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a GV13 build...

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2004 6:14 am
by alexit
Ok good people....
I am already a long way into this build and have been collecting many pics along the way so I thought it bout time I showed everyone here my progress and maybe even offer some insights into the process.
But first... the model.
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I was not planning to make a model, but as the plans had arrived and the months went by....work.work.work.
Ok, while I wait for a window where I can get the real boat built, I'll do a model.
And I'm glad I did.
Photocopy the plans and stick the on stiff board, cut out all the shapes and stitch the boat together.
I used thin bendy ply and superglue, but heavy cardboard would have been easier.
I recommend doing a model, it really helped me get a handle on the layout of the changes I wanted in this boat.
It gave me something physical to ponder.
alex

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2004 8:02 am
by Davef
Good job. I swear it looks like the real thing.

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2004 9:11 am
by MadRus
Cool. I like it, nice layout. When do we get pics of the real thing?

-Dave

Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2004 9:42 pm
by alexit
So I get all my supplies and get onto the build.
All tha ply and glass I got from a place called Caporns in Sydney. The prices were quite good and they were good guys to deal with. I settled on AA A-bond exterior. Could not justify the extra cost of 'marine'...esp when the helpfull chap swears that they both come from the same factory, out of the same press, same glues...showed me the difference...small visual defects are stamped 'exterior' the rest 'marine'. He even stated that at times he gets shipments where he can not tell the difference between the pallets? Has to get down and read the little stamps!
Caporns also sell West System products, though I used the R180 FGI epoxy. Have used this stuff before and it is great. Good tech support and a fare wack cheaper than West.
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So I have all my frames carfully marked out and cut, I lay the sheets of 6mm that will the hull onto the floor, some carfull nails, and mark and cut them at the same time using the little Makita panel saw. Quick and acurate.
I also built a steel fame (on wheels!) to give me a solid base to sqaure up the frames and allow me to easily push the thing round the workshop foor.
Most would not go to these extreams but I do like to be acurate and it will become another workshop dolly after I am finished.
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I layed up the hull sections in pairs, using stapes to hold the alignment, peel ply to seperate and a weight on the top. I also did not bother with the butt blocks on the lower panels as I intended to use the sub-floor for the sole to brace the area later down the track.

Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2004 12:03 am
by alexit
Cleared a nice space to work and put raised the hull up to a nice working hight that would also allow me to get in underneath the boat.
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I started with the sides as it seemed easier to line up the top edge of the hull with the frames and zip tie them in place.
Take a breather and pose for a pic, then....
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The rest of the hull went together very quickly and with little fuss.
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I was quite happy with how the final shape around the bow pulled in, and I am glad I took the time to cut every piece acurately. It pulled in to within 1mm!! I kid you not. I know you see a lot of mention on these forums to the 'gaps are good' idea, but I would suggest a controlled gap is better!

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 4:31 pm
by Evan_Gatehouse
Looks very nice so far. Might I suggest to other builders to use a few less cable ties on the side panels. You could probably use 1/2 that amount and still get the panel to close properly...

Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 5:39 pm
by tobolamr
Looks good to me! 8)

Thanks for the pics, and I look forward to seeing more as you progress.

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 4:04 am
by alexit
You are dead right Evan, I could have used a lot less ties.
I took a punt and drilled out holes before offering the hull up. :roll:
Anyway
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After making sure everthing is nice and square and the rear section was true (I assured this with the aluminium batterns), I went ahead and tacked it all up.
I used one of the west system mixes (409?) for the fillets. It mixed in to a nice smooth consistency though I found putting it through a sieve helped get rid of any lumps.
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I also got in underneath and tacked in all the frames to ensure that it all stayed true.
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The next day I came in and removed the ties and the batterns, cleaned up the joints and got in underneath and used masking tape to help stop any filleting mix coming through during the next stage...
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Out comes the double bias tape, and working wet on wet, I epoxy, fillet and then tape all the outer seams.

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 4:30 am
by alexit
Now onto the serious glassing.... 8)
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The double bias cloth was quite easy to manage to my surprise. It took the curves well and was easy to wet out. I had only ever used woven and chopped strand cloth before...the bias is much nicer to work with! :D
I used both a squeegie and one of those small glass rollers to put down the cloth and remove air bubbles and excess epoxy.
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I found a carefull hand with the belt sander made quick work of getting the hull ready for fairing. I also decided to flip the hull now and finish the inside fitout before I fair and paint the hull.
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 1:35 pm
by tobolamr
Lookin' good... Thanks for the pics!

GV13

Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 7:53 pm
by ausie
Alex,
At the rate you are going,we might have to delay our first Aus Bateau get-together,as it won't be all that long before you will be able to estimate completion....by then,a few other boats might be ready too....no hurry ,really.

