Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2016 9:40 pm**

Happy Christmas Eve everyone!
Well it's begun. After stalking and much inspired thread reads, I took the plunge. Please be kind as I post this journey. My hope is to build a good flats boat to create memories with our three children. Any and all advice is always welcome from highly experienced builders out there. Thanks to Richard for letting us see Red Alert...what a beaut! It definitely inspired the creative juices going. I increased the transom height to 27" knowing I would bring it down once heard from you. I will search the threads and figure which Jack Plate to use. Thinking 70ish hp for the Ozello area.
Thanks Seth on the larger casters. It rolls smooth.

Posted: **Sat Dec 24, 2016 9:52 pm**

Looking forward to your build. I thought about building this boat as well.

Posted: **Sun Dec 25, 2016 8:34 am**

Yes, the XF20 is a great boat!!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Dec 25, 2016 8:35 am**

Merry Christmas. My buddy I grew up with lives in Ozella and owns a micro draft made by Bill Henderson. When I visit we fish all over his area and out into the gulf. What a great boat. I've caught many redfish on it. He has a 70 Yami on it and it zooms along. Enjoy your build.

Posted: **Mon Dec 26, 2016 8:14 am**

When doing butt blocks, do you apply resin, glass,plywood, then repeat with resin ,glass for wet on wet? Or just resin and ply for now?

Posted: **Mon Dec 26, 2016 8:20 am**

Just saw Stickystuff's pics, and it looks like resin,glass, then ply. I'm a little slow

Posted: **Mon Dec 26, 2016 10:45 am**

Normally you'd use either glass to reinforce the seam or a butt block, not both. What do the plans say?

Posted: **Mon Dec 26, 2016 2:24 pm**

Looks very familiar. I just went with butt blocks no glass on the inside. Taped the outside after the butt blocks dry. I'm still not done with the boat so its not a proven floater yet, but I figure the tape and the 1708 layer on the outside will make her water tight.

Posted: **Mon Dec 26, 2016 4:26 pm**

pee wee wrote:Normally you'd use either glass to reinforce the seam or a butt block, not both. What do the plans say?

Correct. It's one or the other and the plans explain that.

See drawing E233/3, note # 7.
It says that we prefer fiberglass splices for the sides but we prefer butt blocks for the bottom. It gives specifications and more details.
Hundreds of those XF20's were built that way, do as the plans specify and you will be fine.

Posted: **Mon Dec 26, 2016 8:29 pm**

Thanks for the clarification on the butt blocks guys!
Stringer question. On the plans for a raised sole, it shows 2 stingers on the starboard side (4 total). The lateral stringers are shorter than the centers. 1) how much shorter 2) I'm assuming I'm gluing two 3/8 okoume stringers to make one 3/4 stringer

3) the plans show the stringers layed out on 4x8 to acct for 4 total but if I'm gluing them, it should show 8? And shouldn't the plan say "4 sets of 4 layers"?
I hope the photos convey my confusion. I ended up cutting all stringers the plans length. I have 4 sets of single layers. Do I cut 4 more sets and layer them.
Help

Posted: **Tue Dec 27, 2016 9:09 am**

There are only two stringers, one pair. Each pair is made from 2 layers of plywood.
The second "stringer" that you see in plan view is not a stringer, it is a stiffener for the sole, a batten (1x2 or 2x2), used to frame the sole.

See how the stringer looks: one set of dark lines in the middle plus the cleats while the stiffener is only 2 lines.

Posted: **Tue Dec 27, 2016 10:01 am**

Thank you. I was looking at Stickystuffs pictures where he has 4 stringers attached to bulkhead C. He was planning on a tower, I'm not. I'm modeling after Majorgator and Aripeka anglers. I plan on raised sole and deck powered by F70 yami. So two stringers will be sufficient?

Posted: **Tue Dec 27, 2016 6:28 pm**

Two stringers are fine. The boat built by Ken was highly customized: way too large engine, tee-top tower etc.

Posted: **Tue Dec 27, 2016 8:34 pm**

I put four stringers in my XF20. I basically copied the black boat that Ken built.
I put the stock pair of stringers against the tunnel per plan and added one more stringer on each side of the boat equally spaced between the stock stringers and the outside of the hull. Works great, the bunks of the trailer are directly below the outside stringers.
The black boat, Seth's and Red Alert are all pretty much built the same. Self draining soles, four stringers, full decks and over sized motors.
I actually know the current owner of the black boat, it's still chugging. The guy lives 3 miles away from me...

Posted: **Tue Dec 27, 2016 9:03 pm**

Aripeka Angler, nice to hear from you!! Hope the holidays are good for you and the family!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Dec 27, 2016 9:55 pm**

Working on tweaking dem stringers

Posted: **Wed Dec 28, 2016 10:31 am**

No veto from me

, you can do it.
If you plan to use a large engine and add a big console etc., you can build her the same way than Aripeka Angler.
I prefer to keep the boat as light as possible but their boats run fine with that little extra weight.

Posted: **Wed Dec 28, 2016 9:20 pm**

Jeff wrote:Aripeka Angler, nice to hear from you!! Hope the holidays are good for you and the family!! Jeff

The holiday was great for us Jeff! Hope it was the same for y'all.

Jacques, glad you are on board with a few minor tweaks

You sure designed a great boat. Happy New Year to all of you at Bateau...

Posted: **Thu Dec 29, 2016 8:04 am**

Richard,
Im going to ply three 1/2"meranti t/g for the transom. I'm going to have some left over 1/2" and was thinking about using it for the extra stringers. Do I still need to ply two 1/2" ers t/g? Meranti claims to be stronger than okoume.

Posted: **Thu Dec 29, 2016 8:30 am**

Freaknreakn, I am not responding for Richard but I would like to add that Meranti is a stiffer wood and harder to bend when compared to Okoume!! Not sure if this helps, Jeff

Posted: **Thu Dec 29, 2016 6:50 pm**

The XF I built only had a 60HP yammie four stroke. The jack plate had an 8 or 10' jack plate. Don't remember which. Keep trying to forget this boat.

Posted: **Thu Dec 29, 2016 7:51 pm**

Stickystuff, you may be trying to forget but looks like many others still remember the boat well!! Happy New Year!!! Jeff

Posted: **Thu Dec 29, 2016 8:41 pm**

Stickystuff,
Why are you trying to forget it. It was such a great build!

Posted: **Thu Dec 29, 2016 11:17 pm**

The black boat in particular was the boat that made me decide on an xf 20. I saw it on some Florida sportsman forum and that's how I found this site. Regardless of the problems it presented during the build and afterward, it came out beautifully. It probably helped sell a lot of xf20 plans over the years....or at least 1 more set.

Posted: **Fri Dec 30, 2016 8:06 am**

Regarding the black boat, it was indeed one of the models I used when building my boat. I relied heavily on Richard's build as well, as he was a little more detailed on the posts

But with the black boat, I think even Ken would agree that it might have a little too much "stuff" on it. It turned out gorgeous and a true show-piece, but it is far from the minimalist design of the base XF20. If I remember correctly, Ken told me that the hydraulic platform (and all its accessories) were a lot of trouble.
All hull and sole wood on my boat is Meranti. I didn't have any trouble with bending it, as the curves on this boat are long and gradual.
For the stringers, I glued together 2 pieces of 3/8" Meranti...and yes, I have 4 stringers. I believe you mentioned that you have some experience with the old billy-boats, which only have 2 stringers. Perhaps from a structural standpoint, this is acceptable, but even with 4 stringers I can notice some wavy-ness in the hull bottom when navigating choppy waters.
For the transom, I used a single piece of southern yellow pine (2x12). Other matrials might be better, but I recall having a lengthy discussion about this at the time. It is certainly well-encapsulated with glass/epoxy. The "ouside" part of the transom is 1/2" Meranti (from the bottom to the top) and the SYP 2x12 is the clamping board.

