PH18 w/tunnel

[Uncle D]

It's been very hot, MD, but you know that.
Thanks for the reply Jacques. Dog's a smart fellow, and it's good to get backed up. Don't know if you are from Canada, but my wife has been up to visit her mom and other relatives in St. Martins near Quebec. Mostly Pepin's. Lots cooler there than here or Florida.

I'll post pics as soon as Julie get's back with the camera, but I have been getting a little work done. Got the bottom laid up with cloth. I have a couple of air spots,about the size a quarter or less that needs attention. Sooo... should I grind it out and use filler or put on a patch of glass. I'm also thinking of a second layer on the bottom. then finally, I think I want to go with the epoxy/graphite as the final bottom coat. How much and how many coats will it take? Thanks, Don

[Mad Dog]

Hey Uncle D, can't wait to see some pics of you progress. I'll let one of the other guys commento on the air bubbles and second layer of glass. As for the graphite three coats is about right. I still need to send you my left over graphite. I don't have as much as I thought though, but at least enough for one coat. A one pound bag is plenty.

MD

[TomW]

With such small bubbles just cut them out and fill them in. As far as the 2nd layer are you going to be running up on oyster beds, or other things that you will say dang which I had that second layer. If so you probably want the second layer. I'm going to be doing a lot of boating on the Mississippi where there are snags always coming down as well as my home lake her in NC which is River fed so it also has snags so I'm putting on 2 layers. Clarry did do to oyster bars in GA on his OD. Just remembers it adds some weight but I don't consider it significant.

One way to add it and cut down on your fairing is to add the second layer inside the tape outlines on the chines and keel.

Tom

[Uncle D]

Don't worry about it Dog, I found out my brother can get for me in Houston. Just please tell me how much to mix and I guess I need to fair the bottom first and add the strakes (sp?) or what??
Tom, You got it on the oyster beds and such. I also thought about the laying between too, so thanks for confirming that. Later, Don

[Mad Dog]

Don, I would put the graphite on last. Lay on your second layer of glass and fill the weave with epoxy and micro balloon fillers. Then put on the strakes, according to instructions, then fair the bottom using Quick Fair. Then, put on three coats of graphite. I mixed the graphite and epoxy at 20% by volume more or less. Thicker in the first coat than the last. You're not looking for putty or filet more like a thin slurry.

Follow the build order to make sure you get the structural integrity then end with the graphite to give everything, including the strakes a nice hard surface. Besides the quick Fair needs a sealer over it anyway.

MD

[Cracker Larry]

Tom, You got it on the oyster beds and such. I also thought about the laying between too, so thanks for confirming that.

Yep, it eliminates a dished bottom and a lot of fairing.

One way to add it and cut down on your fairing is to add the second layer inside the tape outlines on the chines and keel.

I actually did it on the first layer...




Then covered everything with the second layer, which I overlapped down the center about 18".





It's oyster proof

[Uncle D]

I appreciate it guys, going to get back to it soon. Thanks, Don

[Mad Dog]

Okay, time for an update. I'm watching you on two forums so you need to keep up!

MD

[Uncle D]

Hi all, things got crazy for a while, but I got back to plugging along. Got some pics to post of the progress, but first I would like ya'lls opinion on the side panel joints. I'm thinking on gluing and screwing a butt block on the inside to fair this joint.





The right side is not as bad but still needs attention. So...what do you think??

Here's the other pics.

My strong back. I used a 1/2" all thread, 6" long. I then threaded about 2 " it into the 4x4. The 2x6 was drilled open so it could move up and down on the rest of the all thread, then a washer and nut to adjust for leveling.

Getting the frame ready for hull and side panels to be stitched.

Had to cut and loosen the ties, then start pulling ties front to back to get the bow to align.


All done stitching. Time to glue.

Got all the out side seams and first layer of cloth. After taping the seams, I wet out the hull. The next day layed the cloth on both sides using about 1 gal. of resin per side. I think I got the 50-50 ratio down. I then sanded the hull with the RO and wet between the seams to lay a second layer of cloth between those seams. This should help protect the bottom from reefs but also help in fairing.

Ready to flip.

I really like the shape/lines of the bow. Had to do some grinding on it.

Got all the sanding and grinding of the inside done.
Now I'm at the point where I need to address the side panel splices mentioned earlier, then tape the inside seams.
Later, Don.

[TomW]

Uncle D don't know where the rubrail or inwale is in your construction documents but this may be the solution to your problem. Most of the boat plans(5) I have have the raubrail or inwhale installed before the flip and this keeps what happened to you from happening. So hopefully by installing it and just pulling that point in you will solve the problem. I'd hate to see you install a flat peice of wood as that is a curved section of the hull.

Tom