C19 New pics of console and foredeck

[ericsil]

Whatever you do, don't throw any epoxy on that thing until those bulkheads are dead flat with the transom, or even a mm or two higher. The extra tape on the transom edge makes it hard enough to avoid hook without starting that way. You don't want to be able to slide a piece of paper under a straightedge on the back one third of your hull.

[TomD]

OK - spent all yesterday remeasuring and checking. I am using a centerline string for the measurements so I don't think a sagging strongback is the problem.

I re-measured and the gap was about 4mm - I raised that mold so that all the molds are lined up now. Not sure if this is the correct thing to do but unless someone jumps in and stops me it felt like the easiest solution and someone I feel relieved (if the C19 has a bow bulge Jacques please shout!).

I set the transom up so it is 2 mm lower than the motorwell bulkhead and I have also rebated the ply on the bottom for the tape - so hopefully will avoid hook.

Panels going on today - fingers crossed that I don't find something else to mess with!

[TomD]

OK - I have put the bottom panels on and added a frame to my "workshop" so that I can reach the wire ties! I have included photos and would appreciate some tips - seems to have gone together OK....

Just a little concerned that it has lifted off at molds D and E (towards the bow). Pics taken from underside of boat - Is this normal? I know "fairness" is the key - but should they contour the molds?




Also have I made a mistake by tightening the bottom panels before adding the lower side panels?

Here is a view from the transom end.



Can I glue the bottom and lower side panels before adding the top side panels or is it best to get the whole thing "boat shaped first"?

Any pre-fairing tips would be appreciated - we don't have quick fair here and its my least favourite topic...!!



Finally - I am still toying with the idea of a flared bow - will see how it looks tomorrow... If I decide to go for it how many molds back should I start - or should I stick with the front 5 feet or so? Still concerned how I will get it to follow the contour - so will have a good look at it tomorrow before jumping into the deep end! If anyone has any tips on how easily the panels follow a flare (eg CS builders) please let me know....

Finally if its appropriate Shine I would be happy to change this topic to TommyD C19 build...

[Cracker Larry]

I can help you with a couple of questions

Just a little concerned that it has lifted off at molds D and E (towards the bow). Pics taken from underside of boat - Is this normal? I know "fairness" is the key - but should they contour the molds?

Fairness of the hull panels is the key. Those frames will get pulled back out, the seams will get a few layers of tape, the bottom glassed over, and then when you reinstall the frames they will fit a lot closer. nothing epoxy won't fill. Carry on

You can change the topic title by going back to the first post and editing it

[TomD]

Thanks Larry ... that was easy!

[TomD]

I will post more pictures of todays progress - but a couple more questions now that I have the side panels on - would really appreciated some feedback as I feel like I have gone round in circles today and had wanted to start gluing!!!

1) Should I attempt to "pull the panels down" so that they sit against frames D and E - there is about a 1" gap between the point of the mold and where the panels join. I tried this earlier today and it made the bow really hard to stitch and seemed to push where the bottom panels meet the side panels off the mold... also I needed loads of stitches on the keel above molds D and E and in frustration with the bow I pulled all these out again and went back to scratch... Do I leave it and if so why did I put so much effort into getting the molds level!!!!

2) Should I start shaving bits off here and there? To be honest it all looks pretty good, where it not for the perfectionist in me not being really irritated that the panels won't sit on the molds I laboured over for so long!!!

3) The transom end for 4 feet or so looks pretty good and the whole thing seems symmetrical - but there is a definite bulge towards the bow above mold E (the 2nd from last towards the bow) and a little at D .... because of it not sitting on the molds. However when I tried pulling them against the mold I got a kink where I was pulling... so I added loads of stitches to keep a straight line which got rid of this but then I couldnt bring the bow together...

4) At the bow the side panels seem to meet a little bit in front of the bow mold - should I squeeze them against the mold or just leave it. There are some positions the panels just don't like.

I have read all the tutorials and numerous posts but can't find anything on the bow bulge or panels lifting off molds for the C19...

Please chime in .... so I can glue tomorrow!!!

[jacquesmm]

About the distance between the stern frames/molds and bottom:
this is almost certainly due to the fact that you don't have any gap at the keel, between the panels.
I don't see any gap in the pictures.
You need a gap!
Those panels can not take the proper shape if they push against each other.
You can create a gap either by moving the panels or by cutting a little bit, like 1/4" each side.

The panels must be free to "float". If the fight each other, it will be difficult to get a fair shape.

Solve that problem first: the bottom is what defines the performance of the boat. It must be fair and straight.

PS: I did not see your message because you posted in "non technical messages". I will move this thread to the correct forum tomorrow.

[jacquesmm]

Warning: possible confusion . . .
Station names are usually from the bow to the stern. The plans do not name the stations but it looks like you started from the transom.
My answer above is based on C and D being closer to the transom.

From your pictures, it looks like you have that bulge towards the bow between what I would call B and C.
In that case,no need to worry.
I would still make certain that there is a sufficient gap, that should improve the the shape but yes, there is often a bulge there.
Almost none with Okume which bend very easily but Meranti will not take that shape as easily and will get away from the molds a little bit.
You wrote 7 mm: that's fine as long as (as Larry wrote) that the panels are fair.

You asked a question about lining up the height of the molds: use the baseline.

Your mots important consideration before glassing is to have a bottom that is straight and fair.
Straight from the middle station to the transom.

[TomD]

HI Jacques, Thanks for the answers - yes I drew the frames starting with A at the transom going fwds....

Here are a few pictures - like I said I have tried to use as few stitches as possible and the panels all came together nicely - but they did not sit well on the molds nearest the bow (marked E and D for me or B and C as you stated). I have included a few pictures. When I did try to get them to sit on the molds they sort of "refused" to do other things like line up at the bow or meet the side panels so nicely. I have only put screws at the transom and only 1 per panel. Most of the panels seem to have a small gap between them.

Finally when you say straight and fair is that mainly at the transom section either side of the keel - as you go fwds towards the bow, the molds start having a curve - so I assume at this point it is not so important.







Still need to work on the bow and bottom to side panels...





View of underside of panels...

[jacquesmm]

Now that I know that the problem is towards the boat, I am not worried.
I still see a little overlap between panels close to the bow. If you cut that, it will improve.
For the gap between the molds and the panels, I would not worry as long as it is fair and happens only in the forward half of the boat.