Why did you change your mind?
The boat looks great so far!
Mike
Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:12 pm
by topwater
Bernd looking real good
You see it wasnt as hard as you thought
Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 6:33 am
by bernd1
comfyoldshoe wrote:Bernd,
Didn't you start out to build an FS17? Why did you change your mind?
The boat looks great so far!
Mike
Mike you are right - first I wanted to build a FS17 then decided to build a easier boat to get practise - the GF16 was my choice.
I also thought about the FS14 as my first building - but the GF6 is it at least.
But don't be sad the plywood for the FS17 is stocked in my friends wood shed.
I ordered 10 sheets of 10mm 10sheets of 6mm and 3 sheets of 12mm.
At the moment 3 sheets of 12mm and 4 sheets of 6mm are used for the GF16.
Believe, once a day you will hear from my FS17 - but not yet.
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 3:20 pm
by mecreature
that GF16 is a sweet boat. Looks like you are well under way.
Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 3:41 pm
by tech_support
looks good
I think you have plenty of experience for any one of our designs
Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:07 pm
by bernd1
Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 11:05 pm
by robbiro
Bernd,
I am going to have to get busy, or you and Larry will both beat me to getting the new boats in the water. You are doing a great job and just enjoy the experience of building and hanging out with this great group of builders. I have never failed to get a good answer to a question and to get a pat on the back when I needed it.
Keep on Buildin'
Robbie
Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 6:48 am
by bernd1
robbiro wrote:Bernd,
I am going to have to get busy, or you and Larry will both beat me to getting the new boats in the water. You are doing a great job and just enjoy the experience of building and hanging out with this great group of builders. I have never failed to get a good answer to a question and to get a pat on the back when I needed it.
Keep on Buildin'
Robbie
...I know, the crew here is really good - the best board I ever visited in the Internet.
For me the best motivation to keep on building - but one step after another step, I don't like to work in hurry....only with a normal speed.
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:53 pm
by robbiro
Bernd,
I started my GF-16 in May of 2006 and I am not finished yet. I will get back on her after I finish a D-5 that was done for my children's school fund raising auction. I am to the point of putting on runners (strakes) and spray rails, then fairing.
Keep on Buildin'
Robbie
Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:10 pm
by bernd1
robbiro wrote:Bernd,
I started my GF-16 in May of 2006 and I am not finished yet. I will get back on her after I finish a D-5 that was done for my children's school fund raising auction. I am to the point of putting on runners (strakes) and spray rails, then fairing.
Keep on Buildin'
Robbie
.....don't hurry - you do not have to win a race. The result of your building is the most important thing, and I think you want to have a pretty boat.....so keep on working in the speed you like.
If I feel sometimes powerless I stop working on the boat - the danger to make mistakes is to high.
As said before step by step - we have time enough - it is our hobby.
Bye
Bernd
First time mixing epoxy - next step to my GF16
Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 2:34 pm
by bernd1
Hi @ all,
this afternoon the outside temperature was 20°C - perfect to do my first epoxy job.
I wanted to put my FG-splice to the side panels.
I started to mix epoxy. 2 parts of resin (100ml) and one part of hardener (50ml).
I mixed it well (about 2 minutes). I satured the panels and gave 20 minutes time to soak in.
Well, I saw that I had mixed too much epoxy - but no problem I just sature the transom and the first clamping board.
After that I started to wet out the first FG splice - It worked well.
At the second panel my brush started to become more and more sticky -shit.
I stopped with this cup and brush and mixed again a new one (150ml epoxy).
I wetted out the second FG splice - it was hard work because the old epoxy on it was very sticky -but I didn't gave up.
Look here at the left side -what do you think ?:
A few minutes later I saw that on part of the side panel raised a few - so air is under it.
Look here to the right side:
What do you mean? Should I drill a hole in it after curing and fill it with epoxy?
Well, I had lot of epoxy over - I pick up my cotton flocks bag and created some glue to stick the transom and the first clamping board together.
I layed some weights on it ( about 50kg) -no epoxy squeezed out - is this good?
After all work was done I took a look to the thermometer- what a bad weather.
Do you think the epoxy will cure if the temperature falls until 10°C?
(I hope it doesn't matter -only a longer time to cure)
Bye
Bernd
Re: First time mixing epoxy - next step to my GF16
Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 4:08 pm
by davidtx
Bernd,
You don't need to wait 20 minutes after applying resin to the panel before wetting the glass. Some folks just lay the glass on a dry panel and wet from the top. I've done both and like wetting the panel first, then applying the resin on top. If I've done the conversion correctly, you should use about 100 ml per meter for 6" 12 oz biax (1 oz per foot). I've started doing this calculation on all my glass work. It helps you judge how much to pre-measure. If doing a big job, I'll break it down into smaller pieces and check my glue usage to make sure I'm not using too much.
From what I can see in your pictures, you could either grind the bubble out and re-coat with epoxy or drill a hole and use a syringe to inject epoxy in it. I've used the first approach if the glass is "high" - otherwise you'll have problem fairing the area. I used the second approach for some hull seams where the fillet was low and the glass was fair.
I've used slow hardener for everything so far. The brushes stay useable for a long time.
-david
Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 4:14 pm
by Boomer
You can do that. The easier, more manly way (because you get to use more power tools), which will give a better repair is to grind it out, and epoxy over it. You can put a small piece of glass as a patch, but it really won't make that much difference.
On the temp thing, if you can introduce just a little heat, even from a light bulb, it will help speed and complete the cure. Put the bulb on the floor underneath the piece to be cured.
10 deg. C shouldn't be a problem.
Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 5:24 pm
by Daddy
Bernd, 10 C sounds like a dream to me, very cold where I am working and by now you have seen that the epoxy cured nicely at that temp. Another way to make splices so that a corner does not lift is to make the splice as you did, then put a layer of visquine or poly film over it, lay a scrap of plywood over that and put your weights on top of the scrap (make sure the poly film covers all of the wet epoxy). Flattens out the tape and leaves less sanding.
Daddy
Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 6:44 pm
by Boomer
Following up on Daddy's suggestion, I'm assuming that one of the advances of American civilization that has made its way to Germany is the zip lock bag (Glad Bag).
If you take a large one -- a gallon for us -- and fill it full of water, it makes very nice weight and the plastic keeps everything nice and smooth. Makes a nice splice.
Posted: Thu May 01, 2008 1:18 pm
by bernd1
Hi,
thanks for all your suggestions - the zip lock bag sounds good.
I will do my best in future.
By the way, I checked this evening the left-over of my epoxy glue (mixed with cotton) in the cup and found out that the glue wasn't as hard as the left-over of the epoxy in the first cup.
It feels more elastic. I hope my clamping board is strong enough glued to my transom (I don't want to loose it ......no submarine building)
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 6:44 am
by bernd1
Daddy wrote:Bernd, 10 C sounds like a dream to me, very cold where I am working and by now you have seen that the epoxy cured nicely at that temp. Another way to make splices so that a corner does not lift is to make the splice as you did, then put a layer of visquine or poly film over it, lay a scrap of plywood over that and put your weights on top of the scrap (make sure the poly film covers all of the wet epoxy). Flattens out the tape and leaves less sanding.
Daddy
.....Daddy it worked well -thanks !
I only have now the font of the deepfreezing bag onto the FG splice (the white areas)
Bye
Bernd
PS: Outside at my home 20°C
Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 12:49 pm
by Daddy
Glad that it worked Bernd.
Daddy
Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 4:51 pm
by AD16 The Opportunist
Hi Bernd, for bigger areas you can use the yellow bags for recyclable materials we commonly have at home here in Germany... cheaper than deepfreezing bags...........
PS.
Sorry for the Spam mails... problem solved (F....ng Chinese sellers)
Posted: Sun May 04, 2008 5:02 am
by bernd1
Hi Carlo,
don't mention about the spam mail - I thought it was by oversight.
Until yet I haven't order something
.