Posted: **Fri Dec 30, 2016 8:19 am**

MajorGator, nice to hear from you!! Hope you and the family had nice holidays!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Dec 30, 2016 12:02 pm**

Thanks Jeff! We had a great Christmas and I hope the same for you and your family.
I've not been very active on the forum lately, mainly because I just don't have the time

Business is keeping me fully occupied plus some, but its been good to take some time off and relax. The first few months of the new year should offer some calm, but that only means that the following months will be hectic.

Happy new years to everyone!

Posted: **Fri Dec 30, 2016 3:39 pm**

Freaknreakn wrote:Richard,
Im going to ply three 1/2"meranti t/g for the transom. I'm going to have some left over 1/2" and was thinking about using it for the extra stringers. Do I still need to ply two 1/2" ers t/g? Meranti claims to be stronger than okoume.

Yes, you still need to laminate two layers together to make your stringers.
The reason for this is to allow you to stagger the joints of the plywood strips that make up the stringers.
If you have scrap 1/2" plywood, by all means use it for the outside stringers.
You still must use two layers though...

Posted: **Fri Dec 30, 2016 4:09 pm**

Correct, thickness matters: don't reduce the thickness of transom. Same for the stringers, you anyway need 2 layers o offset the seams. You can use 2 layers of 1/2" for the stringers if you have leftovers from the transom.

Sorry for the previous confusion about the HP installed on the black boat. There have been so many customized XF20 included another black one with reduced freeboard but a very large engine.
The XF20 started as a prototype for Ken. At that time it was a very simple, very light shell without a sole. It ran well with a 25 but was not made for high speeds or choppy waters. Then somebody added a sole, then a gunwale, a tower, changed the framing and stringers. They are all a little but different but as Richard wrote, that's why you build your own unique boat.

Posted: **Sun Jan 01, 2017 5:14 pm**

What a great New Years Day! Got to work on the boat! Btw, the family named it "Gator Bait". Yes, it will be some combination of orange, blue, and white.
I've glued 2 of the 4 stringers t/g. Holy cow, what a mess! I hope I get better and neater

. If anyone has suggestions, let me have 'em.
This is a dumb question, but I gotta ask. Glue the three 1/2" meranti for the transom before or after stitching to hull/stringers/sides?

Posted: **Sun Jan 01, 2017 5:46 pm**

I glue them before but it will be heavy and you have to be ready to support the transom on the jig. A 2by4 with a couple clamps will do the job.

I love the spectator chairs! Are you going to have people watching while you build?

Posted: **Mon Jan 02, 2017 5:15 pm**

Freaknreakn wrote:
This is a dumb question, but I gotta ask. Glue the three 1/2" meranti for the transom before or after stitching to hull/stringers/sides?

I did it afterwards and after the after the boat was flipped. Didn't hurt anything in my case.

Posted: **Mon Jan 02, 2017 7:40 pm**

It's a matter of personal preference: either the gluing of the layers is easily done flat on the floor but you must lift that heavy transom and support it or you work with a single layer transom and adding layers later requires a little more work. Each method is valid, do what you feel comfortable with.

Posted: **Tue Jan 03, 2017 9:00 am**

Just a note. The extra stringers do not need to be doubled. It just gives more support for trailering over the bunke to keep it fromdagging. Also if you add T Top or towers you need to have

a support area for adding backing to mount towers etc to.

Posted: **Tue Jan 03, 2017 7:12 pm**

stickystuff wrote:Just a note. The extra stringers do not need to be doubled. It just gives more support for trailering over the bunke to keep it fromdagging. Also if you add T Top or towers you need to have a support area for adding backing to mount towers etc to.

Looking at your threads made me question "too ply, or not too ply"

Figuring more is better

, I doubled up.

Posted: **Tue Jan 03, 2017 7:25 pm**

jacquesmm wrote:I glue them before but it will be heavy and you have to be ready to support the transom on the jig. A 2by4 with a couple clamps will do the job.

I love the spectator chairs! Are you going to have people watching while you build?

Sooooo, I'm thinking clamping/epoxy these t/g will be easier out of the hull than in it (but what do I know, I've never done this before.....HA!)
Jacques, those chairs provide front row seating to the "best comedy act" south of FL/GA line, according to my beloved wife. And the labradoodle is to prissy to sit on the sawdust laden floor

Posted: **Tue Jan 03, 2017 7:45 pm**

Hey, that is a great looking antique truck in the background, what Year model is that truck!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Jan 03, 2017 8:11 pm**

Looks like a 70s bronco...

Posted: **Tue Jan 03, 2017 8:45 pm**

Jayson, that is what I thought at first glance but now I think it is a Chevy!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Jan 03, 2017 8:59 pm**

The early Blazers, the entire roof came off, like the Bronco.

Newt

Posted: **Tue Jan 03, 2017 9:14 pm**

Newt has it. Right over her head it says "blazer".

Posted: **Tue Jan 03, 2017 9:37 pm**

1971 Chevy Blazer. Being this is a boat forum, I'll keep it out of pics. I don't want to get flagged by the admin

Posted: **Tue Jan 03, 2017 10:28 pm**

Feel free to post some pics!

In the background of the some pics of Lil Bit you'll see a '75 MG Midget. I'm working on a truck acquisition for but the bank (aka mrs) is being finicky. Option A is a '47 Load Master (2.5t, short base with dual speed diff) with original stovebolt. Option B is a '74 Chevy that appears to be original equipment (long bed, AC, auto, 4x4). Hard to beat the LM for the cool factor. But AC tends to win for any summer driving.

Posted: **Wed Jan 04, 2017 6:31 am**

Nice Jaysen!!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Jan 04, 2017 8:44 am**

The only thing I see wrong is the blue and orange paint scheme. Gators?? YUK> GO VOLS

Posted: **Wed Jan 04, 2017 1:31 pm**

stickystuff wrote:The only thing I see wrong is the blue and orange paint scheme. Gators?? YUK> GO VOLS

Oh, you have no idea how orange and blue it is. The pics are not detailed, nor have I shown the inside. When I glue the last transom piece tonight, I'll include a few that will make even the most diehard Vol fan drool. BTW, I root SEC all the way, except against UF.

Special Shout Out to Jeff. Guys, if you don't already know, Jeffs a cool dude. He was willing to drive out to Yeehaw Junc
to deliver okoume wood, preventing shipping charges. Thank You Jeff!!

This weekend, I plan on stitching. I'm going to have to remove excess epoxy from the first two stringers b/c of sloppiness. The last two, my learning curve was much better. I remember seeing Majorgator lining his stringers up to sand/plane? them all the same. How important is it to make them all the same size, as well as the transom pieces. I noticed on the transom the bottom and sides are spot on, but the top edges could use a touch up. I'm also anal retentive(occupational hazard), and I might be stressing too much over tiny details.

