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PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Fri Jul 08, 2011 2:48 pm
by PrometheusNL
Hello

I've been lurking around this forum and other boatbuilding forums for a while. I started looking around about 2 years ago into things i could build. I was looking into building a Replica AC cobra and figured out what i wanted to build got everything worked out but then the law changed and made my build impossible (aka Taxes and other stupid rules build budget times 3). But that's the Netherlands for you. Where there are even laws for anmials to go to the bathroom sigh.

So i kept looking into something other that i would be able to build. So after some brouwsing on the internet i found some mahog runabouts that i liked. So firstly i checked the Law and the polution regulations (I wasn't going to be unprepared for surprises) Good news everyone there are almost None :)


So that that then. Lets build something looking though the sites looks like stich and glue would be the best to get started into building. What i'd love to build is a LB 26 but i'm relalistic i have to start small and get the technique down so to start i ordered the plans for the FL12. This should get me started on the basics and prepare me for something bigger.

Status so far.
Plans ordered.
Tools ordered (splurged on some new BOSCH stuff)
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Garage ready for building.

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Stuff still to do.
Find an epoxy supplyer in europe.
Find a wood supplier after i have the BOM
Buy more clamps

Regards PrometheusNL

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Fri Jul 08, 2011 11:22 pm
by quadradomus
Just a heads up... clamps can get expensive, and you will need 3x more than you think you need. You can buy 3" diameter PVC. Cut it into 2" lengths. Then cut one slice through each piece of PVC that you now have. These will act as clamps. They can be used for when you put on your rub rail. You still will want some standard small sized clamps though..... I find that you need an "Adjustable" clamp or two at each end of rub rail pieces. This helps to hold the new rub rail perfectly to the top lip of the boat. Without such adjustable clamps, the pvc alone will kind of allow the rub rail to slide a little. Hope that makes sense.

Have fun with the boat. I am building the same one. :D

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2011 5:31 am
by PrometheusNL
Thanks for the Heads up. I had the PVC C clamps option already noted down. I've been keeping a list of do's and don'ts from other builders. I already have 2 pages full so keep em comming.

Today i found another couple of handy tips. By StuAsh:

1) Butt blocks - make sure you cut them in the right direction so the "mystery wood - ie the inside wood of a 3 ply sheet" isn't taking the load. So for the side butt blocks, cut them so the grain of the outer wood is running along the length of the boat
2) Don't hurry with the fibreglass taping - make sure you are happy with the shape underneath it before you put the glass on.
3) If using metric boards (I live in Australia) you will have to be creative laying out the panels as they don't quite fit in the same places as the imperial boards. Cut out the big bits as per the plan and then cut out the pieces from largest to smallest.
4) Don't skip in the quality of your ply - you will spend much more money on epoxy and invest a LOT of time. Get the best wood you can afford.
5) Buy lots of cheap paintbrushes - I used between 30 and 40 as most of my mixes were between 100ml and 400ml.

Now it's on to hunt down a epoxy supplier.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 6:46 pm
by NW Trout
Build a FL14.... I like my FL12, but would like more room. Cost difference is fairly minimal.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 6:12 am
by PrometheusNL
Would have been an option i can understand about the room and it will proablly be more stable. But i've already ordered the plans and the idea was to get a good grasp of building a stich and glue boat to move up to a more sporty / bigger model after getting this Proof of Concept (aka can i build it) out of the way.

Then i'll probably use the small FL12 for short hops around the pond here and build my bigger boat while using the small one.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 5:00 pm
by vla
Welcome PrometheusNL.

Always nice to greet a new Dutch builder. Succes with the build, it is an adventure!
One advice, be careful with the plywood. Don't buy WBV, they are suitable for outside use, but not fot boatbuilding! I have a bad experience with those sheets.

Allard

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:01 pm
by NW Trout
PrometheusNL wrote:i'll probably use the small FL12 for short hops around the pond here and build my bigger boat while using the small one.
That will likely be the destiny for my FL12 as well when I start on a larger boat later this year - or next (still waiting on spousal approval for lost evenings in the shop for the winter).

Good luck with the build. You'll find a wealth of information and input here from other builders.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 6:22 am
by PrometheusNL
I think this will be an invaluable experiance building a smaller boat like the FL12 before starting a bigger boat like a RB16 (that's the intermediate boat i want) and the dream boat LB26.

