GV10 - Fast Garvey 10 - Waiting to fish in Salt Lake

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Spcmnspff
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Re: GV10 - Fast Garvey 10 - Waiting to fish in Salt Lake

Post by Spcmnspff »

Damn, now I'll have to double check when I get home tonight. I'm working late too - production outage. I seem to recall the details for the fiberglass splice being a 3:1 overlap of 4 inch tape on either side of the seam. And on both sides of the panel. I totally could have misread that. :doh: If this makes the panels less flexible at the seam to where I don't get a smooth arch, I'll be upset. :(
Sean

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Re: GV10 - Fast Garvey 10 - Waiting to fish in Salt Lake

Post by peter-curacao »

Cracker Larry wrote:I've never had any luck with the plastic. It makes more work than it saves IMO.
Try thicker plastic, the plastic I see on the floor is to thin, when you use a squeeze that plastic wrinkles or rips to fast when putting it on , while thicker works just fine IMHO. unless there is a lot of curve as you can see in my pic. (at the bow flair)
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Spcmnspff
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Re: GV10 - Fast Garvey 10 - Waiting to fish in Salt Lake

Post by Spcmnspff »

OK Wade, page 2 of the plans - illustrating the fiberglass splice shows 4 inch tape, 2 pieces with 1.5 inch overlap on either side. If you look closely there are perforated lines that illustrate the same thing on the other side of the hull peice - and something I didnt observe: alternating the inside and outside on the other side. I have a rather new copy of the plans having ordered them in april. One thing I found odd about my plans: There were no templates. This was a slight challenge while cutting the transom gussets using the nesting plans. I had to cut my own template from some 1/2 inch mdf I had laying around.

I think you're fine if you're glassing the hull though. I plan on glassing the bottom only and not the sides nor inside. I'm considering a light weight cloth over the transom to prevent the fir from checking.
Sean

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Re: GV10 - Fast Garvey 10 - Waiting to fish in Salt Lake

Post by wadestep »

Sure enough, its right on the plans as you said. The OB19 only used a single layer of 12 oz biax on each side to join the panels. Maybe that memory threw me off. Now I am really glad i am glassing it just to get back to design strength.
I haven't cut the gussets yet, nor the fwd seat.
Wade
Completed : OB19, CC14, GV10.

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Re: GV10 - Fast Garvey 10 - Waiting to fish in Salt Lake

Post by Spcmnspff »

Yeah you'll be fine. I'd take your good looking ones with one pice over my ugly ones with two any day. In fact it's prolly a good thing I used two because of my poor wet out technique. I made some progress last night. I'll have pics up in a while. Basically I'm at the exact same spot you were after 3 days. With transom sides and chines stitched aft and the sides stitched to the bow transom and the fore part of the chines hanging wild. This is the spot where some work is in order getting the pieces to fit. That'll be tonight.

I wish I hadn't cut the gussets or the seats yet either. That was smart. The plans say to cut the gussets wild and trim them for fit. I kind of overlooked that but a quick measurement seems to indicate they are a little long and will need trimming anyway. I couldn't get a baseline measurement to "loft" the gussets correctly using the nesting for the 4 th sheet on the plans. So I ended up making a template and tracing that out. No big deal.
Sean

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Re: GV10 - Fast Garvey 10 - Waiting to fish in Salt Lake

Post by peter-curacao »

You're welcome.

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Re: GV10 - Fast Garvey 10 - Waiting to fish in Salt Lake

Post by Spcmnspff »

Ok 2 days of progress and basically the boat is stitched together now.

Day 1 after work:

Cutout screwing cleats for the frame and transom on the table saw by cutting 2x4s at 1.5 " lengths. Screwed the sides to the transom. Measured down the sides for the location of the frames. I had to think about finding plum for the frames after finding the measurement along of the top edge of the sheer line until I realized the chine edge of the side panel is completely flat for good length from the transom toward the bow, well beyond the frame 1 location - I.e. the planing surface of the hull. I figured you want the seats and the frames to plum with this surface so I used a drywall square keeping it flush with the aft portion of the bottom of sides and marked a plum line at the measurements for each frame from the top.

So things went pretty well. I called it a night after getting the bottom panels screwed to the transom and frames but leaving them flying above the bow transom.

Here I'm actually checking my ipad using Wade's posts on his builders thread as a reference:
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Here's where I left it before I started the next day:
Image
Sean

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Re: GV10 - Fast Garvey 10 - Waiting to fish in Salt Lake

Post by Spcmnspff »

Day 2:

Started stitching the rest of the hull. I fought her for a few hours but I knew a little about what to expect. I had read some of threads where guys had a hard time stitching their gv11, in some cases taking a week two to complete.

So right away if I bent the bottom panels down to where they should go without having the chine edges stitched, they seemed long. Basically you have too much bend in your side panels when you stitch them to the bow transom without the chines stitched in. The chine seam will straighten out the side panel somewhat and also force the whole bow down (when hull is upside down). Both effects will stretch the side panels somewhat after they are stitched to the bow transom.

