McKee Craft sole replacement/rebuild

[tech_support]

post a picture. If its woven, its not as strong as Biaxial. We specify double bias "45/45" for a reason on tabbing, the 45 degree fiber orientation is important. For taping joints (frames/hull) You will need at least double, maybe triple the amount of 8 oz woven to equal what you get with one layer 45/45 biaxial. Thats a lot of wasted epoxy to wet out free fiberglass.

also what tom says is correct about some fiberglass not being compaitble with epoxy. I received a call from a glass distributor in Chicago a few weeks ago. he was getting rid of an inventory of 6 oz woven tape (something we sell to kayak builders). I received a sample roll and tested it with epoxy. The glass had a binder in it that repelled epoxy, it was almost impossible to wet out. After it cured i was able to peel it right off the wood

[sam03v]

no camera available at the moment, but it looks like the fibers are perpendicular to each other. I'm guessing this isn't what I should use...

[sam03v]

http://picasaweb.google.com/maierscott/ ... directlink

The above link should take you to my picassa page. I have a folder there showing the fiberglass in question. Click on "slideshow" to see clearer pictures.

Please let me know what you guys think of the glass.

Thanks!

[Cracker Larry]

Sorry Sam, that is woven cloth, not biax

[sam03v]

bummer!

Can I use this to cover the sole?

[Cracker Larry]

Yes, sole, decks, seats, anything that's not structural. Assuming it is compatable with epoxy.

[TomW]

I'll just confirm what Larry said so you have two opinions. Have Shine calculate how much biax you'll need it should not be much and shipping is not that bad, UPS that way you know you have the right stuff. You may be able to get by with 6 oz or it may have to be 12 oz I'm not the expert on that.

Tom

[sam03v]

Just an update here. I finally got the 3 stringers cut to size. I ended up using 3/8" marine grade ply(fir), used two layers for each stringer. They took awhile to get to size, I didn't want to screw up on the expensive marine plywood so I made patterns out of cardboard and then this "hardboard" I bought at home depot. The hardboard is like peg board without the holes, about $8 for a 4'x8' sheet, it's flexible but stiff enough to make good patterns with. I also made a funky bulkhead which will be epoxied/glassed to those gussets at the stern and then tabbed to the bottom of the hull. That's as far as I've gotten the past few weeks.

I also bought a small kit of CPES from the Rot Doctor people to treat that short middle stringer. The stringer wasn't rotten, but I figured that CPES wouldn't hurt anything. I didn't want to dig the wood out because it was really hard glued in there.

I ordered the marine epoxy and 12oz. biaxial tape from you guys. Unfortunately I ordered the medium catalyst instead of slow, but I think it'll work out okay. I mixed up a few small batches of epoxy putty using the wood flour and used it in 85-90 degree heat. I easily had 15-20 minutes of working time. I used the putty to make 1" wide flats in the v grooves of the valleys in the bottom of the hull. With the flats the stringers fit better. I put the putty in the groove and then spread it flat with a putty knife. I hope I didn't create a problem by doing that!

I'll get some pictures up soon.

[sam03v]

Well its been almost 4 months since I've worked on the boat, but the temperature outside is finally bearable so I got the center stringer, the funky bulkhead and one side stringer tabbed in. It started raining(sprinkling) when I was installing the side stringer this morning so I had to work under a tarp that covered the boat. Somehow managed to get epoxy in my hair! But soaking with mineral spirits did the trick getting it out.

Quick question about the marine epoxy sold by Bateau... Because of the rain, I have to go back and add a layer of biaxial over a layer that will have cured. Do I need to sand it, wash it with soap and water or wipe it down with acetone first?

Thanks in advance,

[sam03v]

I'm still working on this puppy and have questions about fairing. After the sole has been installed and covered with 6oz cloth do I cover the entire sole with fairing compound or just where the sole is tabbed to the inner hull? I initially thought I would just fair the tabbed in areas and then paint, but now I'm not sure.