Don't tell my wife but i plann to build those in that order. I'm selling her on boating slowly by increments :D I'm currently at the stage if it has a sunn deck i'm cool with it. Hoping to progress to.. I love the sunn deck and the speed. But i would love a Cruiser that we can sleep on and still waterski behind :D

I'm not to worried about the plywood. I have a specific order out for Okume Marine grade plywood via my brother. He's in the building trade and has connections to get the good stuff and not get fooled. I told him what i needed and he's sure he can get the exact specifications for me or better.

Had email contact with Allard aka Vla (Stoere Meid TW28) he pointed me to some good supplyers here in the Netherlands so it's great progress for this week.

Got the planns in 2 days ago studying them in depth cross checking figures and such. It's looking good for a start within a couple of weeks.

Thanks for all the tips and help

Marijn

Learning a new Skillset.

Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 8:54 am
by PrometheusNL
Got the planns in a couple of days ago.

After getting everything together printing out the linked pdf and putting it all together i brewed a nice hot pot of coffee and set out to work. This will be the first time reading real building planns besides the odd plastic model kits i used to make planes, boats, cars, etc.

After looking though the set of planns you start to worry ... can i do this? Why doesn't he give a measurement here or Why no curve defined there. How am i supposed to cut that piece. All the measurements are in Gallons but they sell Epoxy in KiloGrams here. With every new detail you see you awnser 1 question but get 2 more pop into your head. Most annoying question for me was how will i be able to cut these parts without knowing their size?

So what i did is let's build it 100th scale for every dimention given devide by 100 and make it out of cardboard. So i started drawing and cutting out of cardboard and before i knew it 1 hour later i had all the parts. Thinking to myself this can't be that easy can't it? Alot became clear after making it out of cardboard you don't need the other dimentions they resolve themselves.

Some tape later and we have a boat.

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So now i'm confident i can build the boat. Lets get the marerials ordered :)

Found epoxy
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Found hardner
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Found Glas tape
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PLY will be ordered next week.

Still looking for some odds and ends like vapor/dust mask mixing stuff and proabablly another tonn of materials i have forgotten.

Made a Picasa Google album for quicker upload and image control.

And created a Signature.
Pretty productive week i like it.

Prom

Another week gone.

Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 4:59 pm
by PrometheusNL
What to do what to do i keep looking at the plans having time on my hands but no wood yet. Small Snafu with the ordering. Ahh well it is to be expected. So i did some remodeling in the garage added some extra power sockets should come in handy when working on the boat. Finalized the buying list for stuff i still need. I do however have some verry thin plywood. 3.4 mm hmm what could i do with that...

Well make another model ofcourse :) So i started Saturday a week ago cutting out the plywood. I figured i'd make it 1 / 5th scale. This should give me nice workable parts and resonable bending of the plywood used.

First i cut out all the parts:
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Then i had to figure out how will i build it. I don't have epoxy yet so i'll use a Caulk gun with some Filling all purpose glue this should give me the (Fillet) feel.

Built the parts up as per drawings doing a dry fit run.
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The tollerances are much tighter since i'm using 1/5th scale so i won't be able to get it 100% correct but i can sand some errors out and mold some glue to fill the biggest mistakes.
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Fitting the center seat was a bit of a problem and this was the first problem i ran across during this model build. Since i din't have to glue the larger panels together with butt blocks i din't have a guide to go one to place the center seat. I then cut out the bottom butt block and glued it on the bottom to serve as a guide and to stiffen up the bottom for putting her together. This worked out pretty good.
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I let the glue dry overnight and started the next day after work to glue in the transom seat and the Bow seat. This crated some tension in the build cracking one glue fillet on the middle seat. But not so bad i couldn't fix it with some extra glue.

Leaving it to dry overnight.

She's all together rough glued (forgot to take pictures a good lesson this before i start the build for real keep the camera close) now starts the sanding part. i sanded all the glue filets smooth and created lots of dust everywhere. Then got out the random orbit sander and went to town on the outside removing the stitches and filling holes left by the stitches and sanding those back again. SWMBO is gonna love me when she see's all the mess i made :D

Kept on sanding smoothing and filling in the worst holes with the calking glue getting a smoother and smoother finish. Then i started on the Rubrail. I was thinking of fitting the skeg and rubrail later but i probablly won't get a nice glue on both so i would ruin my finish so i'll do them now.

first i cut out some Plywood strips with the jiggsaw but in this scale it's hard to get the smooth cut. So i went with mixing sticks i had lying around and fabricated a 3 ply rubrail.
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And a closeup of the bow:
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I also went out today and got the supplies i need for the real boat :)
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Tomorrow i'll sand the rubrail and whatever else needs sanding. I still have some spray cans laying around so i can give her some color and this gives me a chance to figure out my paint scheme for the full version.