The yello bag is a good idea
I think I have to visit the town hall to pick up a package.
I hope the the font of the yellow bag does not mirror onto my boat - otherwise people throw rubbish in it.
Explanation:
The yellow bags in Germany are especially for plastic rubbish to recycle it.
Bye
Bernd
Playing with card board.....sometimes a crazy thing ...
Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 5:23 pm
by bernd1
I played with card board and wanted to throw away....when were was a idea....
a center console build with card board......just to have a look..
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 5:27 pm
by AD16 The Opportunist
!!!
Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 6:31 am
by bernd1
.....the rubrail stripes are in place....the third layer is glued.....
I had to secure the stripes with drywall screw because the stripes slided away - perhaps of too liquid glue/ resin.
I needed about 6 hours per one layer for both sides - one layer per side was 3-4 stripes.
The time is calculated :
- mixing epoxy (always 75ml a batch)
- coating each side and each stripe
- making glue with the left over
- cover the stripes
- mixing the next epoxy / glue
- cover stripes
- install the left side
- secure with screws
- taking away the too much glue
....and so on
For a first time builder I can recommend only to make one side a time -otherwise you are in hurry like I'am.
Bye
Bernd[/img]
Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 10:35 am
by Boomer
Bernd:
You look like you already have the wind in your face.
What a good clean build.
Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 2:20 pm
by bernd1
Boomer wrote:
Bernd:
You look like you already have the wind in your face.
What a good clean build.
....Thanks, in my dreams I see it sometimes floating....and during building I make sometimes jokes or other funny things - so the building becomes not boring - my wife and kids sometimes shake their heads....but thats me
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 9:40 am
by bernd1
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 3:50 am
by bernd1
Here I'am at the moment,
- hatches mid seat installed (little work to do)
- all inside glassed, bottom double
- all inside sanded (what a work)
- tubes for electric and fuel dry installed
- box for the anchor designed and nearly finished
- box for the bilge pump designed and 50% finished
- backing plate for the bow eye installed
- reinforcements for mid seat and rear seat cut and glassed
- drain hole cut and epoxy filled
......the edges and corners are very strong - I think I overlapped too much - if you knock there it sounds like stainless steel......little bit overbuild
....hope the temperature will stay the next time until 15°C to keep on working....
I decided to do all inside work included painting job before flipping the hull for outside glassing - or don't you recommend it?
bye
Bernd
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 5:19 am
by AD16 The Opportunist
Hi Bernd!!! I was off for a couple of weeks, but I'm following your progresses.... of course you can finish the interior before to flip the hull
I hope too for a loooong autumn with mild temperatures... but you know.. we have only two seasons in Germany: cold with leaves an cold without leaves
PS. thanks for the link...
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 7:29 am
by bernd1
Hi Carlo,
nice to hear you - about the temperature ....I tested a gas heater to have a comfortable temp. in my shed and it worked well.
Unfortunately I read about problems if you use a propane gas heater and wet epoxy - the burned gas could create a layer with unburned hydrocarbon on the surface and prevent the curing.
Until yet I had no problem - I'm happy. At my filling station they sell 11kg gas for about 24€.
Last sunday I was at the "Interboot " in Friederichshafen /Bodensee. Nice to see all the manufacturers of boats and engines. The engines (4 stroke) are very expensive .
For example a Mercury 50PS costs about 6700€ - that is a lot.
I talked with a few smaller manufacturer about the material they use and was very surprised as they said that they use polyester instead of epoxy.
They told me that epoxy is too expensive - but a real good material - they confirmed me to be on a good way in this kind of building.
They all told me not to use a wood core - they used a foam core.
The only mistake I did was to have no camera with me to shot some pictures.
Have a nice day.....
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:24 am
by Gramps
Bernd it is looking great! I have one question though, can you Americanize "11kg of gas"? Does kg mean kilogram? Haha this yankee needs help!
Most all of the manuf. here use vinylester or polyester resin and foam. Not many in the US know vinyl & poly are subpar resins but sooo many folks here have the Foam is Bad! attitude...
Keep going Bernd!
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:55 am
by Cracker Larry
Unfortunately I read about problems if you use a propane gas heater and wet epoxy - the burned gas could create a layer with unburned hydrocarbon on the surface and prevent the curing.
Propane won't cause this problem, it is a clean fuel. But kerosene or fuel oil will.
Gramps, I think 11 KG is something comparable to the 20 lb. propane tanks in the states.
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:01 am
by Gramps
Ah thanks Larry! Was thinking Bernd was talking about gasoline/petrol.
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 11:56 am
by Murry
Hello Bernd,
My name is Daniel and I've been following your build from Virginia, U.S.
Your gf is looking great. I'll be starting on mine at the end of October and I can't wait to start cutting.
Your hatch cutouts look very nice at the middle seat by the way and I'm looking forward to seeing your anchor storage box idea as well.
Referenceing your pictures, It looked like you completely glassed the seat frames on the inside and out. I was wondering if the plans called for this or if you just wanted to make it stronger. It seems like the lamination schedules can be confusing based on all the lamination questions that are generated as folks are building. I just wanted make sure that I read the plans correctly.
Thanks Bernd,
Daniel
I hope it's O.K. that I've asked this question on your post Bernd. Please let me know if it isn't.
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 5:22 pm
by AD16 The Opportunist
Unfortunately I read about problems if you use a propane gas heater and wet epoxy - the burned gas could create a layer with unburned hydrocarbon on the surface and prevent the curing
.
The secondary product of burned propane gas is water damp.... take care about high humidity... is also not a good thing with epoxy
They all told me not to use a wood core - they used a foam core.
Don't care about this: as Jacques always writes, his boats are Epoxy/glass composites... the wood (ply) core is only for the shape, not structural (not always)
Think only that not all commercial or factory boats are built on a foam core, most are simply laminated on a female mold, certainly not with epoxy... with vinylester resin or better almost always with cheap polyester resin...much less strong than epoxy....
Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 2:31 pm
by bernd1
Hi Carlo,
I overconfidence Jaques and his method of building/ his plans.
I also know that epoxy is the better resin and the polyester is a question of costs - with all its disadvantages.
I like to work with epoxy - I never want to work with polyester resin.
By the way, if you travel sometime to Italy by car and using the A8 highway just call me on my mobile and take a visit to me - I 'am 10 minutes away from the A8.
Good luck at your building !
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 3:16 pm
by bernd1
Murry wrote:Hello Bernd,
My name is Daniel and I've been following your build from Virginia, U.S.
Your gf is looking great. I'll be starting on mine at the end of October and I can't wait to start cutting.
Your hatch cutouts look very nice at the middle seat by the way and I'm looking forward to seeing your anchor storage box idea as well.
Referenceing your pictures, It looked like you completely glassed the seat frames on the inside and out. I was wondering if the plans called for this or if you just wanted to make it stronger. It seems like the lamination schedules can be confusing based on all the lamination questions that are generated as folks are building. I just wanted make sure that I read the plans correctly.
Thanks Bernd,
Daniel
I hope it's O.K. that I've asked this question on your post Bernd. Please let me know if it isn't.
Hi Daniel,
I use my old but reliable 25HP Mariner on my GF16 - this was the reason to change some things in building. I changed the following:
- bottom double glassed
- 3 clamping boards glued on the transom
- transom bow/ stern double taped
- outside of the frames glassed with 400gr biax
- inside of the mid seat, rear seat and foredeck glassed with 160gr. cloth (my thinking was to have a better wood protection during pushing tackle in the seats)
- I didn't want to have a flexing bottom
at the outside I will do the following things:
- bottom double glassing
- transoms twice laying the tape
Tips / hints:
Use the recommended plywood - no cheap trash. Use marinepoxy you can buy here - I'm satisfied with it.
If I would build the GF again I would do the building as following:
- cut everything - use a small circular saw for the curves of the side panels - Larry gave me this hint - you create nice curves.
