"La Flaca" FS18

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brianincc
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Re: New FS18 Build

Post by brianincc »

The lowered sheer looks great I wish I would have done that with mine.

doubleup
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Re: New FS18 Build

Post by doubleup »

Messing around with some platform ideas with photoshop and paint. I want to get one custom made that sits pretty far forward but still able to control the tiller ok. Also don't want a tall one either.
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I like this one
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sitandfish
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Re: New FS18 Build

Post by sitandfish »

doubleup wrote:...I want to get one custom made that sits pretty far forward but still able to control the tiller ok. Also don't want a tall one either.
I like your thinking on both accounts. Your drawing looks really good. Shine came very close with his tiller on his low shear FS17. He said 3/16". :lol:
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Edited to add:
Butt high always seems the best hight. You get enough height to steer while you are scouting tailing fish and well... there is that butt thing. It hits you right. :wink:

Too low and the tiller might hit if you stand and steer.
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doubleup
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Re: New FS18 Build

Post by doubleup »

Got back to Texas for a weekend and pushed ahead with some of the build. I had the boat deck side up but decided to flip and try and finish the outside hull part of the boat. I applied 3 coats of graphite/epoxy mix to the bottom of the hull. It applied a little weird and there are some tiny little bumps in some spots but its characteristics of being scratch resistant makes up for it. Not a fan of black but I'm going to keep it black on the bottom because of the scratch issue. Also put 4 coats of high build epoxy primer on the sides and have a few colors in mind for the topcoat. Lenco trim tabs arrived as well as a moeller in deck 12 gallon gas tank that will mount in the front. I also finished puting the bouyancy foam in the sole and put extra in the back corners and bow to really cork her. I've realized that storage space is going to be minimal but I pack light and 99% fly rod only (Life jackets, tiny anchor, fly boxes, fly rods, maps, rain jacket, hand held radio, and wading boots) plus I'm mounting a small yeti cooler in the center.

I was going to glue the sole and decks down but am interested in some composite materials for decking like that plascore material. Is it really strong and light? Would it be a smart idea for all of my decking? Can I glue and glass it and is it easy to cut to shape? What thickness compared to okume plywood?
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Another big jump is my new motor that I recently purchased! I bought a bran new 25hp Mercury Sea Pro 20" shaft tiller outboard. Super stoked about it. One bummer is that it recieved shipping damage and the cauling, engine cover, was cracked pretty bad on arrival. Also on inspection I noticed what looks like small water intakes on the bottom of the cone of the lower unit that isn't on other non sea pro mercs.

The transom is 21" right now and I will cut it into a better shape once I decide on what I want to do...So here is my next big question? I don't have trim and tilt but I have trim tabs. And I plan on buying a 4 blade cupped stainless prop. What would make this boat perform skinny and logical, a jack plate(manual or electrical) or a trim and tilt unit. Both have set back which is good but to much will sink my skinny width in the back more. I will primarily be fishing lots of skinny water in Texas.

doubleup
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Re: New FS18 Build

Post by doubleup »

Getting closer, flipped hull, dry fitted trim tabs, cut transom to shape, installed fuel tank, cut out plascore, glassed one side of plascore, and made front deck bigger by adding another frame to make a decent size storage.

Here's the instalation of the fuel tank. I custom made some aluminum brackets that bolt to the stringers
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Poured bouyancy foam around the tank, it feels super solid, and will be a pain to get out if I ever have to.
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Dry fitted the 9X9 standard Lenco trim tabs. I found them new on ebay and was afraid that I might need the edge mount version instead but they fit good.
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A cut the transom to a nice curve. You can see the plascor deck cut out and dry fitted. The sides are just primered.
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I'm going to put bouyancy foam under the white plascore below the rear deck and have a little bilge area right behind it. I've decided that I will groove out a little area in the rear of the sole for the water to drain through a tube in the foam under the plascore and drain into the bilge. No self bailing deck, will have bilge pump.
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Dry fitted plascore decks. Made gunnels skinnier, still not sure how I want them.
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High build primer and graphite bottom. Really digging the lowered sheer.
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Ordered 4 blade cupped stainless powerteck prop to compliment the jack plate.