Are you putting level floor in?

Looking good.

Al Burke.

Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2004 3:51 am
by alexit
Can you keep a secret Al?
I am now painting and looking at launching early March...
You see I got right into the build and had no time to update any posts here, so I figured I'll wait and post to this forum every couple of days to update the work I have done over the last.... well I only started early January!
And yeah, I have raised the sole as well as other mods....
Where bouts do you use your GV11?
alex

Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2004 4:02 am
by alexit
now...getting down to it...
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I found the fillets went down easy easy easy, and almost always wet on wet.
As I said before, I used a West System (I was wrong before, I used #403) mix for convenience sake, though towards the end of construction I moved on to woodfloor saved from the belt sander and put through a sieve.
The West stuff is nicer to use, just a bit smoother under the blade. Though really, the homemade woodfloor is fine. Just make sure to remove any bits.
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First I cleaned up the joints, and cut the bias tape to lengths, then went around and pre-coated all the joints.
I used a plastic spoon to shape the fillets before laying down the glass, wetting it out and finally rolling the glass into the fillet with a small metal fibreglass roller.
These fibreglass rollers are great. recommended A+
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I took the time while the fillets went off to cut out the seating and the hatches for the first dry fit.
I just had to see what this baby was going to look like.

a GV13 build

Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2004 4:29 am
by ausie
Alex,

Your progress is amazing!

& no, I can't keep a secret( esp on this forum).

GV11 is used(not as often as I would like) on Lake Macquarie, Newcastle Harbour & Hunter River,& Port Stephens.

The facilities to which you have access clearly make this progress possible....but that's your good fortune.

I'll ring you soon & hopefully get together with you to look at your project.You might like to email me a contact number privately.

Al Burke.

Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2004 4:56 am
by alexit
Ok, by now I have all the frames in and glassed and are starting on the details....
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Here you can see a dry fit of the raised sole to the left of the frame, and the jig I used to get a shape on the extra frame that will form the front hatch compartment.
The area directly under the bow will be a semi-open anchor locker.
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The framing for the sole in the centre section of the boat.
Those who know the GV13 may have noticed I have altered the all of the frames so they finish a seat level instead of continuing up to the gunnels.
There are a couple of reasons I have done this...
The seating and gunnel arrangement I had in mind would more than compensate for the loss of stucture they provide. (see posts to come)
It made the nesting and marking out of the frames much easier and allowed me to use the relative offcuts from the frames as the supports for the sole...already cut to size and a perfect fit! And I used no more ply than the BOM states.
Personally I find the look of the framing as per the design... a little....odd. (Sorry Evan :( ) I guess I prefer a cleaner line.
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A dry fit of the motorwell sides. The compartments will be foamed for positive floatation (as will under the sole)
The transom has been cut for a short shaft motor..a suzuki 15hp, tiller steer.
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More on the front hatch....

Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2004 6:27 am
by alexit
Right.
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One of my favourite tools on this job would have to be the die-grinder you see here. Great for getting in and cleaning all those little bits in hard to get corners. The best thing being it does not produce fine dust like a flap disk on a grinder or a belt sander. Also a must for the drainage holes, which I have drilled, if you look really close, down each side of the raised sole.
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The sole has gone down and has been foamed. I did the foam by pouring it through holes drilled in sole then covering the hole with a bit of plastic sheet and a weight of some kind. I also had drilled small vent holes near the edge of each compartment to allow the foam to expand out into the void. It worked very well with little mess.
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A start on the frames that will support the central seating area. I also tried a dry fit of the lower gunnels, which to my relief, bent round with only a little grunt. :o
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The last dry fit of the seating to allow me sort the hatch which will become part of the back seat.

Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 4:47 am
by alexit
A quick pic to show I put an extra 12mm to the top edge of the transom on either side of the motorwell.
It was not needed so to speak, it's just me wanting something substantial for the eye in this area.... if you no what I mean??
It also lets me bolt on handles from each side without to much worry.
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Here is a pic of the area aft of the front hatch.
You can see that I have put in the sole at the same level as that of the centre section of the craft. The void under the sole has also been foamed.
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Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 10:58 am
by BilltheCat
Yellow card!!!!! Free Kick - You are cited for excessive neatness and making others (me) look bad. Keep posting pictures like that and you'll have me seeing a shrink.

Nice work - beautiful work - really looking forward to seeing the finished product

Dave

Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 11:01 am
by fishingdan
I agree with Dave. Sling some goop around and make it look like a homemade boat! :^o

Beautiful work!