Posted: **Wed Jan 04, 2017 7:20 pm**

I will stick with my Vols. I lived in Tenn for five yrs. Got hooked on them. They ride around in Orange and white trucks just like the gator fans do here in blue and orange. Where in Ozello are you? I live one mile North of the mall. My name is Ken. 352 342-6619 I will come by if you like. I am or was co designer on the xf20

Posted: **Thu Jan 05, 2017 2:31 pm**

Thanks for the offer Ken! The boat build is actually in Lady Lake, FL. We are closing in Ozello end of this month, supposedly. It has been suggested by my superior commander that I move the boat build there asap. For some reason, she, (no names but she goes by "wife" occasionally), would like her tidy garage back

.
Can someone tell her I'm making the world a better place with a bad A$$ boat

Posted: **Fri Jan 06, 2017 6:21 am**

Just read the stale mail. OOPS> Call me when you get the move. YUP the XF will take a lot of room and will make one hell of a mess when you start sanding and the like. Hury. Fishin season is just around the corner.Dont overload it with all the fancy do dads like the black biotch I built. Keep it light and you will be able to go further in the shallows.

Posted: **Sat Jan 07, 2017 9:05 pm**

Guys,
Trying my best to work on the xf20, but life gets in the way. Here are a few pics. As you can see I goofed on cutting the tunnel on the transom. I suppose I will reshape using fillets? If anyone has a suggestion, please give it

Posted: **Sat Jan 07, 2017 9:08 pm**

Here are the pics, just saying red wine delays the thought process

Posted: **Sun Jan 08, 2017 2:25 pm**

I decided to epoxy/fillet the piece I cut out back in. Then re-cut with the radius. Figure that's easier than trying to reshape with large fillet and sand.
On the tunnel construction, I'm making myself crazy trying to get everything as square as possible. Am I stressing over the little stuff to much

Posted: **Sun Jan 08, 2017 2:33 pm**

I put the hull on the stringers. I noticed where the panels meet at the 4 corners,I have a raised edge, at least 2mm. Should I sand this flush with the rest prior to laying glass?

Posted: **Sun Jan 08, 2017 3:04 pm**

Dumb question. Is Silver Tip EZ fillet used instead of fillets made with epoxy and wood flour. Because it's quicker and easier than mixing epoxy wood/flour? Has anybody used both methods and what are your feelings. I bought the 1.5gal thinking it would save me time and b/c I read people people had a hard time making their own fillet/putty. I'm regretting not trying to mix my own.

Posted: **Sun Jan 08, 2017 5:01 pm**

I found the EZ fillet nice for fillets that wont get glassed so they look nice with out much sanding.For fillets that are under glass ya wood flour and cab or milled glass what ever works.
Pros that do this stuff daily all have fillers that mixes with there epoxy that they use for different applications.The EZ fillet makes it easy for the first timer.

Posted: **Mon Jan 09, 2017 6:58 am**

I have used both. I used the ez fillet for all normal filleting . I mix my own for certain areas like when you are going
to sharpen the transom and chine edge. For that i use a harder mix than wood flour " silica and milled glass" .
If i am making a fillet that won't be covered with glass and will be seen or be decorative i use silica mixed with wood flour
which makes a real smooth fillet and once it has time to set up brush some neat epoxy over it makes it even smoother .

Posted: **Mon Jan 09, 2017 9:08 am**

Thanks Tungsten and Topwater,
I am going to mix my own just to see how it works. I got a little lazy in some of my butt blocks by not beveling the sides.
I've read and watched some youtube videos on how fiberglass doesnot like sharp angles. My plan is to add wood flour fillets to those areas to facilitate laying the glass.

Posted: **Mon Jan 09, 2017 9:11 am**

Freaknreakn, Hope the cold weather has not slowed your build too bad!! Send us some photos of your fillets once finished!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Jan 09, 2017 6:36 pm**

yes. some pictures.

Posted: **Fri Jan 13, 2017 7:34 pm**

Building a boat can be a family affair! Mrs Freakn putting transom knees and Freakn Jr. drilling tab holes every 10". Hope to have tabs and fillets done this weekend

Posted: **Fri Jan 13, 2017 7:37 pm**

Nice to see a family pulling together to get this XF20 built!!! Hope you guys have a nice weekend!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Jan 15, 2017 7:17 pm**

Ok,i had to stitch 3 times to get it to this. 3rd time i used 1/2" pvc inside hull with wooden/metal spacers. Around frame C it bulges outward 2-3mm more. It should be ok with fillet and glass?

The port bow transom is 1/4" short of being flush with port side gunwale. Will re drilling stitch holes fix this? I will take pics of the underside to follow and close up of frame C area.

Posted: **Sun Jan 15, 2017 7:20 pm**

Here's are the pics of the gap at frame C, underside, and side.

Posted: **Sun Jan 15, 2017 9:44 pm**

I put some packing tape on the corners of frame C to keep it from sticking when I did the epoxy and sawdust fillets.

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 10:45 am**

That gap is perfectly fine. As I say in the notes: fairness first and gaps are good.

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 9:20 pm**

MrPaul wrote: ↑Sun Jan 15, 2017 9:44 pm I put some packing tape on the corners of frame C to keep it from sticking when I did the epoxy and sawdust fillets.

MrPaul, I had already placed frame C. Taping it off makes great sense as I had to "dance around" that area.

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 9:25 pm**

Here are a few more pics. Next up, connecting all the gaps and patching holes

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 9:28 pm**

Looks good!!! Hope the family is still helping you with the build!!!! Jeff

Posted: **Sat Jan 21, 2017 2:49 pm**

She's looking good. You'll be passing me up in no time if you keep this pace.

Posted: **Sun Jan 22, 2017 3:26 pm**

Connected the gaps

Posted: **Sun Jan 22, 2017 3:29 pm**

Took advantage of very windy day to sand outside

Posted: **Sun Jan 22, 2017 3:31 pm**

Very nice clean work, she is really looking good!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Jan 22, 2017 3:36 pm**

Rounded out edges. Next up; work on tunnel and learn how to lay glass. Been wondering if I could bribe anyone experienced to come over and help with the glass. Maybe Ken Owens

Posted: **Sun Jan 22, 2017 11:12 pm**

Looking good! Should be easy to tape those nice round edges. When you're tapeing you get a feel for the glassing process.

If you look on page 4 or 5 of the Texas xf 20 thread you can see I built kind of a scaffold on wheels and rolled 7 yards of 1708 onto the bar hanging under it. I used that to make glassing the boat a 1 man job. Unroll a couple of yards, use a foam roller to roll resin on the area of the hull you are planning to glass and roll resin onto the back of the glass. Put the wet cloth over the area of the hull you just wet out and roll over it with a lot of pressure until you see that your cloth is wet. Have several rollers and 4 or 5 foam roller covers ready. They turn solid after a while and sometimes you can't get the foam off the roller. I'm a rookie and this is my first boat but that was the best way I could figure out to get that thick 1708 wet all the way through and on the boat with no bubbles.

If you've got any glassing questions there's a lot of people on here that will be able to help you out. Oh yeah...and keep the beer drinking to a minimum when you're doing glass work.

Posted: **Mon Jan 23, 2017 9:30 am**

Thanks for the vote of confidence Mr. Paul. Several questions here: 1) When you were laying down the 1708 on the hull, did you leave it overnight on the hull to conform to the shape better? 2)Spoke to Ken and he suggested using slow hardener, as a novice, I'm thinking about it, or should I just go for it and if it starts setting up to quickly, rip it off

Anybody do this approach?
BTW, you were up late last night

Posted: **Mon Jan 23, 2017 9:31 am**

Looking good!

Posted: **Mon Jan 23, 2017 10:31 am**

I didn't leave it on the boat, I rolled it up on a scaffold over the boat so I could unroll it as I wet it out. 1708, from my experience, needs to be wet on both sides. Its too thick to just wet from the top. If you lay it out to conform you're going to have to lift it up again to wet the underside.

