Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Hey all, so up to this point, we've been pretty bad about taking photos of our build, however, we have a few,so here's our P19.
http://gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=1742
What we've accomplished most recently is glassing the bottom and side panels. As you all can see it isn't the neatest epoxying job ever, but it seems to be quite strong. The one thing this really bugged us was a few small spots where we found two or three air bubbles; in the photos you can see the biggest patch at the bow, is the patch sufficient, or will it compromise the structure? We also put a strip of carbon fibre along the seam for some extra impact resistance (lots of logs floating around).

Also the next step for us is rubrails, spray rails, and the keg, so if anyone has some suggestions/ tips for length, thickness etc they would be greatly appreciated.

Slowly progressing with the build, sealed in the transom motorway cutout for a bracket later on. I also cut out strips of 1/4 ply for the rubrails, and also applied a layer of kevlar to the keel (which I mildly screwed up). Does anyone know the best length for the skeg? I've seen some dispute of over keg length and placement in other builds, so any info would be much appreciated.

grundasaurus,

You're making some good progress, I wanted a little lift in the back end of my P19 so I excluded the skeg and went for strakes instead, I think it helped, hard to say, she tracks great! Plus I didn't want a 3" skeg added on to the bottom of the boat.

I also did the 1/4 ply for the rub rails then added a rubber taco rub rail with a stainless steal insert, looks good and takes a beating!

I'd would show you some pictures but I can't post since adding windows 10 on my computer, see my gallery.

I like the idea of the engine bracket, should give you a little more room, you may have to add some weight in the front to balance her out.

Keep on posting.

Joe H

The Strakes sound interesting... How much lift do they add? We're planning on installing some trim tabs to help with trim amid ever varying loads of people and fuel, for the rub rails, did you laminate them together before you glasses them to the hull, or did you butt joint then laminate them together as they went on the hull? The boat will be used on the west coast which can get pretty windy, so I like the idea of the lateral resistance of the skeg in the harbour ( our other boat, a Grady freedom 205 has nothing like that and goes straight sideways in a light breeze at slow speeds). As for balance, I'm planning on adding a small potable water tank in the berth, which should help with the overall balance, one of these days I'll make a spreadsheet to keep track of the cg.

Is that carbon/kevlar? Kevlar alone is usually a yellow color.

The boat has a layer of straight carbon fibre first, then another layer of pure Kevlar on top, no carbon Kevlar weave at all

Does anyone else who's built a P19 know what the finished weight range is with engine? is it under 3000lbs? also what kind of speed does the boat get with a 90HP engine. More building photos/progress to come today. Also, I built a small rowboat in my basement over the winter, we decided to keep the inside natural wood, not painted, so any suggestions for a top coat over the epoxy, to protect it from UV? I've heard polyurethane words well.

They sell an epoxy with UV inhibitors in the store under the "epoxy" section. You can also use a spar varnish with UV inhibitors, but it will be softer.

Can the varnish adhere to a side that is fully saturated with epoxy?

With either product you'll have to sand the existing epoxy first. Something in the 220 range I would guess.

Can the varnish adhere to a side that is fully saturated with epoxy?

A good clear coat such as EMC will be much better than varnish and take less coats, and less sanding between coats.

With either product you'll have to sand the existing epoxy first. Something in the 220 range I would guess.

Yes, you always have to sand

Yes, you always have to sand

Tell me about it I've sanded enough for two lifetimes

Made some progress yesterday, we managed to install the brains, spray rails and the skeg. For the rubrails we used some nice doug fir 1x2s joined together at the stern, to avoid having a sharp join near the bow. The spray rails were really easy to install with some 1 1/4 inch screws, they also have a join, but it's near the front and actually turned out quite well. The keg is just a standard 2x2 there is a slight curve near the front, but I the mighty plane should make short work of that. I brought the keg all the way to the back of the hull since our outboard will be mounted on a bracket, so turbulence caused by the keg shouldn't be an issue. I also did a quick sketch of my pilothouse idea based of of one of JoeH's images of his boat (his windshield and flags are visible). I plan to also add a nice curved coaming coming off the pilothouse encircling the cockpit for a nice visual effect.

Does anyone else who's built a P19 know what the finished weight range is with engine? is it under 3000lbs? also what kind of speed does the boat get with a 90HP engine.

I have a Yamaha 2 stroke 90hp on my P19 and the estimated weight is 2400 lbs, 34 mph.

A good clear coat such as EMC will be much better than varnish and take less coats, and less sanding between coats.

I know nothing about EMC but I know Larry’s right about coats, 5 or 6 coats of a UV inhibitor Varnish, I do love my varnish!






