Matt,
Temporary console attached with 4 S/S T nuts and screws through an inside turned flange built into it. T-nuts pushed in from below deck through the access hole. I've left the entire center "bay" from frame A to the stern open below the deck. Limber holes in each frame allow any water that enters to collect aft. There's a 6" round Beckson hatch near the transom to allow that bit of water to be removed. I'll post a few more pictures later with how this all was done. The "real" console will be attached more substantially but for now, near shore, this seems to be more than OK.
Bill
FS17 in Connecticut
- remedy32
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Re: FS17 in Connecticut
I got a question from another potential builder about the boat and realized my answer might be helpful to others. Here are a few more observations having taken the boat out 3 or 4 times now.
Re: Glass used for bottom lamination
I did not follow the plan recommendations since I had a lot of 10 oz. woven cloth on hand. The plan calls for one layer of 12 oz. biax. I substituted 2 layers of 10 oz. (0/90 cloth) and offset one layer 45 degrees to the centerline of the boat. This probably is a bit heavier than their recommendation but not much. And I do find the cloth easier to fill/fair than the biax. The bottom of the boat came out VERY stiff between the internal structural grid and the glassed plywood. Looking back on the build I see the greatest opportunities for building lighter in using okume rather than meranti plywood. This would save 25% of the core weight instantly. The two heaviest pieces of the build are the cockpit sole (around 68 lbs. for the meranti plywood alone) and the transom lamination ( maybe 40 lbs in the meranti). Keep in mind that the okume is MUCH more expensive in most places though.
If I were buying all the material I would use the 12 oz. biax for sure. If cost were less a factor I would use the okume plywood.
I made a few other changes to the boat for personal reasons like leaving out the motorwell bulkhead and relocating the "A" frame a bit forward. I will be adding a bulkhead in front of the transom over the winter but it will be further aft (closer to transom) than the design shows. I understand Jacques' concerns about this but have decided to trust my own judgement. I would follow the plan unless you have some compelling reason not to in this area.
Performance is still very good considering the low power I'm using. Boat cruises with 2 adults aboard at 18-20 mph (15-17 kts) using just a bit more/less than 2 gallons per hour. Not bad for a 20 year old 2 stroke. The boat tracks and steers very nicely and handles a bit of chop well. It's interesting how the boat transitions from low speed to planing. There's very little change in trim at all; a few degrees at most. The boat just goes faster progressively; smoothly between 8 mph and 24 or so.
I had considered powering with as little as 20 hp originally. I would not try this now unless the boat was tiller steered and built very lightly; say 450 lbs. (less engine only) or less. I think that 25-40 hp is perfect of the boat. If I were buying a now motor for a center console build I would strongly consider the 30 hp Evinrude Etec at around 175 lbs. I think the 40 hp 4 strokes (at around 240 lbs.) are too heavy for the back of this boat.
I'll be adding more information as I get it together like the finished weight etc.
Hope this helps a bit and good luck with the build.
Bill
FS17
FL14
Re: Glass used for bottom lamination
I did not follow the plan recommendations since I had a lot of 10 oz. woven cloth on hand. The plan calls for one layer of 12 oz. biax. I substituted 2 layers of 10 oz. (0/90 cloth) and offset one layer 45 degrees to the centerline of the boat. This probably is a bit heavier than their recommendation but not much. And I do find the cloth easier to fill/fair than the biax. The bottom of the boat came out VERY stiff between the internal structural grid and the glassed plywood. Looking back on the build I see the greatest opportunities for building lighter in using okume rather than meranti plywood. This would save 25% of the core weight instantly. The two heaviest pieces of the build are the cockpit sole (around 68 lbs. for the meranti plywood alone) and the transom lamination ( maybe 40 lbs in the meranti). Keep in mind that the okume is MUCH more expensive in most places though.
If I were buying all the material I would use the 12 oz. biax for sure. If cost were less a factor I would use the okume plywood.