So what do you guys think is this resonable for a first time builder? Or should i practice more before i start on the full size FL12? If the plywood ever arrives :)

I do plann to build a case from some plywood and strengthen it with fiberglass and epoxy to get a working knowlage of that.

Laterz,

Prom

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 5:17 pm
by gstanfield
Looks good :D I guess you could build full size, or you could go ahead and build it at 1/2 scale next then finally step up to full size :P :lol:

I say go for it :!:

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 5:26 pm
by Cracker Larry
So what do you guys think is this resonable for a first time builder? Or should i practice more before i start on the full size FL12?
No, you've already got more practice than most beginners :D You've got it figured out, go for it. Somebody here will help if you have a problem.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Sat Jul 30, 2011 7:39 am
by PrometheusNL
Thanks guys!

As soon as the ply gets here i'm hitting the ground running. Until then model making lol :P Half scale you crack me up :P

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Sat Jul 30, 2011 10:59 am
by gstanfield
:D just be sure to have fun 8)

Re: Another week gone.

Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 4:24 pm
by vla
PrometheusNL wrote:So what do you guys think is this resonable for a first time builder? Or should i practice more before i start on the full size FL12? If the plywood ever arrives :)
Prom,

Stop playing and start building the real thing! There's only one way to learn a thing and that is by doing it. Working with epoxy is really not difficult. Did you also buy that epoxy Lijm 700? I find it very easy to to work with, to make fillets and to fill gaps. Highly recommended.
I hope soon to hear from you that you really started.
Oh, I forgot, but I'll sent you what I promissed.

Allard

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 12:13 pm
by PrometheusNL
Hi Allard,

Nope i haven't started yet i'm stuck without plywood that's sutable for building. It should have been ordered but the place that was going to supply it did not have the quality required and specifications where totally wrong so we canceled that order. I went to Poly service because it's pretty local to me and got a great discount i forgot to get the 700 Glue so i'll try mixing my own and try it out later when i need some more. Or if i totally fail at mixing my own sneak out and get a tub of the stuff.

I'm keeping busy though cleaning up the garage so i can start building quicker and getting everything set up for easy acces when i'm building. This longer wait gave me a chance to build the model. And during the model i learnt to take it easy don't finish the boat in 50 hours straight but take your time. I'll upload some pics soon when i get them from the cam. The model is done not the best of finishes but workable.

Prom

All done!! should i splash it in the bathtub?

Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:05 pm
by PrometheusNL
Well the model is atleast.

Where did we leave off. Ohh yess the rubrail needed finishing and loads and loads of sanding. I used mixing sticks for this and practiced to create a glued together rubrail from small sticks one that i'll have to do on the bigger model too. I noticed some sticks and began to sag and left me with a little uneaven surface so back to sanding it smooth to get all the bumps and dips out.

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It actually worked out great i got to use all the clamps i had to hold down the rail while gluing it all together. Good practice because i wanted to move to fast and ran out of hands to press it all down. Then you figure out a way to make it work by going slowly. The sagging problem should be less since i won't be glueing the whole combined rail at once in the bigger version.

And an overview of the rubrail all sanded smooth.
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Sand and fill some more.

Time for some tape around the rubrail.
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After masking tape comes primer :)

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Needed more filler wasn't happy with the finish
And sanding ofcourse.
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Time for some color.

Inside was painted white first. Then masked off for outside blue. and bottom Black. Then Painted rubrail Teak color.

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Now for the finished product.

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Al in all good fun and now i have something to look at and show the family.The never could beleave i wanted to build a boat. I think they now know i'm serious :)

My whife also kinda gets now that im serious and saw me work on the small boat with a verry small dremel imitation 12 volt multi purpos tool. She offered to buy me a bigger version after seeing how much use the little one was getting. So actually using your tools in front of SWMBO gets you new tools :)

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Quotes on ply tomorrow :)

I also like creating posts on the forum showing build progress and slapping pictures in the thread. Good fun to look back though it and see your own journey into the world of boatbuilding.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 3:15 pm
by vla
Prom,

Are you building your boat in a garage? Then it seems convenient that you mou nt wheels back under your strongt. Then you can sand outside teh garage (that prevents a quarrel!). If you use nose wheels of a caravan, you can easy level the whole lot again. I did that too, when I was building my first boat.

