Had to cut a few welds at the stern where the 4 panels came together and re-tack them. One of my strategically placed sticks that needed a little more persuasion to get things lined up popped out and let one of the bottom panels slip over the side panel.
After that set, I flipped it, cut half the top off, cut all the stitches that were welded and taped the joints covering the stitch holes. Stitched the top back on and flipped it again.
Sanded down the welds and cut the tape to length.
Guess I'll decide on whether to go wet on wet with this once I see how well the seams look after laying down the bead of glue.
PY12 Build - NC
Re: PY12 Build - NC
Got the bead down though it was not uneventful. Had a bag explode on me while I was piping the seam so I finished 2/3 of the joints by spreading epoxyglue using a Popsicle stick.
Went back several times while it was curing to smooth out the joints.
When it cured, got on it with the sander to get rid of clumps
Was getting ready to pre-wet the area around the tape joints when I noticed this on the stern.
So I cut the glue with my oscillating tool and strapped up against a straight edge.
I had some of this laying around so mixed up a few ml and glued it together. I hope there aren't any compatibility issues with different epoxies.
Went back several times while it was curing to smooth out the joints.
When it cured, got on it with the sander to get rid of clumps
Was getting ready to pre-wet the area around the tape joints when I noticed this on the stern.
So I cut the glue with my oscillating tool and strapped up against a straight edge.
I had some of this laying around so mixed up a few ml and glued it together. I hope there aren't any compatibility issues with different epoxies.
Re: PY12 Build - NC
Built a cart that puts the kayak at an easier height to work with and can roll around easier.
Sealed the hull, taped and glassed last night. Shouldn't have started glassing at 11:30pm.
Wet
Taped
Glassed. I used too much epoxy for the 3.5 yards of 4 oz glass. Should have been 16 oz but used 21. Maybe if I heat the epoxy up it will wet out better next time.
Flipped and tack welded the center joint on the deck today
Hopefully can get it taped tomorrow.
Sealed the hull, taped and glassed last night. Shouldn't have started glassing at 11:30pm.
Wet
Taped
Glassed. I used too much epoxy for the 3.5 yards of 4 oz glass. Should have been 16 oz but used 21. Maybe if I heat the epoxy up it will wet out better next time.
Flipped and tack welded the center joint on the deck today
Hopefully can get it taped tomorrow.
- gk108
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
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Re: PY12 Build - NC
That looks pretty good. Your epoxy consumption is within the ballpark, so don't stress on it too much. Lots of variables at work including just how thirsty that particular piece of plywood is today. Had you rolled on a seal coat, then sanded and applied the glass, your resin content probably would have been right on the money. 50/50 resin content doesn't include the resin that soaked into the plywood.
CC, D15, V10
- Cracker Larry
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Re: PY12 Build - NC
Very good point, GK.50/50 resin content doesn't include the resin that soaked into the plywood.
That looks real good from here The resin does wet out the cloth more efficiently when it's warm. Cold resin is hard to spread evenly.
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose
Re: PY12 Build - NC
Thanks guys. I did seal the whole hull with about 6 oz of epoxy rolled on 10 hours before glassing. Maybe it was still thirsty because >95% of the glass, I can feel the texture so I didn't overdo it too badly. I'll heat up the epoxy next time to see if I can get closer to 50/50.
Somehow the seat back form shifted while I was stitching and now when set even with the top, it leaves a 5/8" gap below the form. Luckily, it shifted symmetrically and the boat isn't cockeyed. I'm planning to add a 3/8" shim glued to the bottom of the form to help fill in the gap. I just don't think filling a 5/8" gap with putty makes sense.
There are a few small air bubbles under the glass. 1-3 mm diameter. Should I do anything about those?
Somehow the seat back form shifted while I was stitching and now when set even with the top, it leaves a 5/8" gap below the form. Luckily, it shifted symmetrically and the boat isn't cockeyed. I'm planning to add a 3/8" shim glued to the bottom of the form to help fill in the gap. I just don't think filling a 5/8" gap with putty makes sense.
There are a few small air bubbles under the glass. 1-3 mm diameter. Should I do anything about those?
Re: PY12 Build - NC
The resin does wet out the cloth more efficiently when it's warm. Cold resin is hard to spread evenly.[/quote]
I like the resin above 70 degrees to work into the cloth - just get it out of the pot and you will have time to work it into the cloth.
I like the resin above 70 degrees to work into the cloth - just get it out of the pot and you will have time to work it into the cloth.
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- * Bateau Builder *
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- Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2007 5:39 pm
- Location: Medford, OR-Klamath Falls someday hopefully
Re: PY12 Build - NC
Does this boat not have taped seams on the inside of the hull?
I should have read your build over as I have been progressing on mine, I may have saved some effort. I think I would have been well served flipping my canoe after initial stitching and tack-welding. There is alot of shaping sanding I will have to do now instead where boards did not line up exactly where I wanted them to.
I also have a colder work area. Typically my garage is about 40*F in the morning. What I will do is keep the epoxy jugs indoors so they stay warm and fluid and then light up the propane heater to bring the shop up to 55 or so. (I am using fast hardener.) Once I am ready for stuff to cure, I move the heater closer to the boat and let the garage warm up and things seem to cure up in 24 hours. Of course today, I let the garage get up to 70+, and that fast epoxy lit off twice before I was ready for it to. Good reason to keep the batches small.
Please keep up the posts. By when do you think you will have her splashed?
I should have read your build over as I have been progressing on mine, I may have saved some effort. I think I would have been well served flipping my canoe after initial stitching and tack-welding. There is alot of shaping sanding I will have to do now instead where boards did not line up exactly where I wanted them to.
I also have a colder work area. Typically my garage is about 40*F in the morning. What I will do is keep the epoxy jugs indoors so they stay warm and fluid and then light up the propane heater to bring the shop up to 55 or so. (I am using fast hardener.) Once I am ready for stuff to cure, I move the heater closer to the boat and let the garage warm up and things seem to cure up in 24 hours. Of course today, I let the garage get up to 70+, and that fast epoxy lit off twice before I was ready for it to. Good reason to keep the batches small.
Please keep up the posts. By when do you think you will have her splashed?
-Aaron
"A-Ron the relentless"
Soli Deo Gloria
Semper Reformanda
"A-Ron the relentless"
Soli Deo Gloria
Semper Reformanda
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