FS18 Straight Sheer, Round Chine

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Reid
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Re: FS18 Straight Sheer, Round Chine

Post by Reid »

TomW1 wrote: Thu Feb 25, 2021 9:05 pm Reid, I like the way that tanks mounts. Could you explain a little more about how you mounted it. It looks like you bolted it from the deck below, or from some type of added structure you added for it to set on. Very neat and clean. :D

Tom
Tom,

I cut a floor (not part of the plans) out of some scrap 9mm to fit on top of the stringers in between frames A and B. I had the tank built before I glued the floor in place. I marked where I wanted my tank mounted, drilled the four holes for the 1/4" SS Hex Head bolts. I flipped the floor over, inserted the bolts through the holes, and cut some small pieces of plywood to make a 4 sided box around the Hex Head. Once the "box" was glued in place and the bolts were installed, I mixed up some epoxy with Silica and Milled Fiber and filled the box with and the small void spaces around the Hex Heads. Basically the box was glued in such as way to prevent the Hex Head bolts from spinning and the epoxy mixture was to hold the bolts from falling out.
-Reid
Here are a few previous pics to demonstrate:
FS18 fuel bolts 1.jpg
FS18 fuel bolts 2.jpg
FS18 fuel bolts 3.jpg
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright

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VT_Jeff
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Re: FS18 Straight Sheer, Round Chine

Post by VT_Jeff »

Reid,

Can I ask how this joint was made? Is it just end-grain glued to a face or is it mortised into the face? I spent probably WAY too much time screwing around with this type of thing, am wondering exactly how far overboard I went.

Learning a lot form this build, appreciate the doc effort!

Jeff
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There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.

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Dan_Smullen
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Re: FS18 Straight Sheer, Round Chine

Post by Dan_Smullen »

VT_Jeff wrote: Fri Feb 26, 2021 12:22 pm Reid,

Can I ask how this joint was made? Is it just end-grain glued to a face or is it mortised into the face? I spent probably WAY too much time screwing around with this type of thing, am wondering exactly how far overboard I went.

Learning a lot form this build, appreciate the doc effort!

Jeff
Following...

Reid, the finish in the bilge looks amazing. I’m also inspired by the hatch framing.

Will good fillets support the end of a part like in the pic VT Jeff quoted?

fallguy1000
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Re: FS18 Straight Sheer, Round Chine

Post by fallguy1000 »

Dan_Smullen wrote: Sun Feb 28, 2021 8:44 pm
VT_Jeff wrote: Fri Feb 26, 2021 12:22 pm Reid,

Can I ask how this joint was made? Is it just end-grain glued to a face or is it mortised into the face? I spent probably WAY too much time screwing around with this type of thing, am wondering exactly how far overboard I went.

Learning a lot form this build, appreciate the doc effort!

Jeff
Following...

Reid, the finish in the bilge looks amazing. I’m also inspired by the hatch framing.

Will good fillets support the end of a part like in the pic VT Jeff quoted?
My name is not Reid, but I call and ask his advice all the time.

I would at a minimum support the epoxy glue bond with glass, preferred underneath, but it not possible on the sides. It only needs to be 2" wide tabbing of say db1200 or more. My boat is getting heavy, though, so it is a bit depressing always adding glass weight n resin.

My designer told me to always support epoxy bonds with tabbing. I have decided on soles-a must. On hatch lids; no.

From a pure mechanics perspective; the epoxy bond is probably good, but the forces on the joint are or could be great if say a person is there when the boat comes down off a wave or some such.

I'd be curious what Reid's reply is as well. Did not intend to speak for him. Just give you my 2 cents.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

Reid
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Re: FS18 Straight Sheer, Round Chine

Post by Reid »

VT_Jeff wrote: Fri Feb 26, 2021 12:22 pm Reid,

Can I ask how this joint was made? Is it just end-grain glued to a face or is it mortised into the face? I spent probably WAY too much time screwing around with this type of thing, am wondering exactly how far overboard I went.

Learning a lot form this build, appreciate the doc effort!