Allard

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 2:59 am
by PrometheusNL
There's Method in that maddness of sanding in a garage. See this boat i can build in the garage and have enhough space left for other stuff. The other boat i'm thinking about an (RB16 maybe +10%) i want to build outside in the garden but she'll have to sacrafice her parking space for that. So if i make a good mess in the garage i get booted outside to the garden :)

Bigger boats can then be built in a tent :)

Atleast that's the Idea. If you see a wedding ring on Ebay under this username you know what happend :)

Moving to the Big time.

Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 3:19 am
by PrometheusNL
The wood came Tuesday morning.
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I had to work Tuesday ohh boy was that hard. Left an hour early and went home started drawing. By dinnertime i was a quarter of the way in. After dinner i was finished drawing the 9mm ply.
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Wednesday after work i drew the 6mm ply sheets and cut out the first piece out of the 9 mm ply.

For the next boat i'll use a metal straight edge to get even straighter cuts with the jigsaw. BTW the Jigsaw did GREAT. I was worried i needed a circluar saw but this worked fine. Just made sure i had the right blade a Bosch Clean cut blade 3 to 30 mm.
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Putting sawdust though a sieve for the woodflour mix. Still a bit coarse i have no idea how to make this finer. Looked all over the place for wood flower but no joy.
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Thursday evening cut out all the rest of the parts.
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Whoops run into the first snag.

I damaged one of the Side panels where the butt block is glued on. This is the Rub rail side so i can't hide it like i could on the chine. Options should i cut it out and replace with new ply with epoxy glue or leave it and build up the rubrail around it then fil it in with epoxy glue. Possible color difference on the repair?

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Second snag.

Din't measure quite right on the batten curve on the side panels. This one is correct. overal height 406MM
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This one is short 6 mm so it will probablly have a high spot in the chine i should be able to hide this with a little bigger filet right? overall hight 400 mm
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Now ready for the gluing part. It's scaring the pants off me hope i can make it work right.

regards Prom

Ps sorry about the pic load it's kinda overkill on the pics..

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 8:22 am
by PrometheusNL
It's been a while since i reported on the build. But i'm still progressing. Last week i did 0 because i had other stuff prevent me from building.

Yesterday i stiched her up with tie wraps because the Ductape wasn't holding her shape rigid enhough. So i got out the drill and made sure she stayed the shape i liked. Then i din't read the instructions and went to town on filiting. When i got the frames in i figured better to filit everhting around the stiches remove them tomorrow and sand smooth. Then fill in the holes i left with stiching.

So that's where i'm at. Today a bit of sanding maybe a bit of fiberglass on the seams.

Prom.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 7:38 am
by 81AirCooled
Great thread Prom. I`ve got my ply ordered for my first build (Hiawatha 16 canoe) and will order the exoxy and tape next week. I haven´t been able to source woodflour so will use microballoons instead.

Your model looks great and the real thing even better, the fact that it´s come along so far in only a few weeks gives me hope I can get my canoe finished before the end of the year.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 11:24 am
by PrometheusNL
Thanks 81Aircooled,

Since my last post i'm further along she's all glued up now into modifying a few things. This is taking a bit more time. If i'd stuck to the planns i'd already be done but where's the fun in that :D

Today i primed the seat boxes and they are drying now so i can probablly Glue the tops on after dinner and glass the tops tonight. Then tomorrow fill in some seams with putty. Flip her over and fit skeg + putty seams. then sand until white with dust and prime.

i should be done in a week or 3. Then... end of summer and jobs in the house :)

as always more pics in the album.

Added a few from the album to complete the build thread a bit more.