The slow hardener I would say is a great idea. It was hot out when I did my fiber glass and I got 10 minutes of work time even with the slow hardener.

Work late sleep fast and up early. Best way to get more done.

Posted: **Wed Jan 25, 2017 8:07 am**

Oh, how I remember those days. Looks great. Seeing it all come together like that sure gives you the boost of confidence you'll need when it comes time for the fairing and sanding

Posted: **Wed Jan 25, 2017 9:58 am**

Yes to cut the glass the day before and lay it out.

For 1708, I would wet the hull with a good amount of resin, lay it down (roll-unroll) then add resin.
To wet it before laying it down works very well too but requires experience.

Slow hardener, absolutely.

Posted: **Sun Jan 29, 2017 6:17 pm**

So,,,,,Mrs Freaknreakn was an artist and seems to have more patience with tape and epoxy

Question, I triple taped transom corner and port/starboard of transom and gunwale. Do I double tape other seams when I'm planning on at least 2 coats of 1708 and several coats of graphite?
Excuse me, do I have Mrs Freaknreakn double tape the seams?

Posted: **Sun Jan 29, 2017 6:26 pm**

kinda screwed up! And I promise there was no alcohol involved, which by default makes me feel dumber. The starboard side of hull was cut too wide, past the stringer. The gap increases from aft to stern with max of 1 1/8". The stern of the hull has 1 3/8" gap. Before I tab the tunnel in should I rip and glue some okoume back in? The bottom hull is 3/8 okoume.
The whole tunnel process has really ticked me off, otherwise it's been great.

Posted: **Sun Jan 29, 2017 10:47 pm**

Are you talking about a gap between the bottom and the tunnel? It's hard to see in your pics. Whatever the issue is Jacques will probably have a good fix for it.

Posted: **Mon Jan 30, 2017 9:31 am**

Cut a piece to fit and glass it in both sides, should be good to go.

Posted: **Mon Jan 30, 2017 10:55 am**

Nothing that fiberglass can not fix.

Build a nice putty fillet and double the number of glass tape specified there and you will be fine.

Posted: **Mon Jan 30, 2017 11:47 am**

Here are some additional pics.
Thanks Jacques.

Posted: **Mon Jan 30, 2017 2:31 pm**

Thanks Topwater.
I will play with it tonight!

Posted: **Mon Jan 30, 2017 2:42 pm**

That is wider than what I thought.
Put a plywood filler in there then double the glass tape.

Posted: **Sun Feb 05, 2017 4:29 pm**

Happy Super bowl Sunday to all! Hope it's a high scoring game that comes to the last play

Her are a few pics of the tunnel repaired with plywood and double taped. I've sanded all rough edges of tape and the tape itself to help with the new bonding of the cloth. Speaking of cloth, I will post a few questions regarding glossing the bottom.

Posted: **Sun Feb 05, 2017 4:42 pm**

I've cut the cloth to fit approx 1" past bow and stern. Here are my questions:
1) how do you get the cloth to lay neatly inside the tunnel without having folds? Do you cut pie sections out then patch up later?
2) how do you go about overlapping the sections? For instance, do I bring the side pieces in more midline to have a large overlap and have minimal hanging of the sides, or minimal overlap (4"-8") and cut large swatches off the side?
If there are any tutorials or sections of threads that address these questions, please pass it on and I apologize for asking seem dumb. Thanks!

Posted: **Sun Feb 05, 2017 4:48 pm**

I'm rereading my posts and notice all the misspelled words

. There have been a few glasses of wine involved in the writing of this Nobel Laureate piece of literature

Posted: **Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:11 pm**

Nice tunnel work!! Really well done!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:48 am**

See MajorGator's gallery, he has in-depth pictures of the build, and it shows the method used:

Posted: **Mon Feb 06, 2017 10:10 am**

Hope it's a high scoring game that comes to the last play

Guess you got that wish!

For laying glass you often need to cut pleats in the cloth to get it to lay down around tight curves and corners.

Posted: **Mon Feb 06, 2017 3:32 pm**

Thanks Webmaster, I can clearly see what he did on the tunnel and how he overlapped the cloth.
Capeman, that was a great game for the ages. It was worth coming to work tired

Posted: **Tue Feb 14, 2017 8:02 am**

I received the slow hardener to start laying down the 1708. Before doing so, I'm wondering if the chines should be double/triple taped?

Posted: **Tue Feb 14, 2017 10:01 am**

I think the plans call for double.

Posted: **Tue Feb 14, 2017 6:51 pm**

Freaknreakn wrote: ↑Tue Feb 14, 2017 8:02 am I received the slow hardener to start laying down the 1708. Before doing so, I'm wondering if the chines should be double/triple taped?

From the designer:
What do your plans say?
From memory, I"ll say 2 but check your drawings and notes. If you have a doubt, ask here, I will help.

Posted: **Mon May 01, 2017 10:42 am**

Happy May 1st everybody! Man this year is zooming by. Sorry for the distance in posting. I've laid all the glass on the hull and have pics to post this evening. This weekend I started fairing using Quick Fair. I laid the QF on Friday morning and started fairing it yesterday so it had 2 days to set. I noticed the bow the QF was tacky and I can indent w/ my fingernail and even scrape it off. 2/3 of the hull from transom to stern is hard. I don't think it should take this long even in this heat? Deep down I feel I might of mixed a batch wrong and am going to have to take a lot of it off. Any suggestions on the best way to remove QF and suggestions on moving forward?

Posted: **Mon May 01, 2017 1:51 pm**

Yes you will need to take that soft Quick Fair off. It should be hard after 2 days of drying. Try just scraping it off first and then washing it with white vinegar and if white vinegar doesn't work you'll need to use something stiffer like Acetone.

Posted: **Mon May 01, 2017 3:29 pm**

Thanks Tom,
It's off to Home Depot tonight to find good scrapper and a gallon of Acetone.

Posted: **Mon May 01, 2017 3:42 pm**

Depending on how thick it is a good sharp 1/2-3/4 inch chisel will do wonders. I had the same sort of problem on the boat I am working on now. But it was not Quick Fair that I was using. Something strange here as Quick Fair is pretty dang forgiving. I do not take near the level of care that some folks do when I mix it up, one spoon-two spoons looks good, and have not had a bad batch yet

Posted: **Mon May 01, 2017 7:01 pm**

I too had some fail to set but I feel I contaminated the mix with laquer thinner. I clean up between batches with it and must have gotten some on my mixing board. I used a small chisel and 80 grit paper to remove it.

Posted: **Sat May 13, 2017 9:34 pm**

Fuzz and Eric,
It was a week before I got back to the build to remove some QF. As I started it was hard as a rock?!?! So I sanded for a few hours. Really think I goofed on a couple of batches where I was trying to do a double batch. Either way a week later it was hard and sanded fine. I've used up what I have and am waiting on more QF. This fairing has actually been fun and in a way meditating. I've really enjoyed trying to get the bottom and sides super smooth.

Posted: **Sat May 13, 2017 9:51 pm**

Fairing is not fun but it does free my mind. For a while, all I'm having to think about is sanding.

Posted: **Sat May 13, 2017 9:58 pm**

Its fun smoothing out the boat but being covered in the white dust...not so much. Glad its coming to an end on my boat. I'm ready to start building again.

Posted: **Sun Jun 11, 2017 10:42 am**

Alrighty, I should be wrapping the fairing up today. I don't care what the fish think about the bottom at this point. Question for the experts: I've been reading that the graphite you add to the epoxy ranges from 10-20% vol. what has anyone been doing and how many coats? Also, to prime or not to prime before graphite bottom and final paint. What products are you guys using?

