SOBX Solo Flats Skiff SK14

[seaslug]

The picture of the roller cover Peter shows is very similar to what I've found at Lowes. They are, Whizz Roller System 4" kitchen and bath 1/4" nap. They work excellent, and don't ever come apart while in use, and you can really work them if need be, pushing hard into epoxy fillets that are firming up. Mike

[Fuzz]

I think what was meant by small diameter roller is a laminating roller. Go to the building/tools site here and look for laminating rolls. You can get them in several different lengths and diameters.

[topwater]

Fuzz what Peter and Seaslug suggested is what we use, i like these better than foam but have used both.
Foam cigar rollers disintegrate after a while.

[BrianC]

Thanks all for the suggestions - all filed away so the next build will go faster!

I have a few questions about the bottom - if I am using epoxy+graphite (using CL's recipe!), does that go on first followed by the sides and boot stripe or should it go on last? For the hull I'm probably going to go low cost: either Rust-Oleum Marine Topside or step up a bit to Pettit Marine EasyPoxy - both seem to get good reviews here.

I've been away from the build the last few days - did get out fishing and caught three nice keeper spotted sea trout; here is one:

[Jeff]

Nice catch!! Jeff

[Cracker Larry]

I put the graphite on first, before the boot stripe or side painting. I usually just leave those in primer until the inside is complete.

Nice trout

[BrianC]

So I'm all done filleting the seams on the bottom - it took 2 passes to get them fully built up - much more work than the inside fillets. Tomorrow I get to use the new toy - a Dewalt 5" RO sander. As per the plans, I'll be rounding all the edges to 3/8" radius as prep for fiberglass. I assume that I'll be sharpening back up the edge where the bottom meets the transom since I've read here that the sharpness of that edge has an impact on performance. What about the chines - is it fine to leave them at a 3/8" or is there some value in sharpening them back up?

More pictures tomorrow - promise!

[BrianC]

The pre-fiberglass sanding is all done. I used a mix of Mirka Gold 80 grit and Klingspor 80 grit disks - it took about 6-7 sheets to round all the edges and give the hull a once over. This might be overkill but this will be my first large area fiberglass project:











I used a roundover router bit to put the initial radius on the scupper hole and the top edge of the transom; finished with the RO sander and a bit of hand sanding:


Temperatures are forecast for the low seventies next Tuesday so that's when the glass goes on. Still trying to decide between following directions which call for splitting the 50" wide cloth down the middle and overlapping the keel by 3". This leaves only 1" wrapping around the chine at the widest point so I'm considering 'wasting' a bunch of 6 oz. cloth by cutting wide enough pieces to cover the entire hull to the shear line.

[BrianC]

I've been accumulating all the other parts. I'm building the version with a large foredeck (starting at frame B) so will have two compartments with hatches. Also, I'm installing a small screw in inspection port (just large enough to get in my hand) so that I can bolt the grab rail with great big fender washers - didn't want to go with the braced grab bar because I want to be able to put a cooler with seat just forward of the grab rail.



Here are a few more shiny bits - bow eye and mooring rope attachments:


Lastly, I got a sweet deal on a Tohatsu 4-stroke 6HP:

[Cracker Larry]

That hull looks great It looks like I did it