- then build a flat jig on level (believe me it saves a lot of time to correct errors and I wouldn't do it without it - I highly recommend this).
If you do it in this way you have a 100% flat bottom in further building
- draw a centerline on your jig and draw also a centerline on every frame ; without exception - it helps you in further steps
- install the mid seat frames on your jig with metal brackets after you made all your cuts .. for example drain holes tubes for fuel, electric and so on- now you have your hands free to install the side panels with screws - but do not tighten it too much
- then you install your transom on the jig
- now you twist one side panel a time to screw it to the transom - your hands are free !
- don't forget to use a underbody at the bow part of the side panels
(don't be afraid to use a few stitches to hold the bow transom between the side panels)
- install a slat on the centerline on your jig close to the bow transom
- twist the side panels until the centerline on your bow transom meets the centerline on your slat.
- check the diagonals with lines
- install the other frames and check the diagonal and symmetry of the whole boat
- if everything is correct then glue the side panels to the transoms -not earlier - I made the mistake and glued the side panels to the transoms before and got a error with my right sidepanel/ symmetry - I don't wish nobody to have the same trouble.
Please don't glue the sidepanels to the transoms before you checked the symmetry -believe me !!!!!
..and please take look that the sidepanels rest on the flat jig - this will save a lot of time and nerve.
If you have any questions let me know I will help you as much as I can - I was also happy as other builders here helped me......like Cracker Larry, Tim Oubre , Jaques , Shine and a lot of more of them.....
Have a good start on your building and enjoy it !
If I could do it you can it also -and don't be afraid of mixing your first batch of epoxy - it is easier as you think. Use marinepoxy - it is idiot proofed with 2:1 ratio - I never had amine blush - I like it.
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 6:31 am
by AD16 The Opportunist
bernd1 wrote:
By the way, if you travel sometime to Italy by car and using the A8 highway just call me on my mobile and take a visit to me - I 'am 10 minutes away from the A8.
Is not my usual route, but is not longer than mine... I drive through the A3 and the A9 'til München usually , Who knows?
Send me your phone number, I'll try to come
Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 12:39 pm
by Murry
Bernd,
Thank You so much for the advice and great detail with your lamination schedule choices. It's clear that you take great pride in your work and you also care about future builders. Thank you Bernd. I will be taking your advice, and I will not be glueing the transoms before knowing that the hull is symmetrical.
I am also planning to build on some type of frame to ensure that my bottom will be flat. I learned about that from Cracker Larry and Boomer through reading your build Bernd. So thanks again for posting very good details.
Sorry it took so long to respond, I have been out of town.
Daniel
Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 1:51 pm
by bernd1
Daniel,
it doesn't matter - we all have sometimes to work (earn money)
.
If there are any questions let us know -we do our best.
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 5:04 am
by AD16 The Opportunist
Got your phone N°
I cannot promise I'm coming, but I'll try...
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 12:06 pm
by bernd1
...update - I didn't sleep the last days.....
marks for the spray rail
backing plates for lights, rod holdes bow eye, anchor box
my seat tops with the access / hatches - wide enough for 25 litres tank
rear seat with pump box, mounting plate for bilge pump, switch - panel as reinforcement while installing my 25Hp
switch/ pump plates
midseat with backing plates for rod holders, panel as reinforcement while large hatches - to support the seat top during I'm standing on it
front deck with access for anchor box
my wife didn't believe me to install al that hardware....
......
Bernd
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 1:04 pm
by Cracker Larry
Beautiful work Bernd
Your German perfectionism is showing
I like it
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 3:53 pm
by mecreature
that is very nice work.. everything is so clean....
this boat has to be the best bang for the buck of all these designs.
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 4:10 pm
by AD16 The Opportunist
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:43 pm
by ks8
All that hardware?
She's looking very nice and clean Bernd. More pics of those details as they get installed....
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 9:03 pm
by Murry
Very nice work Bernd
Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 9:19 pm
by Aripeka Angler
The boat is looking very nice
Bernd, great job. Keep up the good work
Richard
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 4:23 am
by bernd1
Thanks !
Unfortunately the temperature here goes down more and more......I think I have to stop working at the boat.
Winter time is boring - especially in this season I have a lot of time.....most time for boat building - unfortunately bad temperature.
I try to do as much I can the next days - after that I make a big break.
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:37 am
by topwater
bernd why couldn't you heat youre work space?
i wouldnt want to lose all that work time.
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:38 am
by Cracker Larry
And fast hardener
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 7:37 am
by bernd1
....I'am afraid of errors in the laminate......the next steps are fairing and painting inside and then glassing the whole outside.
About temperature......in my opinion I should have a few hours the right temperature that all the epoxy cures perfect.
Fast hardener would be a possibility, but if the temperature increases the fast hardener is for large areas too fast for me
I'm working hard for a solution
- until yet the medium hardener was the right to work with for me.
...to heat the work space.....let me see
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 12:21 pm
by ks8
Even if the heat isn't enough to kick the epoxy, it may help keep dew from forming on the partially cured epoxy. Don't want dew if it can be avoided. I learned the hard way. A heater will help dry out the air (electric). Propane heater will make it (humidity) worse. Enjoy!
Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 7:14 am
by bernd1
....time for update
Is this boat building weather ?
Reinforcement for my clamps - I glue the plates at the boat
Here I made a big mistake......I glued the metric screws and nuts in and thought I could later drill them out.......
epoxy is strong....bad idea...
Here you see the place there the nuts are glued in
......Metric screws M4 glued to mount the pump and switch
....for my hatch to keep it as dry as possible.....
.....it was additional work - hope it is worth
a lot of backing plate for clamps, rod holders, light
.....reinforcement for my access of the bilge pipe
......anchor storage
...... a lot of additional work in small steps.....it costs a lot of time.....
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 7:31 am
by AD16 The Opportunist
bernd1 wrote:....time for update
...... a lot of additional work in small steps.....it costs a lot of time.....
That's what makes "Your boat" a piece of art and an unicate
I'm working from more than a year only on such small steps...
Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 9:58 am
by Boomer
If you have access to a soldering iron, or a small gas torch, (the little ones that use butane packs), and heat up the screws, it will break the epoxy bond and you can remove them. You can get the screws very hot without damaging the wood.
Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 10:10 am
by mecreature
Looking real good. great prep work.. wish I had your foresight. All these well documented builds sure help..
great tip boomer
Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 12:21 pm
by Murry
Looking very good Bernd.
You have alot of good ideas and your work is beautiful.
Daniel
Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:37 pm
by bernd1
Thanks gentlemen !
...@ Boomer - you gave me a idea - I will solve this problem with electric current.
The idea is to use the screw as a conductor - in this case the point of the highest resistance - heat comes up....I will check it.
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 10:17 am
by bernd1
......some evidence that I'm still working at the boat...although the temperature is bad.....
I checked that the hinge joints fit well - I coated the edges of my hatches and prepared almost everything to be ready for the fairing compound/ primer.
The hatches gave me a lot of work - I learned a lot for future building.
Although the temperatures are bad I used some heater in my sheed to have temp. about 10°C. The industrial powerhouse is happy today......
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 10:37 am
by cape man
looking sharp Berndt. Stay warm! Like the hatches. Good job.
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 10:39 am
by Cracker Larry
That looks great Bernd
You do nice work! I know those hatches were a lot of trouble, but you will sure have plenty of storage. Did you decide not to install any foam floatation?
Where is the spray rail
I see you made some backing plates for the ends like I did
Temp isn't great here either. Raining too
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 12:28 pm
by Fonda@kauai
Looking good Bernd. The custom hatches look premium. Let's here it for german engineering
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 1:06 pm
by ks8
At this rate, you will be ready to finish up in spring (?), having the final parts ready to laminate when you get your temperatures. Looking great!
Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 5:54 am
by bernd1
Thanks to you for motivation !
A lot of things I have to owe your hints and notes - Special thanks to Larry for his efforts in all questions of boat building - he gave me a lot of ideas.