Jeff
I simply left a small gap, no mortised joint or anything, and glued it up with GelMagic. I made sure that both surfaces were scuffed up pretty good and clean of any dust or contaminates in order to get a good bond. I placed the deck on top of this piece after it was cured and stood on top of it to test it and it worked great! In the end it will be even stronger and stiffer once I use GelMagic to glue the deck down on top of that piece. The deck will also sit on top of the hull panels which will give even more support.
I will keep documenting as I go.

Yes a nice fillet will go a long way in supporting a joint like this. Dan is correct however, fiberglass tabbing wouldn't hurt either.

-Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright

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VT_Jeff
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Re: FS18 Straight Sheer, Round Chine

Post by VT_Jeff »

Reid wrote: Fri Mar 05, 2021 10:50 am
VT_Jeff wrote: Fri Feb 26, 2021 12:22 pm Reid,

Can I ask how this joint was made? Is it just end-grain glued to a face or is it mortised into the face? I spent probably WAY too much time screwing around with this type of thing, am wondering exactly how far overboard I went.

Learning a lot form this build, appreciate the doc effort!

Jeff
I simply left a small gap, no mortised joint or anything, and glued it up with GelMagic. I made sure that both surfaces were scuffed up pretty good and clean of any dust or contaminates in order to get a good bond. I placed the deck on top of this piece after it was cured and stood on top of it to test it and it worked great! In the end it will be even stronger and stiffer once I use GelMagic to glue the deck down on top of that piece. The deck will also sit on top of the hull panels which will give even more support.
I will keep documenting as I go.

Dan, yes a nice fillet will go a long way in supporting a joint like this.

-Reid
Appreciate that. I cut slots in my bulkheads to support the deck frames. In retrospect this was clearly not needed and actually caused me some hassle trying to keep the tops of the bulkheads straight. Live and learn!
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.

Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie

Dan_Smullen
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Re: FS18 Straight Sheer, Round Chine

Post by Dan_Smullen »

That’s amazing strength with nothing more than glue on end grain. Better living through science!

Reid
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Re: FS18 Straight Sheer, Round Chine

Post by Reid »

Quick update: I took the step I know so many out there cringe when they think about doing it, installing the thru hull in the transom.
The Thru Hull is an Attwood SS, to fit a 1" ID hose.
I started by marking my spot, and cutting a hole using a 2" hole saw. I had some Pettit EZ Tex Repair Compound that the Pettit Rep dropped off a while back. This seemed like a good application to for this stuff since it is non-sagging, sandable, and you can actually drill and tap it once cured. It is a two part 1:1 ratio mix. I used the Pettit EZ Tex to fill the hole and make a plug.
Next I came back with a 1-5/16" drill bit and drilled the hole for the SS Thru Hull right through the Pettit plug.
The Attwood Thru Hull will be installed permanently after the hull is painted. I will use some 3M 5200 to seal around the Thru Hull.
Here are a few pics to illustrate what I did.
Have a good weekend!
-Reid
FS18 Thru Hull 1.jpg
FS18 Thru Hull 2.jpg
FS18 Thru Hull 3.jpg
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright

fallguy1000
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Re: FS18 Straight Sheer, Round Chine

Post by fallguy1000 »

Any time to work on the boat Reid?
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

Reid
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Re: FS18 Straight Sheer, Round Chine

Post by Reid »

Been a while since I posted. I have been able to get the decks and gunwale caps glued down. I used System Three GelMagic and applied it with the piping bag technique. I continue to find that the Piping Bag technique is an extremely efficient way to apply epoxy glues precisely and with very little waste.
Next, I will fiberglass tape all the seams where the decks and gunwale caps meet the hull sides and transom. I will also tape the seams where the aft and bow decks meet the gunwale caps.

Talk to you soon!
-Reid
PS: In case anyone asks, the wires sticking out from the bow are the wires for the running lights. The lights will be installed once the hull is painted.
FS18_deck_1.jpg
FS18_deck_2.jpg
FS18_deck_3.jpg
FS18_deck_4.jpg
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright

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