FL12 - NW Trout - ***SPLASHED***

[NW Trout]

Wow!! I need to get busy! You boat looks really good John. I appreciate the photos and details. If there is anything so far that looking back you would say to "Watch out for" please sent me a PM. It looks like you did leave a little gap between the butt blocks on the side panels... and the bottom edge of the side panels. I read from another builder to leave 5/8" to account for the hull butt blocks.

The butt block gap is noted on the plans, I was just off. That old measure twice cut once and then once again

I think I would hold off on cutting the seat tops until the frames are set in place. As I think I mentioned, I was a bit off and the gaps along the sides are bigger than I think they need to be. If I end up finishing the interior bright, I may make some small decorative detail pieces to glue and cover the gap/glue lines.

The other thing would be to follow the advice of others and plan/layout all the work you'll be doing with using epoxy and glue:

- making sure its properly measured and fully mixed;
- coating edges of the side panels, transom and bottom well ahead to stitching to make sure the wood is properly coated;
- having other future steps and glue pieces thought out and ready.

For example, I coated the side panel areas where the bow and transom seat cleats will go & the cleats themselves well in advance. Its fully cured now. I'll hit those lightly with sand paper before gluing the cleats. Otherwise trying to tape or clamp them will be harder if fresh epoxy coat is on the side panels.

[NW Trout]

Update 2/10/10

We made some small progress last night. Afterward, tented the boat in plastic and heaters as outside garage temps got into the 30’s. This helped with the cure but also caused a slight issue with duct taped seams

Glued in transom seat and support cleats. We plan add center seats supports, seat lid and to section off the sides in watertight compartments with round deck hatches accessible from inside the seat lid.


Tack welded transom to sides. Notice gap between bottom and sides/transom. Heat in the tent caused duct tape to give a bit. A few clamps when it comes time to fillet will solve that.


A bit of a recess in the glue line on one side of the bow frame. Will add some to fill it flush later, but its definitely solid.


Triangular glued sandwich of plys that will be used as a bow eye reinforcement.


And its approx. location in the bow. We’ll “dam” off the bottom and sides with packing tape and fill the gaps with thick epoxy glue.


Cutout in rear transom frame for battery wire pass-thru. The wires will be hidden in a conduit using corner wood molding running between the transom and mid-seat, where battery will be located.

[quadradomus]

Great work and photos John. I am sort of stuck here in that I am concerned about mixing epoxy/hardner with the temps. in the garage. I am using System 3 products. It appears that they sent me the #2 product. It needs a minimum temp. of 55 deg. F.
to cure. The garage is staying around 52 deg. I bought some heaters, but I can't seriously leave them on all night, that doesn't feel safe. I think your tent building idea was good, but still not sure about leaving heaters on.

Question: I am wondering if the battens have made a problem for the mid-seat top to cover the frames completely. If the mid seat frames are put against the side panel butt blocks, the battens are on the inside of course of the frames.... does the dimension of the seat top take into account that the battens on the both mide seat frames have now made the seat a greater length forward - aft, (Of course you have to use the battens I realize... but there isn't anything I can find regarding how thick of wood to use for the battens. This would seem to affect a nice fit for the seat top? I used 1x3 firring strips.

[NW Trout]

Great work and photos John. I am sort of stuck here in that I am concerned about mixing epoxy/hardner with the temps. in the garage. I am using System 3 products. It appears that they sent me the #2 product. It needs a minimum temp. of 55 deg. F.
to cure. The garage is staying around 52 deg. I bought some heaters, but I can't seriously leave them on all night, that doesn't feel safe. I think your tent building idea was good, but still not sure about leaving heaters on.

Concrete doesn't burn I had two small ceramic style heaters and had both on all night. I'm using the #2 medium hardner as well. I keep the epoxy jugs in a semi-heated file cabinet - sort of an easybake oven with a 40/60 watt light bulb. The other option is to keep the epoxy inside at house temps. This should help.