There are many communities at the www - but I never found a comparable
one like this.
Everybody helps and there are no bad words between the users - it is exemplary.
I would like to meet you at the annual boat builder meeting - unfortunately I'm too far away.
Bye
Bernd
Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:32 am
by cape man
I would like to meet you at the annual boat builder meeting - unfortunately I'm too far away.
The Euro goes a long ways in Crystal River Florida, and we are really glad to get them!
How else are we going to pay for our boats?
Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 6:06 pm
by Cracker Larry
Come on over Bernd. You can fly into Atlanta, take the shuttle to Savannah, I'll pick you up and you can ride down with me
Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 7:08 pm
by Murry
Inspiring work Bernd, the entire boat looks fantastic especially the hatches
Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 12:04 pm
by ks8
Hello Bernd,
A comment about trailering, based on what you posted to Cracker Larry's thread...
There is a picture somewhere in the galleries where one of these types of boats, with rollers on the trailer, had a *road incident*, and the roller punched right through the bottom of the hull. That doesn't mean these boats are weak. It means that trailer wasn't the best choice, at least not having the roller in that position on the bottom of the hull, because of the point loading. With a small flat bottom boat, bunks will distribute the loads of trailering much better. And she will likely slide right off. If you already have a roller trailer, it is not that it won't work, but it is not necessary for that boat, and more rollers will mean better trailer trauma distribution and protection on the hull. Less rollers will make even larger loads at those points and increase the risk of damage. Try to position rollers (if you use them) under frame and stringer positions in the hull's structure instead of in the middle of a hull bottom panel span, and then you should be fine with a roller trailer.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 3:12 am
by AD16 The Opportunist
C'mon Bernd!!! Show us some progress
.... 22°C yesterday in Recklinghausen
...very strange for Northern Germany , specially before Easter... I hope the temps are good by you too, time to sand, prime and paint if you want your boat splashed
the "monster" is waiting for you in the quiet waters of Po river!!!
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 6:33 am
by bernd1
Hi Carlo,
yesterday we had 18°C - enough for use the primer inside my seats and foredeck -today I plan to use the white paint inside these compartments.
Pictures?....yes, I made some but at the moment I'm too busy .
I hope the temperatures will be over 15°C to keep on working.
By the way, I visit Italy in the first week of june .....I'm not sure if the boat will be finished until this date-......I enjoy the building
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 7:56 am
by Murry
Glad to hear the temperature is climbing for you Bernd.
Priming and painting inside the compartments. Your compartments may endup looking better than my entire boat.
What paint are you going with inside those compartments? and have you decided on an exterior color, yet.
I'm leaning towards a cream or pale yellow for the hull and an off-white for the rub rail and inside the boat.
It won't be long now.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 9:55 am
by bernd1
Hi Daniel,
the whole inside white, the outside like this:
http://bateau.com/boats/CS23/index.html
.... and the bottom with epoxy graphite, the sprayrail white.....thats the plan at the moment.
First I wanted to have a dark blue - but they told me about the problems of heat and printing of the cloth through the epoxy.
I think your launch is earlier as mine (unfortunately the fishing season starts at 1. april ):D
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 2:05 pm
by AD16 The Opportunist
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 3:42 pm
by bernd1
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Apr 06, 2009 10:24 pm
by Murry
Looks great Bernd, it's good to see you building again.
What did you use for paint?
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 2:37 am
by bernd1
Hi Daniel,
I used the epoxy primer and the paint from a german manufacturer
Here is the epoxy primer:
http://www.epiform.de/shop/show_product ... 06c28700d1
Here is the paint:
http://www.epiform.de/shop/show_product ... ucts_id=72
The colour chart:
http://www.epiform.de/ablage/1739622.htm
The advantage of this manufacturer is fast shipping and best price for high quality products - other german builders in at a german website told me. They were right - to work with the primer and paint was very easy.
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 2:55 pm
by bernd1
...okay, next round....
seat tops and foredeck are glued and everything is glassed with 400gr biaxial cloth.
Today I dry installed my 25HP Mariner - my girls had fun with it - they took a dry ride with the boat in my garage.
....some progress...
Well, it is time for sanding the glassed areas - I hope to flip the boat this week to do all outside work
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 4:03 pm
by Murry
Looks Great Bernd,
I bet it's solid now!
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 4:08 pm
by bernd1
...solid as a rock....
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 4:25 pm
by AD16 The Opportunist
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 4:30 pm
by Cracker Larry
solid as a rock....
If you think it's solid now, just wait until the outside is glassed
Really nice work Bernd!
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 3:36 am
by bernd1
@ Carlo,
I hope so - that the boat touches the water this summer.....
@ Larry,
thanks ! Well, you know I have a experienced boat builder here at the message board who helped me a lot and gave me a lot of hints (you know him.....he lives in Georgia
)
Thanks again!
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:57 am
by bernd1
...okay, last evening I flipped with friends th boat to start the outside work.
This morning I checked the bottom for unevenness an noticed that I have unfortunately a few areas where the bottom isn't straight at all.
Please look to the pictures:
What would you recommend to me to do first?
For example:
1. tapping all outside seams
2. glassing the bottom included the transoms and side panels
3. fairing the bottom with fairing compound and then glueing runners and spray rail
or is it better
to glue the runners and spray rail first to have a better bond - but the other problem with this work first is a more difficult fairing (I think)
Information: My supplier told me that I could make the fairing compound about 1inch thick to fill out some unevenness - it is a kind of powder to mix with marinepoxy.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 9:16 am
by TomW
Bernd you shouldn't have to make the fairing compound that thick I don't see any major problems, looks like a pretty normal bottom. Use thin coat to build up the low spots to the high spots, the proper order is:
1. Fill seams with filet material
2. Cover seams with fiberglass tape
3. Cover bottom with fiberglass cloth
4. Fair bottom
5. Put on your runners, rubrail can be put on anytime and neatly faired up to and blended it to sides. If you use Quik Fair put on runners before fairing.
I like to use a 12" wide spatula to spread the fairing compound so I cover the low spots without pulling any out of them while riding on the high spots. Have fun remember if you put to much on you have to sand it off with the fairing boards.
Tom
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 9:52 am
by bernd1
Tom,
thanks for your fast answer/ help.
I keep on working......
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 10:04 pm
by Murry
Looks good to me Bernd. Looks like the bottom is flat from the rear midseat frame to the transom, which is where it counts.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 1:05 pm
by bernd1
...okay, you want pictures?
Here they are:
I filled the gaps between side panel and bottom panel with epoxy/ cotton flock mix - after it cured I rounded all edges and corners..
Yesterday evening I started to lay the tape all around the chine and transoms - I used one layer though I use a 25HP engine.
My opinion is that the double cloth I lay in future gives enough strength - any doubts?
.....hope to glass the bottom soon.....
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 1:33 pm
by Murry
Yesterday evening I started to lay the tape all around the chine and transoms - I used one layer though I use a 25HP engine.
My opinion is that the double cloth I lay in future gives enough strength - any doubts?
No doubts here Bernd. It'll be plenty strong
Very nice and clean.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:10 pm
by BassMunn
Nice clean work.
Keep the pictures coming
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 5:17 pm
by Pat4
Lookes good Bernd!!!
Super job!
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 9:39 pm
by Dougster
Man you're good. I like that 'glass setup over the boat, with the roll ready to pull off and cut. Did you make that?
Wants to know how people work so clean Dougster
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 4:01 am
by bernd1
Dougster wrote:Man you're good. I like that 'glass setup over the boat, with the roll ready to pull off and cut. Did you make that?
Wants to know how people work so clean Dougster
Hi Dougster,
yes, I did it in this way - but you have to be careful while pulling the cloth. If you pull to strong, the cloth becomes longer and hasn't the structure as it should have any more. I twisted the bar who goes through the roll.
