Marschall DE25

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Cracker Larry
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Re: Marschall DE25

Post by Cracker Larry »

Dang Kyle, you are moving fast! If I could you offer any more advice at this point, it's to take your time, measure 3 times before cutting anything. Think it through and know exactly what you need to do before doing it. If you aren't sure, ask questions before proceeding. Somebody here will know the answer.
Doc dyer. We do need to go spearing. I have not really gone much.... Too many kids getting in the way
I talked to that Papa Doc scoundrel yesterday. He's dumping the kids and heading to the Bahamas for a week. He sucks too :lol:
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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kmarschall
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Re: Marschall DE25

Post by kmarschall »

A little bit of a learning curve but after help from Cracker Larry things are going smoothly.

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We cut the stringers and temporarily nailed them together to keep them in place.

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We then drilled 3/8" holes through them to insert dowels to keep the stringer in place while laminating them together.

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We roughly cut the dowels into about 3" pieces and rounded the ends of each dowel with sandpaper to make them slide in a little easier.

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Then we laid out half of the stringer and inserted the dowels before applying the epoxy glue and putting the two halves together.

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We held them together temporarily with roofing tiles placed on top while the epoxy cured.

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Cut the dowels flush and filled the gaps in the dowels with epoxy then sanded them.

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Then I temporarily clamped the mirror image of each stringer together and used this cool tool to make them true mirrors of each other.

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Every once in a while I would slip and smash the back of my hand into the table but eventually the sawdust stopped the bleeding. :D

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Next we cut temporary frames from OSB, Hung the transom and began to assemble the jig.

We glued the side and bottom panels to the transom and secured them with temporary screws while it cured. Then we slowly started to pull the hull panels together starting at the transom using zip ties. The normal ties we were using were rated at 75lb and worked fine from the transom up to about 2/3 of the boat but they kept snapping near the bow. We found 175lb ties and they worked great. Once we got the bow together we mixed up some putty to hold it in place. When that was finished curing we went back and used spring clamps to pull or push the side and bottom panels in or out slightly so they would meet each other uniformly and also not touch each other anywhere. Then we tacked them in place with putty.

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Finally we went back, cut the zip ties and filled the rest of the gaps with putty.

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Then the whole hull was sanded and the fillets were rounded to make them ready for fiberglass.

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We pre cut each piece of sheeting and tape beforehand then primed the hull with epoxy before laying the glass. We were able to get the entire hull glassed wet on wet.

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Now we just need to sand the glass and put on the skeg and spray rails. I have a few questions about how far to sand the fiberglass. Should we sand the fiberglass just enough to knock down the threads that hold the weave together or should we sand it until we can see the crosshatch in both directions of the glass?

We're still having fun building it and we came up with a name already! The Grey Ghost!

jacquesmm
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Re: Marschall DE25

Post by jacquesmm »

Very nice pictures and report. Thank you for posting.
Yes, I know about the bow shape on that boat. It was a compromise between ease of building (bending the ply) and performance.
It takes more work during assembly but it pays in performance. That volume in the bow helps a lot in semi-displacement mode.
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kmarschall
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Re: Marschall DE25

Post by kmarschall »

jacquesmm wrote:Very nice pictures and report. Thank you for posting.
Yes, I know about the bow shape on that boat. It was a compromise between ease of building (bending the ply) and performance.
It takes more work during assembly but it pays in performance. That volume in the bow helps a lot in semi-displacement mode.

Thanks Jacques. We are kicking around the idea of putting the engine on a bracket. Would this be OK with this design or would the center of gravity be disturbed making the transom sit too low in the water?

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Re: Marschall DE25

Post by jacquesmm »

It should work as long as it is not a 200 HP engine.
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kmarschall
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Re: Marschall DE25

Post by kmarschall »

jacquesmm wrote:It should work as long as it is not a 200 HP engine.
OK is the largest factor the weight or the power being an issue with 200hp?

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Re: Marschall DE25

Post by jacquesmm »

The weight but read the reports of other owners, the boat performs very well with a 90.
See a post by David Sours, I'll try to find it.
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Re: Marschall DE25

Post by jacquesmm »

It was a 115:
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php ... de25+de+25

Top speed is 30mph+. The boat is designed to cruise between 20 and 25 mph (he shows knots).
That is also the best fuel economy.
Build light, she'll get at 20 mph with a 50.

I think the 115 and the 90's are usually the same blocks, same weight.
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kmarschall
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Re: Marschall DE25

Post by kmarschall »

jacquesmm wrote:It was a 115:
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php ... de25+de+25

Top speed is 30mph+. The boat is designed to cruise between 20 and 25 mph (he shows knots).
That is also the best fuel economy.
Build light, she'll get at 20 mph with a 50.

I think the 115 and the 90's are usually the same blocks, same weight.
We're hoping to be able to take this boat diving. We will have 4 people, 6 dive tanks at 50lbs per tank, 100 gallons of fuel and other various gear. Will a 115 not struggle with a heavy load in this boat? We currently have a 198DLX Carolina Skiff with a 115 Yamaha 2 Stroke. When we load that boat and the seas become a little rough sometimes we have issues of bogging down when trying to push up waves.

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Re: Marschall DE25

Post by jacquesmm »

OK, I forgot that you were discussing heavy loads.
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