Posted: **Sun Jun 11, 2017 10:53 am**

Yes to primer under the finish paint, the System 3 high build yacht primer sold here is excellent. It also is good to get primer on over the fairing that you hope has been completed, you'll get a better look at what to expect. Another tip is to hose the hull down with water and you can get a good shiny surface to see what you're working with in respect to perfectly fair or otherwise. As for the graphite, here's the best advice I know of:
https://forums.bateau2.com/app.php/page ... ation-tips

Posted: **Sun Jun 11, 2017 11:38 am**

Don't waste primer for areas covered with graphite. Won't hurt anything but just adds to wait times (mixed types so full cure needed).

From the thread you were pointed to use 1/3 by volume sifted graphite. Less as you progress through the coats.

From experience:
* best rollers you can find to apply
* hot resin before mixing is better so use slow hardener
* add the epoxy to the resin, not the other way around for easier mixing.

You'll like working with the graphite one you get used to it

Posted: **Sun Jun 11, 2017 1:49 pm**

I agree with Jaysen you don't need to prime the area covered with graphite. For the graphite sift it well and add it the hardener then add the part A to it slowly. You will get a better mix that way. I would go 30% on all layers for maximum protection, no lower than 20%. Apply it using the roll and tip method.

Posted: **Sun Jun 11, 2017 3:55 pm**

Really nice progress on your XF20!! Send us more!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Jun 11, 2017 9:12 pm**

Thanks peewee,Tom,jaysen,Jeff. Great Rules from Cracker! I'm assuming he's referring to a sifter from the kitchen. Man my wife's gonna be pissed.

Posted: **Sun Jun 11, 2017 10:07 pm**

My wife got pissed. Then she made me buy her new, better, and more expensive kitchen stuff. New cooking scale, new sifter, several new large spoons..... You'll find it cheaper to just go buy your own cheapo sifter and kitchen stuff that you're going to ruin anyway.

Posted: **Sun Jun 11, 2017 10:35 pm**

Dollar stores and Walmart are you friend. I use the cheap "pour through strainers" at Walmart. I think it was $1.50 for a set of three. Set one over the measure/holding bowl, pour in a small amount of material, shake gently.

Same technique for silica, wood flour and fairing stuff. Nice thing about getting the set is I have on for each additive.

Posted: **Mon Jun 12, 2017 10:28 am**

Looks like we'll have another upgrade coming up soon!

Posted: **Sat Jun 24, 2017 3:00 pm**

Put first coat of graphite. Read somewhere to retape in increments with each coat to avoid epoxy clumping up at one junction and having to sand. Also allows you to cover over seapage from each coat. I measured in 1/2" increments. If in the final coat there is seapage it will be covered over with primer and paint. We will see?
Any idea how long to wait to apply second coat today? It's 90* here in central FL.

Posted: **Sat Jun 24, 2017 4:05 pm**

That looks pretty good! I waited about 2-3 hours between coats in a similar temperature as you are working in.

Posted: **Sat Jun 24, 2017 6:51 pm**

Thanks Richard! You were right on with the cure time; 2 1/2 hrs and it was ready to go.
Here you can see the new tape line demarcation and tape. Didn't take a second coat shot b/c, well, I'm pretty sure it will look like the first coat

. I'll take a final when all five coats are on.
On a side note, check out my daughter with her first catches on Anything Else.

Posted: **Sat Jun 24, 2017 6:59 pm**

Freaknreakn, nice to hear from you and get some update photos!! Really nice!! Jeff

Posted: **Sat Jun 24, 2017 7:15 pm**

Great Job Freakin!

Posted: **Sun Jun 25, 2017 2:35 am**

Eric1 wrote: ↑Sat Jun 24, 2017 7:15 pm Great Job Freakin!

Don't you mean Great freaken job!

Looks really good. The 1/2" increments seem like a good idea so you have an easier time making the paint and graphite meet seamlessly.

Posted: **Sun Jun 25, 2017 3:46 am**

MrPaul wrote: ↑Sun Jun 25, 2017 2:35 am
Eric1 wrote: ↑Sat Jun 24, 2017 7:15 pm Great Job Freakin!
Don't you mean Great freaken job!

Looks really good. The 1/2" increments seem like a good idea so you have an easier time making the paint and graphite meet seamlessly.

Dang it! That does sound better! Paul you sent coffee through mu nose at 3:45 am!!!

Posted: **Fri Jul 28, 2017 4:20 pm**

Back to work after much needed summer vacation.
Taped and placed two coats of primer. If I read right, I will be putting System Three WR-LPU marine coat on after 2 hrs or 72 hrs? I'll figure it out.
I'll see after the marine coat wether I'll wet sand it or not. I say that b/c when applying the final coat of graphite I did not adhere to Cracker Larry's advice of "leaving the ugliest at the bottom of the cup". Now I have these wonderful tiny nipply projections you can feel with your hands that negate my feelings of accomplishments. $#!T

I'm pretty sure the next boat I'll build will be twice as fast since I'll be much more edumakated

Posted: **Sat Jul 29, 2017 12:28 am**

You are just like the rest of us. The more you do the more you learn

Love your building cradle, maybe because it looks a lot like mine

Posted: **Sat Jul 29, 2017 7:23 am**

Freaknreakn, glad to hear from you and your XF is really looking good?!!! Send us more photos when you have time. Jeff

Posted: **Sat Jul 29, 2017 9:36 am**

Nice...love the Blazer to. I had a 79, lost it in a divorce a long time ago. It was from Oregon and was pristine. It still hurts to think about, the truck not the ex

Posted: **Sat Jul 29, 2017 3:05 pm**

Looking good

!

Posted: **Sat Jul 29, 2017 10:56 pm**

Looking good! I'm with Noles. The first thing I noticed was the blazer. I remember riding in my dads when he was stationed in Alaska when I was little. He had to get rid of it when we moved. Rarely see them anymore.

And, I hear you about getting edumakated. My next build will have a lot less time with me standing on the side of the boat second guessing myself before I do something new!

Posted: **Mon Jul 31, 2017 9:25 pm**

Thanks guys! Here it is with the tape off. Left the rubrail bare thinking it will be better to tape too when doing top deck. Next is to wait a week for the paint to cure 90%, then wet sand the graphite and sides. Build some carpeted carriage arms and lower the boat cradle to start the interior and topside. After the the decks are taped in and since the sides have already been wetsanded, I'll roll another coat. Makes me tired just thinking about it

Don't see this being done for Jensen beach get t/g, but if it is I'll drag it down wth the Blazer since I can't hide it in the photos.

Posted: **Mon Jul 31, 2017 9:59 pm**

I wouldn't waste time or energy wet sanding the graphite. It looks good as is.

Posted: **Mon Sep 04, 2017 5:47 pm**

Happy Labor Day to all!! Ironically, I waorked all day on the boat,,,,,I call it therapy

. Haven't worked on boat in 6 weeks

, mainly because of house addition wife and I are personally doing, oh yeah, forgot, family and work too

Pics of us taping inside corners w/ 3x's 12oz biaxial. More pics to follow......

Posted: **Mon Sep 04, 2017 5:58 pm**

Freaknreakn, really nice progress and looks like you have the whole team working with you!! Hope you and the family are well!! Good luck on the addition to the house!! Too much work!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:44 pm**

Thanks Jeff! Gonna need to place an order,.....may need to speak to someone from BBC to order correct amounts. Anyway.....
Here are more pics of taping corners, followed by laying out and pre cutting "1708",,,,,I'll explain

Posted: **Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:58 pm**

It looks good. Go over the stern transom too, very important.

