Doc_Dyer's V10

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gstanfield
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by gstanfield »

Dang it man, that sucks :( You do know we were all just kidding with you in fun right? :D

FWIW, I had the same issue using my cheap exterior wood on my FL14. I also thought I would be smart and save some money on zip ties and buy a bag of cheap ones instead of using my "good" ones. Well it was about 20degrees F in the shop when I stitched it. I then turned on the heater and went back inside for a couple hours. When I came back to the shop I had plywood on the ground and broken ties everywhere. Luckily I had not put any glue on it yet :D

I wasn't going to tell anyone about that, but didn't want you to feel alone so there you go, you're not the only one to have issues wth tie breakage :D

Looks good now though 8)
Previous builds: FL14, NC16, and others...

Current build: FL14 (+10%)

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Doc_Dyer
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by Doc_Dyer »

no worries about the kidding... I have VERY thick skin... one must when one jabs as much as I do 8)

yea it sucks, but it is not the end of the world or the end of this boat...

got to go to dance lessons for my wedding in 2 weeks... :oops: :roll: :roll: :roll:

but must make SWMBO happy...

thursday I will clean her up a little and rezip her.. this time put some fillet on the interior of the bow.
I plan on making a sailing version so the whole bow will be filled with foam and enclosed

Bradley

edit: well the rest of the boat looks great and is holding fine
. sanded on a canoe, bought a used boat, stayed at a holiday inn last night

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gk108
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by gk108 »

If you can, try to pull the panels as close to being in place as you can while you wait for Thursday. That will make them easier to pull into final position when you get back to it.
CC, D15, V10

ks8
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by ks8 »

I had to *train* my Doug Fir panels for two weeks with humidty and jigs and weights, before they would make the bends to the bow transom and stay put without ripping stove wire out through the drilled holes. There's four wrappings still in there under all the glass and goo. I just think of them as permanent internal stitches. There's also around 4 layers overlapped in those areas now, and that's just on the outside. If something fails, that won't be it. :)

SmokyMountain
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by SmokyMountain »

got to go to dance lessons for my wedding in 2 weeks...
I think you said "dance lessons" and your boat puked :D :D . HA HA HA HA ...

I woud put a few fiberglass strips to along with the fillets just for a little extra peace of mind. Let me know if you need help.

Andrew

alexbalex

Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by alexbalex »

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage ... 985&pos=12

That's how mine looked like - 5 mm Okoume plywood for the hull panels, wetted them with water and used copper wires. Well, mine is a V-12 and the bending is not so severe :D But you will manage to get it in shape, just keep trying :D

Alex

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Cracker Larry
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by Cracker Larry »

BANG

8O Dangit man. I think I'd cut a short piece of 2X4 to match the stem angle from the inside, and shoot a couple of drywall screws in it.
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose

ks8
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by ks8 »

II like CL's idea, maybe using flathead screws with fender washers, so they don't pull through the plywood under the strain. Since I'm planning a V12 or C12, I've got to remember this myself. :wink:

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Doc_Dyer
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by Doc_Dyer »

ill try my arms first, if that doesn't work, then I'll try
CL's fix with the wood backing. but if I get it in place then I will glass the front with some temp glass strips
. sanded on a canoe, bought a used boat, stayed at a holiday inn last night

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tech_support
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Re: Doc_Dyer's V10

Post by tech_support »

wow, that's a surprise. A bow mold would help, we used one on the FS12 which was 6mm mernati. I was looking for a picture of it, bu the only one I found was this, you can barely see it up there in the bow

Image

We attached it to a scrap 2x4 screwed to the first mold/frame.
You can also use some copper wire, which is more the old school way of doing it

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