Clean work can sometimes be obstructively .....you waste time
. But sometimes it saves time
BTW: Patrick, did you install a rocket at your FS14
Your boat moves very fast.....I just can say :" Fasten your seat belt we are ready for take off"
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 12:37 am
by Cracker Larry
any doubts?
None
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 10:56 am
by ks8
Looking good! Yes, tell us what you think once all the glass is on and cured. Any doubts?
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 3:35 pm
by Pat4
Rocket
No! Nice engine Yeah!
but a bit overpowered sometimes.
38 miles on GPS. 29 knots on my new speedometer. The real speed somewhere in between
But pretty fast... Alone 29 knts, 2 adults and 2 children 25 knts.
Very nice job you´re doing!! looks great!
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 4:00 pm
by bernd1
Okay,
yesterday I glassed the whole outside in one shot with my wife's help. She did a very good job - she laminated as a world champion - thanks to her.
Don't forget that we used medium harder for all that work at 19C (66,2F) temperature.
A view from the bow :
A view from the transom edge/corner (overlapped .....with the tape....3 layers..at the corner 4)
The glassed bottom - I made a mistake and used the marks for my runners for overlapping - I think there is now plenty enough
(about 16 inch
)
The bottom:
Would you lay a tape over the cuts? Or isn't it important?
Well, the problems......I have some air pockets at the chine while glassing the second layer - damned !
What is the best to do now - to eliminate these failures? To sand out and fill with epoxy+woodfill/cotton flocks?
The side panels:.....one question: Had you also to give a cut that the cloth could lay perfect - I had to give 3 cuts -maybe my problem because I glassed from transom to bow transom with one fabric. The first in the middle and the second overlapped in the middle.
Bow-side-cut:
Side panel cuts:
Finally the drawing how I glassed the outside:
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 5:01 pm
by AD16 The Opportunist
Great progress, Bernd
!!!
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 6:53 pm
by steve292
Bernd,
If the air bubbles are small,say 15-20mm, just sand them out, & fill with epoxy putty.
Nice job, very clean. The big overlap on the bottom will give you lots of abrasion resistance as well.
Steve
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 10:46 pm
by ks8
If there were no air bubbles in the *tape* layer, then you have a good strong seam on the chine. If the air bubbles were throughout all three layers in those spots, it would probably be good to get at least one layer of glass over that area without any long bubbles at all. Or, if the cavity of the air bubble is big enough to *work* this, you could drill a small hole in one end of the long bubble area and use a syringe to squirt epoxy into that cavity to fill it. By doing that, you salvage the strength of the glass fibers already there, by supplying a more solid *core* under them. It is the same idea if you discover a significant void in pywood. Squirting epoxy into it to completely fill it can very much salvage a piece of plywood, depending on how and where it will be used, epsecially if it has a glass skin on both sides. If you grind off a long section of bubble, through all three layers, you lose *all* exterior glass fiber strength in that area. Depending on the area, I am not qualified to engineer whether that would be safe or not. But if the tape lamination is good, it is probably alright to grind the outer glass bubble enough to break it enough to work epoxy putty (wood flour) in there, but don't cut into the good tape lamination fibers in the process.
Hopefully a designer will correct this if I am wrong.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 4:57 am
by bernd1
Thanks all to !
@KS8:
I installed the tape last week without any bubbles - In my opinion perfect. The tape layed well on the wood.
Your hints are good.
If the designers have no doubts I will do it in this way.
Well, a further question - Is it neccessary to lay a tape over the 3 cuts I made in the fabric at the side panels ?
I wait for there response.
Thanks for all your efforts.
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 7:24 am
by Murry
I'd fill them like ks8 said Bernd. I had a couple along my chine as well. I drilled/poked two very small holes in each air pocket.
The first hole I poked through the bottom of one side of the air bubble (fill side) and I poked through the top of the other side. (air relief side). after filling I used two pieces of packageing tape (the non-sticky side) to keep the glue in until cure. It worked great.
Well, a further question - Is it neccessary to lay a tape over the 3 cuts I made in the fabric at the side panels ?
I don't think that's necessary bernd. the plans don't even call for glass up the sides except for 6 inches. Your diagram shows that you have three layers at your chine for at least three inches up the sides. 2 of the layers without cuts. I think you're fine with that. Of course I would suggest waiting to hear form someone with a bit more experience.
Looks great by the way. Very nice work. BTW- you might need to move your runner locations to one side or the other so that they'll lay flat while curing. Didn't you say the overlap was accidently layed at those locations.
Just a thought.
Daniel
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 8:41 am
by Cracker Larry
Is it neccessary to lay a tape over the 3 cuts I made in the fabric at the side panels ?
No, you've got plenty of glass on her. I'd call it bulletproof and move on. Nice work
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 10:51 am
by ks8
Murry wrote:The first hole I poked through the bottom of one side of the air bubble (fill side) and I poked through the top of the other side. (air relief side). after filling I used two pieces of packageing tape (the non-sticky side) to keep the glue in until cure. It worked great.
I think you could even use the *sticky side* of the tape. You may need to sand it off, but you'll be sanding that area before fairing anyway.
I used blue masking tape to cover the holes while it cured. A little bit stuck on some spots, but it sanded off nicely, and then a rub with acetone on a paper towel and all tape glue was effectively *degreased* off the hull. I used to put plastic wrap squares in the middle of the tape to avoid the *glue* issue, but I don't bother anymore. Takes much less time to sand and acetone the issue later.
No worries... very easy fix. Do it and as CL said, *move on* to the next step... fairing? Or runners? Fairing would probably be easier without the runners, but I don't know how other GFs have been done, permanent runners (before fairing for a better bond) or bond over fairing (sacrificial). Enjoy!
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 10:57 am
by bernd1
Daniel,
Larry,
thanks for your replies !
bulletproofed.......I knocked on the bottom.....I think I built a tank
....hope that the GF TK (tank) floats
Well, let's go for 2 hours in the garage to sand round the edges at the rubrail and other work......dusty work
....I will pick up some fluid things for me....
Story to be continued.....
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 11:04 am
by Murry
Story to be continued.....
Looking forward to it..
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 11:13 am
by mecreature
looks sweet. Looks perfect.
another vote for move on.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 3:56 am
by bernd1
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 10:16 am
by bushmaster
Bern
That's coming along along very smartly. I am taking notes for continuous Building of my FS17.
Lots of rain in South Florida at the moment, so I have to hold off doing major work on my boat, since I usually put it outside
Bushmaster
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 10:58 am
by bernd1
...the last work I did before going fishing next week....
I glassed the runners twice - I can tell you it is hard work to do it without any air bubbles - but it is done !
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 12:14 pm
by ks8
Other than fairing, I think the bottom is done!
Nice laminations...
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 2:23 pm
by Fonda@kauai
Solid Bernd
Very clean work and it looks indestructable. I love german engineering
I spent a little time in Munchen for oktoberfest a year or two ago, so cool over there.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 4:39 pm
by peter-curacao
Fonda@kauai wrote:Solid Bernd
Very clean work and it looks indestructable.
I agree that looks rock solid
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 6:18 pm
by AD16 The Opportunist
Fonda@kauai wrote:... I spent a little time in Munchen for oktoberfest a year or two ago....
The hardest way to learn German!!!
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 12:48 pm
by bernd1
Thanks for your replies,
it gives me motivation for the future work.
BTW, Carlo: Last week I spent some days in your home country - beautiful scenery good food and wine and 8 catfish these 5 days.
Well, I have to go back to building mode next week.
Bye
Bernd
BTW: To learn German in München is really the hardest way to do it
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 7:09 am
by bernd1
Fairing compound applied !
Next step --> sanding until the paper gives smoke signs
( I hate sanding - the worst step in building)
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 5:16 pm
by ks8
Another milestone. Congrats.
Enjoy that sanding.
Getting close now....
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 3:59 pm
by Murry
I think it's safe to say you'll finish before me now.