I made a few other changes to the boat for personal reasons like leaving out the motorwell bulkhead and relocating the "A" frame a bit forward. I will be adding a bulkhead in front of the transom over the winter but it will be further aft (closer to transom) than the design shows. I understand Jacques' concerns about this but have decided to trust my own judgement. I would follow the plan unless you have some compelling reason not to in this area.
Performance is still very good considering the low power I'm using. Boat cruises with 2 adults aboard at 18-20 mph (15-17 kts) using just a bit more/less than 2 gallons per hour. Not bad for a 20 year old 2 stroke. The boat tracks and steers very nicely and handles a bit of chop well. It's interesting how the boat transitions from low speed to planing. There's very little change in trim at all; a few degrees at most. The boat just goes faster progressively; smoothly between 8 mph and 24 or so.
I had considered powering with as little as 20 hp originally. I would not try this now unless the boat was tiller steered and built very lightly; say 450 lbs. (less engine only) or less. I think that 25-40 hp is perfect of the boat. If I were buying a now motor for a center console build I would strongly consider the 30 hp Evinrude Etec at around 175 lbs. I think the 40 hp 4 strokes (at around 240 lbs.) are too heavy for the back of this boat.
I'll be adding more information as I get it together like the finished weight etc.
Hope this helps a bit and good luck with the build.
Bill
FS17
FL14
Re: FS17 in Connecticut
Bill,
how in the h**l did i miss this??? Major Congrats on your splash sir!! boat looks great!! love to know some more numbers and overall feel of the boat when you've had more time to play with it. Oh, and of course more pics.
Mike
how in the h**l did i miss this??? Major Congrats on your splash sir!! boat looks great!! love to know some more numbers and overall feel of the boat when you've had more time to play with it. Oh, and of course more pics.
Mike
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Re: FS17 in Connecticut
Just saw the paint and splash pictures. Nice! Someone looks happy.
Re: FS17 in Connecticut
I missed it too! I've been watching this build and somehow missed the launch! Nicely done Bill!!! Boat looks great! Congrats!
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Re: FS17 in Connecticut
Wow, I really like what you did with the shear line. Would you be willing to share how you did it if I ever get around to building an FS17?
- remedy32
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
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Re: FS17 in Connecticut
Thanks GPO,
Actually I think that I've detailed it pretty well earlier in this thread but if not I would be happy to repeat. I really like the boat in most every way. The biggest thing I might change if I were starting over would be to stretch it by 10% in length only making her almost 19 ft. In it's present form the 25 2 stroke works well. I think the perfect motor would be 30-40 hp while still being light; maybe the Evinrude Etec 30.
bill
Actually I think that I've detailed it pretty well earlier in this thread but if not I would be happy to repeat. I really like the boat in most every way. The biggest thing I might change if I were starting over would be to stretch it by 10% in length only making her almost 19 ft. In it's present form the 25 2 stroke works well. I think the perfect motor would be 30-40 hp while still being light; maybe the Evinrude Etec 30.
bill
- remedy32
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 575
- Joined: Fri Aug 22, 2008 9:03 pm
- Location: Old Lyme, CT
- Location: Old Lyme, CT USA
Re: FS17...Model Sailing Support
Cool fall weather arrived today in CT just in time for the first sail of my son's 65" stitch and glue model sailboat. FS17 was ready and able to track the model down as we zipped back and forth on Rogers Lake in Old Lyme, CT.
Bill
Bill
- gstanfield
- * Bateau Builder *
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Re: FS17 in Connecticut
Wow, that's the coolest model boat I've ever seen. I thought mine was cool with twin inboards, but it's nothing compared to that one
Previous builds: FL14, NC16, and others...
Current build: FL14 (+10%)
Current build: FL14 (+10%)
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- Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2003 1:00 am
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- Location: Now a much longer sail to Tampa Florida! Back to NC, Youngsville FM05tw
Re: FS17 in Connecticut
Nice... now he can build the next one with a scale of one inch equals one inch.
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