AD 14 KIELGE

[bondo]

That is great looking work. Love the pictures. My understanding is the fiberglass wrapped around the outside of the trunk is where the strength comes from. (and the frames as Stuff said) The wood isn't counted on to hold the trunk together. I used Phillapine Mahogany for all my hardwoods but I don't know what's best. I fiberglassed the inside of my trunk parts before assembly but the centerboard (with no painter) actually bears against the keel shoe if allowed to drop.

[das boot]

I made some mistakes while glassing the inside of the keel box after putting it in place and glassing it I put heave glass around the corners thinking it was smart but it was to heave to take the bend and I have had cracking problems with it last year I had to grind a bunch of off and re do it . As for the pin I used a SS bolt my thought was while traveling the doul could brake letting the keel drag. The only problem as after the first year the holes in the side of the keel box started to go out round so I drilled it out bigger and put a brass tube through booth the box and the keel. I then put a reinforcement on the outside of the keel box after it was all lined up and bogged in place I used a hack saw blade to slide down beside the keel and cut the copper tube on booth sides. After cleaning it up it looks good and have had no more problems with it when the keel is down I stick the bolt into the hole that stops the keel coming up if inverted while trailing I put a a lock nut on it so it can not fall out it works fine.

[gonandkarl]

Thank You Bondo and Das Boot,

The two of you are teaching me hopefully right up to the end of my boat.

Thanks for the tip that the strength comes from the outside fiberglass.

I will just fiberglass the big inside panels of the centerboard case and put enough resin on the battens and I will be using beech wood for battens because jaques advised that the weight gain of Paulownia is minimal and one should not risk using it.
I will make the locking pin like you explained and because I have lots of ss pipe and ss rod from the pivot over I will be using 2 pieces of pipe and a ss rod as the pin on the case including some reinforcement on the deck sides.

I wish George a speedy recovery and Bondo that he will be able to post soon the newest pictures of your very last lap towards the splashing. I am writing from my bed in the local hospital (is only 200 m away from my house) where I am staying sinc Dec 23 because of a slipped disk in my back after having transferred all my lead pieces into the winter workshop in much too heavy buckets in the wise foresight that they are ideal as weights for the splicing.

Lesson learned : Dont carry heavy weights and definitely not with one hand.

Happy New Year and greetings from Karl ( Austria )

[gonandkarl]

Hallo everybody,

I have a specific question to all Adelie builders:
On the nesting plan sheet is the suggestion to cut out of a 13 mm plywood the rudder twice, the transom 3 times, but the stem only once.
Did you all build your Adelies with just a 13 mm thick stem ?
I tend to laminate 2 pieces to have more strength in it like the rudder.
( I am thinking specially about pulling the boat onto a trailer where the whole weight of the boat is on the stem. )

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

[bondo]

Hi gonandkarl. I built mine with only 1 layer of plywood per plan. I don't have any concerns about strength. The fiberglass tabbing inside and out are strong and overlap/double each other. I have a plate washer backing the inside of my bow eye. I don't expect too much of a load under normal use but I'm sure the bow eye could handle the full weight of the boat. Btw, I carelessly installed my stem with a twist in it. I have been chasing after it ever since to make it look right. Hope you guys are doing well.

[gonandkarl]

Hallo Bondo,

Thank you very much for the info, I will do it naturally your way. I forgot that the strength comes from the fiberglass connection to the sides of the boat.
I am doing well with my build and I will post some pictures as soon I have the cradle finished.

Did You actually bevel the frames of the cradle to follow the form of the bottom and sides of the boat ?

Greetings from Karl

[bondo]

Hey gonandkarl. I did not bevel any of the cradle frames. However I did re adjust and modify my cradle several times along the way to better fit what I had. For example, I know my hull is about 1/4" deeper "V" than per plan in the middle. Check, and re check to know what's going on but at some point you"ll want to build the boat that's in front of you.

[gonandkarl]

Hallo everbody,

At last a bit of a progress report:
First I had to modify my entrance to the building shed, because I decided to use it rather than the only single garage we have got:

The shed beforehand:



The shed with the new opening:



And then with the original door mounted on the left handside on a removable half frame and
two doors which can be lifted out easyly:



Then I played with pouring lead into the centreboard, which was ok but right at the end on the big hole I poured the lead to hot and to much and it melted out thru the bottom support of aluminium:



That means still a lot of work to get it completely flush with the surface.

As the keel is build of about 10 narrow pieces of plywood I decided to use the cutouts for the centreboard as lamination pieces for the tiller. I hope it will become a nice tiller:





Then I carried on a bit with the centerboard trunk and it is now ready for sanding and installation.
The bottom curvature I will only cut at installation time, therefore it stands evenly on the work bench



Next came the lamination of the side and bottom panels:





And in the last few days I finished the cradle and stitched bottom panels and the starboard side panel:



The bottompanels I stitched finished beforehand and then could open them like a book into the cradle:
( I learned this from Devlins boat building book )





That is all for the day and I wish You all happy building.

Greetings Karl

[bondo]

Looking good Karl. I like the new access. Very professional job. The boat parts are showing nice work too. I read the Devlin book as well. Speaking of Devlin, his fillets are much larger than specified in the AD plans. I wanted slightly larger (for no reason) radius fillets than the 1/2" called for but I ended up too big. I was afraid to pour the lead but it looks like you've got it. I worry that a plywood-laminated tiller might have some unwanted flex to it. Looks like a great place to build a boat Karl. Oh, you might be interested, the DWL for an AD14 is 1,340# and the PPI is 240#.

[gonandkarl]

Hallo Bondo,

Thank you for your answer. As if You must have guessed I was puzzling in the last few days about the displacement of AD14 because of the trailer that I should get.
Did You get the figure 1340 pounds for DWL and 240 PPI from Jaques or did You weigh your boat ready to sail and calculate the PPI figure somehow ? That would mean about half of that in kilogramm the trailer should be able to carry as a load weight. The PPI is mentioned by Ted Brewer as rather more interesting than the DWL. My understanding of pounds per inch is the pressure onto the submerged part of the boat. Am I right with this or what else can one interpret out of PPI ? Can we deduct from this figures that our AD14 is a heavy displacement hull ? For me the questions never end.

I have 2 questions that You can answer for sure.
Did You put the boats sides onto the bottom panels with a little gap for putty and then bevel the bottom panels to be flush with the sides or did You put them edge on edge and have the putty and taping do the corner ?
( Devlin suggests to bevel bottom and side by 45 degrees, which I did when I built Micro-Petrel, but I think it is not necessary and one could save time.)
Did You fiberglass the inside of the boat as advised in the notes just above the chine or all the way up to the sheer ?


Greetings Karl