I don't have an iPod but Google revealed this:
To "right click" on an iPad:
Locate a link, page or image on which you wish to "right-click."
Press and hold your finger on the item for about five seconds. A menu appears with options such as "Save," "Copy," "Paste," "Select" or "Open in New Page."
Lift your finger and tap the appropriate option. If you don't want to select any option, tap the page outside of the menu
Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_8285170_right-ipad.html
JustInCase FB11 build
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2014 6:23 pm
- Location: Alabama
Re: JustInCase FB11 build
I puttied the joints between the ties and added some glass to hold it together.
And then filled in all the fillets:
Then I coated the inside and outside with a thin coat of epoxy:
I'm leaning so that's good. I got some runs on the epoxy on this planter box that's not a big deal but would suck and have to be sanded off on the boat....need to maybe use less epoxy or use some other techniques.....I'll play around with thins a little more while I start to lay out and cut my parts for the FB11
And then filled in all the fillets:
Then I coated the inside and outside with a thin coat of epoxy:
I'm leaning so that's good. I got some runs on the epoxy on this planter box that's not a big deal but would suck and have to be sanded off on the boat....need to maybe use less epoxy or use some other techniques.....I'll play around with thins a little more while I start to lay out and cut my parts for the FB11
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2014 6:23 pm
- Location: Alabama
Re: JustInCase FB11 build
ok I'm over half way through my holiday and haven't even started on the real project.
It is cold and rainy here with highs ~50 deg F lows around 30 F and high humidity and that is making my epoxy experiments on the planter slow to cure under plastic it's taking about 16hrs to cure up, Exposed on a wood surface 24 to 30 hrs The residue in a cup is hard in ~8 hrs. So my experiments are going very slowly. My roll of glass tape has one edge that blends easily and one edge that just wont lay flat... I'm considering trimming that edge off just be for laying it down. I think the roll has a defect on the weave on that edge. Its better if you cover with plastic and squeeze it out but will likely still leave a lip to sand off prior to fairing...that could be a lot of work. I tried using both a painters plastic drop cloth and a kitchen trash bag to cover the seams and the thicker film drop cloth is easer to get the bubbles out of....I still need a better method and was unable to find a proper fiberglass roller locally. I'm going to finish the window box planter today and after painting will cannibalize the used small paint roller that has a solid plastic center with a 1/2" OD and see if that works better for working creases and bubbles out from under the plastic.
I'm getting ready to jump in on the real project the fist big decision was what kind of joints to use on the long panels. The plan calls for a scarf joint or a router lap joint and the notes from the site say a butt joint is fine. I don't have equipment to do the scarf joint so I'm looking at either butt or lap. I made up an sample of each using scrap wood from the planter and did it quick and dirty dong both sides at once and not being very carful with air bubbles but this is what I got:
Both seem look adequate I'm thinking that the lap joint is stronger but I'm also thinking that it may be too stiff to bend properly and could result in flat spots in the hull.... what type of joint would you guys go with on something with the curvature in the FB11 and should I join the whole panel and then cut them out or cut them out and then join them together?
It is cold and rainy here with highs ~50 deg F lows around 30 F and high humidity and that is making my epoxy experiments on the planter slow to cure under plastic it's taking about 16hrs to cure up, Exposed on a wood surface 24 to 30 hrs The residue in a cup is hard in ~8 hrs. So my experiments are going very slowly. My roll of glass tape has one edge that blends easily and one edge that just wont lay flat... I'm considering trimming that edge off just be for laying it down. I think the roll has a defect on the weave on that edge. Its better if you cover with plastic and squeeze it out but will likely still leave a lip to sand off prior to fairing...that could be a lot of work. I tried using both a painters plastic drop cloth and a kitchen trash bag to cover the seams and the thicker film drop cloth is easer to get the bubbles out of....I still need a better method and was unable to find a proper fiberglass roller locally. I'm going to finish the window box planter today and after painting will cannibalize the used small paint roller that has a solid plastic center with a 1/2" OD and see if that works better for working creases and bubbles out from under the plastic.
I'm getting ready to jump in on the real project the fist big decision was what kind of joints to use on the long panels. The plan calls for a scarf joint or a router lap joint and the notes from the site say a butt joint is fine. I don't have equipment to do the scarf joint so I'm looking at either butt or lap. I made up an sample of each using scrap wood from the planter and did it quick and dirty dong both sides at once and not being very carful with air bubbles but this is what I got:
Both seem look adequate I'm thinking that the lap joint is stronger but I'm also thinking that it may be too stiff to bend properly and could result in flat spots in the hull.... what type of joint would you guys go with on something with the curvature in the FB11 and should I join the whole panel and then cut them out or cut them out and then join them together?
