(anflyer) OD16 Started Today........

[anflyer]

Just wanted to let everybody know that the obsession finally hit me today. I just started my OD16 and was able to finish the stringers in about an hour.......so far so good.

On thursday I will measure, measure, measure and cut the bottom and sole.

Hopefully I can get a digital camera soon so I can begin documenting the progress.

This is just a heads up for all of you (EvilD, DrBones,etc.) to get ready for all of the questions I will be asking.


Happy Building...........

[Evildwarf]

The key to getting this thing right the first time is make sure you understand what you are reading on the plans.Reread and measure everthing at least three times before cutting.Use a good 16' batton to trace the lines on the sole,bottom and chines.I might even suggest to get Jacques to send you the measurements that fall in between the 2' ones, I calculated the measurement at 1' increments and I had no problem fitting the side panels, went on the first time and stayed. I also might suggest that you cut your side panels about 4 to 6"'s longer than on the plan and trim the excess after putting it on the boat. Measure the excess at the rear of the panel. When you gret to the filleting us a tounge depressor for you fillets,the big ones are rounded perfect to make 1/2" radiaus curved fillets.Don't precoat to much of your work area with epoxy because eventually you be going back over it you'll waste a lot of the stuff. Everytime you mix the stuff think of someone taking $5 out of your pocket. Or better yet, if you are married imagine your wife with new credit card at the Gallaria Mall Also, just a suggestion, but there's a Joes Auto Marine supply store near you, get their catalog and look for bulk deals on brushes ect. They have everything you need to build this thing.Check their bulk prices! But by all means use this forum and look at different boats. A lot of diffent ways of doing tthings and lots of guys doing them,they'll help.Evild

[DrBones]

Congrats Anyflyer! - I talked to EvilD. and he's been following my progress closely. I really like his building method. It is efficient and fast.

EVERYTHING he says there I would follow to the 'T' - He is absolutely right on all those points. If you don't follow them, you'll end up wasting a lot of epoxy. Believe me... I KNOW

So: get the 2' increment measurements for tracing the curves! - Use the tongue depressor for fillets (otherwise they become huge - look nice - but you'll end up wasting incredible amounts of epoxy on huge fillets) - ask EvilD to send you some pics of his fillets. Don't precoat! - Make sure you make your hull panels longer than on the plans!

Good luck..and take lots of pics!

[anflyer]

Thanks ED & Dr.B.

I am planning on using a CPVC batton that is about 5/8". This is very straight yet bends very easily (hope this works).

EvilD, by any chance do you have the 1' increments??

Thanks,
Adrian

[jasonmcintosh]

Drawing curves with batons…

I used a 8’ long, 1” wide slice from a 1/4” sheet of plywood I happened to have laying around. I looked for something better, but didn’t find anything that I liked.

As far as I’m concerned, the ABSOLUTE KEY(!!!) to using batons for tracing curved lines is to make sure that you’ve got the baton pinned on at least two points on either side of the section (between 2’ marks) where you’re drawing. I pounded small finishing nails into the plywood at the 2’ marks on my GF18 plans, and then used clamps to hold the baton on these nails while I drew my curve.

However, if you pin the baton on only one point, you’ll get a different curve than if you pin it on two points. I think that you mathematically get a better “curve-fit” to the points on the drawing with two pining points on either side of the section you’re drawing. Obviously, this doesn’t work on the first two sections that you have to draw, but there you just need to make sure you’ve pinned at least two points on the “interior” part of the curve.

Hope this isn’t too confusing.

Anyway, if you follow this two point pinning rule, I don’t think you need anything bigger than an 8’ baton, but longer is certainly better.

Jason

[anflyer]

Update on Progress:

I received my epoxy in the mail wednesday so I began by gluing on the
stringers and today I coated the sole & stringers and glued the butt blocks.

Today I plan on installing the transversal braces (cross braces) and
this weekend I should have the chase tubing installed.

I should be able to post pictures today when I figure out which web site to place the pictures.

One question I do have is what is the angle of the miter cut on these braces. This worries me since i want to make sure that it does interfere with the chine when it is time to intall. I have looked on the plans but I cannot seem to find any measurements. Also should it go out to the edge of the sole??

Thanks,

[jacquesmm]

One question I do have is what is the angle of the miter cut on these braces.

None.
There is no beveling in our designs. Quite the opposite, we like the gaps.
Please do not think in terms of wooden boats: we do not want tight assemblies. Epoxy needs at least a small gap. A tight assembly will push the resin out of the joint and it may fail.
Do not worry about interference: we take the assembled angle in account when designing the boat.

[anflyer]

Here are some of the progress pics:

Sole with buttblocks and cross braces installed:

[anflyer]

Wrong Picture, that is actually the stand I built to make working on the boat easier.

Here is the sole with stringers and braces:


tomorrow I will intall the chase tubes.

Quick question?? Is the the chase tube 3" internal diameter or external diameter. I am installing the 3" internal diameter tube. just wanted to make sure this isn't overkll.

thanks,
Adrian

[DrBones]

One tip: Try to keep the panels on a flat surface. You for sure don't want a wavy bottom or sole!