CV16 - Tight Budget

[Poker]

I guess this will be the build thread for our project.
I think we're going to call her "Tight Budget".

So far:
Plans ordered: Arrived
Meranti BS6566: Arrived
Epoxy kit: Arrived
Spars: Dwyer - to be ordered
Hardware: to be ordered
Sail: Poly Sail kit to learn - order in Aug..
Paint: Arrived
2 Books on sailing - being read! LOL

Build in Aug, launch in Sept.
Sails for Spring.

Updated (bold) 8/08/10

[Cracker Larry]

Welcome

Build in Aug, launch in Sept.
Sails for Spring.

Now that's ambitious

KS, what do ya think about that (Poker, if you don't know, KS8 has spent about 7 years on his CV16 ) Of course he did build in some extra doodads

[Poker]

Yeah .. I'm only on year one of KS8's build on the forum .... I suspect I can finish my boat before I can actually finish reading his build thread !!
For me this is a 'learning" boat ... I fully expect to make errors ...actually I already have, and was smartly smacked down by Jacques ! LOL

The next one will be my attempt at boat building paradise ... but I need to learn both building and sailing before launching on one of the VG projects.

[ks8]

Enjoy the build! I do highly recommend, if nothing else, the doodad of glassing the bottom. Well worth every penny. And consider the weight of any engine you might clamp on. It may or may not need the transom strengthened a little more than one sheet of ply thickness. Issues to consider while it easy to make any needful changes without having to sand away any finish system for the *upgrade construction*.

I haven't been on the computer much lately, but feel free to ask questions as you form them. I think I'll check once every 2 or 3 days, maybe 5 days max. I sure you'll really enjoy how she sails, as a *trainer*. Very forgiving and yet exciting when the wind do blow. When you order the sail, get at least one deep reef, or maybe two 3 footers added. When you get to that point, there are things to consider in how you cut the sail load slot in the mast, or if you use the bolt rope version of the sail plan, or sew on lugs instead. Lugs make it much easier to reef, but a full length bolt rope load might give a bit more efficiency, which you will appreciate in light air. At the speed you plan to build, those issues will come up soon. I could build much faster now, having learned to better project manage the necessary cure times of the epoxy. May you learn that quickly as you aim at your target splash.

[Poker]

ks8, thanks for the reply and encouragement.
yes, I already have questions !
I should get my plans tomorrow, so I'll be on here with a boat load (pun intended !) of questions once I have a chance to see them.
Off hand, I have a few:

I think you have a Dwyer mast .. Did you fill w/ flotation foam ?

Someone mentioned the Epoxy kit has enough fabric to glass the bottom, but it may be 6oz ... is this enough for a sandy/muddy bottomed lake ?

Any areas of the construction that are particularly tricky ?

Center board - where did you get your lead ? is it lead shot from a gun shop ?
Is it easy enough to just make a shot/epoxy filler thick paste and fill hole that way ?

I'm sure more questions to follow once I see the plans.

[Poker]

First question regarding the plans:
Study plans say 5 sheets 1/4" & 4 of 3/8"
BOM on page one of building notes say 8 sheets 1/4", 1 of 3/8", 2 of 3/4" ??????
Nesting diagram shows 6 sheets of 1/4", 3 sheets of 3/8" ?????
Instructions say to double up bow transom and transom from 3/8" to 3/4" or use 3/4" ????
Need to know what ply to order......... Any idea ?

it looks to me like I need the 6 sheets 1/4", 3 sheets of 3/8".
Onlt question is will the bow transom and transom be strong enough w/ single 3/8's sheet ?

[chicagoross]

I suspect I can finish my boat before I can actually finish reading his build thread !!

I think we all can!

[tech_support]

go by the nesting, it shows the pieces laid out.

In many cases we use two layers of ply to build thickness, so two layer of 3/8" makes 3/4". This allows more efficient use of wood. If you have the 3/4" piece, you could not cut any other pieces from that sheet, only the transom. By cutting two layer sof 3/8" we then have the rest of those sheets for other parts that need 3/8". Not to mention its easier for people to find a supplier with 2 thicknesses vs. 3

[Poker]

go by the nesting, it shows the pieces laid out.

In many cases we use two layers of ply to build thickness, so two layer of 3/8" makes 3/4". This allows more efficient use of wood. If you have the 3/4" piece, you could not cut any other pieces from that sheet, only the transom. By cutting two layer sof 3/8" we then have the rest of those sheets for other parts that need 3/8". Not to mention its easier for people to find a supplier with 2 thicknesses vs. 3

Ok, if I go w/ the nesting, there's only one transom and bow transom shown on the 3/8's ply nesting .. instructions say to double up, especially if mounting over 3HP outboard - I'll likely mount a 5HP .. am I going to need to order an extra 3/8 sheet just to double up the transoms, or are they OK at single 3/8's thickness, and just a mounting board where the outboard would go ? ?

[jacquesmm]

BOM choices:
1. Nesting is my preferred one.
2. Study plans shows same total number of sheets but one sheet of 1/4" is replaced by a 3/8. That was an old nesting layout in which some framing parts were made from 3/8.

Transoms: a 3HP motor is more than sufficient, a 1.5 is perfect and with that motor, the 3/8" transom is fine.
There is enough scrap plywood to add some thickness to clamp the motor.
If you want to use a large motor, you must double the thickness of the transom.
That means you must either buy a sheet of 3/4" or another sheet of 3/8 and double.
Once you have that extra sheet of 3/8, you can double the bow transom too.
On the plans, I always show my preferred layout. I do not like a large motor on that boat. It is not necessary.
You will not go faster with a 5HP.