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2014 6:23 pm
- Location: Alabama
Re: JustInCase FB11 build
So I decided to go with the but joint.
Ya well how did that work out?
Not Too Good!
Well what happened?
My plastic was too thin and pulled up into the but joint from the bottom.
The plastic was to thin on the top and stretched when I tried to pull it smooth.
I got air bubbles in the joint under the weights I put on it.
And to top it all of the roof sprung a leak last night right over the joint in the center of the panel.
notice the wet floor on the right and the white spots where I have air under the biax tape.
......and the leaking roof above:
I cut it apart and will make the two now messed up edges the out side edges when I try again.
I stacked the wood back on the pallets on the side of the garage where the roof isn't leaking.
Now I have to fix the roof and its 45 deg F outside with thunder showers all day. Then get thicker &%^#$
Plastic sheeting and try again..... Once the wood has dried out. I do have 4 sheets so may use the two virgin sheets to make the first parts after the roof is fixed. Lesson Learned Don't Cheep out! Get the thick drop cloth plastic not the cheaper thin stuff!
Ya well how did that work out?
Not Too Good!
Well what happened?
My plastic was too thin and pulled up into the but joint from the bottom.
The plastic was to thin on the top and stretched when I tried to pull it smooth.
I got air bubbles in the joint under the weights I put on it.
And to top it all of the roof sprung a leak last night right over the joint in the center of the panel.
notice the wet floor on the right and the white spots where I have air under the biax tape.
......and the leaking roof above:
I cut it apart and will make the two now messed up edges the out side edges when I try again.
I stacked the wood back on the pallets on the side of the garage where the roof isn't leaking.
Now I have to fix the roof and its 45 deg F outside with thunder showers all day. Then get thicker &%^#$
Plastic sheeting and try again..... Once the wood has dried out. I do have 4 sheets so may use the two virgin sheets to make the first parts after the roof is fixed. Lesson Learned Don't Cheep out! Get the thick drop cloth plastic not the cheaper thin stuff!
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2014 6:23 pm
- Location: Alabama
Re: JustInCase FB11 build
Got the roof fixed....damn shingle came off the end of the ridge vent. Got good 4 mil plastic...and I'll get back on it soon.
Last edited by JustInCase on Sun Jan 11, 2015 9:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: JustInCase FB11 build
You know that point where you're debating, "should I throw one more coat of epoxy on it?". I'm gonna say yes, you should probably take that extra precaution, just to be sure. And get yourself a rabbits foot, while throwing some salt over your shoulder or somethin. Can't be having bad mojo stalking a good boat.
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2014 6:23 pm
- Location: Alabama
Re: JustInCase FB11 build
So I took the 1st fiasco and decided that it was because this boat wants lap joints like in the plans so I broke out the router and got the first joint bonded up this weekend. Maybe after work this week I'll get the first 3 long panels cut out and then bond up the left over to make the 4th. If all goes well I may be able to start stitching it together next weekend...or maybe the weekend after if things go slow.
Here is the panel an it is waiting to cure:
Here is the panel an it is waiting to cure:
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2014 6:23 pm
- Location: Alabama
Re: JustInCase FB11 build
Things got busy and my progress slowd down and I quit posting.
Now I'm back with an update:
I got the parts all cut out in late January:
I got them mostly stitched together the first week of February:
Then it sat for a while, I had some trouble getting the bow and the stern to fit right.
I finally ended up trimming the long panels a little to make everything fit.
I then taped the outside and bonded it together with the inside fillets.
The picture was out of focus:
Then the inside tape. Followed by the outside,
then the 2nd bulkhead.
The PVC was to hold the 2nd bulkhead back against the fist on the bottom to keep them even.
Now I'm back with an update:
I got the parts all cut out in late January:
I got them mostly stitched together the first week of February:
Then it sat for a while, I had some trouble getting the bow and the stern to fit right.
I finally ended up trimming the long panels a little to make everything fit.
I then taped the outside and bonded it together with the inside fillets.
The picture was out of focus:
Then the inside tape. Followed by the outside,
then the 2nd bulkhead.
The PVC was to hold the 2nd bulkhead back against the fist on the bottom to keep them even.
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2014 6:23 pm
- Location: Alabama
Re: JustInCase FB11 build
Just to be clear I used a pice of 4 mm wrapped in plastic sheeting between the bulkheads to set the spacing. With the clamps on the top the bottom was bowing out. That is why I stuck the pvc pipe in there to hold it down against the spacer.
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2014 6:23 pm
- Location: Alabama
Re: JustInCase FB11 build
I got the seats all cut out and test fitted them last night.
It looks like a boat.
It looks like a boat.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests