If you want to hole it for a bilge sump, for example, you do that ahead of time with some HD core and glass it in. Then if you need to perfect fit it; trim it after the sole is cured down.
None of the core edges can be exposed and they do not hold hardware.
Benny & Brent xf20 build
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Re: Benny & Brent xf20 build
Properly glassed 2" would likely be fine with zero support in the width you'll need...so I doubt you need to worry about that very much. I still would go with 2x 1700 instead of the 1200...but that's ONLY because that is "my friend's" standard lamination for all of his honeycomb pieces...
He is a bit of an amature ... but here are some examples of his experiments (all with honeycomb decks among other parts) ...
Honeycomb hidden beneath the teak, of course...
Same cockpit with a little extra weight on it...the honeycomb held up just fine...
I trust his judgement & would stick with 2x 1700 if it were me. In your application, 2x 1200 might be ok...but I would absolutely get the bare panels & glass both layers myself.
He is a bit of an amature ... but here are some examples of his experiments (all with honeycomb decks among other parts) ...
Honeycomb hidden beneath the teak, of course...
Same cockpit with a little extra weight on it...the honeycomb held up just fine...
I trust his judgement & would stick with 2x 1700 if it were me. In your application, 2x 1200 might be ok...but I would absolutely get the bare panels & glass both layers myself.
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Re: Benny & Brent xf20 build
Your friend does some wonderful work! I have seen that swamped deck picture before but still love it.
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Re: Benny & Brent xf20 build
That's some clean work, do you know what he finishes it with? The weak part of my deck system was the gunnels because the white wood I used failed and was not tied in good where it joined the decks. Would like to
use the nidacore there and tab it to the decks and rubrail with fiberglass and use laminated pieces of Okoume for the cleats, rather than white wood?
use the nidacore there and tab it to the decks and rubrail with fiberglass and use laminated pieces of Okoume for the cleats, rather than white wood?
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Re: Benny & Brent xf20 build
That Carolina style boat with the triple outboard is one fine looking boat, it will be haunting my dreams.
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Re: Benny & Brent xf20 build
It is sexy. The only time I saw it finished was passing it on the highway one day when it was on a semi trailer. It was headed to whichever port it shipped out of...Charleston, Savanah, or somewhere south. That boat resides over in Liberia.
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Re: Benny & Brent xf20 build
We have been dismantling the inside and went to BBC to pick up the Nidacore and supplies. Now I need to get into the details of using the Nidacore. Does the Nidacore have to be laid so the joints
match up with cleat support directly under the joint or can it be taped and joined as a single piece with tape and the 3 layers of 17 oz. (2 top, 1 bottom) taking the place of a cleat or butt block?
match up with cleat support directly under the joint or can it be taped and joined as a single piece with tape and the 3 layers of 17 oz. (2 top, 1 bottom) taking the place of a cleat or butt block?
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Re: Benny & Brent xf20 build
From what little I have done with it I do not think the joints need to land on a support. I would use an extra layer of tape and call it good. As for your lay up I would use 2 layers of 1700 both top and bottom. For stuff like decks the bottom layer is doing most of the work as the deck is in compression. The top only really needs extra glass to resist puncture and wear and tear.
Last edited by Fuzz on Wed Apr 21, 2021 2:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Benny & Brent xf20 build
I would tend to disagree Nida Core is fragile on the edges. You normally fill the open cells with a epoxy/fiber compound, per there instructions. I would like plywood line it up on the frames with there added runners. Jacques is really the one to ask.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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