This was before using wood flour i glued the bottom and sides together with sawdust. It worked but way to coarse NEVER DO SOMETHING LIKE THAT ON YOUR BOAT. Find woodflour.
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Woahh boy when you get going putting her together you don't stop to take pictures you want her together asap I used tiewraps all around because i couldn't get her to stay tight on the seams with ducttape only.
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It's so funny to me the persective change when you look from the bow to the stern she looks sleek small and fast. When you look from the stern to the bow you see she has some with in her backside and enhough room for a party in the back :)
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As you can see my doubled up transom made lining up the sides a little harder. But i got it to work with a few bits of scrap plywood and some elctrical conduit.
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The front frame. I made a huge mistake on that one. I should have glued the backing boards a little in from the edge about 10mm or so. Now i was left with a HUGE gap between the sides of the front frame. Ah well the beginning mistakes of a first time builder :)
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Everything filited and fiberglassed. did it in more stages though. First stiched then removed zipties then fillited the rest in and then glued the fiberglass tape on.
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From the other side.
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The bow inside overlapping fiberglass just use a good dab of epoxy and it will all wet out.
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Flipped her over and coated the bottom in 1 coat of neat epoxy.
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Taped all the rounded seams
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Chine Transom overlap i was sparing with fiberglass so i wouldn't have to sand it all flat.
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Flipping her back doing the rubraill. Little different then the planns 2 strips on the inside 2 on the outside.
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Detail of the rubrail transom. I was a bit low on the side panels so i filled in between the inside and outside rubrail with woodflour epoxy mix turned out great and gave me the 6mm i was short.
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The front rubrail meeting later i filled in with woodflour epoxy. Turned out nicely.
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The transom seat. I later decied i wanted storage space so i cut the hatches for the transom seat and mid seat.
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The Bow testing fairing compound on the inside tape edges. Mid seat cut out and glued battens for the hatch.
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Starting to get colder.

Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 1:43 pm
by PrometheusNL
But not to cold yet. So i'm rushing a few things to get done so i can paint her in the spring and have the rest of the spring summer to go boating / buidling a new bigger one :)

What i'll build after the winter i'll decide in the winter. But until then here are a few pics of the build.

Glued the seat tops on and front.
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Primed the front storage area and beefed up the 6mm ply front cover with some braces so it won't ever sag.
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Did my rubrail different. I went for 5 mm ply strips 2 on the inside and 2 on the outside all stagered sanded and epoxyied. Will finish them with a Teak varnish for UV protection.
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Drilled HOLES in the front 9.5 mm for the towing eye. it's an M8 curved bolt. Epoxied loosly in place will put extra support on the inside with a small block and some epoxy woodflour mix.
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Sanding back the primer to get a smoother finish on the bottom. In the back you can see my epoxy graphite test. Turned out great when i sanded it with 120 grit it went verry smooth. Will sand whole bottom and put a new coat of epoxy graphite on.
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Almost forgot fitted a skeg. I was in doubt if i was going to glass it in but it feels solid enhough to not glass it. Besides no rocky lakes here all mud and sand epoxy graphite mix should be fine. The planns told me to use 10mm ply single but i opted for 2 glued together giving me a skeg thats 20mm wide. Sure it will be heavyer but it looks much better proportioned.
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Carefull sanding. Sanded the epoxy primer verry carefully its so easy to take to much off with the bosch.
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First bottom coat of epoxy graphite on the bottom :) I was in doubt of the quantities to use so i went with 150g epoxy with 20g of graphite. that gives me 13.3% epoxy graphite mix. I saw mix ratio's on the site of 10 to 15% so i should be good. I probablly will go with 20% next coat en 30% the last coat. I think i read somewhere you need the second and third coat with heavyer graphite ratio's. Here are a few shots and angles.
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2 coats to go then flip her over and think what i'm gonna do with the top.

I think i made a mistake with the transom i doubled up the transom from 1 single 10mm ply with 2 x 6mm giving me 26mm ply full with transom. Do i still now need the clamping board? I think was only supposed to use 1 10mm transom and a clamping board at the top. I'll look into that after the flip. Then also when i flip her i'll work on securing the towing eye. Finish up the bow cover with cleat. and put some hinges on. Then maybe prime the top and winterize the project so i can hit the ground running in the spring.

It's a sad day when you have to store your epoxy inside because it's become to cold outside so i'll leave you with a sad picture.
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Epoxy in the house to keep warm...

Where did the summer go so quikly and why did it go so fast. Must been having tonns of fun because it's already over and i'm still having fun...

Maybe i should get a space heater for the garage so i can keep working... Hmm how do i sell this to the whife any ideas ?

:D

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 1:31 pm
by NW Trout
Pro,

Nice work.

