"La Flaca" FS18

[doubleup]

Ran a chase tube for the tiller console I'm installing that will house a battery, etc. Also laid down some 3/8in wood down the center for the ice chest mounts

Dry fitted the jack plate and motor. It looks really tall and kind of wish that I would of found a 15inch motor rather than this 20inch, which actually looks more than 20. The transom seems really strong with it all together. I heard that for every inch of set back on the jack plate the cav plate of the motor can go above the transom a half an inch. So with 4inches of set back on the plate I could mount the motor with the cav plate 2inches above the bottom. I ended up mounting it with the cav plate an inch above the bottom but I'll have the 5inches of lift with the jack plate to find a sweet spot and be able to run a little shallower. The atlas micro jacker that a bought has a clamp on motor adapt plate that I bought and It fits wierd and wasn't able to clamp the motor. Had to add a piece of wood too. I'll take some better pictures next time I go back.



Glued down and glassed the plascore sole, no soft spots at all. The plascore gets really strong once both sides are glassed. Cut out some rod holders and sort of framed up the walkaround gunnels. Not pictured but I'm going to have three rod holder frame supports on each side to help strengthen the gunnels, now 6in wide. Also not picturet, I bought two aftermarket super flush aluminum framed hatches from Greatlakesskipper.com that were made for Mako Boats. I had to rearrange some of the deck supports to help fit and support those hatches that are 30in x 15in

Dry fitted the Livorsi navigation lights

Didn't get as much done as I planned but was only back in Texas for a few days. I should of took a lot more pictures but forgot along the way. Also not pictured that I did was finish the aft bilge area.

[Cracker Larry]

She is really looking good. I like that flush deck, might have to re-think mine and build it like that

[doubleup]

I'm moving along on my build and have been looking at rub rails on the internet. I don't know a lot about them and was wondering the pro/cons of semi rigid, flexible, stainless, etc. The only sharp turn i have to do is the bow. Also heard that the flexible one's sometimes turn out a little wavy after installation. I'm leaning toward a rub rail with insert. Seen some uniflex rub rail kits with rope insert that looked pretty cool. The Uniflex is a semi-rigid/flexible combo to help keep a staighter look.

Any info helps.

[peter-curacao]

I'm nut sure but a rubrail over a rubrail? If it was me I only put some ss trim on it

[Bayport_Bob]

I used Taco #809 Flexible Rubrail kit. Includes SS crews & insert. I heated the roll up in hot water and used a heat gun for wrapping around the bow on mine.

[Cracker Larry]

I plan on using that same rail on mine. I used a larger version on my OD with the same technique Bob mentioned. If it's cool out you have to warm it up good to stretch it.

I'm nut sure but a rubrail over a rubrail? If it was me I only put some ss trim on it

The wood rub rail is structural and necessary to the boat, but you don't want to beat it up anytime you bump against something. The heavy rubber rail absorbs impact and protects the boat, as well as any other boat you happen to pull alongside of. Think about this Peter. Would you want him to pull his boat alongside of your new, shiny CX25, with a stainless rubrail that would meet your hull about a foot above it's waterline and scratch an 18' gouge in it?

[peter-curacao]

The wood rub rail is structural and necessary to the boat, but you don't want to beat it up anytime you bump against something. The heavy rubber rail absorbs impact and protects the boat, as well as any other boat you happen to pull alongside of. Think about this Peter. Would you want him to pull his boat alongside of your new, shiny CX25, with a stainless rubrail that would meet your hull about a foot above it's waterline and scratch an 18' gouge in it?

There's you saying something, But doesn't it get very bulky that way? I mean the wooden rubrail is already very thick, at that rubber rail over it wouldn't that look strange? I mean as far as I know most production boats what use those rubber rubrails don't have much but a deck hull seam under there not an extra rubrail.

I always thought of doing it this way, thought it looks classy but as I understand now not recommended if you wanna make friends on the water?

[Cracker Larry]

There's you saying something, But doesn't it get very bulky that way? I mean the wooden rubrail is already very thick, at that rubber rail over it wouldn't that look strange?

The wood part of the rail is only 3/4" thick, and the rubber rail less than that. To my eye, no, I like them bulky. Your styling preference is more European sleek. Just a matter of taste I reckon. But I usually go with function over style. This is at least better than a half dozen old tires, that's how we used to do it



The stainless rails look good on that Carolina hull, and it's fine if you like that, and you rig a few fenders before you pull up next to me. It won't take long for the metal to get dents all over it though.

[doubleup]

[doubleup]

Been super busy and splashed her on New Year's Eve. She's not done yet... still need to fair some more and all the other finish stuff, but threw a coat of primer on and went for it. Will post more pictures and detailed report tomorrow. All I have to say is that she is blew me a way. Super stoked!!