Justin's P19

[Hope2float]

Hey Justin that looks like a fine job of stitching. Just remember to keep a flat plane 8 feet up from transom. When you perform all of the transom taping it will probably be a 1/4" higher then the hull bottom. Use 12 oz glass to make up for the difference just forward of the tape. Cracker gave me this solution instead of adding pounds of fairing compound then proceed with fairing. Your hull looks great and my p21 had good lines but maybe a slight droop it still took a flat foredeck. I had multiple layers of plywood for the windlass.
If you choose to do any light cloth over say a 12 oz make sure you fill the weave of the 12oz with wood flour slurry to avoid the hundreds of air bubbles that I had to grind Into with carbide ball on my dremel. One of my stupid mistakes that I paid dearly for.
If you tape the chine and keel and let cure sand it and fill weave with woodflour before laying bottom glass. These are my .02 if anyone has a better solution please share it. Let's help him to not learn by mistakes
BUILD-ON!
Dave
Can't wait to see this one. Joe's is almost there and looks fine as well

[justin_dwyer]

Thanks for your replies Joe, Eric and Dave.

I fixed that hook near the transom pretty easy with a couple of shims on Frames E and F.

I also see what you mean about the bow droop now, pretty obvious when you get on the floor and have a look. I got a couple of G-clamps in there and pulled it back as far as I can with the bow mold, but I reckon it needs to come back about 6 inches or so to get rid of it, I can't see it happening with the bow mold in the way, and I double checked all the dimensions and distances etc.

Is this a problem with the design or what?

Anyway, I reckon I will just forge on...what is a little "droop" if it floats.

When I come to doing the deck I might engineer a new bow piece to continue the curve upwards. I'll see how creative I feel at that stage. I don't feel like unstitching it and cutting the bow piece at this stage...might be something that I regret, but hey!!

Thanks for your tips on filling the weave Dave, I'll do that for sure. Might hit you up again when I get tho that stage.....hopefully sooner rather than later

Thanks again for all your help.

[Walkers Run]

I couldn't get the droop out of my cs 25 at that stage either. I used meranti instead of okoume. At first I thought I would leave it but decided to get rid of the droop by adding a tapered piece of ply to the top of the shear. I glued it in place and put 3 layers of tape in and out, probably over kill but it's pleanty stout. I didn't take any pictures of the process but you can see the finished repair in this one.

On the other hand a lot of boats actually look good with a little bow droop.

[Hope2float]

Justin don't sweat the bow droop. You can also compensate for it a little when you attach the rub rail. Just don't pull it down that much to the shear, fill void with woodflour mix, shape to hull and through a piece of glass over it. I believe the bow line will line up on a parallel with the hull line. I also think the drop is part of the design, but I maybe wrong. Back to the boat it looks great and it is a good starting platform. Don't analate over it it will suck up valuable building time. I guess I'm saying think ahead but move forward as well. These guys can help with any issue and give you a heads up most of the time before the mistake is made. Post a lot of pictures 1 because we like them 2 somebody might see something that may need attention.
BUILD-ON!
Dave

[justin_dwyer]

Good suggestions, thanks.

Walkers Run, I was thinking of doing something along those lines, however I do like the idea of building up the shear with the rubrails, I'll give that a crack when I get there.

Good idea about moving forward Dave, I tend to overthink things in order to get it perfect, but it will be faster to sand for 3 extra days than think for 5 days before doing something

No more boat pics for now, so I thought I'd post a fish pic of a mackeral I caught last week, which helps with the motivation to get this boat built so I can get out wider.

Cheers
Justin.

[Joe H]

Justin,
Nice mackeral, I've never caught a fish that big! Maybe next year at Boca Grande I'll tie into one of those Tarpon.

No worries about the bow droop yours looks fine but I do like what Walkers Run did with his but I don't think yours looks that bad, I also adjusted my rub rail a little, I'll get a close up pic of it soon.

Nice fish.
Joe H

[justin_dwyer]

Hi guys,

I have finished stitching and taping the insides of the chine and keel to start tacking the hull with epoxy, hopefully tomorrow.

As a last check I put a straight edge on the keel and planing area to make sure they flat, and I have a problem.

Getting this hull together is harder than I thought, I'll feel so much happy when the hull is locked in shape!

The keel is straight with no hook, etc however one side has a slight rise in the centre of one panel, I thought it was resting on a stringer perhaps, but doesn't look like it from underneath. The curve is about 5mm in the centre, given that I will have slightly higher edges from chine and keel taping do you think I will be able fair this out?

I really don't want to unstitch it

What are the potential problems with the boat if I leave this and I don't get it 100% fair?

Thanks again for help.
Justin

[Hope2float]

Post a pic of the area with a straight edge so we can see. Better to get a few opinions then to move on and have a problem.
BUILD-ON!
Dave

[Shamrock Kid]

The keel is straight with no hook, etc however one side has a slight rise in the centre of one panel, I thought it was resting on a stringer perhaps, but doesn't look like it from underneath.
Justin

Is there a chance you might have stitches that are to tight causing the rise? You may have to add weight to the area in question to get it to lay down until your done filleting. But make sure the panels are not to tightly pulled together. They should be relaxed with a small gap between them. If you find an area that is to tight you can just redo that section you don't need to restitch the entire hull. But pics help allot.

[justin_dwyer]

I decided to fix that problem with the hull now before fairing, from what I have read that is the worst job of building the whole boat, so I don't want to be doing anymore than I have to.

I will post pictures soon, but I removed the stitches from the panel in question down to where the bow starts to curve, tied a rope around it and suspended it from the roof and I got under it and got into the srtingers with a wood rasp to knock all the high edges off.

If I made the stringers again I would take about 10mm off the outside piece before gluing them together, that way they would take the shape of the hull. I have shaped this on, but before the outside was square and was sticking up above the frame. I hope this makes sense?



On laying the panel back down and having a quick inspection, it all looks good.

I'll finish it tonight and post some pictures.