PY12 Build - NC
Re: PY12 Build - NC
I suggest using a lamination roller to mitigate the epoxy pooling effect during lamination. They are sold at any boatbuilding supply store, including this site. I prefer this tool for laying up tape, a squeegee tends to move the tape around to much in my experience. I tend to use the squeegee for larger fiberglass cloth vs. tape laminations. Hope this helps for your future laminations. I wouldn't worry too much about what you show in the picture. Just sand it flat with an orbital until you hit glass, then stop.
Re: PY12 Build - NC
I did use a roller but I think the plastic I laid over pulled it up into the puddles you see because it was level and not puddled before it cured.
- BB Sig
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Re: PY12 Build - NC
Any updates on this boat? Bitten by the kayak bug and a comparable one to this is over $3,000.
- robbiro
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Re: PY12 Build - NC
Barry I have had the same thought on what happened to this build. I have the plans and will start fairly shortly. Had a great discussion with Jacques at the Central Gulf Boat Builders meet over this past weekend and I am ready to get after another build. I have had several folks tell me that they liked the idea of a fishing kayak in some of the small ponds, lakes and streams here in central Mississippi. Seems to be a good idea to use in place of a car-topper type dingy.
Hey Steve where are you in your build!!
Keep on Buildin'
'
Robbie
Hey Steve where are you in your build!!
Keep on Buildin'
'
Robbie
32.20.0983N
89.48.0787W
GF-16 FIRST LIGHT finished; D-5 Crusader '08 finished, PY 12 plans in hand
89.48.0787W
GF-16 FIRST LIGHT finished; D-5 Crusader '08 finished, PY 12 plans in hand
Re: PY12 Build - NC
This has been sidelined for too long. Going to get back on it soon.
Re: PY12 Build - NC
So I have it stitched up but it needs a bit of adjusting. I'll cut the stitches and trim a few areas this weekend and hopefully be able to fillet and tape the hull this weekend.
I've been looking at toys and plan to add a bassyak trolling motor to this. I figure I'll have a battery compartment up front and run a chase under the foam for power. Also planned is a gps fishfinder. I'm considering adding a removable 360 nav light as well as a power port for a live well in the rear all controlled by a panel up front. This should be able to hold a large battery so I might as well make use of it. I'll try to get some pics up later
I've been looking at toys and plan to add a bassyak trolling motor to this. I figure I'll have a battery compartment up front and run a chase under the foam for power. Also planned is a gps fishfinder. I'm considering adding a removable 360 nav light as well as a power port for a live well in the rear all controlled by a panel up front. This should be able to hold a large battery so I might as well make use of it. I'll try to get some pics up later
Re: PY12 Build - NC
So I cut it apart and hit some areas with the block plane to clean them up. Then I started putting it back together.
Hot glued some spacers on the frames to keep them off the plywood sides so there will be room for a good bond later.
Had trouble with the smaller frames moving around too much to stitched them in with a zip tie on each side and blocked them in with some scrap.
Zipped it in loose and tightened slowly. Did the top and bottom center lines first and then the sides.
Used some Popsicle sticks to help space things.
Tacked the bottom. Forgot to tape the seams from the insides. Some areas were tough to tack weld. After the tacks cure, I'll flip it, remove the stitches where I tacked and cut the top off so I can tape it up.
Hot glued some spacers on the frames to keep them off the plywood sides so there will be room for a good bond later.
Had trouble with the smaller frames moving around too much to stitched them in with a zip tie on each side and blocked them in with some scrap.
Zipped it in loose and tightened slowly. Did the top and bottom center lines first and then the sides.
Used some Popsicle sticks to help space things.
Tacked the bottom. Forgot to tape the seams from the insides. Some areas were tough to tack weld. After the tacks cure, I'll flip it, remove the stitches where I tacked and cut the top off so I can tape it up.
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Re: PY12 Build - NC
that looks really good. I use the same method for keeping a consistent gap on the seams
Re: PY12 Build - NC
Question time:
1) I'm planning for a shoot-through transducer mount and I don't have it yet. How big of a hole do I need to cut and glass? Where would the best place be for it on the kayak; front, center, rear?
2) wet on wet?
Does it even make sense to do this on the outside or is it better to let the welds cure, shape them with the sander and then do wet on wet with the tape and cloth?
After I clean up the tacks, what is the timing for doing wet on wet on wet?
0) precut tape and remove edge stitching, label, pre-cut cloth and label
1) lay down nice glue bead on all joints
2)Let the glue start to firm up
3) pre-coat the tape area
4) lay tape and wet out
5) let tape start to firm up
6) precoat whole area
7) lay out cloth and wet out
clean tools and beer
Is that right?
3) I'm thinking of running 2 "stringers" between the front frame and large seatback frame about 6-8" apart to support the sole and give me some storage area between the stringers that I can access through a hatch. It will reduce the area for foam. What volume of foam do I need to make it unsinkable with an extra 80lbs or so for trolling motor and battery, ~2 cubic feet?
THANKS
1) I'm planning for a shoot-through transducer mount and I don't have it yet. How big of a hole do I need to cut and glass? Where would the best place be for it on the kayak; front, center, rear?
2) wet on wet?
Does it even make sense to do this on the outside or is it better to let the welds cure, shape them with the sander and then do wet on wet with the tape and cloth?
After I clean up the tacks, what is the timing for doing wet on wet on wet?
0) precut tape and remove edge stitching, label, pre-cut cloth and label
1) lay down nice glue bead on all joints
2)Let the glue start to firm up
3) pre-coat the tape area
4) lay tape and wet out
5) let tape start to firm up
6) precoat whole area
7) lay out cloth and wet out
clean tools and beer
Is that right?
3) I'm thinking of running 2 "stringers" between the front frame and large seatback frame about 6-8" apart to support the sole and give me some storage area between the stringers that I can access through a hatch. It will reduce the area for foam. What volume of foam do I need to make it unsinkable with an extra 80lbs or so for trolling motor and battery, ~2 cubic feet?
THANKS
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