OB17 - Northern Virginia
- cape man
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 8278
- Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 12:02 pm
- Location: Lithia, Florida
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
It's not the cheapest product, but Quick Fair is the fastest and easiest thing to use. Fill the weave if you need to with epoxy mixed with the silica mix sold here, but use the quick fair afterwards. It goes on smooth as silk, and is easy to sand. Best way to mix is with a small scale, but I've also just eye balled a 1 to 2 ratio and have never had a problem with it setting up. I've found a sharp, metal plaster spreader works best.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
Decided to hold off on fairing until I completed the rub rails, skeg, and spray rails.
Cut enough 8' X 2.5"w strips from 1/4" oak ply for three layers on each side of the boat, and laminated them.
Draped a few weights on each side to form the hull tighter with Station B. Then, started applying the layers.
In parallel, I added the skeg. I cut a 8'x1"x1" strip of oak and planed each end.
For layers 1 and 2, filled the empty screwholes with the wood flour mix and started the filet with the hull
Started on the spray rails. Trimmed 3/4"x1 5/8" strips of 12' oak molding to 3/4"x 1 1/4" and kerfed a 1/2 dozen sections of the forward 8'. As shallow as possible, secured 1/2" PVC along the chine on each side. Spread the wood flour mix beneath the PVC and clamped the spray rails to the PVC.
While waiting for the spray rails to cure, I managed to apply the third layer of rub rails without any screws. Removed the PVC and filleted both the spray rails and rubrails with the hull. Then sanded...Then filleted again... Then sanded... Then glassed the spray rails
Figured now might be a good time to give the rubrails some color. Sanded them down then applied a pre-stain conditioner and gunstock stain.
I'll laminate the rubrails after they dry but I'm considering glassing them too. Over the next few days, I'll give the hull a light sanding and nice wipedown, then start fairing.
Cut enough 8' X 2.5"w strips from 1/4" oak ply for three layers on each side of the boat, and laminated them.
Draped a few weights on each side to form the hull tighter with Station B. Then, started applying the layers.
In parallel, I added the skeg. I cut a 8'x1"x1" strip of oak and planed each end.
For layers 1 and 2, filled the empty screwholes with the wood flour mix and started the filet with the hull
Started on the spray rails. Trimmed 3/4"x1 5/8" strips of 12' oak molding to 3/4"x 1 1/4" and kerfed a 1/2 dozen sections of the forward 8'. As shallow as possible, secured 1/2" PVC along the chine on each side. Spread the wood flour mix beneath the PVC and clamped the spray rails to the PVC.
While waiting for the spray rails to cure, I managed to apply the third layer of rub rails without any screws. Removed the PVC and filleted both the spray rails and rubrails with the hull. Then sanded...Then filleted again... Then sanded... Then glassed the spray rails
Figured now might be a good time to give the rubrails some color. Sanded them down then applied a pre-stain conditioner and gunstock stain.
I'll laminate the rubrails after they dry but I'm considering glassing them too. Over the next few days, I'll give the hull a light sanding and nice wipedown, then start fairing.
-Charles
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
-Charles
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
I'm really enjoying your build! She is looking great!!
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
Agree with Eric, really nice work!!! Jeff
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
Not even going to talk about the fairing process in this update because I really don't like thinking back on it. So I am just going to add a few pictures I took during the unpleasant process then jump into the good stuff.
Added a couple coats of System Three Yacht Primer before applying graphite to the bottom of the hull.
In total, I probably applied 5 coats of graphite, progressively lessening the amount of graphite in the epoxy mix. By volume, coats 1 & 2 were ~30% graphite, 3 & 4 were ~20% graphite, and 5 was ~10% graphite. With exception to the last coat, between each coat I sanded with 120 grit. The only rollers that I recommend are the "Better 9 in. Adhesive and Epoxy Roller" http://www.homedepot.com/p/Better-9-in- ... /100083297. For curves, tighter areas, and tipping I recommended the "Wooster Foam Varnish Paint Brush" https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wooster-Foam-V ... /999957729. I tried foam rollers and several the top end, 3/8' woven rollers, and they all shed with epoxy. Foam rollers do lay a very smooth coat but if the epoxy begins to cure, it will rip the roller to pieces. The mix certainly does apply much easier when warm but use caution if you try to accelerate that process with the microwave. I was 1 for 2 with the microwave, then switched over to the oven with heat at the lowest setting and door partly ajar. The 2nd attempt with the microwave cooked-off on the hull, shortly after mixing it and pouring on. That resulted in a mess and time wasted waiting out the cure period and then resanding. After the last coat, I sanded with 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, and finally 1500.
Taped off the bottom of the hull and applied two more coats of primer to the side panel. Noticed a few fairing flaws and correct them prior to the second coat of primer. I'm sure that I will add another coat later before the top coat.
Allowed 2.5 weeks for everything to cure, then pulled both the trailer and jig out onto the driveway in preparation for the flip.
Three large male adults and two lean male teenagers managed to flip the hull onto the trailer without any issues.
Added a couple coats of System Three Yacht Primer before applying graphite to the bottom of the hull.
In total, I probably applied 5 coats of graphite, progressively lessening the amount of graphite in the epoxy mix. By volume, coats 1 & 2 were ~30% graphite, 3 & 4 were ~20% graphite, and 5 was ~10% graphite. With exception to the last coat, between each coat I sanded with 120 grit. The only rollers that I recommend are the "Better 9 in. Adhesive and Epoxy Roller" http://www.homedepot.com/p/Better-9-in- ... /100083297. For curves, tighter areas, and tipping I recommended the "Wooster Foam Varnish Paint Brush" https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wooster-Foam-V ... /999957729. I tried foam rollers and several the top end, 3/8' woven rollers, and they all shed with epoxy. Foam rollers do lay a very smooth coat but if the epoxy begins to cure, it will rip the roller to pieces. The mix certainly does apply much easier when warm but use caution if you try to accelerate that process with the microwave. I was 1 for 2 with the microwave, then switched over to the oven with heat at the lowest setting and door partly ajar. The 2nd attempt with the microwave cooked-off on the hull, shortly after mixing it and pouring on. That resulted in a mess and time wasted waiting out the cure period and then resanding. After the last coat, I sanded with 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, and finally 1500.
Taped off the bottom of the hull and applied two more coats of primer to the side panel. Noticed a few fairing flaws and correct them prior to the second coat of primer. I'm sure that I will add another coat later before the top coat.
Allowed 2.5 weeks for everything to cure, then pulled both the trailer and jig out onto the driveway in preparation for the flip.
Three large male adults and two lean male teenagers managed to flip the hull onto the trailer without any issues.
-Charles
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
Glad to hear from you and great progress!!! I won't even ask about the fairing but what did you think of the S3 Yacht Primer?? Boat looks great!! Happy Holidays to you and your family!!! Jeff. PS, what do you think she weights now??
- glossieblack
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 4107
- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2013 1:28 pm
- Location: Australia
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
Very nice work, and fast work too. Well done.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
-
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
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- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:23 am
- Location: Kasilof, Alaska
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
Really slick trick with the spray rails
Your boat is coming along nicely. Nice and super clean work.
Your boat is coming along nicely. Nice and super clean work.
- cape man
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 8278
- Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 12:02 pm
- Location: Lithia, Florida
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
Wow.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
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