Question: I am wondering if the battens have made a problem for the mid-seat top to cover the frames completely. If the mid seat frames are put against the side panel butt blocks, the battens are on the inside of course of the frames.... does the dimension of the seat top take into account that the battens on the both mide seat frames have now made the seat a greater length forward - aft, (Of course you have to use the battens I realize... but there isn't anything I can find regarding how thick of wood to use for the battens. This would seem to affect a nice fit for the seat top? I used 1x3 firring strips.

I used 1x2 (actually 3/4 by 1 1/2) firring strips. The previously cut seat top fits. However, next time, next build, I'll cut the seat tops after the frames are set just to be sure.

[ks8]

Concrete doesn't burn

.. unless you put it at the focal point of a 8x8 foot fresnel lense out in the sun for a few hours, and watch it turn into molten lava. But that would be a bit too hot to properly cure the epoxy... I think...

[NW Trout]

Tack welded transom to sides. Notice gap between bottom and sides/transom. Heat in the tent caused duct tape to give a bit. A few clamps when it comes time to fillet will solve that.

Rats! What I needed to notice is the side cleat blocks are glued at the top level of the seat and not the bottom level - 3/8 inch lower - like the rear seat cleat. A bit of work with a RotoZip and RO sander last night. Oh the joy. Live and learn.

[JamesT]

Question: I am wondering if the battens have made a problem for the mid-seat top to cover the frames completely. If the mid seat frames are put against the side panel butt blocks, the battens are on the inside of course of the frames.... does the dimension of the seat top take into account that the battens on the both mide seat frames have now made the seat a greater length forward - aft, (Of course you have to use the battens I realize... but there isn't anything I can find regarding how thick of wood to use for the battens. This would seem to affect a nice fit for the seat top? I used 1x3 firring strips.

If i remember correctly, it states on the planes to leave gap between the edge the batten and the endge of the seat frame to leave room for the side butt blocks, that way your not extending the width of the seat top....i gather that was what you were asking. As, NW stated, i believe it is a good idea to cut the seat tops after the frames are in, that way you can compensate for any cutting errors that were made earlier.


NW Trout, great looking work!

[NW Trout]

Valentine’s Day Update – Yep. The Mrs. let me and Boy 1.0 spend some time on the boat.

Friday we removed front mid-frame, measured and cut for deck hatches. The mid-seat will be compartmentalized with two side water-tight sections and the middle accessible via seat-top hatch. The middle will house the battery when the trolling motor is used.


Then we glued the frames in place. Let them sit for a day and all is good.

Here is a detail of the rear mid-frame and plys added to account for measurement screwup. Ugly, but they will be covered with ¼ plywood as shown in the 2nd pic


Edge will be routed/rounded over as well.


Today was the day to try our hands at fillet'ing and glassing.

Fiberglass tape precut and ready to go.


Epoxy version of a Black&Tan???


Bow stem fillet’d and taped.


Matthew wetting out fiberglass tape along the bow section chines.


Transom box edges glassed and an attempt at a “poor man’s peel ply” on the rear edges that will be above the seat tops. Hopefully this will help in keeping things smooth & bright later.


We opt'd to do the interior boxes first to get a bit of experience of using the fiberglass. One thing we noted is the apparent shrinkage of the tape once cut. Not a lot but noticeable. Is this normal?

We'll try to get to the foot well chines later today or tomorrow. I'm interested to see how the peel ply does as I'm counting on it to make the foot well chines smooth.

[ks8]

One thing we noted is the apparent shrinkage of the tape once cut. Not a lot but noticeable. Is this normal?

Biax tape has no limiting stitching along the side, in the manner in which woven tape is limited by its stitching, so biax can stretch wider or longer, but typically not both. If you stretch it out when measuring it (making it more narrow also), it may shrink back a bit after the cut (and regain its non stretched width). I always try to make sure there is no tension on the laid out biax tape when I measure it before cutting, rather than pulling on it while measuring and cutting. It still might *shorten* with my method, but you can stretch it a little in laying it out on the fillet also.

In short... yep... biax tape can do that... which partly helps it take some curves much better than equivalent weight woven tape.

[NW Trout]

Thanks ks8.

The explanation makes perfect sense.

Peel Ply - worked very very well on the upper transom side area. I need to improve my rolling technique but the 3mil plastic sheeting really made it scary smooth - no glass weave whatsoever.