Mark's PH18 in Toronto

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MarkOrge
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Re: Mark's PH18 in Toronto

Post by MarkOrge »

Thanks Tom.

Next question; I did a search on "how to transfer plans to the wood" and found the great idea of using the nails and pvp pipe for the curves, but I have found another dilmena. My plans for don't seem to have the total length for the stringers, but of course do have the one full sized sheet for the first 6 or 8 feet. How do I transfer these lines to the wood for the molds? I can't cut the shapes out because they have other lines for subsequent stringer sections overlapping.

Also, I saw on one fo the posts a neat trick using some aluminum "angle iron" shaped channel from Home Depot for a mold to make the spray rail and/or strakes. Would this be sufficient if placed in the right orientation for the reverse chine?

I am leaning towards just reverse chine and skeg to keep the hull simple to fair and finish, my guessing is I won't loose much in the way of cornering. One can always just slow down/trim down a little.

Thoughts?

Thanks again everyone!
My Son calls me "The Fish Whisperer" I love it !

SmokyMountain
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Re: Mark's PH18 in Toronto

Post by SmokyMountain »

Next question; I did a search on "how to transfer plans to the wood" and found the great idea of using the nails and pvp pipe for the curves, but I have found another dilmena. My plans for don't seem to have the total length for the stringers, but of course do have the one full sized sheet for the first 6 or 8 feet. How do I transfer these lines to the wood for the molds? I can't cut the shapes out because they have other lines for subsequent stringer sections overlapping.
Mark,

I just got finished cutting everything out so it's fresh on my mind. I believe you are talking about the insider stringer dimension from bulkhead "A" to the tip. I scaled off the plans (they are almost to scale - one tic off) and got 9 1/4". I've stitched the boat and it seems to work well. Also, other pages may have the dimensions you are looking for. Another thing to think about are the side panels and bottom panels. The offset dimensions from the edge of plywood is based of a 4'x8' piece of plywood. The Okoume is a couple of inched wider and longer. On the bottom panels, I measured everything from one side, thus automatically compensating for the difference in width. Also, I found it easier to draw the panels once and cut both at the same time. They are exactly the same (just make sure you measure twice and cut once :lol: )

I used a 3/4" pvc as a baton and it work well. You will need to get two 10 ft pieces with a coupling for the bigger panels.


Andrew

BassMunn

Re: Mark's PH18 in Toronto

Post by BassMunn »

Each measurement on your stringer drawing is 24" apart (or 610mm) along the length, just add them up.

MarkOrge
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Re: Mark's PH18 in Toronto

Post by MarkOrge »

Next rookie question: when working with foam, say on a part like a stringer where you need to "round off" the corners to wrap the glass around, can one use a router or will that burn/melt the edge of the foam?
My Son calls me "The Fish Whisperer" I love it !

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tech_support
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Re: Mark's PH18 in Toronto

Post by tech_support »

router will cut the divinycell foam just fine without melting. The more dense foams can have this issue, but we cut divinycell foam with our CNC router and its not even close to melting. I have also rounded over some foam parts with a normal hand held router with no issues. Nida core honeycomb will have some melting issues, but its polyethylene plastic so you would expect as much.

MarkOrge
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Re: Mark's PH18 in Toronto

Post by MarkOrge »

Well we finally got started. We built the "strong back" or at least the first 2/3 of it. No resin yet, my brother in law kicked in some good lumber for framing, even if they had a little concrete on them (he has a construction company)

First, this structure will be a surface to do some familiarization on vacuum bagging, as is recommended. I'll be starting with some naked nidacore panels that will do fine for anything flat.

It will then get extended and be the start of the deck mold. I'll post some details from 'cadd later.

Next it will get lowered and be the "strong back".

Once the hull is done it, can go on the trailer, and by then it will be next fall and we can finish off through the winter.

Sorry of this sounds confusing, I have it straight on my head. I have been building this over 100 times a month in my sleep.

Must be a virus I got from this website. :D

Got to tend to the buzzard on the Q, thanks to all of you that inspire us newbie’s !


Image

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My Son calls me "The Fish Whisperer" I love it !

MarkOrge
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Re: Mark's PH18 in Toronto

Post by MarkOrge »

One question: we have a solid frame that the 3/4" MDF is on, but for now I have only screwed down the perimiters. I am wondering if I should screw the middles or allow the sheet to float on the 2 X 4's - I have them on 12" centers for the frame, over double 2 X 6's for the strongback, and we looked at each 2 X 4 for crowns etc as we built. My concern is that if I start screwing the MDF up and down all the 2 X 4's I will create "dimples" or wallows by tightening down an already good surface to a less then perfect 2 X 4.

Of course I am going to work on the seams, a lifetime ago I used to be in flooring.....

Thoughts ?
My Son calls me "The Fish Whisperer" I love it !

MarkOrge
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Re: Mark's PH18 in Toronto

Post by MarkOrge »

For a mold with smooth MDF as a base.

My guess is seal, sand smooth any imperfections, seal again, of finish is good spray on a good layer of pva (partall) and good to go? Risks? Two layers pva? Roll it on or spray? It will be a one time throw away mold.
My Son calls me "The Fish Whisperer" I love it !

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Re: Mark's PH18 in Toronto

Post by tech_support »

if your going to be bagging on the table, it should be as flat as reasonably possible. I used table top epoxy on our table - it FLAT. But for one boat, i would just run my straight edge around it to make sure there are no warps. You need to coat it with something hard, then sand/polish it smooth. Then you have something to wax and/or use PVA on. I think if it were myself, i would just bag over plastic, and fair out the minor blemishes. The investment in a perfect table needs to be amortized, of course if you get BBV bad then this could be a good idea :)

MarkOrge
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Re: Mark's PH18 in Toronto

Post by MarkOrge »

Thanks Joel. I did the seams and screww holes and went around with my straightedge and she is within a hair of perfect. I am going to go with bagging on plastic as the parts are all flat/non finished ones like sole and bulkheads. when I get to the deck there will be very little that shows due to all the hatch and drain contours.
My Son calls me "The Fish Whisperer" I love it !

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