SOBX Solo Flats Skiff SK14

[Dougster]

Brian, I just glued mine down and nothing else. No fillet. I meant to put a fillet on, but its just an inch high and seems solid so I haven't bothered. Mine is just shy of 6 feet long and 1" by 1". I figured if it comes off (and I notice ) I can just pull her of the trailer on to the grass, roll her over and glue anther one on. Your glass work it neater than mine BTW.

Dougster

[BrianC]

Thanks Dougster! I modeled the shape of my skeg after yours - tapered down at the front so it doesn't catch on things when beaching and such. I did have to go with softer wood than you used - no ipe to be found at Lowes or Home Depot!

- Brian

[BrianC]

The temperature got up to about 70°F today so it was build, build, build!

The skeg was cut and the edges were all routed to 1/2" radius. It is just over 6' in length and ends about 18" from the transom. Epoxy + wood flower glue was applied and a few screws were used to hold it in place. After it set, the screws were removed and the holes filled with epoxy + wood flower. I still might still add a piece of 6 oz. tape:


Next up: sharpening the back 6' of the chine and the transom edge. I picked up a few 7' lengths of cheap composite molding at Lowes, covered them in packing tape, and screwed them in place to form dams for a mixture of epoxy + milled fiberglass. After removal of the molding it looks pretty good, although there are still a few holes to be filled - here it is after a quick hit with the RO sander:



The rub rails were cut 1.5" high from 6 mm plywood - there will be two layers total (it will have scuppered inwales also). Then I prepped the surfaces to be glued: a quick sanding and acetone wipe down of the hull followed by a brushed on coat of neat epoxy on both the hull and rub rail. Next, I mixed up some epoxy + wood flower glue, applied it to the rub rail strip and clamped it in place. Since I had to splice together two strips, I made a matching slanted diagonal cut on both pieces. The ends will get trimmed after the clamps come off the second layer. Here are a couple of pictures of the first layer glued and clamped:



I'm getting closer to fairing. Just a few more touch ups to the sharpened edge and a second rub rail layer, then on goes the first layer of fairing gloop!

[Jeff]

BrianC, really nice work!! Jeff

[BrianC]

Just about done with the basic hull build - up next fairing. Using the info here on the forum, I built a fairing board:


It is about 30" long and 2.75" wide (to match the 80 grit adhesive backed paper). I used the same 6 mm ply as used for the hull. Do I need to stiffen the back or add any curvature, or is it good to go?

[seaslug]

Brian, I love the door knob handles for your long board. I made a long board with some plastic handles I had that weren't very sturdy, and I'll definitely make my next one with door knobs. Thanks for showing us that little gem. For your long board you'll want to ditch the plywood and use something rigid and dead straight like a 2"x4" or 1"x4". Most of your long boarding is for the wide flat sections of the hull bottom. I also use a lot of sticky back paper I purchase in rolls of all different grits, sticking it on whatever shaped piece of wood I need for a particular job. I also use those 24"x24" closed cell foam interlocking floor mats used a lot in kids rooms etc., and cut to what ever size I need for a flexible sanding pad. I even have a piece cut in a 6" circle to use with 6" sticky back disks. I use these foam blocks more than anything else for all my shaping and hand sanding.... Keep up the good work. Mike

[BrianC]

Mike, the door handles are called dummy door knobs - they are used in closets and such where there isn't a latch. They are just a non-turning knob attached to a plate - this makes them real easy to attach to the board.

Made some progress today. I added some tape to the keg and the first batch of fairing compound is applied:


Got some drips on the vertical surfaces. Looks like I either need to add a touch more Cabosil next time around (used about 4 parts glass microspheres to 1 part Cabosil) or mix it a bit thicker:


Good news came in the mail today, my registration arrived:


How do people mark the hull ID number? I could use a Sharpie, but that wouldn't look very good!

[Dougster]

looking good Brian. I'm about where you are. No time lately, but soon come. I think I look for excuses not to avoid sanding I used a numbers for the hull from a little decal kit for the purpose from Bass Pro. Easy on.

Dougster

[BrianC]

Four hours of sanding with the fairing board - now I know why people refer to it as a torture board! I sure am glad I'm building a small boat - the sanding of each coat of fairing could be a week long affair with a bigger hull. I wasn't sure how it was going to go, but I followed Cracker Larry's advice about 'feeling' the surface - sure can feel it better than just looking, every little bump is clear. Definitely a vitamin I (& bourbon!) kind of evening!






Next up, another layer to fill in the low spots and start it all over again...joy!

[Jeff]

Looking really good Brian!! Jeff