Posted: **Mon Sep 04, 2017 7:03 pm**

Ok, let me explain "1708". Only after we started laying the first half of the bow did I realize it wasn't 1708, but rather 12oz biaxial. I didn't have anymore 1708, just scraps. I assumed the large roll in the corner garage WAS 1708

. So BBC (yeah, that be you Jaime or Reid,LOL), I'll be needing some 1708 asap! I'm thinking 50 feet?

Posted: **Mon Sep 04, 2017 7:14 pm**

Speaking of scrap 1708.... I bumped into ol' Chillie Willie couple wends back, and over some beers he was suggesting adding more tape to the transom corners. He's been experiencing some cracking there on his xf20. So since I really can't do more on the inside hull til we get some 1708, I took some of those scrap pieces of 1708 and re-inforced the Transom corners.

Posted: **Mon Sep 04, 2017 7:55 pm**

Freaknreakn, call me in the morning and I will get it out tomorrow!! Get me a good measurement of how much 1708 you need and we will cut it!! Again, great family teamwork!!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Sep 04, 2017 10:10 pm**

1708 is massive overkill for the inside glass of an XF20.
I would use the 12 ounce biaxial cloth that you already have on the inside of the hull.
Be sure to follow the lamination schedule for taping the bow and stern transoms and the chines.

Posted: **Tue Sep 05, 2017 5:38 am**

Aripeka Angler wrote: ↑Mon Sep 04, 2017 10:10 pm 1708 is massive overkill for the inside glass of an XF20.
I would use the 12 ounce biaxial cloth that you already have on the inside of the hull.
Be sure to follow the lamination schedule for taping the bow and stern transoms and the chines.

Richard, Overkill is what I think as well,but that really is what the plans called for. Is that how Red Alert was built? 1708 outside and 12oz inside? That sure would make the women of my life happy not to deal with 1708,LOL! And Red Alert still looks awesome after all those years. I'm still combing through the photos on my phone of Red Alert for ideas.
I followed the lamination schedule of fillets, two layers on outside and three layers on inside, as well as beefing Transom corners with extra 1708. I've also got four stringers ready to go in, and plan on taking transom knees to top of transom.
If I finish inside with the 12oz biaxial, I could go over remaining corners with the scrap 1708?

Posted: **Tue Sep 05, 2017 6:45 am**

I know what the plan says, I used 1708 on the inside as well as on the outside.
I found out after I was done that the boat I was trying to copy used 2 layers of plain 12oz on the outside and one layer on the inside. The boat in question is still in service after 15 years.
If I had it to do over, I would have not used the matted cloth on the inside of the hull.
I used 7+ gallons of epoxy on the inside alone. And I also ran out of 1708 at exactly the same spot as you did.
The fiberglass in the BOM is not enough to completely cover the inside. I'm not sure it was ever intended to be completely covered based on the quantity.
With the popular building method of adding extra stringers, sole, framing and foam the hull is plenty stiff IMHO.
Jacques will weigh in I'm sure, if I'm wrong I'll delete this post.

Posted: **Tue Sep 05, 2017 7:13 am**

Richard,
My thoughts exactly. I will be doing all that you mentioned, including the foam under sole.
Changing gears, I'm torn whether to do multiple deck hatches or one large one as on Red Alert. Would you have done any different? I will post pictures of the hatch placements and choices later to get everyone's opinion.
Thanks again Richard!

Posted: **Tue Sep 05, 2017 12:21 pm**

what a great looking build. keep the pictures coming. congrats.

Posted: **Thu Sep 07, 2017 10:38 am**

I must be brief, we are very busy with hurricane preps.
If you don't go overboard with engine size and speed, 12 oz. inside and 1708 are sufficient but If you put a monster engine on there and plan to go 40 mph with a crew of 6, you need 1708 inside.
There is not a large difference in weight and cost between the two: 13 oz. per square yard and maybe 1 gallon resin total. The 1708 is more difficult to wet out. 12 lbs maybe?

This will probably be the last post until the hurricane is gone. I live along the water and must turn the computers off and evacuate.

Posted: **Thu Sep 07, 2017 10:51 am**

Take care Jacques!

Posted: **Thu Sep 07, 2017 11:05 am**

Take care Jacques!

Yes please! We all have a selfish interest in your well-being!

Posted: **Thu Sep 07, 2017 3:23 pm**

Stay safe!

Posted: **Thu Sep 07, 2017 9:57 pm**

It's better to be sorry you left than sorry you didn't!

Newt

Posted: **Fri Sep 08, 2017 7:53 am**

Thanks Jacques for the input.
Everyone stay safe out there and don't forget to lend a helping hand to our neighbors after this monster storm.

Posted: **Fri Sep 08, 2017 8:09 am**

Freaknreakn, I enjoyed meeting your sister in law yesterday, very nice person!! I hope she gets over to your place before any of the storm gets to you!! Be safe and talk to you after the storm!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Sep 19, 2017 11:24 am**

I remember reading Majorgator's thread and him suggesting to think about hatch layout in advance. So it got me thinking and ironically I bumped into Capt Henderson at the boat ramp. He allowed me to take pictures of his last build for a client. For those unfamiliar, he builds the Microdraft 20. I really liked his layout. My concern is he doesn't have a hatch access for his gas tank in the bow. His reason as he told me was that the new tanks are so well built you won't have to worry about them.
What say you all?
As our conversation progressed, he mentioned he had the same hatches with hinges and latches from a previous boat that he would sell me for $1,000. He normally gets them from his supplier for $1,800.
Is this a good deal?
That would save a lot of time for me not having to make them myself. They appear very sturdy and I like how the bow hatches are self bailing.

Posted: **Tue Sep 19, 2017 11:30 am**

Here are the other pics of the hatches.

Posted: **Tue Sep 19, 2017 11:40 am**

More pics.
Also would like you guys to chime in on console choice. I've purchased a leaning post from S and E Customs. I would like to place the leaning post and console on the rear deck leaving sole wide open with cooler seat up against stern bulkhead.
My debate is: build one like Majorgator's so as to add a little storage space and wind deflection (esp in cooler temps), or order one similar to the one on the Microdraft. Please chime in some pros and cons to help me decide.

Posted: **Tue Sep 19, 2017 11:54 am**

Here's a better picture of the console I'm considering in leau of making one.

Posted: **Sun Dec 03, 2017 8:06 pm**

Been awhile since last post of work. Sorry for all the photos. Took a couple months off due to Life reasons but finally able to spend a couple wkends to work on her (therapy

).

Posted: **Sun Dec 03, 2017 8:12 pm**

Took a power planer to flatten edges; before and after.

Posted: **Sun Dec 03, 2017 8:18 pm**

Ran out of 6 oz tape for 2nd layer on stringers, so spent time doing mock up of where to place hatches, bulkheads, leaning post, console, cooler seat.

Posted: **Sun Dec 03, 2017 8:30 pm**

Playing around, I moved bulkhead D forward 23 inches thinking it will improve the "balance". Planning to make console flush with edge of D bulkhead. If anyone has schematics/ideas on console,LMK. How much room b/t console and leaning post? I'm 5'10". How high should the console be?

Posted: **Sun Dec 03, 2017 8:43 pm**

Able to tab and partial tape bulkheads A and B. Photo with small level in it shows length of 47" from bulkhead C. Ordering Moeller 25gal tank (47Lx18Wx10.5H). Waiting on brown santa (ups

) for 6oz tape and ez fillet.