Looking good Bernd.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 3:42 pm
by bernd1
Thanks to you for motivation - but unfortunately I haven't faired the inside of the boat (except the inside of the seats and foredeck.
But you are right, it is a milestone - the work is getting more less.
I'm looking forward to launch.
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 10:56 am
by mecreature
Looks great.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 5:36 pm
by bernd1
...still sanding and fairing the inside - what a boring work.....
...update until I finished the fairing and sanding....
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 5:38 pm
by peter-curacao
bernd1 wrote:...still sanding and fairing the inside - what a boring work.....
...update until I finished the fairing and sanding....
Bye
Bernd
Hang in there Bernd, the taste is sweet when you're finished
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:06 pm
by cape man
It all takes time...lots of time...sometimes too much time!!! I have to sand everything lightly one MORE time to apply a clear coat finish, and I am dreading it like going to the dentist! I HATE SANDING!!!! But it is paying off. Stick to it and before you know it you'll have a boat that everyone will marvel at.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:39 am
by Murry
Bernd, I here you brother
Have you gotten the exterior fair yet?
I'm almost finished with the outside and will be fairing the interior next. I may not go for the same level of finish on the inside which I know I will regret.
I'm tring to get her finished before winter, but I may not make it.
Daniel
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 5:47 am
by bernd1
Hi @ all,
thanks for motivation - I hope to be finished with all the fairing and sanding before winter -and you know winter in Germany comes soon (unfortunately).
The movie from the FS14J gave me a lot of motivation to work every free time.....enjoy boating.
Bye Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 11:03 am
by ks8
Keep at it. You'll be glad you did. Especially on the bottom. That will affect performance.
Enjoy the final steps and painting.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 2:11 pm
by bernd1
I bet some of you prayed for me - the weather was the last days perfect - 12 - 16°C outside after the cold days before.
I picked up my brushes foam rollers and primer.....the first coat
....sorry for the bad resolution - my camera crashed and so I had to use my daughters mobile........
Story to be continued (....and hope to finish soon - please pray again
)
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:24 pm
by Murry
Bernd, that looks great buddy. I know you're glad to have the primer on her and it really looks nice. You did a fantastic job with fairing and I really like all of the storage areas.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 3:40 am
by bernd1
Thanks Daniel,
now the next round is open - light sanding the first coat , apply the second coat.......final coat 2x , hardware.....trailer....finish!!
BTW: Colud you please send me some pictures of your trailer - especially the mounting of the long bars where the boat lays on it.?
For working with primer, paint I highly recommend to wear a mask with a gas filter and dust filter - my primer (epoxy based ) smelled so strong that flies backslided from the wall - not good for the health.
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 9:41 am
by Cracker Larry
Your boat is looking excellent Bernd! Hoping you'll have a warm winter and can get her finished up.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 12:03 pm
by Murry
bernd1 wrote:Thanks Daniel,
now the next round is open - light sanding the first coat , apply the second coat.......final coat 2x , hardware.....trailer....finish!!
BTW: Colud you please send me some pictures of your trailer - especially the mounting of the long bars where the boat lays on it.?
For working with primer, paint I highly recommend to wear a mask with a gas filter and dust filter - my primer (epoxy based ) smelled so strong that flies backslided from the wall - not good for the health.
Bye
Bernd
I haven't forgotten about your request friend. I'm out of town at the moment and I wasn't able to get any good pictures last week and I didn't have my camera with me the day I get the boat wet
which would have been the perfect opportunity.
I'll get some better pictures this weekend and post them on your build thread.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 1:17 pm
by bernd1
Larry ,thanks !
Daniel , thanks for your help with the pictures
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:18 am
by Murry
I hope these help Bernd. I consentrated on the brackets with these pictures Bernd. The same brackets were used at all locations Bernd. The local marine supply stores here have different types of galvanized brackets to work with many applications. That will be probably be the most difficult step to fitting your trialer with bunks, but you should be able to find
something that works.
These bunks are 9 feet long and are made of 2x6 pressure treated lumber and they are wrapped with outdoor carpet, stapled underneath. The center bunk is 5 feet long. It isn't necessary but I wanted a little more support for myself while in the boat when it's on the trailer.
Never mind the yellow tape wrapping the bunks. I shortened my bunks the other day to increase my tongue weight. To do this I positioned the boat where I wanted it on the trailer to get a decent amount of tongue weight and then I just marked the bunks,
pulled the carpet loose and cut the bunks. I then trimmed the carpet to fit the shortened bunks. Nothing to it. The tape is keeping the carpet in place until I can pick the right kind of staples. I'm sure they make stainless staples for this sort of application.
Not sure though.
If you need any additional pictures let me know Bernd. I'd be happy to take them for you.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:33 am
by cape man
Before I ended up with starboard for the bunks I was going to use carpet and attach it with alluminum roofing nails. Not stainless, but very affordable and they should last several years.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 12:23 pm
by Larry B
cape man wrote:Before I ended up with starboard for the bunks I was going to use carpet and attach it with alluminum roofing nails. Not stainless, but very affordable and they should last several years.
Now thats a great idea Capeman. I think I'll try that on my trailer when the staples I used rust off
Maybe use a couple of staples with my air staple gun, as it's very easy to hold the carpet in place, then use the aluminum nails. That way when the staples rust out I'll still have the nails in place
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 3:24 pm
by TomW
Larry you can get Monel staples at Lowe's and depending on the Lowe's they sometimes carry SS also. Neither will rust.
Tom
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 3:55 pm
by bernd1
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:02 am
by Bobg
Murry, is there going to be anything towards the bow for forward support of the boat and stop forward motion when braking?
I had built a tee support on one I had years ago. It came up from the center, tee'd out, and I put a pivoting support one either end to conform the the forward hull.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 9:39 am
by Cracker Larry
I had built a tee support on one I had years ago. It came up from the center, tee'd out, and I put a pivoting support one either end to conform the the forward hull.
I did the same thing on mine. I felt that with the curve of the bow there was a lot of unsupported boat.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:22 am
by Larry B
Cracker Larry wrote:I had built a tee support on one I had years ago. It came up from the center, tee'd out, and I put a pivoting support one either end to conform the the forward hull.
I did the same thing on mine. I felt that with the curve of the bow there was a lot of unsupported boat.
Thats pretty neat you can use it for a clothsline also
Just kidding, that bracket looks good, might do something like that for my FL14??
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 3:35 am
by bernd1
Hi together,
I did some winter-work and I'm waiting for spring (now 45cm snow). Here is the result.
Homebuilt stainless steel rod holders for my GF16. A friend of mine helped me a lot. For me....they look pretty good.
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 7:16 am
by Murry
I'm not sure what I like the most Bernd, the floor or the rod holders.
They both look great and the rod holders will be strong enough for those big catfish you plan on reeling in. I like it
Daniel
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:34 am
by ks8
Nice.
Can you position one in the boat so we can go * Oooooh.... Aaahhh....*
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:40 pm
by Dog Fish
Murry wrote:I'm not sure what I like the most Bernd, the floor or the rod holders.
They both look great and the rod holders will be strong enough for those big catfish you plan on reeling in. I like it
Daniel
I am with Daniel, very nice job on the rod holders and yes a beautiful floor.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:55 pm
by AD16 The Opportunist
Hi Bernd! Finally you're here again! What for a winter.... here we have no snow, but always temps below zeroC°... No need to tell you how is going with work first, and then with boatbuilding!
Like every year, 'til after Easter no way to have a decent weather conditions in Germany
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:22 pm
by cape man
Nice rod holders. Simple and effective.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 4:05 pm
by Daddy
Beautiful work Bernd
Daddy
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 11:30 am
by bernd1
Thank you for your comments - hope to give the paint to my boat very soon - damned winter
(launch expected)
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 7:19 am
by bernd1
.....
I changed the construction of my midseat and thought....foam isn't bad - I should it do earlier to save time and money.
But here is the first step of my changes........
The next step is to cover the foam with a piece of sheet, glasing over it with 400gr biax tape an cut an new opening for one hatch.
