PY12 Build - NC

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Dienster
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Re: PY12 Build - NC

Post by Dienster »

AMC wrote:Also, many people on here have suggested that you sand or plane the area where the tape will go. By thinning it out, you can reduce the amount of fairing required later (prob only necessary on the side that will show).
I was considering that but with the ply being only 3mm, I was a little worried about structural integrity by thinning that out any more. If I only did the show side and went down .75-1mm, I think it would be ok but I would worry about the strength of having a 1-1.5mm thick wood "tenon" if both sides were rebated (at least until the rest of the glass went on). Anyone have an opinion on this?
When you get this boat done, I would love to meet up and look at her.
Sure thing, what area do you live in?

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Re: PY12 Build - NC

Post by jacquesmm »

Keep that sanding very shallow. As you say, there isn't much wood in 3mm.
If you reduce the wood thickness, make certain that the inside tape generously overlap that part.
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AMC
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Re: PY12 Build - NC

Post by AMC »

Dienster wrote: Sure thing, what area do you live in?
Creedmoor.


JM, do you need to tape the outside if you are covering the whole thing with glass? If not, then I don't know that I would bother with the thinning if it's only on the inside.

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Re: PY12 Build - NC

Post by jacquesmm »

See the notes.
I list a standard version = wide fabric only, no tape except inside bow and stern and a heavy duty version: tape all outside seams before applying the wide fabric.
If you are building the standard version, the discussion about grinding the plywood down for the tape becomes irrelevant.

The heavy duty version is overkill but it may make sense for rough use: white water with rocks or a club/rental boat.
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Dienster
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Re: PY12 Build - NC

Post by Dienster »

jacquesmm wrote:See the notes.
I list a standard version = wide fabric only, no tape except inside bow and stern and a heavy duty version: tape all outside seams before applying the wide fabric.
If you are building the standard version, the discussion about grinding the plywood down for the tape becomes irrelevant.

The heavy duty version is overkill but it may make sense for rough use: white water with rocks or a club/rental boat.
To splice the smaller pieces from the different pieces of plywood together, you use tape right? How many layers, any offsetting of multiple layers? Forgive me if I missed this in the notes, I looked for it twice.

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Re: PY12 Build - NC

Post by jacquesmm »

OK, the splices . . . I don't know why I was thinking about the seams, probably because I was busy drawing a seam for a new boat.

For the splices you use tape and I would grind them down a little bit on the outside face for the tape. Outside only and remember that panels are mirror image, not copies.
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Re: PY12 Build - NC

Post by swampboy »

Dienster - I am building the Wave Kayak 13 and using 3mm plywood, same as your PY12 build. I initially attempted to get super particular about removing material for the fiberglass splice on the external side of the panel - even going so far as to layout staightedges offset from the seam just beyond where the 6" tape would go, and routing out a mil or so of material. I glassed it up and when I went to flip it, it was pretty flimsy and felt weak at the joint, even though the glass job appeared solid. IMO the effort is not worth it, the 3 mm ply is just too thin. I ended up lopping off the ends and re-splicing the panels together without removing material. The difference in joint strength is noticible.
I bought 6" wide 6oz cloth tape for this build, and used the full 6" width for the splicing job. The thickness of the lightweight splice when glassed up is minimal (~1 mil), and fairing should not be an issue. When I get to fillet and taping, I plan to cut the 6" tape in half to make 3" taping strips. I also plan to glass the entire outside of the yak - including the deck - and the inside just above the waterline or so with 6oz cloth. I'm thinking that should make it plently strong.

Dienster
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Re: PY12 Build - NC

Post by Dienster »

So I'm wondering if this was too much, too little or just the right amount of epoxy?

Image

Thanks
Steve

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Re: PY12 Build - NC

Post by dbcrx »

Too much. You only need enough to make the glass go clear. You don't want glossy pools of it sitting on top.
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Dienster
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Re: PY12 Build - NC

Post by Dienster »

Thanks,

I thought it might be. So, the mesh shouldn't necessarily be completely filled with epoxy but just wet out enough to make it translucent. (End product should look like the drier spots in the picture where you can see the mesh?)

I was shooting for just filling the mesh and making it translucent but I may not have given it enough time to spread out before dabbing on more.

Does epoxy expand when curing? Seems like there is a lot more on there after curing than what I thought I put on.

Guess I should get sanding?

- Steve

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