Posted: **Mon Dec 04, 2017 4:45 am**

Looking good. I'm currently about to glass the stringers in on my build today and then the rubrail. then I'm ready to mess with the layout. You said your using 6oz tape to glass in the stringers? I purchased the 12oz, planning on 3 layers on each side of stringer... What was your layout like on the stringers...

Posted: **Mon Dec 04, 2017 7:56 am**

Freaknreakn, your XF is looking great!! Received your order on Saturday morning and we will ship the complete order this afternoon!! Again, really nice work on your XF!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Dec 04, 2017 9:55 am**

Guys,
I'm sorry the photos are not right side up. ON the preview it was correct

Thanks Jeff!

Posted: **Mon Dec 04, 2017 11:41 pm**

Freaknreakn wrote: ↑Mon Dec 04, 2017 9:55 am Guys,
I'm sorry the photos are not right side up. ON the preview it was correct
Thanks Jeff!

The first photos are correct, the following ones are side ways. Some nerd could probably explain this to us.

Newt

Posted: **Tue Dec 05, 2017 6:10 am**

Newt wrote: ↑Mon Dec 04, 2017 11:41 pm
Freaknreakn wrote: ↑Mon Dec 04, 2017 9:55 am Guys,
I'm sorry the photos are not right side up. ON the preview it was correct
Thanks Jeff!
The first photos are correct, the following ones are side ways. Some nerd could probably explain this to us.

Newt

Xif data in photo contains rotation data that OP d vices all agree on allowing the second set of photos to appear properly on OP devices. The other photos have forum generated xif that ensure we all see them the same way. That or the device data is correct for all devices compared to second set.

The the photos are in a forum gallery just go rotate them in the gallery. If uploaded as attachments... shrug and move on.

Nerds do have some value

Posted: **Tue Dec 05, 2017 11:05 am**

Jaysen,
That is funny. Now in FREAKING ENGLISH!!!

I will work on it if it happens again.

Catfish,
Thanks. I was wondering why not just put 12oz on once, but the plans call for two layers of 6oz. I do like how 6oz wets out easier.

Posted: **Tue Dec 05, 2017 12:29 pm**

I thought i read on the plans: "5. Tab chines with 2 layers and stringers with 3 layers..." and to the bottom right of that it says 12oz 6" biaxle tape...

Either way mine got 3 layers of 12oz lol

The plans seem a bit confusing.

Posted: **Tue Dec 05, 2017 1:04 pm**

Freaknreakn wrote: ↑Tue Dec 05, 2017 11:05 am Jaysen,
That is funny. Now in FREAKING ENGLISH!!!
I will work on it if it happens again.

Try this. Basically your camera device embeds things in the image for other device to use for things like "display with this side up". Some devices use "rotate 90" to mean left and other mean right. Some just look at the data and go "fork off, I'm doing it my way". The easiest way to resolve this for BBC is to use the BBC forums (click the gallery link upper right) and use that for your images. In the gallery you can rotate in a way that will make sure we all see your stuff "right way up".

OR you can use some local tools to strip/reformat xif or even change it to what ever you want. I prefer perl with imagemagic but I'm old school nerd. in your case you need to reference 0x0112 (Orientation) and set it to the right value based on the raw data. Using gallery and clicking "rotate 90" is probably easier.

Posted: **Thu Dec 07, 2017 5:17 am**

Nice looking work! All of your photos are oriented the correct way when viewed on my new IPad pro.

I have to ask you, where did you get the hatches that are in your photos? There is a builder from Jacksonville who has been looking for the exact same hatch for his FS18 build.

Posted: **Thu Dec 07, 2017 10:34 am**

Aripeka Angler wrote: ↑Thu Dec 07, 2017 5:17 am
I have to ask you, where did you get the hatches that are in your photos? There is a builder from Jacksonville who has been looking for the exact same hatch for his FS18 build.

They look a little like Joel's hatches

Posted: **Thu Dec 07, 2017 10:34 am**

Great looking boat btw

Posted: **Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:37 pm**

Thank you Richard and Peter.
Richard, I bumped into Capt Henderson at Pirates Cove boat launch one morning and was admiring his latest build. Commented on his hatches of which he said he had a used set he would sell.
Question?
I'm going to tab the transom knees and read the instructions to my interpretation that the knees should be epoxied to the outside of the stringers. I've already got 1 layer of 6oz tape on the stringers. Do I need to strip a section of tape off the stringers to epoxy/fillet the knees directly wood on wood, or will the EZ fillets work?

Posted: **Thu Dec 07, 2017 9:03 pm**

Freaknreakn wrote: ↑Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:37 pm Question?
I'm going to tab the transom knees and read the instructions to my interpretation that the knees should be epoxied to the outside of the stringers. I've already got 1 layer of 6oz tape on the stringers. Do I need to strip a section of tape off the stringers to epoxy/fillet the knees directly wood on wood, or will the EZ fillets work?

Leave the glass tape on the stringers and glue the knees directly to the layed up glass. Fillet and tape the knees to the transom, the hull bottom and the stringers. I personally don't use EZ fillet. I mix my own structural glue from wood flour and epoxy. Be sure to sand the tape before you glue the knees to the stringers.

Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2017 6:30 pm**

Richard,
For some reason your comment on wood flour spurred me on. Went through 2Lbs wood flour this wkend

. I'll be calling you Jeff

Now I love working with it.
Stringers done, placed bulkheads and transom knees. After I placed them, I thought,"why didn't I measure and shape them to be supportive of the deck? ". I'm a slow learner. I'll splice the tops to do so.
I was originally going to take the the 2 knees to the top of the transom after talking to a few who hadn't bulked up the transom/knees from the original plans and added larger Horsepower, and having issues. But I don't want to bump into a knee moving around back there so I opted to add 4 knees. We will see how it works.
Moved bulkhead D forward 30 inches for leaning post, console and cooler seat.

Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2017 6:36 pm**

I'm assuming next will be:????
-arranging chase tubes
-pouring foam under sole and part of back deck
-framing and hatch layout (2 live wells to build)

Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2017 6:46 pm**

Framing, tubes and then foam.

Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2017 7:23 pm**

Thanks Jaysen!
Freakn photos actually came out right

Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2017 7:25 pm**

Freaknreakn, wow, you are really progressing well!! I love the XF20’s, beautiful Boats!!! Just let me know what you need!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2017 7:35 pm**

Looking good! The transom knees look solid. Glad you like the wood flour and epoxy.

The easy fillet and gel magic are a waste of money when you are building a small aircraft carrier...

Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2017 7:46 pm**

I have looked at your pics and I remember you stopped by my shop to look at my xf.
I'm a little confused when I see your bulkhead locations as to your deck plan.

Posted: **Sun Dec 10, 2017 9:48 pm**

Looking good, you got a ton done this week... My build is in a non heated carport so with this colder FL weather I'm on a holdup for now.

Posted: **Mon Dec 11, 2017 6:39 am**

Catfish,
The lower temps definitely slows it down. On the bright side you can work slower without worry of things setting up to quickly and enjoy sipping a rum n coke

Richard,
I ordered an aluminum tower console to go with the leaning post. The positioning will be somewhat similar to Foster's XF20.
I've also ordered a power pole ( might go with two), will be putting 2 live/bait wells on port/starboard of tower console. So my thoughts are moving the bulkhead more stern will give it more balance and fish ability.
For framing, I believe I'm using 1x1 and 1x3's. Is this regular pine from Lowes or Home Depot?