I know just before painting, but that's life - I want to be satisfied with my work.
BTW, I would welcome a hint in the GF16 building plans there to install foam and how to do it best - well, a lot of work and time would be saved and help first time builders. Let us see - if I have time I will write such hints with drawings for the future builders.
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 2:06 pm
by bernd1
Update !
Cut, glued, tapped light sanded and fairing compound on....waiting until it is cured.
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 2:13 pm
by cape man
Bernd,
Great to see you're back at it. Warming up for you finally?
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 9:45 am
by bernd1
.....back on stage
Inside painted,
Graphite at the bottom -done -without any problems - the secret is to use a foam roller - ration about 30% graphite mixing into the mixed resin + harder in 5-8 steps to get no problems with hard spots.
....the "dark side" of my boat.....BTW I think I built a tank - it is damned heavy....as Larry would say.....bullet proof
Bye Bern
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 3:38 pm
by cape man
Fantastic Bernd. Getting close now...
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 3:46 pm
by Joe H
All boats have their "dark side" yours looks great!
Joe
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 6:28 pm
by AD16 The Opportunist
Great progress, Bernd!!! Next month you'll drive "her" on Po river, searching for the "Big one"
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 5:21 am
by bernd1
Thanks all to you !
BTW:....Carlo, I was 2 weeks ago in Italy for catfishing.....unfortunately without my boat.....but it doesn't matter, a further chance to launch it into the biggest river of Italy will come soon. (maybe with a "big one ").
Mixing ice-cream will be the most important thing instead of mixing epoxy, Carlo - or I'am wrong?
If you finished once a day your Ad16 I will take a look at her -promised !
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 6:44 pm
by AD16 The Opportunist
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 9:17 am
by bernd1
Update.......
the most is finished....at the moment I'm mounting the cleats, rod holders and all these "little" things....electric.
At the trailer I modified somethings that the flat bottom GF16 fits well. Next week I have to zinc coating the welded parts.
....enough the words here they are....
....next time....hope to send a movie "GF16 in motion"
BYe
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:09 am
by cape man
Awesome!!! Getting REAL close! Show some pics of the boat hardware. Is the color a light cream?
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 12:27 pm
by Murry
Trailer and boat look Great Bernd. I can tell the finish turned out very nice.
Looks like your going to beat me to the finish.
Daniel
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 9:06 am
by Cracker Larry
Fantastic Bernd! She looks great! I'm glad to see 3 GFs being finished up this week
One question
You are planning to put some carpet on those trailer boards aren't you?
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 4:25 pm
by bernd1
Hi @ all,
@ cape man.....the colour is white RAL 9010 ....all the hardware will be shown the next time
@ murry.....thanks ....but your paint is much better sprayed....believe me....my airless gun worked not so satisfied as I hoped...but for know it is okay.
@ Larry....sure.....carpet is a must....I investigated a lot here in Germany. Finally I found out that synthetic turf is the best to use.
The carpet is then mounted with stainless steel cramps. Finish this week....sorry no...I'm to busy.....pike hunting, walleye hunting
End of week I can pick up the zinced trailer parts to finish the trailer......they promised me.
Tomorrow I get my Sikaflex 291 (sealing compound
http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-ma-products) to proof my drain plug hole and all the other things.
.....the end is coming.
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 4:59 pm
by cape man
.....the end is coming.
Actually it is the beginning!!
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 5:57 pm
by Cracker Larry
That's a fact
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 6:10 am
by bernd1
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 6:57 am
by cape man
That girl has some purdy Jewelry!!! Very nice. Looks like you may be planning some fishing....
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 7:35 am
by cottontop
Bernd, Your boat looks beautiful. Do you really want to get her "dirty"? Great job. John
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 9:45 am
by TomW
Great shots Bernd, won't be long now till your catching some fish
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:40 pm
by wegcagle
AWESOME. Love the hardware
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:50 pm
by Cracker Larry
Yep, I think that one will be heavier than mine. Prettier too
That's a tricked out GF there!
You know me, I've always got a question
How far do the side lights (bow lights) protrude? In this picture they look like they would be vulnerable to damage from docks or trees, or anything you bump against. Maybe it's an illusion and the rub rail protects them?
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 6:12 pm
by gstanfield
Yeah, but they may not have cypress knees in Germany like you do down on the river
Good question though, now I'm curious too
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 6:57 pm
by Cracker Larry
Yeah, but they may not have cypress knees in Germany like you do down on the river
Probably not, but I bet they've got docks and trees and pilings
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 6:59 pm
by gstanfield
I'm sure they do, I was just razzing you a bit. Mostly cause I'm jealous of the waters you have down there and miss them
Oh, yeah. Sorry for the thread-jack
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 3:18 pm
by mecreature
she is unbelievable..
sure gonna turn some heads.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 4:09 am
by bernd1
......the solution for my lights is easy.....they were cheap.....and I got 2 for 1 .......about 5$ (each)
During the building I mentioned several times about this problem.....but a combined light at the bow would be faster damaged....I know my friends and their technique to lift the anchor...
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 8:00 am
by sideslippa
Lookin really good Bernd!, paint job turned out nice eh! should be very easy to clean...it is so glossy.
Steve.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 1:05 pm
by bernd1
Thanks Steve,
but unfortunately pictures can lie.....the boat isn't as glossy as I wanted because of some mistakes I did with spraying the paint.
The next boat would be rolled and tipped .....I tested with left over paint.....in my opinion it's the best technique for homebuilders (result recognized too late
)
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 2:20 pm
by Murry
bernd1 wrote:Thanks Steve,
but unfortunately pictures can lie.....the boat isn't as glossy as I wanted because of some mistakes I did with spraying the paint.
The next boat would be rolled and tipped .....I tested with left over paint.....in my opinion it's the best technique for homebuilders (result recognized too late
)
Bye
Bernd
I understand what your saying Bernd, but there is no such thing as a perfect paint job. The person that see's most of the
mistakes is the person that has put all the time in the project. Most people you meet won't notice those details, but they
recognize how nice of job you did. That's what I see in your pictures. You've put a lot of thought into your boat and
you did a fantastic job with it as well.
I'm looking forward to being finished with you soon,
Daniel
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 4:17 pm
by Cracker Larry
the solution for my lights is easy.....they were cheap.....and I got 2 for 1 .......about 5$ (each)
During the building I mentioned several times about this problem....
Good solution
Sorry I missed it earlier, or I would have said something
How about fastening them with nylon bolts. Then if you hit something they would just shear off and not damage the hull, maybe not even damage the light
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 6:57 am
by bernd1
http://img840.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... mrhein.mp4
http://img508.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... hein21.mp4
http://img80.imageshack.us/my.php?image ... rhein2.mp4
.....GF 16 in motion....2 people (180kg) gas(25kg) battery (5kg)...all hardware and the boat (200kg)....Mariner 25HP 2 stroke...
....a "little bit" overbuilt but no flexing at all - 0 flexing ,none, nothing, very strong, very rigid.
I like the 25HP ....less HP ...no....the right range of power.
If build the GF16 again I would take a look to the weight - mine is a little bit heavy - the target would be 130kg max.
Enjoy the movie - Sorry for the bad resolution.....it was the camera of my daughters mobile. Next time HD ready
.
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 8:04 am
by Murry
Very nice Bernd! You were flying out there.
Did you weigh your boat? I need to go weigh mine some how.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 8:06 am
by Murry
I just read your post again. 200kg Thanks.
Does that include the engine and battery Bernd? Thanks.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 8:17 am
by sitandfish
The boat looks super out on the water. I love the way that boat is flat and level at rest, while running and even when you and your friend are back at shore and hopping off the bow. Very stable boat and nicely built.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 8:35 am
by Cracker Larry
She looks great on the water Bernd, nice videos too. I told you that you'd like that 25
Beautiful job
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 9:47 am
by Joe H
Very nice launch video Bernd. I enjoyed watching this one come together, congrads.