Keep the pictures coming!

Joe H

With regard to the weight: I did not finish mine as completely as Joe H, but I did have a complete pilot house. I came in just under 2400 lbs with a 368 lb motor on the back and every thing dry. I measured 2950 on the scales when sitting on my aluminum trailer. Top speed the same. Staying under 3000lbs should be no problem, even with a bracket.

Yes, sand it to with 180 paper. Then coat it with EMC Clear coat. You can buy ii buy it by the quart. The EMC will last a lot longer than a spar varnish. The EMC will last 3 times longer than the best spar varnish at only double the cost. Good luck.

Tom

So we finally made some progress! We also managed to wrangle our winter dinghy project out of the basement (with an inch to spare) and slapped some navy blue on the sides of our P19. As is obvious, the P19 won't look like it popped out of a mould; however, the blue makes it look nice, and we can live with the little fairing mistakes here and there. More importantly, the bottom is smooth and level, our keg is in place, and now we just need to apply our layer of epoxy graphite before installing the bow-eye etc and flipping. One thing we've realized is that we're slowly accumulating a navy blue fleet since our GV11 is navy, the P19 is navy, and we could only source navy blue for our dinghy as well.

Nice to see another P19 coming together. I have not been keeping up the the forum lately so I had a lot of posts to catch up on. One I thing that should warn you about is the tendency of the P19 to weather-vane in any wind. All of the windage is at the front of the boat and the motor puts the equivalent of a dagger board into the water in the rear. Joe H reduced the problem by eliminating the pilot house almost entirely. You may get some help from a bit longer skeg than I used; but the motor is even further back. There are times when I am forced to let the cabin drift down-wind and back into a slip. For awhile I considered adding to the length of the skeg, but decided it would not make enough difference to warrant taking a grinder to my hull.

That said, this is the 8th summer we have used the P19 on the island in Maine and am glad we have it. The boat has opened up many enjoyable days visiting the other islands and touring friends and relatives about. Best luck finishing the effort and for many happy days driving it.

Hey all, so we finally launched our build, sorry for the lack of photos lately, but I'll be posting lots in the next coming while. Performance is very good with the 115, it'll get to 38/39 mph at full blast. I am really happy with the extended pilothouse, the interior is very roomy. Next summer we'll get the upholstery done and I'll continue wiring in camping gadgets here and there. The windows I made from plexiglass and I found a pretty straightforward way of making them, so if anyone is wondering about how to make them I can send a detailed process sheet. All in all we're ecstatic with how it turned out and can't wait to continue building it up.

Congratulations! Looks really good and sounds like it performs well too.

But no pictures for a few years and then a hey look at this beautiful finished boat is seriously a depriving the forum of some info on how you got from point C - point R. Some of us thrive on the progress reports of the builders while we are between projects ourselves. You’re going to have to add some more photos to fill the gap.

Just kidding of course.

Well done!

I recall that at one time you had thought about going with a bracket but it appears you ultimately ended up with a standard notched transom.

Did you ever pursue the bracket, or did you go straight to the standard transom?

The boat looks good, congratulations on the launch.

Hey all, I have tons of photos from the build that I'll post in due course. Life has been pretty busy these last couple years and the forum updates slipped through the cracks. We were looking at going with a bracket, but decided that since the boat is relatively short that it might throw off the balance significantly. The cost of a bracket was also a big factor, hard to justify dropping a grand or two for 9 inches of more cockpit space. What we did instead was create two rear seats like Grady Whites have. The batteries are under the seats, I would say they make the boat feel quite a bit bigger, and also much easier to get back in from a swim platform. we also added in a footwell between the stringers, having headroom in the pilothouse is really nice, and it's a modification I'd suggest to anyone building this sort of boat.

here are some other photos, also an update on our GV11, the Seascooter is still performing well. it had been at a shop over the winter waiting on a yamaha part, and they'd neglected to tarp or cover it in any way, and so some water found it's way in through a small screw hole, which resulted in a large part of the bottom being soft and damp to the touch (it sat FULL of water for 8 months essentially). I had to essentially remove all of the wood down to the fiberglass on the outside, and expanded the area until I was back to dry wood, I then laminated a ton of overlapping strips of tape running parallel and perpendicular to create a strong patch over the repair area. As a precaution I took off most of the interior paint to see if I could find any other trouble spots, and decided to leave the sides bare to give it a classic whaler sort of look. The console had also rotted out from the sitting water, so I rebuilt a new base which is in the photo.

Very nice repairs!

Great looking rig!