Posted: **Mon Dec 11, 2017 6:45 am**

Richard, forgot to mention:
-bow will have anchor storage, I have thought about placing the trolling motor in there, might have to beef it up.
-2nd bulkhead will be for storage
-3rd will have fuel tank in middle with the two used deck lids I bought

Posted: **Tue Dec 12, 2017 6:49 am**

Please lend me your thoughts. I need to gather lumber for the framing. I have 1 1/2 sheets of 1/2" meranti. I was thinking of ripping 2" or 3" lengths and using as my farming material since it's on hand.

Posted: **Tue Dec 12, 2017 7:00 am**

Freaknreakn wrote: ↑Tue Dec 12, 2017 6:49 am Please lend me your thoughts. I need to gather lumber for the framing. I have 1 1/2 sheets of 1/2" meranti. I was thinking of ripping 2" or 3" lengths and using as my farming material since it's on hand.

I would save the plywood, you will need it later. If it was 3/4" ply, I'd say go for it.
You need some quality non pressure treated lumber for cleats and framing.
I would go to a real lumberyard and get some 3/4" thick cypress or Arkansas pine lumber for your cleats.
I really don't buy much of anything from HD or Lowes, at least lumber wise.

Posted: **Tue Dec 12, 2017 7:36 pm**

I've used mostly reclaimed lumber for my builds, but my business is in remodeling homes, and a lot of these homes are 30-60 years old, and it's amazing the quality of some of the wood that I have no choice but to rip out and toss in a dumpster. The house I'm working on now, built in 1963 had all Cypress 1x6 fascia that needed replacing due to some bad spots, but I was able to salvage some for future projects. One of my favorite sources though are old solid Fir doors, and that's what a lot of my framing is made from. Extremely light weight, tight grained old growth wood you don't see for sale any more. Out of the same house some of the 2x4 studs were actually Cedar, the first time I've ever seen that, so of course those came home with me, as well as some beautiful 2x4's of really tight grained old growth spruce, not like the plantation grown crap you get in the big box stores. If you don't have access to any reclaimed lumber, I've used Cedar, and you can pick out some decent stuff at Lowes or H Depot, which is kiln dried, light weight, and works great with epoxy. I've also used their Poplar, and it works great as well, but it's heavier. So, if you see someone throwing out some old paint caked wood doors, snag them quick and rip them down, and you might find some beautiful boat building wood under all those years of paint. Mike

Posted: **Tue Dec 12, 2017 8:41 pm**

Mike, I used reclaimed fir from an old house for my hatch framing. I pulled it out of my seaside house when I replaced the front doors. It was a 2x jamb, based on the growth rings the tree must have sprouted before the Civil War.

Posted: **Wed Dec 13, 2017 7:55 am**

I've got a call into J and S Cypress out of Sorrento. The best I can do locally is 96 linear feet of 1x4x16 "select" pine from Lumber 84. I have noticed some abandoned homes I can raid, but their in some shady neighborhoods

Posted: **Wed Dec 13, 2017 11:11 am**

Found cypress. About $100 for 96 linear feet. So cypress for framing is the way to go???

Posted: **Wed Dec 13, 2017 12:07 pm**

Cypress will work well. I have about 175 lf of 1x3 for $75 if you want it. Pickup only.

Posted: **Wed Dec 13, 2017 12:45 pm**

Aripeka Angler wrote: ↑Wed Dec 13, 2017 12:07 pm Cypress will work well. I have about 175 lf of 1x3 for $75 if you want it. Pickup only.

Richard,
Sounds like a deal! I'm heading to Oz this wkend to fish with my youngest. I can swing by some afternoon depending on the tide schedule

But you LMK what works for you. PM me or txt/call 352-636-5249
Eddie

Posted: **Wed Dec 13, 2017 8:59 pm**

I picked up your cypress today, it looks very good. I'll straight line it for you in my panel saw.
I'll also add a few pieces of mahogany in case you want to experiment with some tropical hardwood.

Posted: **Thu Dec 14, 2017 12:18 am**

Richard,

You are a good man! This forum is full of good people like you. It makes me feel good to be part of it.

Best regards,
Jordy

Posted: **Thu Dec 14, 2017 6:52 am**

Richard,
Thanks for the phone call! I'll give you a buzz on my way to work this am. It's possible I may be able to arrive in Hudson by 3-4 today.
I need 5 hatches for the stern deck. I'm interested in making my own that are water resistant/proof, that have channels or spillways. Has anyone made their own and can point me to a tutorial/guide.
I'm not interested in making molds, at least I don't think so, and the high quality ones are $$$$$.

[/quote]

Browndog wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2017 12:18 am Richard,

You are a good man! This forum is full of good people like you. It makes me feel good to be part of it.

Best regards,
Jordy

Jordy,
For sure!!

Posted: **Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:41 am**

Freaknreakn,

Here is the tutorial on Hatch Making from Seaslug. He has it down to a science.
https://forums.bateau2.com/app.php/page ... 30fc42d724

Reid

Posted: **Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:22 pm**

Eddie, very nice to meet you today as well as your son. He was very polite and he was interested in boats and boat building.
The old growth cypress and mahogany will work well for you. I'm looking forward to seeing what you will create with the material...

Posted: **Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:37 pm**

Reid wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:41 am Freaknreakn,

Here is the tutorial on Hatch Making from Seaslug. He has it down to a science.
https://forums.bateau2.com/app.php/page ... 30fc42d724

Reid

Reid,
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!! I had the privilege of meeting Richard at his shop today. Got to peek at his FS18 and how he's making his hatches as well (it's going to be a beaut...). B/t the two methods, I'm set. Freakn love this forum and all the help/comraderie.

Aripeka Angler wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:22 pm Eddie, very nice to meet you today as well as your son. He was very polite and he was interested in boats and boat building.
The old growth cypress and mahogany will work well for you. I'm looking forward to seeing what you will create with the material...

Richard,
It was a pleasure to finally meet you. You are quite generous with the beautiful wood and advice! I will post a picture of it when there's good daylight.

Posted: **Sat Dec 23, 2017 6:11 pm**

Fella's,
Here is the cypress and mahogany Richard passed on for framing. Honestly I'm feeling guilty and torn. To me, this is too nice for framing, however I will use it as instructed

Posted: **Sat Dec 23, 2017 6:18 pm**

Not a whole lot going on with the build with the holidays and such. I did pick up the trailer, fuel tank and console this week.
For the forum and internet police out there, the name and reference on the trailer will be changed

Posted: **Sat Dec 23, 2017 6:28 pm**

Did manage to escape parental duties for an hour today to start with bow eye. I bonded about 1' 1/2" together, 28" Lx9"W to be applied inside front bow with section of starboard bonded to front bow. When I bond the starboard, will roughing the paint
(System Three polyurethane top coat) with 60-80 grit be enough for epoxy or do I need to sand to fiberglass?

Posted: **Sat Dec 23, 2017 6:33 pm**

Other views of tank and console. The tank straps are on back order. I will build some sort of frame equidistant from bulkheads that will lock tank in with some sort of eurathane cushioning, I think. Thoughts welcome, always!

Posted: **Sat Dec 23, 2017 6:57 pm**

Freaknreakn, Boat looking great!! Nice trailer as well!! Happy holidays to you and your family!! Jeff

Posted: **Sat Dec 23, 2017 7:19 pm**

I bought the tank straps and my Moeller 64gal tanks came with some other plastic holddowns that are nicer than the straps. I think the straps are steel as well and the holddowns are plastic. But you really ought to have some stringer like extensions that go up to the sole next to the tank anyhow. I need to send the straps back; kind of forgot, might be too late.

Want to buy mine?

I'll add a picture of the ones I have once I locate them and will look right now.

I'll go take a look. Can't send them until Tuesday, of course. ... Dan

Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

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