Seacraft 23

[tech_support]

Joel, when you say it needs more glass, are you saying the box stringers are too thin? What should a typical thickness and/or dimension (if there is such a thing) for box stringers be?

Its function of the hull thickness, which is a function of panel spans and loads. So there is not a "typical" per se, but there are rules of thumb that are just about as accurate as doing the calculations.

For the seacraft, I could do some calculations to determine this, but I dont need to any of this if I assume the original ones were thick enough, so I build to that thickness (at least).

[wadestep]

Sorry I'm a little slow here - the good news is I got to spend my weekend with S3 yacht primer and the longboard

The fuel tank capacity is 135 gals. I'll measure it's distance from the transom, but I'll likely only be able to get you the distance from the transom to the aft of it. it is almost centered exactally under the console.

My motor is on the transom. I've seen others on a bracket with an enclosed transom, and that is a more desirable setup in many ways.

Measurements coming soon (I'm at work right now) for the tank location, console location, waterline from keel at transom, and exact livewell capacity.

I have 2 batteries in the console, along with the resevoir for the trim tabs. An option is to put in fresh water tank in the console also, I don't have.

Livewells - I have 2 - one is about 6-7 gallons with a standpipe in the starbord stern. This is fully elevated above the sole, so it drains right overboard. However, it's really too small to do much good, unless the water is cold, and I've only got about 20 or less pinfish. Mostly useless for shiners/whitebait. This is supplied by a washdown pump that can either run this livewell or a hose. Exact same compartment in port stern, not plumbed.

The second livewell is in-deck, right behind the helmseat/rocket launcher. It is HUGE - really almost too big. I'm going to figure it out someday, but 6, 5gallon buckets full (30 gal) is less than 2/3 full. Because of it's location low and aft, it keeps everything alive. I've had days with 5-6 keeper grouper in it, and 100 other baits, and everything is healthy as can be. The bad news is that it makes the boat ride like a dog in seas, cuts your MPG, and because it is below the sole, you have to pump it out. It fills up with rainwater whenever it rains, and you have to close the seacock to the passive drain in order for it not to fill on it's own. It will just barely passivly drain with a 700GPH baitwell pump filling it. Finally, with 2 people sitting at or aft of the console and this well full, the boat is still safe but just barely self-bails in seas. The sole is as low as you want it, a 1/2 to 1" higher may have been better (on my boat, maybe heavier than the one you're rebuilding)

I'll get you some more measuremnts in a day or so.

Thanks Wade, I do not know for sure if they have changed the boat. I will take you up on the offer of help

Could you let me know...

the distance of center of your fuel tank to the transom, and it capacity

if you motor hangs on the transom or a bracket, if bracket how far off transom.

Sole location: Since I dont know if they have changed the molds, can you give me the measurement of the waterline; bottom of the keel to WL at transom. I can figure the rest from there?

Center console location relative to transom

batteries in console or at transom

live well location and capacity

THANK YOU!

[tech_support]

thank you in advance for the measurments.

I have some other data from the classic seacraft site that will help me too.

The boat came with a nice molded baitwell for the transom, maybe 20 gallons. Im not decided to use it or not, its nice for fishing but not for weight. I like the idea of two wells though. I may put another 30 well under the deck for longer trips. I will be mounting a fresh water tanks and batteries forward. Fuel tank and console locations are where I will start.

We started tabbing in the core yesterday, 3 layer of 12 oz biax tape. First we filled the gap with epoxy woodflour/silica mix, after that tacked up we made a fillet all around, then followed up with 3 layers of biax tape, edges offset.

will post pictures tomorrow

[wadestep]

Here's the info:
"transom" = inside of transom (fwd face of transom)- not the liner

the distance of center of your fuel tank to the transom, and it capacity

transom to stern end of fuel tank= 46" (+/-1")
transom to to fwd end of tank = 147" ( +/-0.5")
so midpoint seems like 50.5"+46" = 96.5" fwd from transom.
Capacity is listed as 135. However, on the plate on the tank, it says:
Florida Marine Tanks Inc - Cap 146 gal. I have model and part number if you're interested.
Note: - there's 4-6" where they could have shifted the fuel tank forward - probably would have helped.

measurement of the waterline; bottom of the keel to WL at transom.

waterline to bottom of keel at transom is 18 1/8". This is based on a scumline from our last trip that I forgot to clean. We had a 1/3 full fuel, no baitwells, 2 people - very light trip.
the measurement from the keel to the sole is another 4.5" above the waterline - that surprised me. (I got this number by looking through the transom scupper and estimating - +/- 1/2")

Center console location relative to transom

back of console is 90" forward from transom, front is 132" forward. It has a seat in the front, this is to the front of the seat.

batteries in console or at transom

in console (2)

live well location and capacity

in deck livewell starts at 21" fwd of transom, extends to 40.5" fwd of transom. Because you asked, I finally got around to measuring it's capacity. I had the pump pump it out from full, into a 5 gallon bucket (I checked 5 gal is accurate). It is 45 Gal, and takes a 700 GPH pump 7.5' to empty it (without fish scales). That means my 700 GPH pump is only actually 360 GPH - with negligable head

I'm sure that's way too much info, but there I was, sitting on the boat with a beer in hand...
wade

[tech_support]

great info, thanks.

thats a big well and a lot of weight for a 23', I may scale it down or use two smaller tanks.

Also leaning towards two fuel tanks to help distribute weight, so long as I can find a decent deal on them.

[TomW]

This is going to be an interesting refurb!

[tech_support]

tabbed in the last layer of core yesterday, we use three layers of 12 oz biax tape. First step was to fill the gaps around the core with epoxy/woodflour/silica mix, we try to fill it flush so that when we come back with a fillet, we will have a consistent angle to work with. The three layers of tape were all done at once over a still tacky fillet (wet on wet)





We started cutting the glass out for the new inside skin. We will build up to 3/16". Each layer will over lap the previous. This first layer is 1810 biax, its on the heavy side for use with epoxy, but we had a few yards of scrap that I wanted to get ride of. The rest of the layers will be 1708, which is easier to wet out. We used the transom template (same one from before) and trace out the shape of the core, then add 4" all around (next layer we will add 6" and so on). Cut the corners so the glass will make the fold.





With any luck, we will get the inside skin complete tomorrow. The plan was to do all this work in cooler temps been 90+ in our warehouse this week

[tech_support]

On friday we got started on the new inside skin: 2 layers of 1810 plus 1 layer 17 oz. for a total of 73 oz of glass. We still need two more layers of 1708 or 1810 to have a final thickness of about 1/4"

We have to wet the mat side of the 1810 on a table, then transfer to the boat on rolls. After its in the boat, we we use spreader to place it, then add more epoxy to fully wet it out.

wetting out matt side


rolled up


placed on transom


wett out


2 layer 1810 and 1 layer 17oz

[Mad Dog]

Joel,
I read on one of the builder's threads you were considering putting the deck drains through the transom or maybe through the sides. My experience on the AS rebuild is that the side drains do not work out that well. I wanted large scuppers (2"x6") for quick drainage. Sole height was not quite enough so any list from moving around the deck lets water in. The large flappers do not actually seal. Also, those flappers get sucked open moving to and from planing. It's annoying, washes the deck, and sucks out docking lines. I keep wishing I had followed your AS method. Just my thoughts.

MD

[tech_support]

Thanks MD. I would use a "trap" if I used side suppers. They would be at the corner of the side/transom. It possible to do with no splashing, I will post a picture of what I have in mind if I decide to go that route. Its just an idea for now