Wade's GV10

[wadestep]

After letting those bow splices cure for >24 hours, got it all spliced together last night. Took a little wiggling, and I used some cut dowels under the zip-ties to get the panels to lay right, but it all fit perfectly!

Now to screw down some straight 2x4s to keep the running surface straight, flip, straighten, and tack weld. Maybe tomorrow, definatly by Thurs.
wade

[David Sours]

If it's not too late...a word of caution. Check your sheer (hard to do with the boat upside down). Mine had a slight "hump" about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way back from the bow transom. This was evident when the side panels were against the seat frames. One way to get rid of the hump was to pull the bow transom up and back which gave the boat more flare and a very nice, sweeping sheer. The problem was that now there was about a 1 inch gap between the top of the seat frames and the side panels on both sides. I will fix that by adding a triangle of plywood the the frame, no biggie. If you've glued it and have the hump you can 1) live with it or 2) trim the sheer.
OR, all of this was because I screwed up somewhere and you don't have my problem

[wadestep]

Thanks for the heads-up. Unfortunatly, I tack-welded teh panels last night. I havent' noticed the hump, but I'm not always the most observant, either. Here's some picts as it sits now.



And my supervisor at his post:

I'll look for the sheer hump when I get home again, and also take a picture or two from the side when I get it out of the garage.

I'm straying from the order of the plans here for the first time. As you can see, I've flipped the boat over, measured the diaganols which came out perfect the first time (within 1/8"). The plans now state to fillet and tape the seams. However, the zip-ties are still in. So, I instead tack-welded all the seams that were reasonable, and put small strips of fiberglass tape across wehre I thought necessary (more near the bow where the ply is bending the most). I figure this will be enough reinforcement to be able to flip the boat over, remove the zip-ties, and then grind and tape the outside first. I will later tape the inside seams. That way I can completely remove all the zip ties before they get glued/taped in.
wade

[Cracker Larry]

Looks great Wade. Almost an instant boat I bought the plans for the GV10 a couple of years ago and haven't got around to it yet, but it's still on the list. Should be a very functional little boat.

[kjackson]

That does look good. I need a boat to fit inside my Tundra, and was thinking of shrinking a GF 12 to a GF 10, but this might be better.

[wadestep]

That does look good. I need a boat to fit inside my Tundra, and was thinking of shrinking a GF 12 to a GF 10, but this might be better.

Gimme 2 months and I'll be the guinea pig and post a picture of it in the bed...

Today I grinded the outside edges to a tape-able radius, then went over them with the 1/4-sheet sander to kinda smooth out the grinding unevenness. Then I taped up the seams with Duct-tape on the inside, put the boat upside-down, and went to town:
First, I taped the chine, bow and stern transoms. On the keel and stern transom I used left-over 12 oz biax tape. The plans called for 2x 6oz cloth tape on the keel instead. The 12-oz plus the cloth covering you're about to read about should be an overkill substitution. Then I used the called-for one layer of tape on the chines. While still wet-on-wet, I covered the hull bottom and both bow and stern transoms with 6oz woven cloth. The cloth width fit just right off the roll on the bottom - It just touches the tape on the chine on both sides. We were able to roll it right off the roll without cutting the width.

I am making lots of fast progress, compared to the OB19. It's amazing how much faster we get a job such as this one done with 2.5 years of practice, and on such a smaller boat. This boat is almost too easy to build.... I do admit I got a lot of help in the taping and cloth laminating process by my lovely wife, Robin. She is now a pro at this, too. Sometimes 2 people working together are more than twice as fast as 1 person, bigger projects with wet-on-wet are one of the examples.
Using slow epoxy, we got the keel, chines, bow transom, stern transom, and cloth laid down all wet-on-wet. The taping and cloth laminating today took the 2 of us about 3 hours.
It's also really nice to be able to flip this boat again and again - makes many things much easier. The OB19 I only wanted to flip once!


Tommorrow to cut the excess glass off, and consider sanding and glassing the sides. Then time for some fairing, graphite.
wade

wade

[Cracker Larry]

That's a nice day's work, Wade It does get easier with practice, doesn't it ?

Now if you'd just send Robin up to visit me for a couple of days, we could get this GF18 glass knocked right out

[wadestep]

Glassing that GF18 is another undertaking altogether...
Went out this am, did just a little sanding, and layed down the first coat of fairing. It's still chemically bonding from the glassing yesterday afternoon, so I didn't go crazy with the sanding. The less sanding the better. After this step I will loos the benefit of the chemical bond. Work will be getting in the way this coming week.

[peter-curacao]

2 pages and you have a boat Looking good Wade!

[wadestep]

Thanks Peter. I figure we have abotu 20-22 hours into it so far.
Late Sun, while the fairing was still drying on the bottom, I laminated cloth on the sides.

I'm going to get a little fairing going there and then probably flip and work on the inside.
The thing I'm having a difficult time deciding is how much to glass. The outside hull I was sure I wanted to glass. However, How much to do on the inside? On this boat every little extra 10 lbs matters - may make the difference between planing or not when I get me, wife, dog, and a heavy 4-stroke 10hp motor on it. Plus I plan on lifting this in/out of the water sometimes. still not sure, but leaning towards glassing the entire inside, and crossing my fingers that the boat isn't a pig when it's all said and done. I've also added 1.5" to the sheer...
Only using 6oz cloth, however. It is lightweight and doesn't soak up that much epoxy.
What to do?????
wade