SUP build - Shine

[jacquesmm]

I was experimenting on ways to keep frames/stringers square, ended up not using any clamps. Well, I guess I did use the 4 tiny C clamps at the transom

We will clean up the tutorial when we are finished.
In the end, after some testing, Joel did not use any clamps between the frames.
Once finished, we will weigh the SUP and we are almost certain that we will use 1/4" framing instead of 1/8.
It will only weigh a few more ounces if I cut enough lightening holes but will be much stiffer.

[jacquesmm]

. . .
I am thinking that a few vertical flush mounted rod holders (pvc tubes) that are glassed to the frame would work well. It would add a lot of weight but I can live with that since I don't weigh over 200 pounds.

As designed, this is a big SUP that displaces 350 lbs well before water reaches the deck.
We expect builders to rig it for fishing, she can take the weight.

And if you don't fish, she is big enough to take your dog paddling:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnMZuYbdC8A

[tech_support]

Update: after flipping we coated all the inside with one coat of epoxy, then made a large fillet on inside bottom joint. Fillet provides strength and also gives some backing for when we round over the outside chine. Fillet is made with micro balloons to save weight. Also taped the bottom seam using 6 oz 3" tape.

Added a shear clamp of 1/2"x3/4", in future kits we will have the notches in the frames precut for these, but with a multi-tool they can all be cut in minutes. Glued up another batten to the tops of the stringers, these serve dual purpose of stiffening and cleats for gluing down deck. Next step is to add a few cleats to the frames, coat everything again, then glue down deck. She is still a lightweight

[jacquesmm]

Prototypes begin to pile up in the back of the office. If anybody wants a SUP for very little $, email Joel.

Prototype #1 is a throw away: you can pick it up for free. It will not sink but I find it too heavy and we never painted it.
#2 is well built, lighter than #1 but still about 10lbs more than our finale design. It is a good SUP but we wanted to fine tune the building method and save weight, that's why there is #3.
#3 is the one in the pictures above, light and strong but Joel will probably want to keep it.
There may not be a #4 since all fits and goes together easily. The differences will be notches for the sheer clamp and cleats.

[Cracker Larry]

Just wondering about adding some lightening holes in the stringers too. Would it weaken them too much?

[jacquesmm]

The lightening holes in the stringers are part of the plan.
I wanted to see how flimsy the 4 mm stringers would be. The next stringers will be 6 mm with lightening holes.
3 or 4 works but the assembly will be easier with 6mm and the difference is only a few ounces.

[remedy32]

That head on view has me thinking of a dual purpose SUP....add a small fin and mast and go very fast.

bill

[Cracker Larry]

Thanks for the reply Jacques.

Bill, that's what I was thinking, a sailboard on steroids I ain't paddling that thing anywhere

[hp010101]

Prototypes begin to pile up in the back of the office. If anybody wants a SUP for very little $, email Joel.

Prototype #1 is a throw away: you can pick it up for free. It will not sink but I find it too heavy and we never painted it.
#2 is well built, lighter than #1 but still about 10lbs more than our finale design. It is a good SUP but we wanted to fine tune the building method and save weight, that's why there is #3.
#3 is the one in the pictures above, light and strong but Joel will probably want to keep it.
There may not be a #4 since all fits and goes together easily. The differences will be notches for the sheer clamp and cleats.

I would like to have # 2 if it still around. I am new to board is Joel going by another name besides Joel?

[Mad Dog]

I would like to have # 2 if it still around. I am new to board is Joel going by another name besides Joel?

Joel's forum name is Shine.

MD