Working my way from aft to bow I stitched her keel all the way down first. I was fighting the port side chine and side panel seam on the bow side of frame 2 for a while. One panel wanted to sit inside of the other one and wouldn't form a good seam. I finally realized the frame was sitting low (or high when upside right?) on that side and re-screwed it to the side panel after having the wife give it a good push. Things went together nicely after that.

Still after stitching the keel and the chine edges I had an extra 1.5 inches on the bottom panel lengths. I started to panic until I realized what had happened. My plywood was 1.5 inches longer than 8 feet. When I traced out the sides, I compensated for this, but I neglected to do so for the bottom panels. Hah! A quick trim with the jig saw and we were back in business.

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This being my first boat, I'm probably a little more sappy than justified, but wow! What a beautiful design! I love the deadrise and the deeper v at the bow then flattening out at the plane. Very nice. Great design, Evan! I'm glad I chose this one. I flip-flopped a little before pulling the trigger knowing that a flat bottom would be easier to stitch. The extra time spent today stitching in the chines was well worth it. And she will make a very stable hull in a decent chop, I'm sure. =)
Sean

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Re: GV10 - Fast Garvey 10 - Waiting to fish in Salt Lake

Post by wadestep »

Looking good! That bow section does take a little time to get all aligned right (and force). yours looks excellent. It sure is gratifying to have a 'boat'-looking thing now to work on.
wade
Completed : OB19, CC14, GV10.

Spcmnspff
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Re: GV10 - Fast Garvey 10 - Waiting to fish in Salt Lake

Post by Spcmnspff »

Ok Friday night I Built a couple of molds to screw to my sawhorses and flipped the boat over. Here's pic of the plywood cutouts to hold the hull when upside right:

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Now that I've worked in this configuration for a few hours, I think the boat it too high to work on. My next step is to build something that will hold the hull lower, maybe 2 feet of the ground. Also, I had the 2x4s that the plans called for ready to cut and then decided i didn't need them. It seems to me the plans are calling for them during assembly. I.e. to aid the bow assembly by forcing the panels down when the boat is upside down. I looked at the aft section of my boat and with the screws in the chine panels tied to the frames, the bottom wasn't going anywhere and seemed perfectly flat. So I decided to save myself the hassle.

Right away the measurement from the corners that the plans called for was right on the money. Both coming in at around 128 1/8 ". But there is a whole lot of play in the bow, a kind of tortional degree of motion that can set these measurements askew rather quickly.

Next, I whipped up some filleting epoxy and tack welded the seams. The pot life on my epoxy is relatively quick at 20 minutes or so. And in stark contrast to a couple of weeks ago, it seems summer is now in full swing here in salt lake and the ambient temps are around 90 degrees. I've been forced to work in smaller, more frequent batches to keep the stuff from kicking on me while I'm laying it down. I'm still working out my formulas for smooth fillets. But the best has been a tad less wood flour than a 1:1 with mixed epoxy and about 1/3 as much fumed silica. My epoxy came with ratios designed by weight and I use a scale to meter it out, so I imagine I could leverage this to get more precise with the formula. Here's some of my better work:

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And here's an over all view of whole inside.

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So Sunday afternoon - 2 days after the tack welds, I was able to remove the screws to the frames and transom and cut free all the zip ties. The welds held together perfectly - no concerns there. I am still able to twist the bow of the boat a little and get different cross measurements even after the welds are in place. Allowed to lie naturally, it wants to line up square, but still there is some flex in it. It seems to me this won't fully go away until frame 3 is in place. Also if I knew this on friday night, I think I would have avoided flipping the boat entirely and tacked welded her upside down. This would have given me the chance to tape the inside seems completely wet on wet after the fillets. Now only the non tack welded spots will be wet on wet and I will need to sand before proceeding. My whole motivation for flipping her and tack welding on the inside was to get her locked into the configuration where the cross measurements matched up. Now that it looks like there is going to be some play until frame 3 is down, it didn't really matter and it would have been cleaner to tack weld it from the outside. Oh well, that's why I'm the first timer. Hah. The plans say to flip her and do the seams all in one shot, incorporating your zip ties into the fillet then trimming and sanding them later after everything is cured. I.e no tack welds at all. But I wanted to avoid that. And from most of the build threads that I've read that's a fairly common opinion.

So I did duck tape the outside seams to help prevent sag but only in the locations where the welds were going. If I had thought it through, I would have taped the whole seam knowing the next step is to finish the inside seams altogether. As it is, some of the welds sagged anyway at the edges of these tape segments. I test sanded one or 2 of these with the RO sander and an 80 grit disk and was surprised at how well the fillet material sanded down. I've heard night mares about sanding this stuff but it seems the silica is doing its job.
Sean

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