Dan

Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2004 8:25 pm
by jasonmcintosh
My only criticism is that with all of the room you have you should have built the CS25 rather than a 13 footer... but you're doing such a nice job I'll forgive you.

Thanks for the picts!

Jason

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 4:48 am
by alexit
Thanks for the support guys... I can assure you, I have all the goop and more on every bit of clothing I own. :)
As for a bigger boat... one day I will build myself an 18ft 'putt-putt' clinker... but at the moment, the kombi just will not tow anything that big. :?
Anyway..back to the build.
Took a quick look out the workshop for some sunset inspiration. :D
They have been developing the Walsh Bay area recently, and the apartments on this wharf start at 'just' 1.4m aus$!!
And they pay me to work here! :D
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Ok, now for the bow section.
I had been wondering how to finish the bow area ever since getting the plans 12 months or so ago, and it wasn't till after I started building in Jan this year that I came to this solution.
I bend a bit of 50mm x 6mm ply between the two ribs and play with the length and rise of the curve till I think... yeah, looks right.
Then glue up the ends and add a couple of screws to hold it while it goes off.
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Next I add a brace in the centre, making sure that the curve is even across the bow.
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Then in go the cleats. It is hard to see here, but there is also 12mm ply cleats on the inside if the hull on each side of the bow.
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Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2004 10:43 am
by MadRus
That's beautiful. I can't wait to see it finished. This is one versatile 13 footer.

-Dave

Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2004 3:18 am
by alexit
The shape of the ply top was traced directly from the frame shown in my previous post leaving an overhang on the inside edge to allow it to be trimmed back to the frame later. The screws you can see were just to pull the top into place while the epoxy went off. I removed them later and filled the holes.
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As you can see I have made the top finish at the same level as the current gunnel, not just sitting ontop.
It just gives a better line.
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Step back to get the bigger picture....
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And I must say, I was very pleased to see how it sits with the hull from this angle. :D
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Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2004 3:56 am
by alexit
The last of the fillets...the seating...yay!
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You can see that I have spaced short lenghts of 2x1 'ribs' down each side. I did this for a few reasons...
To give a bit of extra support to the sides, as I had cut down the hull framing to seat level as stated in a previous post.
It allows me to run length of 2x1 along the top of the gunnel and onto the bow, creating a nice lip on the inner edge, and a rounded outer profile
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The maple 2x1 would not take the curve on edge, so I ripped part the way down the length to where the bow started to sweep in and up.
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I did a dry fit with screws, leaving a foot or so extra to help with pulling the last section in
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All went well with the dry fit so out comes the epoxy...
You may notice that I masked a small section just before the bow. I later cut this section off, so the top gunnel finished just short of the bow. I did this is where I intend on mounting the port/starboard fairleads.
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Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2004 6:46 am
by DrBones
Alexit, that is some phenomenal work! I really like how you approached your bow. I'm sure there will be others out there who will follow that idea. The curved panel there looks really nice. :P

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 4:03 am
by alexit
Here is a little detail that I did not mention before.
In an attempt to get a 'mostly dry' hatch, the front and back edge of the lid has an overhang. I have also routed a small channel along the inside edge of the hatch openings. I am hoping that this will allow any water seeping into the join to run along and out, rather than into the area. I will see how effective this is, and may still add that sick on foam seal later.
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Almost the last of those late afternoon epoxy fill jobs... :D
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Step back for a look...
That is about done for the innards, and ready to flip back over to fair the hull, sort the sprayrails and paint! :)
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Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 5:12 am
by alexit
With a little help, the hull is flipped and up on some milkcrates.
I took the chance to put some scales under her and she came out at just under 130kgs. A bit more than I calculated, but still on the light side for a 13ft boat with a raised sole, hatches etc. I'm happy with that. :D
I used microballoons to fair as I have a tub at my disposal. I know the Quickfair would have been nicer though I found that with carefull application, you can save LOTS of time on the sander. I also found a mixer on a drill made short work of getting the microballoons into the epoxy.
The fairing job is by no means auto-smooth, and I debated doing a second fill....nup. :lol:
You can see bits of weeve and such but you cannot pick the taping of the joins, and that is all I was after really.
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The sprayrails I was worried about, and even considered leaving them off.
A quick look on this forum and a poll of small boat owners at work stopped that idea short... not good.
You see, there is no real way to hard clamp the rail and I don't like the idea of screws into the hull...... :doh:
So.
I get my chosen profile....which is 38mm quarter round 'quad', and starting from the stern, cut it into short sections that follow the chine...no bending...no clamping...no worries!
Let me explain.
The first section was a straight 1.5m then I had about 10 smaller bits of about 150mm and the last piece I shaped before glueing. All these sections were applied like you would laying bricks, using an epoxy glue mix of course. :D The best thing being that the epoxy held the small bits really well, needing only a bit of tape to sure it. A bit fo carefull filling and a sand after and I have my sprayrails.
I do not know if others have used this technique, but it works and it is easy. Maybe not so good for structural areas like the gunnels, but for sprayrails!!!
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I also added a layer of light glass tape over the rails as they are quite exposed the glass should help keep them sane.
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A bit of a sand to bring the rails into the hull and I think it is ready for paint.
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GV13

