Woods Skoota 32DM

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fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 »

TomW1 wrote: Thu Oct 06, 2022 6:04 pm Dan, I am still not keen on changing your bow shape after thinking about it a couple of days. While you say it is only at the dock it will also be there when you get out caught out in heavy seas and have to slow down and waves are pounding down on the bow. Instead, do a weight test fill a bunch of 5Gal buckets on the stern with water, with each Gal weighing 8.33lbs until you level the boat. This will be much cheaper than building the bulbous bows. You can use lead or other weights in rear compartments to equal the amount of weight of the water you needed to balance the fore/aft weight. It may not be as much as you think. Tom
Wrong.

Wish you were not Tom. This is a large vessel. 350 pounds of sand, removed solar panels 106 pounds, ran water down from 53 to like 15 gallons and the bow was still down 3.5" below dwl.

It is not trim and moments. Well, it is, but shaving pounds here and there and here and there would take all winter and no solar...not ever

The problem is this vessel needed something called a datum. That is, a section by section weight requirement provided by the designer. In Richard's defense, he is a minimalist. He simply builds very light, not even close to all the typical US type of ideas. The water tanks are mislocated. He asked me where I planned them; they are wrong. I increased the window rake; they are further forward for looks. I used tempered glass, not polycarbonate.

So, I apologize for saying wrong, but we are really required to get the bows up and not by keeping a bow anchor on the stern.

All the best Tom. I realize your heart is in the right place.
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Jaysen
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by Jaysen »

I’m sure Richard is providing input to the solution. I wonder if there is a way to offset the bulb to the inside vs a symmetrical placement. That would reduce the likelihood of side impact.

Is the plan to simply add onto the hull (leaving the hull intact) or full integration?
My already completed 'Lil Bit'. A Martens Goosen V12 set up to sail me to the fishing holes.
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Jaysen wrote: Mon Apr 29, 2019 3:44 pm I tried to say something but God thought I was wrong and filled my mouth with saltwater. I kept my pie hole shut after that.

fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 »

Jaysen wrote: Thu Oct 06, 2022 9:48 pm I’m sure Richard is providing input to the solution. I wonder if there is a way to offset the bulb to the inside vs a symmetrical placement. That would reduce the likelihood of side impact.

Is the plan to simply add onto the hull (leaving the hull intact) or full integration?
Richard not involved.

Adds a piece to hull, glued on, like these:
FA39FC71-1C10-4EFE-8569-DC36A0878E0F.jpeg
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glossieblack
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by glossieblack »

Back into comms contact, so my 2cents ...... cent 1 - FG understands the problem and the range of possible solutions better than anybody else on this forum. Cent 2 - FG will be in a better position to make the wisest calls after cruising for a few months. And an additional 2 cents - brilliant build!
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).

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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by rick berrey »

Adding the bulb is whats needed to increase over all displacement , balance is another issue . Sorry your having to do this FG , I would also be looking at designing some kind of a connection plate / adapter that could bolt onto your hulls at the connection point of the pod that would allow you to shift the pod bow to stern in order to balance the boat . I don't know if you have trim tabs , but they are nice on a boat that size , they might tweak it once the major problem is solved

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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by narfi »

Sucks you have to do it. But seems like you have a plan and you have the skillset to accomplish it.

Curious, maybe it doesn't matter as you are a planing hull and said the additions would be out of the water at speed, but would the added length make you faster or more effecient at displacement speeds?

fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 »

narfi wrote: Fri Oct 07, 2022 10:46 am Sucks you have to do it. But seems like you have a plan and you have the skillset to accomplish it.

Curious, maybe it doesn't matter as you are a planing hull and said the additions would be out of the water at speed, but would the added length make you faster or more effecient at displacement speeds?
Added length will improve efficiency. The extended waterline will probably have little effect on speed.
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TomW1
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by TomW1 »

Dan sorry you have to do them, but you do what you have to do. I have no more suggestions. Just make sure they are properly designed and provide the lift you need. Good luck!!! Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

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OrangeQuest
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by OrangeQuest »

Have you considered ballast bags? Seems it would be faster and a easier fix than a hull design change that you would need to really beef it up to keep from it breaking lose in rough seas.

https://www.wakemakers.com/pages/wakeboard-ballast
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fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 »

OrangeQuest wrote: Fri Oct 07, 2022 7:01 pm Have you considered ballast bags? Seems it would be faster and a easier fix than a hull design change that you would need to really beef it up to keep from it breaking lose in rough seas.

https://www.wakemakers.com/pages/wakeboard-ballast
It is not enough to even shift the motors back; the axebows got too narrow; the forward weights too high.

Consider a boat bottom shaped like a triangle. Put a mass of x on the tip of the triangle. Then put a mass y on the wide part. No matter how much mass is added to y, the mass of x keeps the area down.

If I took a sawzall and started cutting the boat apart, so the mass of x was less; there would be no boat.

I can remove 22 pounds from the netting beam which is near the bow. I can make the tube and fixtures from carbon; probably take a month.

I can put the anchor and chain and stuff back on the bow and put about 70 pounds back there.

I can remove the diesel tank and probably will; it is about 4' from the bow and 50 pounds.

I can start to change out the entire settee from 3/4" ply to vac bag foam.

I plan to move the water tanks.

I can keep the boat no solar, but that sucks.

I can take apart the kitchen and cut maybe 200 pounds. But when Mrs Fall and I sleep onboard; the boat would get 400 pounds or so back. Shhh, not that much.

All these projects would take a year for less likely than perfectly level boat.

Or, I can spend 6 weeks fabricating bow extensions.

The problem is none of the weights are easily changed at this point...
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