For the transom on my FL12 I sort of doubled the whole transome with 6mm (1/4) and 9mm (3/8). Weight wise its fine except too thin for the motor mount jaw opening on the MinnKota electric motor I use. I've since added an additional 6mm (1/4) piece inside and out.

This winter I'm also thinking of adding sacrifical clamping boards using sized HDP kitchen cutting boards. With the MinnKota mount right now it will dent or mar the finish. These would solve that.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 1:50 pm
by gstanfield
Looking good for sure :D That skeg looks fine, not too wide at all. I did mine with 5/4 cedar (roughly 25mm wide finished size)

I also made a thick transom with 2 layers of 3/8 (10mm) ply and like John mine was too thin for my electric motor to clamp down on. I fixed that with a motor clamp made from the same 5/4 cedar boards. It worked out just fine.

John, are you talking about adding some to the outside of the transom? That's where mine really bit hard into the boat.

Here's a pic of the clamping board I added to mine:
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Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 6:20 pm
by NW Trout
I've added 6mm (1/4) of marine ply to both sides of the transom.

You can barely see the ply wood addition here. Intention is to fair and paint same as hull and then overdrill, fill and drill holes to allow bolting of two squares of cutting board material inside and out. The cutting board material can then be changed out as needed - if at all.
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This is fishing the picturesque Duwamish River during this fall's Pink Salmon run. :wink:

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 6:39 pm
by gstanfield
Nice! I've admired your boat since you built it and will steal a few ideas from it when I build another FL14 to replace mine. :wink:

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 6:13 am
by PrometheusNL
Whoops i forgot to add a few pictures in the post from 23rd of sept. Added those into there so the build is a bit more documented then going from flat sheets to almost finished hull :)

For other pics and more detail go to the album in my signature.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 8:07 am
by JGB
Prometheus,
Your boat looks great. Check this link for your question on oarlock placement

http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9739

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 8:42 am
by PrometheusNL
Thanks JGB for that quick reply :)

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:19 am
by PrometheusNL
Been doing some work without glue since it's becomming a bit to cold so preparing for a bit hotter weather.

working on the towing eye and front cover

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Should be sturdy enhough when all glued up.

Hide the ugly stuff.
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Thickend up the transome with clamp plates both sides overall thickness now 42mm

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putting on some bling bling oarlocks.

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today i'll get the hinges and oarlocks on.

regards Prom

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 12:01 pm
by gstanfield
Looking good, that's some pretty plywood you've got there too 8)

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 5:56 am
by PrometheusNL
It's to cold to work in the garage but i had to do something so i started looking for my next project after the fl12 is done.

Thinking about a modified RB16.. Maybe impossible to scale up the RB16 a bit more to get what i want out of it.

I'm thinking of This layout:

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Between 2 back seats 200 cm / 6 feet 7 inches so i can lay the seat flat and have a sunn deck.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 4:09 pm
by PrometheusNL
Had a bit off work this weekend finally got back to boat building.

Where i left it last year i had some fairing and painting to do and i would be done. But alas the temp dropped to low for both so had to wait until it got warmer. This weekend it finally got resonablly warm so back to working on it.

Almost done faired primered and painted the inside. Flip her over and paint on the outside slap the trim on and she's done and ready to get wet.

Should be soon :)

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 3:41 am
by PrometheusNL
Drat won't finish it before my holiday. Only need varnish the rubrail and maybe rework the transom coners. But it will have to wait until i get back from Italy. Got an extra week off work to get it finished and get myself an electric motor batery and splash her.

Yes i'll upload some pics soon when i get a moment.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 10:26 am
by Flea
looking forward to the pics my freind, getting close to splashing her must get you a bit excited i would imagine.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 4:49 am
by PrometheusNL
Pic extravaganza.

Back from italy got swamped with work so here we go :)
Lets catch this post up to where i'm at now.

This is how i found her after the long winter:
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fairing the tape:
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Sanding the whole inside
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Primer on the inside
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Tape for topcoat
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White top coat starting to look nice.
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Flip her over for the bottom coat but first moar sanding.
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First coat of Marine deep blue
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Sand smooth and epoxy the rails.
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More to come

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:09 am
by thb
Love the dark blue and all the brightwork. Really sets off the boat. Good work. Waiting to the splash pics.

Regards
Tom in Steinhatchee :)

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 3:49 pm
by PrometheusNL
Some questions posted on the picasa album ill copy them here.