Joe
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 10:23 am
by steve292
hey,you launched
! nice build bernd, what about some nic still pics of it?
Steve
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 10:46 am
by bernd1
Thanks @ all,
Daniel, 200kg without engine and battery
...."little" overbuilt
Larry, 25HP yeah
...30HP maybe better
Steve, I will make some pictures of the boat if I'am not too busy the next time...
If you read the following sentence you will think I'am crazy...
"I would like to start now my FS17"
.....but I have to slow down because of my wife and the girls....next time I have to look more after their
If built the GF16 again I would change following things:
1. Divide the seats in 3 parts - left/right side filled with foam
2. Just one hatch for each seat - no homemade again because for waterproofed hatches the work is too much - I would buy some.
3. Divide the front deck in 3 parts - left/right side filled with foam - this space there you are not able to use senseful
4. Less resin ,fabric and fairing compound on the boat compared to mine
5. No spraying paint at home......roll and tip with the right product works better
6. Inviting friends for sanding
I used about 40liters resin for all and at the outside of the bottom the boat has sometimes three layers in the centre
...inside equal
.....a tank.....well, don't cross may way on the water
I think as a first time builder you don't trust the resin and fabric that this is so strong.....but it is
For the FS17 in future I will follow the recommandations of the designer and the builders before - promised.
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 11:56 am
by TomW
She looks great Bernd really pretty both in and out of the water.
Tom
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 10:04 pm
by cape man
Fantastisch!!
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 6:59 am
by bernd1
Hi cape man,
have you become a German?
Es ist schön ein Lob auf deutsch zu bekommen - danke !
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 9:47 am
by cape man
Ich studierte Deutsch in college.
Can't speak a word really, but thought I'd give you a "way to go" in your native tongue. I can whip out some pretty good Tunisian Arabic, but don't know how to write it here.
Haraqualiada!! (pretty close to "fantastic!")
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 4:12 pm
by bernd1
Hi cape man,
I tried to pronounce the word "Haraqualiada"......it work not before 5 beers..after that without any trouble
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 4:34 pm
by mecreature
bernd1 wrote:
I think as a first time builder you don't trust the resin and fabric that this is so strong.....but it is
For the FS17 in future I will follow the recommandations of the designer and the builders before - promised.
Bye
Bernd
sooo true
that is one sharp boat.. and gets you there in a hurry
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 8:57 pm
by robbiro
Bernd, And another GF-16 launches!! Congrats on getting her officially SPLASHED... Enjoy and keep us posted on how she works. She looks great on the water.
Great Build!!
Robbie
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 1:24 am
by bernd1
robbiro wrote:Bernd, And another GF-16 launches!! Congrats on getting her officially SPLASHED... Enjoy and keep us posted on how she works. She looks great on the water.
Great Build!!
Robbie
Well, with 3 people (270kg) + boat weight 200kg and engine (54kg) gas (25kg) installed hardware and fishing tackle about (30kg) battery (15kg).....it is a lot weight to move - but it moves.
To accelerate to full speed I need about 15-20 seconds - thanks to 2 stroke - after that my friends told me that they noticed that the bow came out of the water and the water hits the bottom just in front of the mid seat (there they were sitting - 180kg battery 15kg tackle 5kg).
To keep the nose down I put the trim needle in the deepest hole - I looks unusual but it is neccessary.
Behaviour in waves:
If a waves touches the boat at the side it is the best to turn the boat in a 90° angle to it to have more stability - I felt never in danger....but it is better.
Once I had to cross bigger waves of a big ship and there it is the best to be careful....but later I didn't recognize a further wave...well, I jumped over it (the flying GF)
......but no problem the boat was built very strong
In turns you have to be careful - I tested it with just one friend on the mid seat. at 90% of full speed the end of the boat slided a little bit - my friend was scared - but I told him to trust me
.....three turns later his face started to become more and more white - but i don't know why?
For me the test running was succesful !
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 8:36 am
by wegcagle
Great report Bernd. You did a fabulous job on this boat. Now it's time to enjoy all of that hard work
Will
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 3:15 pm
by bernd1
Well, here are a few videos of my GF16 with 4 persons - my girls, wife and I'am.
The girls had a lot of fun with the GF16. The oldest turned a narrow circle near by full speed so that the GF16 slided onto the left side panel and the engines prop was out of the water - I told her not to become a hell driver - she was very amused about that.
I told here to be careful the next time - otherwise no boating again.....but look to the videos.....have fun!
[img=http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5666/file31243z.mp4.frm.jpg]
Yesterday was a lot of traffic on the water - good conditions to test the boat in waves - I was very happy how the GF worked with the big waves - although it is a flat bottom boat the GF did a good job -very good. Thanks to Jaques the designer - I think the shape of the side panels and the long bottom is the secret. In small and many waves it sounds as a lot of people are knocking under the bottom - but no flexing at all nothing none zero (okay in the center overlap there are 3 layers in and out
)
I never had the feeling to be in a dangerous situation - for me a very good boat. If build again I would like to give other users my experiences - after that they will have "the best GF16".
[img=http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5959/file31243.mp4.frm.jpg]
[img=http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/9116/file13041.mp4.frm.jpg]
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 7:07 pm
by rjezuit
Nice videos. But from one father to another, please put life jackets on the little darlings and a lanyard kill switch on the operator. Rick
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 3:01 pm
by bernd1
Hi Rick,
you're right -I know. The life vests layed in front of the girls - better to wear it if falling out of the boat. A kill switch isn't installed at this old engine, but yesterday ordered.
Well, in future safety first.
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 4:35 pm
by tobolamr
Beautiful! Beautiful boat, beautiful family, beautiful waterway. Congratulations on getting her underway!
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 4:45 pm
by TomW
Hey Bernd great boat! When I went out with Larry in his to about 5-6 miles out in the Gulf of Mexico. We came in when the waves started to develop white caps and 2' height. Only thing he did to me was hump a big wake off a big boat so I went up and down on my butt.
The GF16 is a great boat so enjoy her and catch a lot of fish!
Tom
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 8:57 am
by sideslippa
I enjoyed the video of your new boat. The kids just love it don't they?....Very well done Bernd
Best regards Slippa.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 12:14 pm
by Daddy
Beauty
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 1:09 pm
by Fonda@kauai
Hey Bernd, das Boot kam aus großen! Das Ding ist schnell! Aloha aus kauai.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 2:44 pm
by bernd1
Thanks !
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 4:13 pm
by ks8
I just saw the pictures and launch and videos. Congratulations!
Good to hear you ordered a kill switch too.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 6:29 pm
by AD16 The Opportunist
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 5:56 pm
by bernd1
Thanks to everyone who supported me during my boatbuilding - especially the bateau.com-team who answered very fast though I know that they are very busy with their own work.
I learned a lot about wood, epoxy, paint and all the other small components you have to use.
At the moment I have no boat project...but a working shop project to build.....you know the FS17 is in my mind.
Good luck to and a lot of fun to all other builders !
First launch in Italy in the river PO.....for hunting european catfish....
The boat runs fast with the 25HP Mariner (2stroke) in that fast and strong river. It managed the waves well. It is a good boat for its size....and easy to handle. I'm looking forward to my next trips with it.
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 11:03 am
by bernd1
.....here is a small video how the GF16 runs......
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 11:27 am
by Larry B
Boat looks great
I sure wish I had a beach like that at the lake I fish
Ours is nothing but rock
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 8:15 am
by bernd1
Here 's my new design with a CC.
Test with cardboard and a painting program - to use a painting programm is cheaper and faster - a further advantage ....I had not to clean my garage
Bye
Bernd
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 8:29 am
by Cracker Larry
I like it, good proportions
Not sure about that sand dune in front of the boat
Re: GF16 Pictures Bernd
Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 9:22 am
by ks8
That sure is one way to clean... the picture anyway...