Here is WHY you use good plywood! **UPDATE on pg 6 **

[gstanfield]

You can never have too many clamps.

[ks8]

John,

I have 6 oz on the exterior of my CV16, and 4 or 6 oz on the interior surfaces... all of them. ... Well sealed, faired, sealed, primed, mostly painted. Not a sign of checking or rot anywhere. Left some areas bright under the seats so I could inspect for problems there. None. ABout 3 years use now. BUt she is much heavier than spec. And btw, lives in shelter when not in the water, which doesn't hurt any (Even a good cover with healthy ventilation, is going to help). . I did my *testing of materials* with the CV16. Next gets excellent wood.

Unless one is prototyping for the campfire, I'd recommend good meranti without having to think about it at all, maybe even BS1088. THen you *know* you've got a good core, and any glassing over that is further protecting that solid core. IN other words, minimize the *hmmm, I wonder if my thumb can go through anywhere, after three years*.

[JohnC]

Hey ks8,
My thoughts are Meranti BS1088 with lots of glass. Building the FL14 not just for the learning curve but for something to be around for awhile. I'm still debating electric vs 2.5hp 4 stroke for power, there are merits to both. I'm working on a Microsoft Paint version of the FL14 now, I'll try to have that before too long (may take longer in MS Paint than the real thing! )
John

[ks8]

I'm working on a Microsoft Paint version of the FL14 now, I'll try to have that before too long (may take longer in MS Paint than the real thing! )

Everywhere one turns... learning curves...

Sounds like a plan. You may not need any more than 2.5 oz cloth on the interior, and if your laminations skills are up to the challenge, that will not add much weight at all, but will be a more durable protection for the core than epoxy alone. Maybe 6 oz on the bottom, and 4 oz on the outer topsides. The plans, I don't think have any of that in the schedule, and it will be more work and add some weight, but may go a long way in having it last long with less worries after occasional bumps and scrapes, but one should still inspect and dry out and repair *wounds* as soon as they are incurred and identified. If the schedule on the plans has only the tape seams and no cloth, then the design itself does not *need* any more, and if you add it, you have entered *option mod-ville*, and need to weigh the pros and cons, carefully. I've got 12 oz biax on the interior bottom hull panels of my CV16 cockpit and stomp around in there with no worries at all both on the water and on the trailer. Under the seats is only 4 oz weave. I paid for all that in additional epoxy and weight (lots), but I was protecting a less than ideal core, partly to prove it could be used (but as I have learned... could does not mean should) and wanted to stomp around with no worries at all in a hull that would hopefully outlast me. So far it is exceeding my expectations, but well over design weight, even though within an acceptable window of performance for me. Got lots of momentum to bring her through a tack!

Once understanding the schedule on the plans, you typically have two choices: 1- the lightest build per the plans, with perhaps more inspection for usage wounds, but better performance, or, 2- the *outlast a supernova with the Brooklyn Bridge and millions of globs of indestructable 5200* build, but this must be thought out carefully, as cost, weight, and certain aspects of performance will take a hit, even if the hull itself can now endure more of a hit. Version 2 or any version in between 1 and 2 deserves getting feedback from others before proceeding.

Enjoy that time in thinking chair, and those decisions.

[Steven]

I built my GV11 with Okoume BS1088. It has micro checks all over it the interior where there is no glass. Ugh!!!! Not happy, as I was planning on selling it when the OB is done in a couple months. I'll have to sand and cloth the hole thing to sell it in good conscience. I may do that with 3.25 oz. cloth and then Quick fair the entire inside. I'll fair and paint the seat tops. Glad I have no exposed wood on the OB that is not glassed.

[Larry B]

I built my GV11 with Okoume BS1088. It has micro checks all over it the interior where there is no glass. Ugh!!!! Not happy, as I was planning on selling it when the OB is done in a couple months. I'll have to sand and cloth the hole thing to sell it in good conscience. I may do that with 3.25 oz. cloth and then Quick fair the entire inside. I'll fair and paint the seat tops. Glad I have no exposed wood on the OB that is not glassed.

I didn't have that problem at all with my FL14 and I used Okoume BS1088 also. I didn't figure I did a Excellent job on it, so I gave it to a friend that needed a boat. He's still using it and probably will for a very long time. I put over 500 miles on it (in the water) in one year so it has been used. You figure the hours at 5 mph, not counting the anchor time which I usually spent all night on the lake.

[Steven]

I thought maybe it was the paint. I used Interlux one part. Decent paint. But all of them are in line with the grain.