C19 New pics of console and foredeck

[TomD]

Jacques,

Thanks for your help - I guess different woods all bend differently and it must be difficult to predict. I was just a little frustrated as I really made an effort on this build to have everything absolutely perfectly symmetrical, and measured, cut and planed to the line! I can live with a bulge in the front if it wont affect the performance....

[jacquesmm]

The bulge is small and does not affect performance.
All my settings for max. curvature are based on Okume but even with Okume differences appear due for example to humidity.
It is impossible to predict plywood bending with perfect accuracy but that doesn't matter. A straight run for the planing area and fairness all over is what counts.

[TomD]

OK - I have glassed the outside since I last posted and have filled the weave with epoxy and microspheres and silica (we can't get quick fair here!). I went over it very lightly with the Random Orbital sander before filling the weave.

A few lessons learned (or re-learned) -

1) I don't think it was worth re-bating all the edges for the tape - I don't think that it was worth the time and effort!
2) I should have spent a little more time fairing before adding the tape and cloth - although I was dying to move fwds I think that I may now have an awful lot of fairing work...
3) I lowered the transom (with the boat upside down) slightly to account for the tape/seams and now I think I have more filling that I expected, to get it level/fair....

Here are some pictures....





Now for all the questions!!!!

1) How fair is fair when it comes to performance at the transom end? How far fwds is the critical bit - I can see a few definite "wavy bits" - and that is not the perfectionist talking!
2) How much can I fill with resin before I should consider putting some cloth in there for strength?
3) Do I look for fairness horizontally, parallel to the keel and vertically parallel to the transom? Any tips on this bit would be great -

[wadestep]

Some thoughts for you:
1)The 'fairer' the better. I got mine (OB19) to less than the thickness of a US nickle = 2mm. To measure this I got an 8 foot straight edge and held it parallel to the keel, from the transom forward. At the worst spot, a nickle would almost fit under teh straight edge.
2) I had one area that started out as 4 mm indented (2 nickles would slide under the straight edge). I used cloth here 3 layers, each smaller than the last. Everything else I just used fairing.
3) By far the more important direction to get fairness is parallel to the keel. Imagine the boat running at 20 knots, you want the water to be speeding past a flat surface about 8 feet long at the keel. If it is not fair perpendicular to the keel, that's not the direction of water flow while running, and really doesnt' matter nearly as much. for example - people who put on strakes or keels certainly don't end up with a 'fair' hull perpendicular to the keel.
Hope this helps some,
wade

[TomD]

Wade thanks for your help - we are chugging away slowly mainly cos its cold (by our standards and pretty humid) and the epoxy is taking a while to cure.

After the initial enthusiasm/disappointment that everything wasn't as "fair" as I hoped (it never is with me) we are slowly progressing. 2 layers of epoxy mix over the weave and smoothing out the keel ridge so that we have a point of reference.

Gonna take longer than I hoped but a plan falling into place. Will keep you posted...

[TomD]

Three coats of graphite epoxy mix added on top of the lifting strakes and spray rail (which I kept as per the plans because I have already cut it out by the time I started thinking about a stepped chine and I thought I might as well just use it).



3 Coats of Jotun Penguard Hi Build primer sprayed on. Followed by 3 coats of Jutun HardTop on the bottom - only. Will paint the part above the spray rail once boat is flipped.



Now we glued in the bow eye and transom eyes and have rigged a pulley system to turn the boat. I am planning on adding the topside panels once the boat is flipped so that I can play with the sheer line and think about the paint scheme.




The green is pigment that I put in the different layers of epoxy to help find the high and low spots when fairing. The upper side panels will glue straight to this.

Thats all for now!

[TomD]

Bolted side panels on and used a square pvc pipe (used to conceal wiring in a house) to play with the sheerline a little bit. I then planed it down to the pencil mark I drew and unbolted it from the boat. I bolted it to the panel for the other side and planed them to match.




Then I glued both panels to the boat, using the original bolt holes I had drilled during dry fitting, and then adding dry wall screws to temporarily squeeze the glue line nicely.

The masking tape is to give me some idea of where my "wood finish" will start.

Hopefully tomorrow the molds can come out!

[Cracker Larry]

Very nice work Tom Looks great!

[topwater]

Tom the boat looks great Did you have any problem flipping the boat that way ?
I plan on flipping mine the same way this weekend. Was there much flexing or twisting
of the hull ?

[wegcagle]

Nice job. She is going to be an awesome boat when you are done

Will