Also planning on putting a small tiller console like Ankona's in the center to mount trim tab, jack plate, nav light switches and also have a grab rail on it. I'd also like to put my battery in that little console. I didn't make a chase tube for the console but I can shave the foam and still put one in. And a small yeti mounted in front of that.

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Cracker Larry
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Re: New FS18 Build

Post by Cracker Larry »

Your build is looking great, except for this, which also looks good, but isn't :wink:
Poured bouyancy foam around the tank, it feels super solid, and will be a pain to get out if I ever have to.
A plastic fuel tank should never be completely foamed in place. They expand significantly when filled with fuel and you have to leave room for expansion in length and width, or something is going to break. Doing it like that is a violation of USCG requirements and will void the tank warranty.

This is from Moeller..
IMPORTANT: Do not use foam to secure tank in place. Resin fuel tanks require a multidimensional expansion area of 2-3% at all times; foaming a tank in place removes the chance for hydrocarbon expansion and will void tank warranty.
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose

Uncle D
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Re: New FS18 Build

Post by Uncle D »

I read in one of the earlier post that you didn't like the black color of the hull. I did the same on mine. I think if you want to go with color, just add high build primmer and paint right over the graphite.

doubleup
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Re: New FS18 Build

Post by doubleup »

Cracker Larry wrote:A plastic fuel tank should never be completely foamed in place
Knowing that the warranty would still be void, would it be o.k. to shave the foam down half way or more of the tank and still leave some foam around the bottom to help secure it?

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johna
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Re: New FS18 Build

Post by johna »

Boat is looking good. I'm a couple months behind you with my FS18. Thanks for the posts. Very helpful to see what is coming up next.

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Cracker Larry
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Re: New FS18 Build

Post by Cracker Larry »

would it be o.k. to shave the foam down half way or more of the tank and still leave some foam around the bottom to help secure it?
Yes, I would remove it more than halfway down, close to the bottom. Just trim back about 1 1/2" all around. Some foam left around the corners and end seams will be fine to secure it, most of the expansion will occur in the center of the tank sides in a bulging manner.

It's somewhat of a conundrum in that the USCG requires that the tank be secured so that it cannot move more than 1/4" in any direction including up, but it must also have 5% expansion space all around it :doh: Your aluminum straps look very secure and meet that requirement, but a little foam around the edges won't hurt a thing 8)

I'll mention also in case you don't know, that compartment will need to be vented with 2 vents, one as high as possible, one as low as possible. See this for reference... http://www.uscgboating.org/regulations/ ... partg.aspx
FEDERAL LAW

183.620 - Natural ventilation system

(a) Except for compartments open to the atmosphere, a natural ventilation system that meets the requirements of Sec. 183.630 must be provided for each compartment in a boat that:

(5) Contains a non-metallic fuel tank:

(i) With an aggregate permeability rate exceeding 1.2 grams of fuel loss in 24 hours per cubic foot of net compartment volume, or

(ii) If the net compartment volume is less than one cubic foot, having a permeability rate exceeding 1.2 grams of fuel loss in 24 hours.

NOTE: Reference Fuel "C" at 40 degrees Celsius plus or minus 2 degrees Celsius from ASTM standard D 471 (incorporated by reference, See Sec.183.5) is to be used to determine the permeability rate.


OPEN TO THE ATMOSPHERE

Compartments that are open to the atmosphere do not require additional ventilation.

All plastics and fiberglass will permit gasoline and its vapors to pass through them. This capability of the material is termed permeability. The permeability rate is the quantity of gasoline that passes through the material in a specific length of time or per unit of net compartment volume. See 183.605 of this guideline for a discussion of how to determine net compartment volume.

The permeability rate of a material is affected by the thickness and density of the material. The temperature at which the test is conducted may also have an effect on the permeability rate. The conditions and standard procedures of the test must be controlled when conducting the test.
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose

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