Thanks guys. Weather here is horrible, 40's and raining hard, so no more test runs. Plus I'm working this weekend and holiday.
Yes, there is a carb for each cylinder. I'll try that next time I get a chance. I'm going to dump the lower unit oil and refill too. I just have to know that it is not the issue.
Tim
GF16 -- Smart Tabs???
UPDATE
Well, I drained that crappy Penzoil lube and pumped her full as could be of wally world special. Took her out for a quick spin this afternoon and had similar results; 20 mph, down about 5 mph.
So I loaded it back up and came back home. Called up my mechanic and asked for help. He pulled a shop manual and talked me through some things. He said it was probably the link-n-sync or some roller cam or something. He was describing parts to me and I was poking them with my fingers. There are several sensors up under the flywheel with waterproof connectors. He told me how to check the timing and set that correctly. It sounded like it should have an idle timing of 4 degrees before TDC but the marked grid shows mine set at 0 or +1 degree. He said it would idle fast if this was the case and it does idle close to 1000 RPMs. Anyway I told him I'd need to see those directions to work it out and his shop is 3 hours away so he was going to scan and email me the sheets.
I decided to go out and make another test run anyway after I got off the phone with him. To my surprise the boat ran as it did before. I had my 5-6 mph back. There was about 20 minutes of daylight left so I hurried back home to reinstall the SmartTabs.
With daylight fading fast I got it back in the water. It sure is nice living a quarter of a mile from the ramp. These tabs are the real deal!!! There was as near to zero bow rise on take off as one can get. This should correspond to zero stern squat as well which is what I was looking for. I was short on time and the tide was high anyway, so I just stayed out in the river for the 5 minutes I had it in the water. I did notice about 1 mph loss in top end (WOT) speed for now though. I need to reduce the starting downward angle some to see if I can get the speed increase they claim is possible. I would be happy if I could just get back the 1 mph or so that was gone this afternoon. Even if I don't, these will be staying on my transom.
There was still noticeable pressure from the tabs pushing the bow down when at WOT. The front of the hull was not as clear from the water as prior to the tabs. This is not a huge issue on a flat bottom as it won't bow steer, but it was causing a lot of extra spray. In the stiff 20+ mph winds I did get a little wet from cross spray. I didn't have this problem before.
So with a little adjustment I expect for things to get even better gains from this new addition to the GF-16T.
I'll update again when I get her out again.
Tim
Well, I drained that crappy Penzoil lube and pumped her full as could be of wally world special. Took her out for a quick spin this afternoon and had similar results; 20 mph, down about 5 mph.
So I loaded it back up and came back home. Called up my mechanic and asked for help. He pulled a shop manual and talked me through some things. He said it was probably the link-n-sync or some roller cam or something. He was describing parts to me and I was poking them with my fingers. There are several sensors up under the flywheel with waterproof connectors. He told me how to check the timing and set that correctly. It sounded like it should have an idle timing of 4 degrees before TDC but the marked grid shows mine set at 0 or +1 degree. He said it would idle fast if this was the case and it does idle close to 1000 RPMs. Anyway I told him I'd need to see those directions to work it out and his shop is 3 hours away so he was going to scan and email me the sheets.
I decided to go out and make another test run anyway after I got off the phone with him. To my surprise the boat ran as it did before. I had my 5-6 mph back. There was about 20 minutes of daylight left so I hurried back home to reinstall the SmartTabs.
With daylight fading fast I got it back in the water. It sure is nice living a quarter of a mile from the ramp. These tabs are the real deal!!! There was as near to zero bow rise on take off as one can get. This should correspond to zero stern squat as well which is what I was looking for. I was short on time and the tide was high anyway, so I just stayed out in the river for the 5 minutes I had it in the water. I did notice about 1 mph loss in top end (WOT) speed for now though. I need to reduce the starting downward angle some to see if I can get the speed increase they claim is possible. I would be happy if I could just get back the 1 mph or so that was gone this afternoon. Even if I don't, these will be staying on my transom.
There was still noticeable pressure from the tabs pushing the bow down when at WOT. The front of the hull was not as clear from the water as prior to the tabs. This is not a huge issue on a flat bottom as it won't bow steer, but it was causing a lot of extra spray. In the stiff 20+ mph winds I did get a little wet from cross spray. I didn't have this problem before.
So with a little adjustment I expect for things to get even better gains from this new addition to the GF-16T.
I'll update again when I get her out again.
Tim
- Cracker Larry
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 22491
- Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2005 3:39 pm
- Location: Savannah, GA
Larry, I'll fill you in with what info I get on reverse next time or two out. I am not guessing I'll have much though as the tunnel really kills reverse as it is. I am going to rig up the ropes they show in the owners manual to pull them up when backing, beached, etc.
JB, the electric or hydraulic tabs would perform the same way at 5-6 times the cost. I couldn't justify spending as much on trim tabs as I did for all of the materials that it took to build the boat. If you can put that money in the budget then they are definitely better as they are manually adjustable. One other thing is that it adds another level of complexity to a simple craft. On my big flats boat, I don't think I could work another set of controls. I already have a hydraulic jackplate and tilt and trim. Add trim tab controls to the mix and I'm out of fingers and toes.
Tim
JB, the electric or hydraulic tabs would perform the same way at 5-6 times the cost. I couldn't justify spending as much on trim tabs as I did for all of the materials that it took to build the boat. If you can put that money in the budget then they are definitely better as they are manually adjustable. One other thing is that it adds another level of complexity to a simple craft. On my big flats boat, I don't think I could work another set of controls. I already have a hydraulic jackplate and tilt and trim. Add trim tab controls to the mix and I'm out of fingers and toes.
Tim
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