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 6:40 am
by ausie
Alex,

Glad you did the spray rails..(how doesn't matter)....the ones on the GV11 keep the boat very dry!..& by being coved to the hull,form a small lift strake which can only help at planing speeds.

Al. Burke.

Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2004 6:02 am
by alexit
I am going for the International brand paints for this boat. First the primer, then pre-kote and finish with the Brightside in off-white and royal blue.
I gave the hull a wipe down with thinners before a good brush coat of primer, a light sand, then two brush coats of the pre-kote (sanding again between coats), then finished with spray equipment for the final coats of the Brightside off-white.
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I took the chance to cut in with the blue on the undersides of the spray rail and the gunnels whist the hull was upside down. I also got in underneath and brushed in all the undersides of the seats and hatches.
A lot easier than breaking your neck doing it later... :)
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After a good week to allow the paint to harden, I flipped the hull back and primed + pre-kote the all internals.
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I used a quality brush for the Brightside giving two coats all over. Off white inside the hatches and on the seating, and royal blue for the rest.
Before I started with the Brightside, I gave all the floor areas and to a lesser extent, the seat tops, a non slip finish.
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The finish is not A+ thats for sure, but I figure this boat is to to be used.
It will be scratched, bashed, scuffed and all else that a small boat gets on an outing.
I'm not worried bout these things....the boat will develop 'character' I told my girl.... :)

Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2004 10:08 am
by MadRus
Beautiful Alex! Don't forget to post some shots on the water.

-Dave

Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2004 10:31 am
by fishingdan
Very nice.

Can you explain how you wieghed the boat?

Thanks

Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 5:59 am
by alexit
These posts have slowed somewhat of late as she has been on the water as of 20th March and...well I have other priorities now. :D
After the painting was finished, on goes all the hardware using sikaflex 291 to bed down and seal all the fixtures.
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Then on to the trailer to set up the rollers and skids.
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With the name finalised and a plate painted by Rachael, I was well on the way to a launching.
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The name by the way, follows on the line started many years ago by my late grandfather who named all his 4 boats 'Annie B'. I know he would get a real kick knowing I had built a boat and named it such. :)
On a low note, I had planed the weekend launch and waited till friday arvo to pull the motor out and make sure it runs ok.....
After 8 months sitting in the corner, the 15hp Suzuki starts 3rd pull...yeah... sounds nice and strong....good good...no telltail....doh!
The impeller..... needless to say, I had all weekend to ponder WHY I did not look into the motor weeks beforehand..... :doh:
So during the week I get the pump kit and install it to get a nice motor chugging away and ready for the coming weekend.
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The day arrives and the kombi has no problem pulling the rig through the Sydney traffic and down the ramp to the water at Iron Cove for the first test run.
The boat rolls off the trailer with ease and some might say I was happy to see it sit high and level on the water and dead on the chine... I would say I was....a very happy camper! :D
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Took her for an easy run out into the harbour, under the bridge and back and I must say she went very well indeed.
Stable and dry and handled the slight chop well.
Happy Happy Joy Joy :D
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As far as getting the hull weight, I was lucky to have use of a set of scenery scales....basically two large independent plates that take the item (ie the hull) while the weight is registed on a small display.

Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 8:16 am
by MadRus
Looks awesome Alex! Nice work, I like all the modifications you made, especially that bow cowl, I had a hard time coming up with a good solution for that area.

-Dave

Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 12:56 pm
by JerryF
Nice job on the boat. How do you plan to use it, for fishing, diving, or?
I think you will find that hull to be very versatile and adaptable for most any water borne activity. Let us know how it performs when you get a chance.

have fun,

JerryF
GV11+

Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 1:42 pm
by jasonmcintosh
Great boat and pictures! Thanks for showing us what you did! Happy boating.

jason

Posted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 3:21 pm
by Betowess
Whoo, fantastic work and clever mods, bringing an old thread back.

Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 5:07 am
by alexit
I have not been round here for quite a while and a lot has happened to the AnnieB since she was launched way back when.
I will get some pis together and try and bring this post up to date.alex

Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 2:47 am
by Betowess
That would be great to see Alex!