Questions

Did you glass the entire exterior?
and
Looks great, my wife just bought me the plans for the fl14, and your pictures give a great understanding of the different steps involved. How difficult was building the oar lock 'connectors'?

How close did you follow the directions for the boat? Did you find the directions easy to understand?what about paint? Did you use a certain type of primer ? A certain type of paint? Thanks!

Awnser

I did not glass the exterior onlly coated with epoxy coats and then a finish coat. The bottom is epoxy graphite mix.

After building the boat the oar lock connectors where easy as pie. You get familliar with the concepts of epoxy and wood you'll fix something up to suit your needs in a few minutes. Basicly what i did was glue 3 cut out sheets together then drill a hole in it and a cover to make it look nice.

The directions are easy to follow but also easy to make a mistake. Mistakes never are the end of the world since you can fix them pretty simple and most have a solution. This ofcourse has limits if you cut it in half there's only so much you can do to fix that ;)

The layering of what i used wood be Wood with 1 or 2 coats of clear epoxy then an epoxy based Armour coat. ( product for sale in the EU that is a coating on epoxy basis with hardened and UV stabalized stuff in there) then a topcoat with a Poly uritane yacht paint. (the blue and white on my boat) the clear finshed was coated 3 to 4 times with clear epoxy then coated with an run of the mill Oil based teak colored varnish.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 3:58 pm
by PrometheusNL
Another question.

The white on the glass tape.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1153351433 ... 4723071954

This is a filler i made by hand to fill out the class weave on the glass tape. This is epoxy mixed with glass microbaloons and a thickening agent. Later i bought a product also an epoxy based filler but ready mixed. This is the green stuff you see in the later pictures.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 5:00 pm
by pee wee
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Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 9:03 am
by PrometheusNL
So life happened...

But then you finsh your project and splash her.

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and Youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEyx89dOWL8

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 9:44 am
by jacquesmm
Prachtig!

Well done and she moves fast with that trolling motor.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 3:14 pm
by terrulian
I checked out your picasa site. Great documentation. I can't believe you built both cardboard and plywood models in the planning stage.
I'm basically copying your color scheme with minor alterations. Until seeing your shots I hadn't considered leaving the laminated gunwales clear but it looks very good that way...although I have an inwale or shear clamp, on the inside instead of the outside, and as it gets interrupted by the frames, I haven't sorted a nice way to do it.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 3:23 pm
by jacquesmm
A plywood laminated rubrail looks good.
There is trick to have it look even better: stain some of the strips a dark color and alternate layers.

The plans do not show a sheer clamp in most small boats. Those boats are often cleaned ashore by rolling them on the side. The sheer clamp catches the dirt.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 3:57 pm
by PrometheusNL
jacquesmm wrote:Prachtig!

Well done and she moves fast with that trolling motor.
I kinda over killed it on the trolling motor got a good "European Cragslist deal" its a 54 LB motor suitable for a 1750 kg boat ..

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 4:00 pm
by PrometheusNL
terrulian wrote:I checked out your picasa site. Great documentation. I can't believe you built both cardboard and plywood models in the planning stage.
I'm basically copying your color scheme with minor alterations. Until seeing your shots I hadn't considered leaving the laminated gunwales clear but it looks very good that way...although I have an inwale or shear clamp, on the inside instead of the outside, and as it gets interrupted by the frames, I haven't sorted a nice way to do it.

I basicly did what i thought might look good and i almost felt guilty covering up all the wood in white and blue so the rubrail and exposed wood was my way of showing off the wood construction.

when i tell them it only weighs 45 Kg ISH (90 lbs) they don't beleve me.

Re: PrometheusNL FL12

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 4:06 pm
by terrulian
The plans do not show a sheer clamp in most small boats.
The shear clamp was necessitated by the restriction of the width of the boat to get it into my van. I still haven't tried it and won't know it fits until the boat is finished.
Those boats are often cleaned ashore by rolling them on the side. The sheer clamp catches the dirt.
Yes, I'm concerned about this but had no choice other than to put it on top of the van which would have been very difficult to do alone.
when i tell them it only weighs 45 Kg ISH (90 lbs) they don't beleve me.
I'm not going to come close to than and my boat is a V10. I glassed the bottom and seats, doubled the knees and breasthook, and done a lot of fairing. Still, I'm surprised those bits added as much weight as they did.